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@markm I sympathize with your nostalgic view. For me, the main difference between film and digital is not color. andy lee is right, colors are being manipulated everywhere. They have been manipulated in the stone ages and in the renaissance, one must be aware of that simple fact. Leonardo would have used Photoshop. His selfmade colors were raw par excellance. What film captures in a different way is light. The grain that holds the smallest picture elements is spread in the emulsion in random patterns that change twentyfour times a second. This gives light a vivid quality. As long as the grain is visible. The finer the resolution (of film and digital) the less important is this difference.

Sorry, I don't want to mislead you, It's not a stabilizer like as in a steadycam. It presses up against your body and give you a more stable grip on the camera. It's meant to give you the most points of contact with your body in order to give you more stability and reduce camera shake when doing hand held work. Really, they call this a DSLR shoulder rig but since it doesn't have a part that goes over your shoulder, some people call it a chest stabilizer. The main reason I suggested the eye piece is that it's would add to increase the points of contact. So you'll have the camera touching your chest, hands, and head. The main function of the Eye piece though is essentially to magnify the back 3" display and make it into a viewfinder. So, it's not really a replacement for an external monitor. It's something that you would use when you were shooting with the camera close to your face like in this situation. In situations where the camera is father away from your face, like on a tripod or low slung while holding the top handle, a monitor is obviously more beneficial and the viewfinder wouldn't really do anything for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DduqM0i9cl8 Finally got this beast up and mounted. I can focus through within about 7-10ft of the range I set on the anamorphic with only the prime, flares a decent amount, and is sharp as a tack. Squeeze ratio actually came out to about 1.8 in post. Pretty pleased with a 3.2:1 ratio.

I'm editing my raw footage and totally up to speed with it now. First blog post not far off

some nice Skyfall behind the scenes footage with the Arri Alexa mainly all Arri Master Primes (made by Zeiss) Deakins uses these focal lengths alot from looking at all the clapper board photos on line....27mm 32mm 35mm 37mm 40mm 50mm 28-76 zoom 100mm outside with ND's 9 and 6 [u][b][i]spolier warning dont watch if you have not seen the film yet! you have been warned![/i][/b][/u] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz-ko51xons[/media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_yQIHIzhAo&feature=relmfu http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLn4_jj5T9M

It wouldn't be hard to find out! Just leave your lens cap on and record a bunch of 5-second clips starting at the ISO 12800, then enhance the noise in post.

I haven't seen a side by side test like this so I decided to create one. The video is uploading on Vimeo but I suspect that the compression will make it difficult to gauge, so here are some screen grabs. Please click to view full screen: [center][img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_14/gallery_18451_14_61391.jpg[/img][/center] [center]*I should also add that each stripe was sampled from the center of the image.[/center] [center][img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_14/gallery_18451_14_298073.jpg[/img][/center] [center][img]http://www.eoshd.com/comments/uploads/gallery/album_14/gallery_18451_14_670092.jpg[/img][/center] My previous tests concluded that ISO 320 was the sweet spot. However, when I did the same test this time, ISO 320 gave me a lot of macro blocking. Bizarre! I don't believe that I changed anything between last time's test and this one. To me, these images suggest that you'd be best off parking it in ISO 640 and leaving it there. It's also interesting that different ISOs seem to have different color casts.

[color=#282828][size=4] Shot out in the Hoh Rainforest. Heavily used the Kenko .3 105mm diopter. Edited in Adobe Premiere. [url="https://vimeo.com/52401060"]https://vimeo.com/52401060[/url][/size][/color] [color=#282828][size=4] Posted in the anamorphic forum and then realized it should have gone here (sorry!)[/size][/color][list] [*][url="http://www.eoshd.com/comments/index.php?app=core&module=global&section=reputation&do=add_rating&app_rate=forums&type=pid&type_id=21071&rating=1&secure_key=a51532603e8789088ec14d15e07a0338&post_return=21071"]Like This[/url] [/list][list] [*][url="http://www.eoshd.com/comments/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=reply_post&f=5&t=1526&qpid=21071"]Quote[/url] [*][url="http://www.eoshd.com/comments/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=reply_post&f=5&t=1526&qpid=21071"]MultiQuote[/url] [*][url="http://www.eoshd.com/comments/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=edit_post&f=5&t=1526&p=21071&st="]Edit[/url] [/list]

I'm pleased with what this camera provide in photography. There's one thing I missing from NEX is peaking focus, everything else work fine, and very good, better than X100 and new mirrorless from canon (m or something, I dont bother to check, it not AF right even under full sunlight lit scene). The 12-35 (24-70) is too sharp, I repeat: too sharp for video for my liking. I either dial down the contrast in picture style or do it in post. I will do a moire test for you guys tomorrow (got quite bad headache today due to go outside under hard heat from the sun with GH3 yesterday), what kind of moire test is most practical and provide useful information?

Okay, no more after this I promis: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?222269-Panasonic-Pancake-Lens-Shoot35-Follow-Focus

Yeah and while we are on the subject of points of contact, this will help keep things stabilized too: [url="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wpV0XQa%2BL._SL500_AA300_.jpg"][img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wpV0XQa%2BL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[/img][/url] [url="http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-CA0602-Viewfinder-Digital-Cameras/dp/B005EM6G7U/ref=pd_cp_p_2"]http://www.amazon.co...U/ref=pd_cp_p_2[/url]

[color=#222222][font='Helvetica Neue', Arial, Verdana, sans-serif][size=4][background=rgb(255, 255, 255)] Another thing I just thought of is that with the 20mm pancake, the focus is by wire with no hard stops and not necessarily repeatable. Because of this there's no way to guaranty that the lever of the lever type focus is going to be on the right side of the lens for your hand. In fact, now that I think about it, you might not be able to use those adjustable belts with a follow focus either. Because at some point the clasp could get turned around the lens and jam up with the focus gear that hooks up with the lens gear. Hmmm. There's no easy way to explain this... I hope you are able to follow my train of thought... At any rate, it will take some careful planning and learning to get it right. So, for the one I indicated above ([url="http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Compact-Follow-Support-Camcorder/dp/B008MU97MC/ref=sr_1_354?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1352332540&sr=1-354"]which is this one[/url]), it looks like the whole gear box can be rotated 180 degrees when you loosen it to move up and down on the vertical mount. This way the gear can be turned so it is closest to the lens instead of the gear box running into the camera body first. I don't know if that makes sense but I think it will work.[/background][/size][/font][/color]

Yeah, that one is cheap but I don't think it's actually going to help you out much. If the issue is that when you touch the lens it causes the camera to bump and shake the footage, then what you need some way to stabilize the camera. If you get this, when you move the focus lever, it will cause the camera to roll (rotate on the Z axis) a little. Maybe even more then when just using you hand on the lens. This lever mechanism is a good invention for tripod use or when you have the camera mounted on a shoulder rig though. The follow focus is a better solution because when you turn the knob, you are only moving your wrist in the cameras X axis which is actually easer to counter with your right hand then the Z axis rotating. Another advantage is that you are turning your wrist so that when you want to focus on something closer, you turn your wrist towards you and away from you when you want to focus on something farther away. It's just more natural then rolling the lens back and forth. BUT, the big issue here is that since you are using a pancake lens, I don't know if you can actually get a follow focus on this. Maybe someone with a pancake can chime in on this? Actually, What I think you need is a shoulder rig more then anything else. Just something that gives some more stability so that when you touch the camera it doesn't move and shake as much. The Camera will be more stable with more points of contact. I have a little secret here: [img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WwELcrebL._SL500_SL130_.jpg[/img] [url="http://www.amazon.com/Camera-Shoulder-Support-Handles-Standard/dp/B008MTRGJY/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_t_1"]http://www.amazon.co...pd_rhf_se_p_t_1[/url] It's ridiculously cheap and pretty good quality to boot. And best of all, it comes with a freaking follow focus! This thing is an amazing value. Just the follow focus alone is a $100. But the question is still whether any follow focus works with a pancake lens.

You say- "I can't have a shot curtailed during a shoot because of an unreliable codec hack." I say- I can't have a shot of a curtain during a shoot because of an unreliable sensor."

QUOTE: I feel that Panasonic need a full frame sensor flagship model because there is a cultural issue with customers who think bigger is always better. No matter how good the GH3, the Lumix brand will always be seen as being lesser than Canon and Nikon without that fabled full frame camera. Even if the margins are very slim and the resources required to develop a whole new lens range significant, a full frame mirrorless camera from Panasonic would have a halo affect on the whole range from top to bottom. I couldn't disagree more. Panny lost nearly $5b this past financial year, $25b accumulated loss over the past 5 years. The enormous investment to develop a FF camera and lenses from scratch would be financial folly. A far, far better uses of scares resources is to put it into making even better GHx cameras and lenses. Panny is in niche of two and can help take it mainstream. To cut back on investment here in order to compete with Canon, Nikon, Sony etc on their FF turf from scratch for the sake of a debatable halo affect would result in us all losing.