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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2013 in all areas

  1. Hello, I recently shot this 1-shot music video on my GH3. It worked out great. especially being light weight. https://vimeo.com/65240570 Lens: 12-35 f2.8 Shot @ 12mm, f4.0, 800 ISO, 1/50th Shutter, 4300k Look: Natural with -4 NR, -4 Sharpness, -3 Contrast, -3 Saturation. 23.98p 50mpbs IPB .MOV Image Stabilization on Note: There was color grading done
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  2. For me, 1080p60 was not a deal breaker but I can see that for some people it is really important. Would I like that feature? Of course I would but I guess it is not really possible to find a camera that does everything well, which forces us to compromise. For me that compromise was not really hard. One thing you might check is how the image quality of GH3 is compared to D7100? Is it something you could live by?   I also agree with the above post. There are so many other things that you might have to buy. For example, right now, I don't even have a solid tripod, ND filter or a rig/rig parts, which I have to buy if I want to shoot something serious. One might need to consider all these costs as well. Thank God, I didn't have to pay cash for my camera as I bought it by instalments.    I'll share buy impressions when I get the camera.
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  3. Consider that if you want to get into doing video, you need more than just a good camera system. You'll need rigging, lights, ND filters, etc. You also need to consider the lenses that go with the system you choose, such as M4/3 versus EF.   If you can swing the GH3, go for it. The 1080p60 is going to give you some fun, sexy slo-mo that no other camera in its price range can give you. Also, don't minimize how useful a swivel screen is when you want to get a slo-mo of a grasshopper on your front lawn and you don't want grass stains from sliding around on the grass. (Also, it has a headset jack -- this can be huge for minimizing the amount of kit you have to drag around.)   Other gear you should consider if you want to toy with video: get a variable ND filter, otherwise it sucks to shoot outside. Get a shoulder rig or decent tripod/head. (I recommend a rig for beginner's -- it forces them to learn framing/composition, Amazon has a great $50 one.) If you don't have a fast lens, get at least one.    If you are absolutely new and want to invest money in stuff that isn't going to be deprecated by next year, focus on some decent kit/gear. Go with a cheap Canon Rebel body like the T2i/3i/4i, get a 50mm/f1.8 lens, variable ND filter -- then find a couple decent LED lights, some stands -- maybe a small audio kit (Zoom/Tascam plus shotgun mic) -- and then a good tripod/handheld rig. 
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  4. I was on the same boat actually and I bought D7100 from the USA. I upgraded from D5100.   Given the price difference compared to the UK as well as picture quality of it, it was a clear choice for me. Otherwise I'd have chosen GH3. Right now, I have Kowa 8Z, 85mm AIS F2 and 35mm F1.8 AF-G. I will buy a manual 50mm and a wide angle lens later. In regards to why I didn't buy D5200? Well, weather sealing, metering with old nikon lenses, more robust body and more control over functions with layout buttons were among the reasons. Except weather sealing, other features you've listed were not really important for me. Why? Because, I could easily carry spare batteries or SD cards. Built-in motor is only useful if you have lenses without focus motor, which I haven't. Again, it all comes down to your personal preferences and budget.    I think feature-wise the only thing that might cause problem is the lack of focus peaking and live histogram. Right now, I don't have a budget for a monitor so I'll try to use my Galaxy S4 as a monitor and see how it performs. If I can get live histogram and focus peaking out of it, then that's frosting on the cake.    I will get the camera this sunday and I am happy to answer your questions as much as I can but bear in mind that I am not a professional. I've just started learning.
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  5. Tony, you are "The Knowledge", you should have a honorary nickname here! Isco should just make it again! They would clean up I think, regardless of startup cost. Loss-lead for a year then continue... Unless I'm missing something...
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  6. very cool. Did you stabilize in post? looks not too shaky for handheld!
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  7. these are really great...smaller than the mighty hypergonar very lovely classic look. price is good if all working well. the magic is in the glass.   you will not ge a better anamorphic look  for your money.   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anamorphic-lens-/261210585630?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraLensesFilters_JN&hash=item3cd15d3a1e
    1 point
  8. The D7100 definitely beats the 7D in image quality. It's 4 year old tech against brand new. Both for photo and video.   The 5D Mark II is interesting if you are looking for that 'full frame' look. Put a 35mm f/1.4 on it and you'll get an image you won't ever get with a aps-c-camera like the D7100. I like the full frame look for photography, not fond of it for video because the extreme shallow dof is hard to manage with moving images and can be distracting.   You could look into the D5200 as well. Image quality on par with the D7100, still very good autofocus, but in a more consumer grade body. It does have a flip screen though and is cheaper.
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  9. For both photography and video? mostly the one or the other or 50/50? Video quality of the GH3 and D7100 is much better than the NEX-7 so if you are serious about video i'd skip the NEX-7.   Best all-rounder with focus on video: I'd say GH3 (1080p60, swivel screen, EVF, mirrorless so you can adapt almost any (cheap) lens)   Best all-rounder 50/50 or focus on (pro) photography: D7100 (best photo quality, great autofocus for photography, very good video quality - better in low light than GH3. Downsides for video: no swivel screen, less lens choices, no 1080p60)
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  10. Panavision Superama http://www.ebay.com/itm/190833251891   Singer (Sankor) 16-C http://www.ebay.com/itm/221222234141   Singer (Sankor) 16-D www.ebay.com/itm/200921339247   Delft Delrama Vistascope 8mm (overpriced) http://www.ebay.com/itm/251270005078   Kowa 8-Z http://www.ebay.com/itm/261210342930   SUN http://www.ebay.com/itm/151039010164   16mm Kinoscope http://www.ebay.com/itm/200921406529   Isco Inflight 16/2x http://www.ebay.com/itm/221222594809
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  11. That second shot is awesome!
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  12. 72? - I mostly see 77mm on L-lenses.   Edit: Ahh, see that the zooms are mostly 77mm and the primes 72 :)
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  13. Poor Andrew, he gets so much shite for being a Canon hater, when deep down he really wanted to love the 5D3 for video. He's going all out, trying to save the 5D line from the evil engineers at Canon.   It's like watching someone perform CPR even though they know the patient is already dead.
    1 point
  14. Sean Cunningham

    Film Convert

      It's quite impressive.  It was their use of the chip charts to match looks that sold me on giving it a look-see and not just dismiss it as yet another bit of LUT snake oil.   I remembered reading about Kubrick being an absolute fanatic about every single shot, every single element, in 2001 being slated with a chip chart for QC at the lab, because processing would vary day-to-day but also because the film itself would color-shift over the course of production and this would need to be compensated for since two pieces of film shot maybe a year apart might need to be layered together.   This kind of color matching is like what's been used in high-end visual effects facilities to match digital elements to known and quantifiable film types.  It's not arbitrary and it's not futile or pointless.  This is the visual equivalent to harmonizing audio or perhaps tuning your guitar to a standard.   edit: here's my first project using FilmConvert   [url="http://vimeo.com/55190441"]http://vimeo.com/55190441[/url]
    1 point
  15. jgharding

    Film Convert

    Thanks for this, I used it on a simple project at the production company I worked for, one adjustment layer in Premiere CS6 and that was the grade done, aside from a few highlight tweaks!
    1 point
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