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I guess what I'm getting at is that for wide angle lens' adapter manufacturing quality does start to matter. With a small sensor wide lens' are very intolerant of back focus errors. The B&H Angenieux 10mm f1.8 is a fantastic lens. They cost a fortune when they were new. The lack of focus wide open in the test shot back in post #88 could well be down to incorrect flange depth. I put more faith in Pierre Angenieux than I do in a $10 C mount adapter! I don't have a C to M43 to test this but I do have a cheapo ebay C to Nikon 1 adapter for my J1. I'll put my Ang 10mm on my J1 and check it against a focus chart and see.

they are all mega dealers all connected. selling shit untested looks pretty but the filthy rotters will not or cannot ever provide proof that it works well. they get mates to bid silly money then cancel transactions they then have benchmarks. 10k or best offer at that price they could pay roger film is dead fucking deakins to test it for half a day and give the james bond camera shooters seal of sharp focus approval. bunch of rotters

Hi All, really useful thread. Just waiting on some C mount adapters to arrive and I will add my lenses results to the list. One thing I don't think has been fully addressed is the quality and accuracy of the adapters. In order to achieve correct flange depth they have to be accurate to at least 1/100th of a millimeter ( possibly even 1/1000th ) I've also noticed on my C to Nikon 1 adapter is off centre. Vignetting is always greater in the top corners rather than the bottom, suggesting the C mount hole is above centre. (Could also be that the sensor is mis aligned, but i'm more inclined to trust Nikon than the adapter) Given that most adapters are really cheap it may be worth us sharing info on the adapters we are using. It won't have much effect on sensor coverage but will have a big effect on ability to focus, barrel distance marks and overall focus issues. I have a couple cheapies on order from Ebay but they may well come from the same workshop in China so may be identical. We'll see... I also have the much more expensive Metabones adapter on it's way which seems to have a very wide base for the lens. Again we'll see... Julian, wouldn't you be better off modifying an adapter rather than your lens? Cheaper to replace an adapter than a lens?

I see your using split dioptres. Normally splits are for keeping foreground and background in focus simultaneously, used the other way round you can achieve some creative effects   Here is an example with a split +3 running from 1 to 7 o'clock with the clear side on the left, it was shot in adobe 1998 so may look a litlle washed out on your screen. Notice the extreme glow ;)  

Thanks for comment Luke. The only shot that was stablished was the opening shot which was shot from a taxi and was all over the place. The rest was just as shot. I just used the old strap round the neck trick. I had also had a few beers, maybe that's the secret!?

Sorry for the delay in replying. Yes it is the same lens. It feels nice an solidly built. A handsome little little fellow dare I say. However I think that most C-Mount to NEX adapters can accept lens diameters up to 44mm. Some stepped C-Mount to MFT adapters can can except diameters that exceed 37mm but at that point the lens is held further away from the sensor and (in some lenses at least) the focus to infinity problem occurs. It's a shame because I was hoping that I could also use this lens with my V1 but that has a similar restriction due to to mount diameter. My initial thoughts are to fabricate a new back plate for the lens from an adapter plate. That would actually increase the available diameter as the support around the recess would then not be needed. All this is theory right now but I will keep you posted. It will be a while though as I'm very busy right now.

Looking forward to seeing your shots, Gábor.    I've tried the Sun with my Helios 44. Images look pretty sharp to me when in focus. What do you think?   Here are some screenshots with the Helio 44M:    

Angenieux 10mm f/1.8 Retrofocus Julian already classified this as a Yes (with dark corners) and has a link to my image of it at f/1.8, but I would like to add a few words. You can find a lot of these lenses on eBay these days, starting around $200. Is it worth consideration at all? This is, as you know, a fixed focus lens which was a very popular lens for handheld camerawork on 8 and 16mm. You just set the aperture and ran with it. The downside: it only works when you have enough light. Although this is a very fast lens with f/1.8, wide open practically EVERYTHING is out of focus, infinity starts getting sharp around f/4, and the foreground around f/8. So here are some images at different apertures, just so that you get an idea what this lens is like: (There will be slight dark corners up to f/4, but as you probably won’t be using it until f/8, you shouldn’t have any problems.) f/1.8: Everything is out of focus. The plant in the front is about 1m (3 feet) from the camera. f/2.8 is pretty much the same. f/4: The background is reasonably sharp, but the foreground is still soft. f/8: Now, this starts to look usable! The foreground is reasonably sharp now. f/11: Not bad at all, please look at the full size image to form your own opinion. f/16 is pretty much the same as this. Is it sharp enough for you?

It can be hard to track down footage from this camera to see it in action, so here's a site that does just that:   http://www.bmcc.tv/   Good to see it in use in many situations...   This is only a test, but it looks lovely:    https://vimeo.com/64463112#

This is a must read, if you haven't already...   http://davidbordwell.net/books/poetics_10cinemascope.pdf   He talks in detail about the compositions favored by the format.  

I made a short video this weekend with the SUN anamorphic + Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 55mm f/2.8 on the GH2.   https://vimeo.com/65033445

Hello Julian, great idea, very informative! For all those who would like to try some old lenses on the BMPCC, here are my lenses between 10 and 16 mm. None of these is younger than 30 years, most are cine-lenses taken from 8mm or 16mm cameras. Some can still be found cheap on eBay, others have multiplied in price since I bought them. All show vignetting with the MFT sensor, so I had virtually given up on them (except in crop mode). This first batch of images is with the apertures open. I will upload some shots from outdoors with apertures stopped down later. Leitz Macro Cinegon 10mm f/1.8 This is actually not a C but an M-mount lens, made for Leica’s flagship super 8 camera, the Leicina Special in the 1970s. Very attractive because it has a macro mode. It shows very slight vignetting, but may be usable still. Schneider-Kreuznach Cinegon 11.5mm f/1.9 A very popular lens for 8 and 16mm (1960s~). Also shows vignetting, but doesn't look too bad. Wollensak Cine Raptar 12.5mm f/1.5 A very old lens from an ancient 16mm Bell & Howell Filmo 70 DA, manufactured in the1930s. This is a f/1.5 lens but is a little soft wide open, so I stopped it down to f/2.7. Shows no vignetting. Cine-Nikkor 13mm f/1.8 This one comes from a very rare Japan Victor Corporation 16mm camera made in 1957. Nikon used to make very good cine lenses. This one is wide open now, but gets sharper when stopped down. (It looks like a wider lens here compared to the others, but that's only because I had to move back a little with my tripod to get it to focus.) No vignetting. Schneider-Kreuznach Cine-Xenon 16mm f/2 From a Beaulieu RC16, 1960s. Unfortunately, there's something wrong with the aperture ring of this one: it won't move. But still, a very fine lens without vignetting. (Well, looking at the thumbnail, you can see that the lower left corner is considerably darker. But in the full picture, it is not that apparent) I have two more lenses in this category, one is a Canon TV Zoom 11-110mm, which I didn't put on because it only focuses to 1.2m, and the other is an Angenieux 10mm Retrofocus lens, which is totally out of focus when wide open. I have also found an Avenir CCTV lens 6.5mm, very wide, which looks promising, but it is a fixed focus lens too. I will put them on along with the others when I shoot outside.