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I recently shot a teaser video for a feature film I'm developing. I'm aiming for a slightly analog look so I've been using AIS Nikkor lenses with the Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x adapter lens mounted to them. The Bolex has a 39mm filter thread on the back, so I'm able to attach it with a simple 39mm to 52mm ring. However, the only way I can align the anamorphic lens with this adapter is by keeping the filter thread screwed slightly loose, and rotating it to the right alignment, then sticking it in place with a thin strip of tape.   This works alright, but I'd like to figure out something more stable for purpose of a feature film. I've looked fairly extensively at the clamps available online, but I can't find anything (Redstan or otherwise) that is specifically tailored to fit the somewhat atypically shallow rear element of this lens, and I wondered if anybody else has had experience with this? I just need a solution that won't add a very substantial amount of length/vignetting to the lens, and will allow me to lock its alignment down. The tape solution results in slight, noticeable shifting around every time we refocus the lens.   Thank you!   Here's the teaser, shot it on an NEX-5n with the aforementioned lenses. Looking into filming the feature on a C300 or a Scarlet.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgqLqHZk3-A

I'm sorry for my poor english, but I'll try to explain the best I can. I have noticed a weird problem with RAW timelapse on my GH3. I recently started using RAW images for timelapse because I can recover more detail from underexposed areas in post and get a wider dynamic range. Take a look at this video:   https://vimeo.com/66920197 You can see two timelapse tests that have been done with all manual settings (exposure, white balance, shutter speed and ISO). ISO levels are 125 for the first test and 200 for the outdoor timelapse. The clips marked with "A" are the RAW sequences straight from the camera, the ones marked with "B" have been modified in exposure with Camera RAW. As you can see, there is a noticeable color shift between some pictures: some of them tend to blue/green creating an ugly color flickering. This problem is evident in underexposed areas, especially after increasing exposure, whether I have sunlight or artificial light. I generally use a deflicker plugin for removing aperture flicker in a timelapse, but this solution can't work for color changes like this. This is another timelapse test made in a room with a few light to better demonstrate the issue: [attachment=521:noise color shift.jpg] Picture 1 : RAW files before increasing exposure.   Picture 2:  Exposure increased a bit for all the shots, apparently everything's fine. Picture 3 : Further exposure increase reveals a shot with a much different color. Picture 4 : The blue shot compared to the others.   If you want to replicate the issue: 1) Set all settings manually (WB,ISO,aperture,shutter speed). 2) Make a timelapse in a room with a few light in order to obtain very underexposed images. 3) Shoot at least 50/100 pictures. 4) Check the RAW files and increase exposure even if you can see noticeable banding. Can you see some pictures with an evident color shift in the sequence?   I have tried changing lens, but the problem has still happened. I tried many other software for editing raw files, but the color shift is still there. Sometimes the color shift can affects lot's of RAW photos, sometimes only a few why apparently no precise reason. I tried correcting manually the frames with shifted colors with no success. This is sad because the color flicker ruins the opportunity of using RAW for timelapse on the GH3. 

I had the pleasure of testing the new Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art (on a Canon 100D...). Focussed on photography, but the results are amazing. Even at f/1.8 it is really sharp, I'm sure it will even beat many primes. It's pretty crazy actually!   [url=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/527-sigma-18-35mm-f18-18/][/URL]   [url=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/528-sigma-18-35mm-f18-18/][/URL]   [url=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/529-sigma-18-35mm-f18-18/][/URL]   Here you can find 78 sample pictures for download in full resolution. In the first slideshow everything is at f/1.8! http://www.digifotopro.nl/content/exclusief-%E2%80%93-testfotos-sigma-18-35mm-f-18-dc-hsm-art       I did a very small video test, wanted to see if it's parfocal. I think it is!   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-agLVS4MP_c   This will be killer on Blackmagic EF-mount camera's (if it will work?), Canon aps-c with raw... MFT with speed booster, if a electronic EOS version ever arrives...   Pricing of the 18-35mm is TBA...

I know everyone's flipping out about RAW right now, but I thought I would submit my latest real-world work: MTV True Life, I'm Starting a Business with Friends.  I shot this whole episode on Sony Rx100's.   I wrote a detailed blog post about my shooting and editing techniques. Will post a link to video as soon as MTV releases it.  Until then, enjoy the blog!   http://rungunshoot.com/how-i-made-an-mtv-reality-show-with-two-pocket-cameras-and-a-macbook/  

Download the newest version of Raw2DNG and turn caps lock off.

[URL=http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/image/531-package/][/URL]   ML isn't taking donations, but a developer requested a 50D. I bought a 50D + Battery Grip + batteries yesterday for a good price and I shipped it today. I'm hoping we can split the costs... If you want to donate to me, send me a PM and I'll give you the details.

wow the results look horrible. Im putting together a little review on the 2 Rich made for me. I love them do yourself a favour and get one from him or go really nuts and get a trump!  

If you're after close up filters add '95mm Focar A' & '95mm Focar B' to your list of Ebay saved searches - these are vintage Voigtlander +1 & +2 diopters. I believe they were made to suit an early Voigt zoom lens and are quality plus.   I say this because I just picked up a mint 95mm Focar B for $50!