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  And there's no free lunch!   A couple of days was another illustration of what you're talking about.  A band was playing up the block.  I took my 50D and EOS-M to shoot RAW.  The card immediately filled on the 50D (and later discovered that the file got corrupted so I still haven't been able to view it).  I shot a little RAW with the EOS-M but then figured the kids might want a video on one complete song.  So I put it on H.264, put my toy lens on, and shot the whole thing.   Of ALL the videos I've posted I've gotten the most likes and comments about that one.  And they're all right.  I was having fun.  The camera wasn't getting in the way of what and how I wanted to shoot it.

With a 2x CinemaScope lens the goal is to produce a 2.35:1 aspect ratio image with the 2x compression. In post you take the recorded image and stretch it horizontally 1.5x to (1920x1.5) = 2880 and also compress it vertically 0.75x to (1080x0.75) = 810.   Then you keep the middle section 1920 wide, which means you discard the sides. The final corrected image is therefore 1920x810 which is 2.37:1, with black top and bottom borders in a 1920x1080 frame. This is the aspect format used in Hollywood movies and it has the desirable 2x compression.   The reason you discard the sides is because the camera records in 16:9. In Hollywood movies they use something closer to 4:3 which is a better fit, but the scope is always 2x.   Using this technique with a 5D or full frame camera you have to use longer lenses starting from 85mm upwards.   (NOTE The 5D3 can shoot Magic Lantern RAW format which means that you can set a custom aspect ratio. So if you use say 1280x1080 crop then you can use lenses from about 60mm, go to the Magic Lantern site to learn more on this.)   Now for the tricks :)   I have set up a shot with a 5D and 1.8/85mm lens to demonstrate this to you, using a Moller 2x   The photo transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/testkit.JPG, shows the kit used for this quick test.   I didnt do a perfect align so there is some non symmetric framing. Focus is set to the Beatles record.   Then I took the images into Photoshop to simulate a post operation using the technique from the first two paragraphs and they are here: transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F18desqueeze.jpg transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F28desqueeze.jpg transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F4desqueeze.jpg transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F56desqueeze.jpg transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/F8desqueeze.jpg   These images are now in the same format that you see from Hollywood,  with a mild fall off in the corners as you stop down   You will have even better results using say 90 or 100mm, and if you use Magic Lantern RAW you can record at 1280x1080 then stretch to 2560x1080 which is better than Hollywood 2k format and if you want blu ray just uniform scale by 0.75

I have a LowPro Flipside 500, which is huge, and I love it, but I'm not sure It's big enough for all of your gear. It fits a BMCC with it's Switronix battery pack, a 5D3 and 6 lenses.   Sounds like a lot of gear, you might consider...

Would you mind if I use this thread with the same purpose? I also have an iscomorphot, but since I don't have it's clamp, I'm willing to let it go for $650, including shipping. It comes in a Bauer box, which fits the lens perfectly, has the original hood as well, and front cap. :)   Anybody interested? PM, or reply here, or mail me at ferradans@gmail.com

https://vimeo.com/70676250