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As a stills guy new to video, all of the concepts in Resolve are new to me. Everything in Capture One is familiar. Capture One is solid on my 2012 iMac, Resolve 10 Lite has crashed a couple of times. After a quick 5 minute grade in Capture One I'm gobsmacked at the quality of the raw from the pocket camera. My 5 minute grade out of resolve still looks flat and lifeless by comparison. So far using other people's LUTs in Resolve has resulted in my pocket raw looking garish and OTT. I'm sort of depressed about this camera for the first time. The look in Capture One is awesome. Everything I want it to be. The look in Resolve Lite is meh. There is a free video tutorial for every step of the process in Capture One. So far I've seen no proper tutorials for Resolve 10 (free or paid). All being for Resolve 9 which i think is somewhat different. I've spent two days trying to get my Capture One grade into FCPX. One minute of footage takes about 1 1/2 hours to export from Capture One. FCPX grinds to a halt trying to work with two thousand separate HQ clips. It might work ok with just over 100 clips, making up 4 seconds of footage. I'm dreaming over a motion version of capture One, but it looks like I'll have to get to grips with Resolve.

Standard DSLR is dead for video. Who the hell wants to get a 7D Mk 2 over a 4K shooting 10bit GH4, or a mirrorless full frame A7R?

Yeah from the image it looks like it should be unscrewed at the 4inch mark of the tape measure. The remaining part should be like this: http://transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/iscon3.jpg , this is the anamorphic adapter part. I suggest you ask JohnBarlow

If it worked without the taking lens then it means that it has the original taking lens on the back of it (the projection lens). By itself an anamorphic adapter cannot produce an image. You should try to unscrew the back part of the lens, or maybe post an image of the lens first.

Ultra stars are anamorphic projection lenses needing double focusing. These lenses are made for projection, so they don't focus very close, usually in the range of around 1.5 to 2 meters or so. First you mount them to a taking lens (with rear part of anamorphic as close as possible to taking lens as possible) using a clamp or a rail mount. When mounting, you need to rotate and align the anamorphic so that vertical and horisontal lines are really vertical and horisontal. People often shine a light into the lens to see a flare for that alignment. It can work to align it with camera pointed at truly vertical wall too (like a wall, door or something else you know will be aligned). When focusing an object at around 5 meter or so - first adjust your taking lens to 5 meters and then the anamorphic to 5 meters. If you nail the focal distance on both lenses your image should be in focus. If the focus is wrong on one of the lenses, you won't have anything in focus. Search in the forums a bit as well and you'll find more threads about: - aligning different anamorphics - using double focusing - Isco Ultra Stars.

So, you registered to drop your copy referral link twice...