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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2014 in all areas

  1. Hi guys, We just shot this video with the BMCC, Metabones Speedbooster, Nikon Lenses and Iscorama 54MC. RAW files were developped in After Effects CS6 (with Camera Raw) to Prores444 2400/1350. Color grading was done in AE. Please let us know what you think, we'd love to get some feedback. Cheers, Mihnea
    3 points
  2. This is my first video , any tip and critic is well accept, thank you
    1 point
  3. My first anamorphic test, any advice and critic is well accept
    1 point
  4. You won't get full resolution without good lighting as Maxonics pointed out. In low light, the camera goes into noise reduction mode, and there goes your resolution. For stills, a full frame would work the best, both from a low light performance perspective, and from the standpoint of getting wide shots with less degradation in the image, including less of a fish eye look. There are some good quality, modestly priced, fast full frame lenses, but you would have to watch your depth of field. In movie mode, the full frames still do fairly well in low light, although the difference isn't as great compared to crop lenses, since they throw away some of the light with sensor line skipping. If you want the ultimate in sharpness, I would be looking at the new Panasonic GH4 when it comes out next month, with its 4K resolution. You would get full 1080 if downres'd in post, too, something I have yet to see with any 1080 camera output (yes, the file is 1080, but the image is not). Michael
    1 point
  5. You know what I dislike most of all about when people have their camera explode and make an annoying video like this... they never explain the circumstances. If there is a serious problem, pity Blackmagic trying to find out what caused it! Did he have it plugged in? Was it under hot lights? How old was the camera? Who knows!?
    1 point
  6. Less than that from an iscorama 36. this will be measured, but it's expected to be less than 1/3rd of a stop. The glass surfaces are designed to accommodate more light transfer than a f2 aperture requires. the only loss will be from optic reflections, but being modern multi coated this wont be much. One of the main criteria in the brief is for the sections to deliver similar optical degradation to what you would expect from a rama 36. - which even on full frame, the degradations are almost nil
    1 point
  7. it's a bit cloak and daggers at the moment, but they are completely new designs I've been working on with a well known optical wizard. the 38mm front is slightly stronger than .7x and the 25 is slightly stronger than .45x. it was the only option since no existing product like this exists for the full frame format. Manufacturing is happening as we speak. assembly will be undertaken here in the UK. Schott glass. Uk metalwork, proper job:)
    1 point
  8. I've been working on house photography lately. You can might find some of this interesting http://maxotics.com/?p=199 Here are my suggestions. 1. Almost no house looks good in direct sunlight. Shoot either early morning, golden hour or when cloudy. If you must shoot in direct sunlight, as Pascal says, don't let all your shadows go to black. 2. I used to shoot some house videos. Used with an EOS-M or Nex7 (both worked great). I bought some used Smith Vector quartz lights for about $100. I just shone them mostly at the ceiling and let bounce light fill the room. The windows will usually all blow out, but at least the interior will have less noise. 3. Mind your lines! Picasso said if you want someone to look at your painting hang it crooked. However, I think he meant just a pinch ;) In any case, make sure everything you shoot, photo or video, has good lines. (I've been working on this and feel it is something I'll be working on for the rest of my life.) in any case, you want the viewer to feel the house is "striaght". 4. If you have the money, get a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema camera and an 8mm lens. That will give you about 24mm. With lights and a fluid head tripod you will get amazing quality. Just shoot in prores and do the auto thingJ in Resolve. Extra work, but NO ONE will touch your videos in quality. Will the difference show in youtube? Yes (because h.264 cameras are shadow/detail killers--unless you're lit perfectly within a few stops). JCS is my God lately, so I don't want to disagree, but I think any sort of speed-booster will have limited use because, except for those cool shallow depth of field shots of a flower pot on the window-sill, you want depth. For that you need LIGHTS. Maybe I didn't say that enough. If you had to get anything I'd get a bunch of small and large flat-panel lights. Batteries wouldn't be bad. My biggest problem was running wire from outlets. I guess that's enough of my silly advice for now. My favorite quote, "Amateurs talk bodies, professionals talk glass and photographers talk light." LIGHT, LIGHT, LIGHT!
    1 point
  9. I agree. A lot of hardcore forum users come across as 'camera spec geeks' who do nothing but moan the camera or lens is not good enough, when really, it is usually themselves that isn't. There is a very good reason why they spend a lot of time time on forums as opposed to actually shooting (and yes, cats and shots of bushes don't count!). Ignore them anyway and believe in what you think is worthwhile. :)
    1 point
  10. You hit the nail on the head.. Everyone is clamoring about the ability to shoot 4k but no one is paying attention to the underlying issue that the GH4 still shoots a poor de-bayered image that(much like pretty much anything else currently available under 12k) lacks detail. Shooting RAW OR 4k is not a feasible solution for MANY projects. I recently shot almost a Terabyte of 1080 footage for over the span of 3 days for a documentary(think about how that would limit or impact what you shoot, how you shoot, how often you would need to backup, etc). I see many positives to what the GH4 can provide(cropping 4k is super useful, pulling stills, etc), but I also see many negatives(including the headaches and limitations of the dslr footprint). I too would rather have seen a dslr format that could shoot a better QUALITY(non-debayered image a'la F3, c300, 1dc) 1080 image with increased bit depth, dynamic range, and the ability to over crank rather then get 4k and an externally powered box that enables sound and hd-sdi. Aside from it appearing to be an awesome camera with some great features, Right now I can't help but see the 4k feature in particular as being more of a "gimmick" for aspiring filmmakers to waste money on rather then becoming a serious tool for the arsenal.
    1 point
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