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The sports car test that i posted was pretty much the same sharpness with & without. & there have been people saying that with the Metabones SB moire etc... rears its ugly head a lot more than without - so sharper doesn't mean better. As far as the other FRs, i think they are much of a muchness & getting anal about which is better isn't really worth it. I'll just be happy to use my Russain & Super Takumar lenses again, with the added bonus of them being that little bit wider & faster!

Got mine today. Will be working on a review on the next days. It's pretty impressive! :P

That's what I keep telling Andrew! Felt the same way about the 50D guide, lots of great stuff beyond RAW.

Everyone on this forum should be buying this its a wealth of lens info !! get to it!! dont let the Sony tag put you off buying it , its a great lens guide that is relevant to any camera ....

To me the added bulkiness is good news, whatever the reason is. I think the 5N/5R was almost too small and poorly equipped. I'm also happy that they got rid of the annoying NEX menu/user interface. If only they also put some 'serious' guts inside a reasonably bulky consumer model, and got rid of the AVCHD codec, as well as the low pass filter. The jury is still out about whether a touchy-feely display would be essential or not. New a6000 reviews are popping up these days, done with the production model, but I'm still looking forward to some more video-centric reviews. I think we've all established by now that it's got a pretty fast AF system, so I wouldn't mind reading about something else for a change.

I feel like between the BMPCC, GH4, and A7S what else would you need? That's a pretty killer trio to pick from.

Yeah, real world shooting will be more forgiving. The Mitakon looks pretty good relative to the Metabones. Being softer isn't necessarily a bad thing in some cases. It's like a focal reducer, stop booster and OLPF all in one!

The only attempt so far, that I can find, of a comprehensive look at these adapters relative to the more expensive MB offerings: http://***URL removed***/forums/thread/3627547#forum-post-53156458 ...of course, charts don't tell the whole story. Just ask the Helios 44.

I'm guessing it is a setting relating to monitor display over HDMI to avoid playback jitter on screens that support 24Hz. Edit: It also seems that according to current standards 4K can only be transmitted over HDMI at 24Hz, whereas UHD can/will go higher in the HDMI 2.0 spec. Edit2: Having looked at the GH4 instructions, 24Hz (Cinema), 50Hz (PAL) and 59.94Hz (NTSC) are just system frequency settings to keep recording framerates divided into their specific regions. 4K records at exactly 24fps (only available in 24Hz mode) whereas UHD can record at 23.98fps, 24fps, 25fps or 29.97fps depending on what the system frequency is set to.

http://stores.ebay.com/RJ-camera-accessory-store He's pretty friendly so do ask all the questions you need answering!

I'm getting one delivered this morning in the US from ephotocraft. Pairing it with the Transcend 64GB card.

Panasonic representative [Panasonic Marketing Europe, Department in Poland] also told me, that GH4 should be available from beginning of May - in Poland. So it looks like GH4 global availability is planned for around beginning of May.

This looked pretty good, but the guy said it was an RJ but then claimed it came from Roxsen, so had the blue spot problem (the new RJ doesn't & he'll take an offer of $90-98):

Thanks Carlo! I actually have another 4 to post on my blog there. Anyway, I did manage to pick up an A6000 yesterday. So far though I've just been taking a few photos with it and seeing how good the higher ISO settings are. Not too bad actually. Compared to the NEX5N, and I presume some of the other older NEX range, the A6000 is a lot bulkier and not as comfortable to hold. Although I'm guessing that extra bulk may accommodate whatever cooling system they've implemented, so it doesn't overheat like the 5N did, along with the pop up flash, larger hot shoe etc. I'm sure I'll get used to the size though. It's good to have extra function switches and that dial on the top. I just need to figure out how to best customise those. The default settings actually work well, except for white balance which appears in a multi menu thing. A couple of quick questions though. Firstly, can anybody recommend a good screen protector? I saw this two pack on ebay for around $25 which includes a glare reduction protector and a normal one. The glare reduction one sounds decent, but apparently reduces the brightness of the LCD to around 92%. Also, what colour and profile settings are optimal for a really flat image? With my NEX5N I always used the sunset profile Andrew had recommended way back, with saturation, contrast and sharpness normally each set to -3. Which I always found to work well, although I sometimes bumped up the saturation a bit. I'm tempted to use the same settings, although I remember reading that the NEX7 had some kind of film look option. I'm not sure if that exists in the A6000 though? Of course I'm still yet to RTFM, so might check that sometime when I get a chance as there's a bunch of new options I'm not familiar with in the menus. Overall though, it seems to be a solid little camera with good image quality.

yea I did some testing today and I could not get it to over heat in the hot sun,I also let it run three 29 minute cycles and it didn't over heat,but that was at room temperature..I have to do more testing but I'm loving this little camera.

£1,300 with the Tokina ATX +0.4 Achromat Dioptre...I have the same combination and it's beautiful. Even if it doubled in value from £1,300....you'd have to prise it out of my cold dead hands :). Good luck with buying one, they are magnificent.

Hey Glenn, Your videos are great! Good luck with the A6000 and let us know how you get on:)

Of course you should have lights- that's not the problem. Part of the point of the large-sensor look is being able to separate your subject from the background. Part of that is achieved by creative lighting (contrasting), and the other is with DOF (wide apertures). There is a balance, as maxotics mentioned, where you don't want to go TOO wide that your subject drifts in and out of focus, but saying you should shoot at f/5.6 in the average indoor interview environment sounds more unprofessional than showing up without lights IMO! I usually use a lowel kit consisting of 3 lights with diffusers and reflectors. Still, my favorite interview lens is a 50mm F/1.4 and I stop it down to about f/2.8 to give a nice separation from the background. If that isn't possible or there is too much light, I'll place the camera farther away and use an 85mm instead. I just can't imagine trying to do this with that slow kit and getting results I am happy with. Then again, to each their own and if that's working for you, keep doing it! I just can't imagine how it could work. Can you share an example perhaps?

After spending a couple of days with the GH4 I can say that it's now going to be my "go-to" camera over Blackmagic. There might be a tad bit more highlight room with ProRes but it's a dip I'm willing to take for better resolution, insane battery life, flip out OLED, and HFR. I have a 128GB card coming in Friday that I will test, but so far Sandisk Extreme 95's are working great, as well as 45's.

You get a more robust lens but you loose a bit of flexibility – because of it`s design (as mentioned before). It becomes a real "fat lady" after the mod. And with the close focus mod done you'll need a FF with a faster gear ratio (2:1 like the Arri Cine FF). And this FF isn't a lightweight at all!! When I got my ISCO back from VD, I decided to mod the mod. A friend of mine – "SFX Lange" based in Hamburg – did the following: - we made it noticeable lighter (the mount is the heavy part of it) - we've added a solid lens support (Vocas) - we attached a torque motor on the lens support (redrock micro remote) The ISCO is held by the lens support and is just "pushed" in front of the lens (not screwed!) Now I can change the taking lens within seconds, without a recalibration of the ISCO is necessary. Have fun!

i have the mod and yes its expensive but im glad i got it. besides the metal housing protecting the lens, it makes it much stronger, so im not so worried about the plastic shrinking, deforming when focusing. i think it can take much more abuse. you will need lens support. it does get heavy enough that i think itd rip out a m4/3 mount, and stress out an ef mount. close focus at 3'7" rocks. you still need a diopter to achieve the nice bokeh i feel, but now ive got so much more flexibility. i do think the weight and increased throw makes it become less of a one man crew lens when using it. and if youre using a follow focus, you need to use use a thick gear and a speed crank to take care of the long throw. metal focus gear on metal focus gear will make noise. (im looking for a rubber focus gear on my follow focus.) the front element extends long enough you can probably forget using a mattebox. but this is all how i feel about the 54 anyway. both a rehoused 36 and 54 are amazing lenses but in my opinion they still produce different results. i also agree w tferradans in that i wouldnt have rented out the plastic version just because i dont think its robust enough. (i havent rented mine out yet and dont expect to until i figure out how to protect my investment in case someone says "it's lost"). and yes i think the resale value goes up. unless van diemen can crank out the mod in a week, youre not only reselling the lens, youre reselling the amount of time it took to get the mod in the first place which is a few months and seems like some people need/want the iscorama urgently enough to pay for it. i say if you seriously get use out of your 36, shoot a lot, and you have friends/crew that can AC for you, then get it. i absolutely love mine, its on my camera 95% of the time. if youre iscorama is nice and greased up, youre only shooting tests and youre a one man crew and really not using it that much, i dont think think the mod is worth that money.