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Iscorama 54/Video Attachment 2 1.33x anamorphic + custom fixture Hi all, Rather than go to eBay, where fees for both sale and PayPal will be very high, I’d like to see this go to other film makers here and do us both a favour. I'm not getting enough use from it to justify keeping it. As you can see I’m a regular poster and moderator, if you’d like any reassurances feel free to message me for more details. Ideally I’d like to make about £2500 but am open to sensible negotiation This is the last version of the 54 produced, a rather uncommon 1.33x stretch, with custom mount including push-button alignment system and 15mm rail attachment. Pictured carbon-fibre rods not included. A rare practical Iscorama 54! There's a tiny mark on the huge front element, a couple of mm and nothing noticeable. Like most 54s the focus is relatively stiff, it seems to be their hallmark.

Cool. Well, it seems to work fine then. Image looks good! So I guess to answer your earlier question, yes, the BMCC does work with the G6! :)

It's actually a plugin for forums that makes idiots go away.   Oh... I wish.

Actually I think it's my firewire drives I'll need to upgrade before the laptop...

Love it so far, thanks a lot. Now I just have to get my head around Final Cut...

Then you might want to buy a regular step down ring and just glue it to the back of the Sankor. That fits every budget, but it's a very poor solution, I'd say.

It isn't an image quality thing...   The different 1080p modes vary in other ways.   ALL-I for instance is easier on your computer to edit. The complex encoding for IPB is not there, just each individual frame 'as-is' one after the other like a sequence of JPEGs.   The bitrate of 200Mbit/s is higher in ALL-I just to maintain image quality, not to improve it from 100Mbit/s in IPB mode.   Because the efficiency of an ALL-I codec is lower, the data rate needs to increase.   So it is a common user misconception that image quality and bitrate have a direct correlation!   Shoot 1080p ALL-I if you need easier to edit files.   Shoot 1080p IPB if you need smaller file sizes and best quality compression.   Shoot 4K and upgrade your laptop if you want to get a clue ;)

Honoring My Father is the story behind Keith Kadoyama attending the Lantern Floating Ceremony every year. The Lantern Floating Ceremony honors our loved ones who have passed away. Keith honors his father Mitsuo Kadoyama, and he tells his story. Thanks to my good friend Keith for doing this. I conceived of the idea when I saw the announcement just 2 days before, and I'm glad he was up for the challenge. I shot all of this myself, so it was a lot of hard work! Shot on a Panasonic GH4, 4K with Panasonic LUMIX 12-35mm X lens and SLR Magic Anamorphot and Tiffen Vari-ND Filter GH4 shot with CinelikeD Contrast -2, Sharpness -5, Noise Reduction -5, Saturation 0, Hue 0 Master Pedestal +15, Highlight -4, Shadow +3, 0-255 F2.8, 1/50 sec, ISO 200 w Vari-ND, ISO 800 without Interview Audio: Rode NTG-2 shotgun mic with Rode Blimp on a Tascam DR-60D Music by Escape Club - "I'll Be There"

Andrew, the math has been explained that even though only the luma could possibly be 10-bits from an 8-bit 4K to 1080 downsample, in practice all that's going to happen is a low-pass filter and any additional luma variance will come from noise; not the same thing as capturing and directly storing 10-bits from the sensor. From the examples shown, one advantage of the A7S over the GH4 is more dynamic range from the sensor. Folks have already tested the GH4 10-bit external output against the 8-bit Canon Cx00 and the GH4 is significantly outclassed for post latitude. 10-bits can help with tonality gradations, however if true sensor dynamic range wasn't captured, an 8-bit system with more real sensor DR will outclass it. If this explanation doesn't make sense, you can do the tests yourself with actual footage. Thomas Worth wasn't enable to show there's real 10-bit gradations with his own custom software. If you want to be fair and accurate, you might want to revise the GH4 10-bit luma statement until you prove it to yourself one way or another with actual footage.

Also depends on the exposure. James Miller has had some nice shadows out of it  

If you hit ⌘r, the selected clip becomes a rubbertape. It gets a green top, meaning 100%. If you drag it inwards, it gets blue=shorter=faster, outwards it gets orange=longer=slower. Under the retime-icon (below the info window, right beside the magic wand) you find a timeramp in the menu, self-explanatory, where the clip is automatically bladed in four parts, either sped up or slowed down. The speed values displayed in the segments are actually target-values. There are, eh, "transitions". Brandons method to manually find the frames to use the blade gives him more control.

I didn't ask for your advice regarding whether or not to buy it. Look at the first sentence of my first post. I wanted advice about the GH4 itself. Also who the hell do you think you are to tell me what I am or am not? You don't know anything about me. Please stop trolling my thread. I'm not wasting your time - you didn't have to answer (let alone with unrelated advice). Can we leave this please, you are the one wasting my time.

I think that this video is a bit misleading because there is zero motion. It would be better to see some more motion to get a better idea of VP9 encoding with 4k on normal footage (movies) compared to paint drying videos.

Just finished this music video using the GH4 and BMPCC.

Well, I had two of the CN600. One of em literally fried itself after four years. That's not bad for 100 quid. I have to disagree on redheads for beginners, simply because the heat and fragility makes them impractical. I'd get LED but yes buy diffusion and half CTO gels in sheets. Also lots of blackwrap to shape the light and reduce spill. Spill and lackof diffusion makes things look more amateur.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f6WHDRGzYQ