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Nice project guys. As a 'rama user I might just be interested in this modification. Though unfortunately my 'rama tends to only see use when setting up FF58io's of late :( - i think it needs to come out to play more! Please consider these requests:- 1. incorporate a rear section that is made in two parts (the rear most part removable so user has option to allow the optic to protrude out the back slightly for use on lenses where seating the iscorama deeper into the front of the taking lens. In effect the rear most part would be a threaded tube of 15mm length or so that can be taken off if required. Additionally, the rear most portion could be interchanged with a donut type cup with the same mating thread for use when rigged and positioned in front of regularly changed primes. - if the iscorama could be slid back and fourth on the mattebox rail support, and butted against compact primes etc, the rehousing will be great for hire outs. 1b.. definitely provide a removable lens support leg allowing coupling to rails(to allow sliding back and fourth for prime changes). hiring something like this to a bunch of muppets on set who have never handled a iscorama would be a worrying prospect imagining them doing taking lens swaps over and over again all day. 3. maybe machine primary rehousing from ABS to shave off some weight? As nice as the metalwork is, It would be nice to avoid adding any more weight onto the filter thread of taking lenses if possible. No amount of body strength is going to save the 'rama if it is dropped due to a failure of a filter thread. 4. a lovely addition would be to have the focus mech non rotating. The 150degree turn for 3.5ft-inf would be a dream. if the diopter no longer rotated during focus, even better!!! xxx

The Contax Zeiss Distagon 'Hollywood' 28mm F2.0 is a classic fast wide for full frame and is incredible on Super 35mm as well. Wide open it's one of the sharpest F2.0 wide angle lenses available and it has very little distortion. The Contax Zeiss version fetches $800 on eBay but there's a $60 wolf in sheep's clothing called the Pentax PK 28mm F2.0 which has a fascinating story behind it. [url=http://www.eoshd.com/content/10730/60-pentax-thats-actually-a-800-zeiss-with-optics-by-designer-of-stanley-kubricks-nasa-glass]Read the full article here[/url]

It seems to be a common mistake to associate video card = video editing. That's (almost) completely wrong. GPU acceleration is used only by some editing software like Premiere Pro and only for some effects, actually from CS6 they added a lot of effects. Also keep in mind that GPU acceleration is used only for rendering effects not for decoding and encoding. So my advice is not to spend a fortune on video cards, just the best you can get that supports acceleration with your editing software and invest on CPU, RAM and dedicated HDD for videos. I'm not saying that GPU doesn't make a difference, I mean that high end GPUs can be an overkill.

My method for keeping noise at a quiet enough level: Fractal Design Define case http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-xl-r2-black-pearl - The cases have bitumen on sidewalls to suppress fan noise: "High density noise-reducing material for an optimal silent case - To achieve a high level of noise reduction, material with mass should be incorporated which is what we strive to achieve with the dense bitumen used on the side panels" - Very happy with these cases. I have one for my file server, one for my workstation. Unordinarily well-built cases for the price level. Anandtech GPU Bench 2014: http://anandtech.com/bench/GPU14/815 - I check noise levels, power usage and performance, and try to pick the best option for my needs. - Current GPU that I decided was enough for my needs: GTX 760 with 2GB mem. (You might want more power for 4k) In the computer case I add large 120mm fans that run at low speed to suck in air at front and blow out air in back. Hence the temperature in the whole case is usually lower and the GPU doesn't need to run fans at full power too often.

It's not as significantly heavier than the bare isco. I have never needed support puttin it directly on the taking lens. I find with the way they build the back end it screws in very securely to any 52mm or 58mm lens. This new version is going to be modified for even closer focus but most important the shorter focus throw. This makes it much better for run find fun shooting. Feel free to email me with other questions.

Thanks Clayton, I have significant memory problems and I had completely forgotten what the thread was about. It's people like you who make life for the disabled that much easier, you clearly have no interest in the camera, yet you suffered through the entire post and then the entire thread merely to help me out! Most people with no interest in the camera just ignored the post, yet you, Champion among men, Hero among lessers, God among sheep, Giant among hobbits, Poet among the illiterate, you sir are just amazing, wonderful and epic. I hope my gratitude makes up for the time and effort you otherwise needlessly and selflessly put in.

Hi Andy, got the Yashica in the end, works like a charm. Thanks for the recommendation.