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one of the links above that was given as proof of cheap perfect optics was a kowa with optical damage. just because someone says a rainbow like bloom across the optic has zero effect does not mean it is true. repairing seperation is either possible or not but it will be expensive. an optically mint condition kowa should be worth more than an slr magic as the kowa is superior to 1.33 or the new 2x. the kowa is a great optic one in mint condition fully tested should be valued higher than some vague ad giving false information about condition. the massive amount of bell howells floating around dual focus issues has damaged the market for kowa. optically panasonic,slr magic,optex and century are all inferior optically and analogue esthetically. 400-500 euros for a guaranteed optic hollywood quality seems ok to me.

Seriously? What do you pay for? It's just a Vimeo Channel... you can't actually upload anything right? I just see Vimeo vids...

Apart from Kodak telek and Zeiss distar etc there is no a negative version of a close-up filter :( You can find some negative lenses here: http://www.ebay.de/usr/logoxxl-gmbh Achromat 75mm -3.5 Diopter http://www.ebay.de/itm/Grose-HQ-spezial-Linse-Achromat-konvex-konkav-75mm-3-5-Dioptrien-f-286mm-/181269965491 Or Why not start with this kit for experimenting? Six 75mm lenses: 3 positive (+2, +3, +5) and 3 negative (-2, -3, -5) for us $16.00 !!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Optical-Glass-Lens-Set-3-Dbl-Convex-3-Dbl-Concave-75mm-Dia-20-30-50cm-FL-/281366510539 ;)

This sort of modular build is reminiscent of Red where I can say as a former Epic / R1 owner, the body is the cheap part. To be functional on a pro level costs a fortune (my package was about 150k USD, the "brain" was a fraction of that) . But let's start with the basics a semi-pro needs to be functional. Axiom Body (2or 4 grand at retail). 4k recorder EVF On board Monitor Media (whatever it uses) AB or Vmount Battery system (four batts, charger, batt plate) Baseplate and rods Mattebox Canon Adaptor (the semi pro won't be buying PL glass) ND IR Set (Axiom has no built in ND) SDI Module (Price?) Hand Held Rig Put in your estimates, add it all up and tell me does it cost less than Sony's proposed price of an F7s? Will it be as functional without built in ND's? Will you be using or buying more lights with its less than stellar ISO? Will you lose set up time lugging a battery system instead of small internal mount batts that'll get you till lunch until you have to change? How well will it talk with Canon EF Lenses? Is your Alphatron or Zacuto EVF driving you nuts already? Are you better off buying a used Red 1 MX with better ISO, IQ and established workflow? How much do you really save? Things to think about before pulling the trigger on any system.

There cannot be TOO MANY CAMERAS for me! :) :) However... o. The cost puts it out of the reach of most amateurs o. It's trying to do too much, too fast and reeks of "vanity project" for all. o. Commercial users will require commercial support and ML has a poor record of delivering that kind of reliability. o. If a 3rd party offers commercial support can they survive on just one platform, against other better capitalized providers? o. There are very, very few people who can/want to developer software--PERIOD. I cannot stress this enough. So what's the benefit to them? In fact, it's a negative because no one wants to feel responsible for something they're uncomfortable with. In short, VERY, VERY FEW PROFESSIONALS would use anything but a rock-solid, time-tested platform on a real shoot. o. What happens if a serious flaw prevents the first batch of cameras from working? Who will pay? o. Didn't Ricoh try interchangeable sensors? Some ideas are good in theory but NEVER work in practice o. Why can these guys do what BM can't? Because they'll work for free? Because they're smarter? Because BM is dysfunctional? There needs to be a GOOD reason for it to be sustainable. o. I don't hate the camera makers (even after Panasonic wouldn't fix my GM1 :( ). Open Source, and other social virtues can get awfully expensive and I'm not sure people will be forgiving when their $2,000 camera keeps resetting because of some shitty capacitor buried in a circuit-board. My opinion, they should take the money and try to create the lowest-price open-source camera, start small, and build up. Plan for it to take 3-5 years.

Hi! Website is finally online! Feel free to check it out and leave some feedback ;) www.vimazing.com

200Mbs all-I is highly variable bitrate. Try shooting something with lots of random and sharp motion in frame. Why are you shooting with all-I anyway? It is the worst codec in GH4.

Count me as interested

Try these: nikon 52mm +0.7 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Close-up-Attachment-No-0-/161437808089 62mm +0.5mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Izumar-Nahlinse-0-5-62mm-/380988682376 tamron 72mm +0.5 -2 years ago someone was selling this at 75 euros http://www.ebay.ie/itm/220932585934 http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAMRON-CLOSE-UP-ADAPTOR-LENS-72mm-FOR-MACRO-/111477604961 or you can adapt these: tamron +0.5 72mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamron-72mm-Close-Up-Adapter-Lens-for-28-200mm-F3-8-5-6-Camera-Lens-/291240881414 Carl Zeiss +0.5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hasselblad-Carl-Zeiss-T-Proxar-f-2m-B57-Close-Up-Camera-Circular-Filter-/261602473456 this is the best: Leica elpro ACHROMAT 55mm +0.75 (30 euros shipping included!) http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEITZ-LEICA-ELPRO-4-Nr-16544-MIT-ETUI-vi025-/291261045291 ;)

At the moment we are 14 on the list, here we are: comurit eeeceegee ( to be confirmed) yannis.zach ( to be confirmed) nahua ( to be confirmed) oznimbus ( to be confirmed) dahlfors silvertonesx24 tonydtv ( to be confirmed) valid anti12 ( to be confirmed) bootsie kristoferman Caleb Genheimer Kerrick ker-Bear Martin At the end of october I would like to send this list to anamorphic shop and see if we can get a discount coupon for all of us on the list. Some of you need to confirm before the end of october please. thank you for your cooperation!!!!

Now this is delusional... isnt it?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Iscorama-Anamorphot-1-5X-36-Isco-Gottingen-Anamorphic-MC-lens-Kowa-1-5X-2X-/251669389767?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item3a98aa21c7

When I'm here on this site I feel I'm more akin to the self-proclaimed coffee shop "author" that talks more about his typewriter than the stories he should be composing. What do you do to get motivated and create? I'm wrapped up in some ennui over here. Too much endless corporate work perhaps? Not sure. Making a living, but yearning for something more, so there's a lot of wandering aimlessly around the web. Basically, as a filmmaker, it's hard to feel productive visiting tech blogs like EOSHD...and for some reason it's a way too common destination/distraction. Curious that, for lots of reasons. It's great for some simple advice, but honestly there's not a ton of actual filmmaking discussion going on. I think my gear-porn tendencies are a huge liability as an actual creative. Augh, how to get off one's ass and get something worthwhile made?

The best way to learn filmmaking is to watch and observe films, develop a taste, then experiment and eventually arrive at your own techniques. It worked for Quentin Tarantino, and it will work for you.

Nowadays, most people have nothing to say, but they'll say it anyway. I think, I know, I believe... Tarkovsky, Fellini, Godard, Bergman, were readers, first. So go to the library, borrow books -plays, classic novels, philosophy- and only then, you might have a chance, one day, to write something which will have a somewhat universal artistic value worth sharing with fellowmen who can really appreciate a deep, thorough, moving piece of story telling.

personally I like to set my project up with a frame size of 1080 tall, and with the width stretched from 1920 to whatever my final unsqueezed image will be. So for a 1.33x squeeze anamorphic lens I multiply my 1920pixel width by 1.33 and end up with around 2553pixels. granted you cannot export a h264 compressed file bigger than 2000px wide, but you can export uncompressed Mov's at full 1080x2553px if you have the means to play it back. exporting at 1920x1080p means you end up with black bars at the top and bottom meaning your added pixels are resized down to fit the smaller export frame meaning your height is divided by 1.33 (800px or so) but this is quite nice because it ends up sharper than your preview window. Importing the footage into premiere I then right click each clip in the preview window and chose modify. you can then apply a stretch to the clip before importing it into your timeline - freeing up processor power because the footage is not not having to be stretched in realtime. 4:3 will be better than 16:9 with the 2x anamorphic adaptor. - as long as it uses most of the sensor and doesnt crop. the 2x de squeeze will then be closer to 2.40:1 than if you used 16:9 sensor mode. Even in 4:3 mode I would probably crop away a little of your edges to get the footage less wide. 2x on a 16:9 sensor is silly wide, and even on 4:3 it looks too wide for me. Dont get too concerned about loosing visual information on the sides - your GH2 is very detailed so will not suffer as much as if it were to be done on a lesser camera:)