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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2014 in all areas

  1. To imagine how many Micro Four Thirds primes you're getting in with the deal, here's what the aperture does throughout the range :)   11mm - F1.7 (24mm equiv. taking into account 2.2x crop) 16mm - F2.3 (35mm) 22mm - F2.7 (50mm) 34mm - F2.8 (75mm)   Not bad for $899, though I am sure the LX200 will end up with an OLED EVF and F2.0 at a 50mm long end (110mm).
    3 points
  2. Since LX100 uses the same sensor as GX7, I was able to convert LX100 raw after running exiftool (download from http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/) on raw files tricking it thinking those raws comes from GX7: exiftool -model="DMC-GX7" <raw_file_name> Then you could use raw converter of your choice which supports GX7(I think all do).
    2 points
  3. But hasn´t Andrew just proven that it does not really count if a camera is technically 8 or 10bit if the end result is of good quality? Sure, this is not an Alexa, it´s not 4:2:2 ProRes recording and no 14bit raw video .. but it shoots damn good pictures you have to go quite far to find something similar in 10bit. With stills capability. That size. Wrote a little bit more about mixing LX100 footage with 10bit raw(log) footage here: http://hackermovies.com/panasonic-lx-100-vs-5d-mk-iii-english
    2 points
  4. If he doesn't want to sell that lens outside Germany, he will get much less than €2000. Another german Isco sold for roughly €1000 a few weeks ago, in perfect nick!
    2 points
  5. On the multirotor forums people were salivating over the possibility of flying this; GoPro fisheye gets old, and flying a gh4 sized package requires exponentially larger and more expensive rigs. I've got a copter I built just for the gh4 but I just don't want to deal with the stress of flying $7500 worth of equipment around if I don't have to. WiFi operates on similar frequency to my control radio so there's no way I'm flying an active WiFi transmitter around. Anyway end of detour
    2 points
  6. Hi, I'm starting doing anamorphic photography and EOSHD has been great helping me understanding this technic. I'm shooting with a Nikon Df that have a 3:2 ratio. My anamorphic adapter is a Kowa Prominar 16-H 2x. To find the aspect ratio, I took a photo at home to a circular box and squeezed the image until it turned circular. It gave me a ratio of 2,82:1, as you can see in this image https://www.dropbox.com/s/bmq13xv97syuzx5/DSC_7602_2%2C82.jpg?dl=0 I read an article somewhere that talked about a value of 2,66:1. I tried that but the box resulted a little ovalized https://www.dropbox.com/s/qxmxy9qtn9iokgi/DSC_7602_2%2C66.jpg?dl=0 Is my aspect ratio correct? I have this doubt because I can't find anywhere what's the best ratio when we are shooting in 3:2. My first anamorphic images with a 2,82:1 ratio https://www.flickr.com/photos/96852153@N00/sets/72157649089398262/ Thank you, Nuno Boavida
    1 point
  7. By all means, constructive posts are fine, and maybe you can contribute to this thread by being clear about the points in the camera labs review that concerns you the most. I'm sure there are valid concerns that could/should be addressed in a FW update for instance, or if you need to point out certain uses the camera is not going to be great for. The posts that I referred to were either *a* Complaining that a $899 camera doesn't have 4K 10-bit, when Panasonic is pretty much revolutionizing the compact segment to even include 4K. and *b* People that practically cut and paste their own post several times saying why they don't like the camera and another camera is better. That adds nothing to the discussion after the first time....
    1 point
  8. It's always been a FT sensor in these cameras. Only the mounttype is called differently to make a distinction between SLR and mirrorless, the mount these days is a MFT/M43 one, it used to be FT when the cameras where still using mirrors (to allow light being redirected to the optical viewfinder). So it still uses a 4/3" sensor (1.33"), but the mount flange focal distance due to being mirrorless (no mirror, so no optical viewfinder, that's why mirrorless cameras have either no viewfinder or a digital one) is greatly reduced.
    1 point
  9. I think this could make a really cool short actionmovie. Like the trailer... Just add more variation and a better story. 90+ minutes of this? No thanks.
    1 point
  10. If not push/pull way, looks there is two rings, front one rotating to lock/unlock.
    1 point
  11. just do it on the nikons - they are great lenses
    1 point
  12. Gordon Laing in the (very detailed) CameraLabs review said that there is no filter thread, hence the confusion.
    1 point
  13. Heres another short I shot today using the A7s. Opening shot is using the time-lapse app, which is pretty convenient! This was a difficult assignment. Had to arrive at the stadium at 7am and have the thing shot and edited by the afternoon before the finals show started. The a7s didn't get in the way, and the lightweight was a huge plus since I was used to lugging the C100 around. Overall Im incredibly happy with the camera
    1 point
  14. I'm trying to fly less weight☺ I was actually thinking of trying a small board cam mounted behind the lx100 and shooting the back screen of the camera. I don't need HD, just enough Res. for framing and a reasonable idea of exposure.
    1 point
  15. It's not sharper than GH4 4K though is it?   :D  :D  :D  :D
    1 point
  16. As some have observed, yeah Auto ISO is only for stills mode, when you start recording video it goes off manual ISO only.   The way around this is to set the camera to iA mode and shoot in full auto, then the exposure will correct during a recording if the light level changes. I don't recommend shooting video this way because it looks rubbish, but some might find it useful for certain shots.   M mode is when the shutter and aperture are set manually. A big M appears in the top left of the screen. A mode is when the shutter speed is set to auto but aperture is selected on the lens ring.   S mode is when the shutter is set on a manual setting and aperture is set to auto on the lens ring.   P mode is when both shutter and aperture are on their auto setting.   See... who needs mode dials anyway!?
    1 point
  17. I would never put a camera into my pockets, that place is full of dust and you won't get it out a camera with fixed lens. You also don't want to stress the aligment between lens and sensor.
    1 point
  18. Some more news from Rectilux. Earlier I posted some footage from experiments in superwide anamorphic. The Rectilux 9FF now has a face and it is the first incarnation of the various embodiments I have been experimenting with. It is a 2x zoom anamorphic lens, field of view 180-90 degrees. Some product views on my website. http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-9ff.html
    1 point
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