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I agree it is bad they do not have live HDMI out, and I can see that in your situation it is especially frustrating, but they are a FAR cry from Canon! Worst case, you can start the recording before you take off, and mount a tiny camera w/transmitter on the quad copter - I have heard others are planning on doing this. Yes, it's a pain, but at least you can get the shot. Try to get 4K out of anything portable and affordable from Canon :)

I have the D5300 and the G6, both of which I use with manual AI-S and AF-D glass (and my Tokina 11-16 operates like a 'G' lens) The problem with using the D5300 as a stills and video camera is you basically need a set of lenses for each function. G glass isn't very good for video, and manual glass is no good for stills (other than still life, as Chris says above). The D5300 has no metering for manual glass, focusing is impossible because the optical VF is tiny, there is no focus confirm for AI lenses, and live view is VERY slow for stills and focus assist. If you really need great stills quality I would actually buy G lenses and put up with the quirks for video. Coming out of live view to change aperture with G lenses isn't a huge problem if you use an ND filter to change exposure. The focus rings on some of the cheaper G lenses (e.g. 35mm 1.8) are pretty dismal for manual focus though. Manual aperture on AF-D lenses is not available in any mode on D5200 or 5300, but you can easily get around this by putting a small piece of electricians tape over the chips on the back of the lens, or just by not fully clicking the lens into place when you put it on (it still holds pretty firmly). AF-D glass doesn't autofocus on the D5300. It does have focus confirm inside the VF but I don't find it very useable for stills at all. Because of the chips AF-D glass does meter though. The D5300 is beautiful for video shots with shallow DOF or without too much detail, and pretty decent in low light, but wide shots of foliage etc are mushy and personally I'm not always keen on the video image in bright sunlight in general. The G6 is much easier to use manual lenses with so I tend to use it for stills, but I'm not very keen on the quality. The D5300 is capable of far nicer stills, if you have the right lenses. As everybody here knows, if you want a cheap hybrid camera you have to compromise somewhere. You need to decide what your priorities are ... The GX7 seems to be the best cheap all-rounder atm. Better stills than the G6 and video quality closer to the D5300 (without the softness). My personal opinion is that Panasonics are very capable of producing lovely, organic video, they just take time to figure out and you have to put the right glass on them...

Yeah, you guys are right, in addition to not fitting in your jeans, it also isn't a video camera. Just look at it, it just oozes 'modern retro photo camera'. Just everything about it screams 'take photos with me!'. Except for the fact that it dóes take video. And does that very well so and in 4K. What other camera does that? None. The RX100 doesn't take 4K video. Yeah, maybe your smartphone shoots 4K... but it does so with its tiny sensor, crappy optics/range and shitty bitrate. Great degree of manual control? Forget it! So in fact the LX100 is definitly NOT like every other camera out there. So it doesn't have an audio interface. Well, record externally or if you're just shooting some scenic footage, put some music under there. So you need to manually select shutterspeed by turning a dial and if you don't want 1/60th but 1/50th of a second, turn two dials. That takes you maybe one whole second, wow, yeah, that's aweful guys, don't buy this, it takes you a second to change shutterspeed. Can you just imagine? It's not flat enough, I need my flat cinematic profiles. Well, just dial everything back, the colors will stay nice, but yeah, gradeability is slightly effected because it isn't thát flat and doesn't let you push it as far as let's say a BMPCC. Well, you should've gotten that one instead then. Except, unlike the LX100, it doesn't take any stills and 4K video for example. There's compromises lurking around every corner! Nobody's telling you to ditch your current gear and buy the LX100 as your exclusive camera for video! Nobody's telling you the LX100 is ideally designed for video shooting... but again, at the end of the day it does enable you to take very nice 4K video. And what other camera can say the same for 799 EUR? I already have the GH4, if I know I'm gonna shoot video, I will make sure to use that one. If I'm out and about and I'm not planning on shooting any stills or video, but when there's a moment I wish I did, it's nice that I don't have to settle for my smartphone's quality, I can take out the LX100 and shoot awesome stuff! When shooting video with the GH4, the LX100 becomes one hell of a B-camera! Like Andrew said, if you need another angle, the LX100 will help you out greatly! It also intercuts nicely with other footage. At the end of the day... isn't it all about getting the results you're after... or even the ones you before never dreamed of? It's not designed with the main feature being video. So they went with the clickety type (although a declick button would've been a nice feature). Just gotta use a variable ND-filter to gradually control exposure instead.

Hi, Couple of months ago, a photographer (nickname lenuisible) decode the wireless communication protocol between image app on smartphone and GH3 camera http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1. I took these, and adapted to my 13 years old remote control software (originally written in vb6 for casio qv3000). After a couple of days, the software now finds the camera, queries its capabilities, and allows user to control the camera from windows PC. It is a very simple program, you just see the commands (like focus, zoom, exposure, aperture, white balance etc...) and use them. You can also record those settings and play them back later. You can tell the program to repeat those commands. So you can make timelapses by zooming in each shot, or changing the white balance when its dark outside. For examplle you can adjust the focus between objects and then you can set the focus with one click like this: http://www.dijitalakademi.com/P1640788.MP4 You can program complex set of commands and make it replay those (or replay and repeat) I also added liveview from http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1, thanks to lenuisible.. You should just press "Liveview" button. But you have to have java installed in your machine. From the post, "Java RE : download here : http://java.com/en/download/index.jsp Add the java bin directory to your PATH, On a windows machine, the Java bin directory should be : C:Program FilesJavajre7bin" I have a FZ1000 to test it, it works ok, but it should work with all wifi enabled LUmix cameras. So feel free to try it, and let me know how it works. Before you run the software, you should enable wifi from camera, connect the camera either a wifi network, or your pc to your camera. Program should find the camera automatically.. If program gives "no response from camera" then check wifi connection, get closer to the router, try again.. you can download and install it from http://www.dijitalakademi.com/lumixcontrol.zip Screenshot:http://1.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~forums/54696040/62ebbbd324fa4551932accb5bf73f94b

I got my LX100 yesterday. Don't know how it is compared to the GH4 + 12-35 combo, but the IS seems quite efficient from the tests that I did. The main thing I wanted to confirm is that the IS effectively deminished micro-jitters (which it does quite well, even while holding the camera in your hands only). And the image quality is quite stunning in 4K. I was also pleasantly surprised with image and noise performance in low light/higher ISOs. Up to now, I'm really happy I ordered one! Please report back for your thoughts once you'll have received and tested it!

I guess we got that... but please, keep saying how you don't like this camera, you seem to enjoy it.

sent on their facebook page

I edit on a Mac Tower w Nvidia graphics card so it will be faster than any laptop. But I've been able to do quick edits on my Macbook Air with the GH4 4K files. The 4K files are really not the problem, you'll get the same performance if you shot 1080P 200mbits. Like I said in my post before, I use the Final Cut Pro XML option between Premiere Pro and Resolve. If you really want proxies, you could just render in ProRes422 Proxy at 1080P, then render, edit in Premiere Pro, replace the footage in Premiere Pro and export the XML to Resolve. I've never done it that way, but it's worth a try. To replace foorage in Premiere Pro, click on the footage you want in the bin, then click the timeline footage and pick replace -> footage from bin. So you have two sets of footage - original 4K from GH4, 1080P ProRes422 Proxy. I really hope this helps out! Good luck on your project!

I have good wide angle converters that are bigger (and pretty expensive) and they work well. For video, you will likely be ok (especially if the final result will be 1080p), for photos I would be more concerned. One note though: depending on the weight and how the lx100 is built/works when focusing/zooming, it could be a concern to mount something more substantial than a filter on the front. Someone else can probably give you a better idea of whether the lx100 is ok for this or not in that sense.

I have the DJI Ronin and can tell you the build quality on it is top notch. I met another shooter who had the Came (forgot which model) and he said he ended up returning it because it didn't work for him. I let him try my Ronin and he said the overall quality versus the Came is night and day. I don't have experience with Came gimbals at all so I can't really comment on it. Also one thing you need to consider is that Came is overseas, so if you have issues and need to return, it's going to be a headache. As for the Ronin, the rig is VERY HEAVY. Unless you have the arm strength of a NFL player, I don't see anyone lasting a day or even half with this rig alone. I have both the Blackmagic Production 4K and Pocket cameras... and even on a stripped down load (Pocket + DP4), I don't see myself lasting half a day with it. I just ordered Atlas 2 rod camera support the other day so going to see how that goes. With the Atlas, I should be able to last all day with the Ronin. Having said all this, the Ronin is simply amazing. When I first received it, it took me 10minutes to have it up and running. Now it only takes me less than a few minutes. Side note.... I was at Photo Plus Expo last week and had a chance to toy with Freefly Movi and Defy gimbals and both are lighter than the Ronin, but the prices are also higher.

Ive never had a sucessful way of doing this , they all seem to be slighly different depending on who makes them , I use alot of Chinese LED tubes and they dont really correspond to anything to referance to. So I just get used to what Im using with LEDs

I wasn't aware there are multiple settings on the LX100, but the discussions I have seen on other forums, from people owning the RX100 and/or the GH4, is that the between the LX100 and RX100, the RX100 has more effective stabilization, but does not maintain the quality level (sharpness, detail), due to active mode doing electronic stabilization on top of optical. A couple of people owning the GH4 as well as the LX100, say that when moving around it is better controlled with GH4 + 12-35 2.8 OIS, but standing still, the LX100 OIS is better. On a sidenote, as Andrew noted as well, others state moire does not seem to be quantifiable worse than on the GH4, and probably better than GH3. I should get my LX100 on Friday, so looking forward to testing it out.

I think this could make a really cool short actionmovie. Like the trailer... Just add more variation and a better story. 90+ minutes of this? No thanks.

I'm too old to give a shit about this.

What I do is edit everything in premiere pro. I use the scale option in the motion section of the effects for the clip, then copy it to every clip. After the edit is done, I duplicate the timeline, select all clips and pick "remove effects" which will remove the scaling. Then I export the XML. Import into Davinci, set the frame size, and then scale the clips to the frame size. BTW I think you should use Davinci at the end for color correction. I find it way more powerful than any of the tools in premiere pro. Just my thoughts, I hope this helps!

  Indeed.   And Mr Troll above says he is doing me a favour to visit the site. I should be so grateful to him! ;)

BTW there is no paid for advertising on EOSHD - Andrew does this for the love of filmmaking .....not $$$ off advertisers ....look no banner ads here!

  I wonder if users of my own forum will learn from basic human ethics, that in criticising the owner of a free resource whilst simultaneously being a signed up member taking advantages of the online services like latest news and a forum is unfair.   Besides only an idiot would read a rumours article 'as factual'.