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Based on Andy Lee's recommendation I went and bought a Tokina ATX 28-70mm zoom lens. I tried it with my GH4 + Metabones Speedbooster + Kowa 2x Anamorphic. The lens has some interesting character. I think it's more "soft focus" and not so contrasty as most modern lenses. The only thing is it doesn't flare enough. I wish it was just a simple single coated lens. I wonder if there's any zoom lens that isn't multi-coated but offers the same F2.8 or better range. I really debated between the Tokina and Sigma 18-35mm, but the Tokina does have the best zoom range that's most usable for anamorphic use.

Just out (Nov 20, 2014). Fixes various issues including some compatibility issues with the Sony A7S. For the update and details see (Windows version): http://www.metabones.com/article/of/MARK_IV_Firmware_Win For the mac version, see: http://www.metabones.com/article/of/MARK_IV_Firmware_Mac

I'm aware of that, but here the image is not becoming too flat (I'm using Contrast:0) and I like the results. I would only advice not to push it too far, but mainly because of noise (the color shift is still small at S/H:+5/-5). It is the same 8bit codec as in GH4. People are using really flat profiles with GH4 - tuning not only highlights/shadows but also Master Pedestal and CineLikeD with low Contrast so don't say we are going too flat with these settings here - go and criticize GH4 users ;). Wrong topic. Deleting.. :lol:

There are more photosites on the RGB sensor on the F35 than any bayer pattern camera since made . Or at least I think so . I don't know. Anyway here's something I just shot on the f35 - regraded using davinci. It can create such lovely colors.

Hello. We used Nikon D5200 and D5300 for this video.

I really love the idea of being able to adjust your lights while looking at your monitor. Bought two of them....

zzzzzzzzzzzz...... By the way, anyone happen to know if there is a blacklist function on this site?

I think all the double focus anamorphics that work with FM will be more expensive. FM will keep his price. Just my opinion Andy and by the way the olympus 100mm you suggested is working great. Thanks

can you all take a time out and not in fight please ! if you dont want one, leave the guys on this thread who do want one to sort out their deal. just remember in 6 months time these might be worth half the price you are paying now and no one has tried one on this forum yet.

I learned this technique some 6 or 7 years ago in some short Photoshop course and totally forgot about it. There are different combinations of CMYK percentages that represent common variations of proper skintones from various races. Of course, no skintone is exactly the same so this is used as a guideline and you adjust the percentages just a little bit for your actual subject. Then you can throw that corrected still into your editing suite and use it as a reference. Here is tutorial link: http://www.graphicconnectionkc.com/skin-tone-correction.html At the bottom of that page are most common skintones with CMYK percentages.

All scientific and artistic advancement is built on a pile of discarded and seemingly useless ideas and findings. One man's garbage becomes another's treasure and the other way too :)

Hey - Recently just bought the GH4 and was looking at some Rokinon and SLR Magic lenses. I was wondering if I should get them MFT mount or purchase a speed booster and get the EF mount? I am assuming the crop factor will decrease if I get the EF and speed booster but the fact that I won't have to use a adapter with the MFT is great. Just want to get some thoughts on this? Also can anyone recommend other primes that are great with the GH4? Thanks

Why contrast zero but then shadow/highlight +2/-5? Wouldn't you rather go for contrast -5 and shadow/highlight 0/0? I don't use the cinestyles that much on the GH4/FZ1000 anyways (unless demanded), I do like the toned down natural profile.

This post was intended more as a way to see does the camera have accurate (as we see it in reality) skintones and not for grading, because grading gives stylized looks according to the mood and your preference. Regarding CMYK, in this technique it's used by photographers because they have separate control over blacks opposed to RGB. So when you have correct CMYK values in Photoshop, you can then export that jpeg or tiff in sRGB color space which is very similar to Rec709. Then you can put that jpeg side by side with your corrected but not graded footage in your editing suite and see the difference. I think it could be helpful for tweaking the camera color settings. Of course this would probably only work for daylight balanced shots. It wasn't my intention to suggest that everyone should now use Photoshop and change regular workflow for video, but finding some kind of a way to judge color accuracy objectively(with the help of some mathematical measurements), not in the subjective "I like Canon colors, you like Nikon colors, that one likes Sony etc." way. This was just an idea, so if someone finds it helpful great, if not nevermind.

But then something happened that the Ring did not intend. It was picked up by the most unlikely creature imaginable ...

Indeed a lot of people are using Natural profile. Thanks for the hint, I'll try it too. I did some more tests with Highlight/Shadow inverted S curve. Deep shadows are improved, but it introduces also more noise in midtones. So you should be careful with Shadows part and push it to +5 only when you have something important in deep shadow. Highlights part is less destructive and safer to use. To bring back proper colors you will need to lower saturation (in camera or in post), especially noticable when restoring the contrast in post. The stronger the curve, the lower saturation is needed to maintain colors in final image (otherwise they quickly become oversaturated and bright like neon). I do often need to brighten the shadows a little, so I'll probably use something like Shadow/Highlight: +2/-5... (and lower saturation accordingly to have less work in post) So for now it's something like: Picture profile: Natural Contrast: 0 Sharpness: -5 Noise reduction: -5 Saturation: -3 (or 0) Shadow/Highlight: +2/-5 (or 0/0)

Pretty cool- especially the smart phone remote control. Those looking for something right now, $58 for 1500 lumens using NPF batteries (no smart phone remote): http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-168-Camcorder-Compatible-Temperature/dp/B00IWT0ZLU/

If you want to talk respect, I think it's a matter of respecting the market and the product, over whether or not you are in a position to be making a good deal on a potential purchase. Yannis, the way you expressed your desire to further lower the cost of these products was negatively perceived because you were coming from a perspective of entitlement and cynicism/pessimism. Is the seller not respecting us by only giving a 10% discount to a bulk order? That is entirely subjective, I do not think it's appropriate to pursue this objectively. People that respect the market for these kind of products aren't outraged because they understand the value of a product like this. They understand how much something like an Iscorama cost, and what the alternatives to it would cost. So when product like the FM is released, that doesn't cost $4k, 2k, 1k, those that understand and respect the market will adhere to any price range that deemed reasonable by the majority. The people in this thread that opted in for the sale obviously believe in the product, and know that for the feature they were getting that would be a really good deal. They believed it because demos were provided and nothing were hidden; no one would buy this product if they didn't see what it was capable of first, and we were given that. I agree that more demo would be nice, and a review from somebody reputable would be excellent. But that's not possible yet and that is why I didn't opt in for the bulk purchase, even while fully understanding the value that this product can bring. I just need to see it in action by someone like Andrew before I could be committed to a product so new by a company that is equally as new. So I see where you are coming from Yannis, I just think you could have expressed it in better terms. I hope my criticism isn't too harsh. I am excited to see you all get your hand on it and share your opinion of it so that I may be making a sure and fully informed purchase in the future. Let put all doubts aside and be excited and hopeful for this piece of technology; let be more optimistic! Cheers,

And he can dance. And if Footloose taught me anything, it's that if you can dance, you can change the world.

I'm sure Channing Tatum is reconsidering his decision after reading this.

Pointless thread. Leave Channing alone. He has muscles and stuff.

I would get a set of Canon FD primes 20 24 28 35 50 85 100 and an RJ speedbooster for Canon FD - micro 4/3 you can shoot a whole movie on them and they are superb lenses , great warm colour tinge superb blacks and very sharp

GH3/4 can record 4hr continuously on a single charge, I think some record 6hr using external battery, no over heating whatsoever

The processes and time and care that are applied to each FF58 are beyond your comprehension. It's a moot point.

There's no point in you buying one anyway. Other than for the obvious point that you'll just try to relist it on ebay for an unrealistic price at a later date like we see from you all the time. The reason you don't like the setup is because their mentality is a 'fair days work for a fair days pay'. Improving the community by actually producing something innovative, niche and well priced. Yours on the other hand just takes from the community by pilfering the market then spamming with ebay adverts of the relisted, usually over priced goods. This activity only serves to inflate prices of anamorphics making them inaccessible to most people here (I imagine you;ve probably sniped most of us here at one point or another). You very rarely contribute anything else. http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ioannis-aix You have multiple copies of lenses for sale meaning your purpose is resale rather than collection or use. From now on I'll be watching your contributions here more closely. As a moderator I'll be hoping to see at least one helpful thread or post from you for every ebay link you post. Hows that? Lets make this place productive and creative rather than a place of business!

Get both. Regular ND's will always be better optically but there are situations where they are not practical. If you're shooting doc work by the time you change filters the shot is gone. With variables, I don't lose the shot. I can live with artifacts and getting the shot as opposed to no artifacts and losing the shot. I set my stop and just ride it up and down. The problem is cheap / bargain variable really suck. Mainly color shift being the problem. Fork out the money and get a decent Heliopan or Tiffen IR Variable ND if it's for paying work. For regular ND's I recommend the Tiffen White Water IR ND set (3,6,9,12,15,18, 21). Colors are clean as a whistle.

I have a Panasonic 14-45 with the external button for OIS (good for Blackmagic) and got it used for $170. The lens feels very plastic-y but the images are very good. I compared to a Nikon 24mm and couldn't see any difference. As for the f-stop. Having the lowest possible is nice, but you shouldn't lose any sleep over it. Except for shallower DOF with a wider lens, you can still use any lens in low light at 3.5, say, you just gain a bit of noise. A little time with noise reduction will probably get you to where you were with 2.8 with no work. Also, lenses that say that they go 2.8 through out the range, for example, are not exact in that--at least not in my experience. Of course, we'll wait for Andy to bring the truth down from mount Panasonic :)

Do you guys know any other lens other than Panasonic 14-50mm F2.8-3.5 OIS that Andrew mentioned in his latest article which has image stabilisation and is not as expensive as the native offerings. Panasonic 12-35 f2.8 and Olympus 12-40 f2.8 look good but they are out of my budget. Still the problem is that four third to micro four third adapters are not very cheap. They are some generic adapters on Ebay but I am not sure how good they are. I don't really care about auto focus but I would like to have image stabilisation. Any suggestion?