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Have a great one, and cheers to my EOSHD friends wherever you are

Happy Christmas Andrew and Happy holidays to all at EOSHD .....I hope Santa brought you all lots of lenses

My biggest moment was this summer when I got my first job as a DP on a childrens feature. It is the second biggest cinema opening of an Icelandic film in Iceland ever hehe(the kids love these guys and this was their 4th movie) Shot with C300 and C100 with Atomos Shogun and Ninja. Canon Cine Primes. Shot this summer, premiered 31. october Sorry, no english subtitles.

My biggest moment was bringing my A7s to Germany to visit my father in law. He had been stricken by Lassa fever in Sierra Leone eight years ago, rushed to Germany, was in a coma for 6 months, and ended up in a wheel chair for eight years. But then my wife and I got word he started walking in September. So we rushed out from Brooklyn to visit him in Germany. I took my A7s to shoot photos and film this amazing development. But I had to be mindful as he's a proud man (a physician and African Chief). I needed something that would be discrete and unobtrusive. With the silent shutter, ability to shoot from the hip and with no lights or flash, the A7s caught some of the most beautiful moments that I couldn't with another camera. Then when I showed him the technology and what it could do he was completely blown away - and of course got up and walked for the camera.

It does not currently desqueeze, but many of the features are not currently enabled, such as playback and custom 3d LUTs. Perhaps desqueeze is on the todo too?

Merry Christmas all!

Merry Christmas

Unfortunate philosophy? Their country was dragged into a Cold War crossfire between communism and capitalism, and they are all basically hostages to a bunch of communist fanatics at the top. Their real Korean culture and philosophy and way of life have been completely suppressed. To call their situation a 'philosophy' is abit like calling Jews' life in concentration camps a philosophy, it's basically blaming the victim. Who the hell taught you to think like this? This shit baffles me...

​I can tell you that ATT was horrible when I had u-verse. Streaming video was always buffering, even when I paid more. I switched to Cox here in San Diego, and haven't had the problem with AppleTV streaming or Vimeo since.

​thanks for your advices and Merry Christmas Max! yes I know that I could use Resolve instead than Lightroom it's for this reason that I wish to learn Resolve. I will try with MOV plus the codecs that Andrew said and I will report some result. the problem is that I aleady did a little test with different codecs and I have got different problems: the exported file had more bightness than the source, another one had "strange colors", another one was not recognised in Premiere CS6 (codec not supported), another one were really so much huge. But this exports were not done with a CDNG, I was working with some HQ jpeg. If I do not try with CDNG RAW files I cannot say if I will have all those problems again. ​to fix the banding problem at its roots on 7D we can not use Lightroom today (I hope one day it will be possible). the only way is to convert the file MLV to CDNGs with the software made by Baldand "mlrawviewer. this guy is a genius! MLV is the "RAW" file that you find in the CF card when you shoot with the 7D. what mlrawviewer does is to "unzip" this file to a lot of DNG (that are cinema dng) in the folder that you need. before exporting with mlrawviewer you can choose the staus of "stripes corretion" the "X" means active. then export in really, few, seconds (depend the size of the MLV file). so it's really fast to fix the stripes correction. it works well, not 100% perfect but it's really usefull. a little magic to my point of view. as soon as I can I will post some shots taken from the Magic Lanter Forum or made by me. the question is: does this awesome invention works with any camera? I do not think so. I believe this magic should work only with the 7D because I believe (not sure about this) Baldand maybe have only this camera. you should speak with him if you want to know more about his algorithm and if it can be done for different camera models. about the noise reduction inside davinci I saw this review. the reviewer say that Neat Video have separate noise reduction for "luminance" and "chrominance" (like Lightroom). Davinci tool have not (only one control for both). he believe the final results in neat video are better. http://mixinglight.com/portfolio/noise-reduction-in-resolve-part-2-neat-video-ofx-plug-in/ Marry Christmas Andrew and thanks a lot for your blog and your help!

4000 euros / 10,000 euros, difference is 2000 euros? EH! Glad it's Sony mount. I can use my Canon glass on it AND my Leica M, PL Cookes, and no mirror to hit the back of my Pentax & Leica R stuff. Shame at change of policy. Really, you didn't. Evidently. I'm happy for you. Do feel free to make your own list. By treating the A7S the wrong way at post exposure & post, you are giving privilege to the 1D C.

Hey OP, Here's something that's not terribly funny (IMHO) as the comedic timing editing is way too off for my tastes --and I'm guessing the director/actors weren't willing to "kill a few babies" In order to land the jokes a lot quicker and just land the gag, but.... you really get a sense on how the lighting is a viable character of the comedy. Plus you get a breakdown tutorial on how they did it. The production is clean and considered. http://nofilmschool.com/2014/03/lighting-tutoral-capture-9-visual-styles-without-moving-your-camera Also, here's the down-est and dirty-ist trick I know to quickly determine if you're lighting your stuff somewhat effectively: Squint super hard while looking at your setup. If your subject(s) details disappear into silhouette you got some work to do. Only works if you're NOT trying to obscure the subject, of course.

Thanks Hans, this is just a quick video I did with the Sankor 16D inside the FM, nothing special. It's just to show that the hack was worth it.

Still preparing the blog post on that. Stay tuned. Learning as I go So far it's only working in 4K 30p on the NX1.

I've already given you one. Expose the A7S with the exposure meter on the LCD so that it is 2 stops over (to the right). Doesn't matter if ISO has to go up. Just do it. Then in the grade, pull the blacks down so they are the same level as the 1D C shot. Even better, use CINE 4 in the picture profile and Cinema, not S-LOG 2, for low light shooting. You're bringing 2 stops under exposed mush out of the very darkest shadows and claiming that it looks bad. No s***! I don't care what happens when you give 1000 chickens free chicken feed from Canon. The 1D C is not free it is $12,000 and the A7S is $2200. That may not matter to you but it does to everyone else.

Yeah the Sigma 20mm F1.8 is good for the price. Not quite as good as the Samyang 24mm F1.4 especially in the corners and it distorts more than the Zeiss Jena 20mm F2.8 (which is around the same price) though. If you don't need the faster aperture get the Zeiss, it's superb. Sharp as hell!

to come back to the main issues of this thread, here are the results of my personal shogun tests and experiences: 1) do i need a shogun? yes, except a too glossy display it seems to be a great, useful, future proof product which is a great companion to every camera even only as a monitor. if they implement 4k60p as promised it could still be in the bags alongside with future camera releases in 5 years. 2) is the shogun better than its competitors like the (new) odyssey? yes, when it comes to shooting good 4k footage. aside from several detail features mainly because it has the only 1080p screen, which is helpful for 4k quality. 3) do i need the shogun for a specific camera? for the a7s it's essential, as otherwise there's no 4k. for the 1DC highly recommended because of all the peaking tools and having a flexible screen, although it doesnt work as a recorder. for the gh4 it could go without as the onboard screen can do a good job, and the internal recording looks the same in real world. for a c500 it technically would not work as a recorder. for all 1080p cameras a cheaper monitor would do it. the only 1080 job that makes sense with the shogun is on red cameras, who have a massive internal sensor crop when shooting 1080. the shogun can finally allow 1080 wide angle shots with a scarlet or epic, although not with red raw codec. 4) which camera is the best companion for the shogun? aside from the price, for lowlight and overall features it would be the canon 1dc. for more than 5k and higher frame rates, it's the red epic (not dragon because of noise and redcode limitations). as the red onboard monitors have some more camera-specific features, i would only use a shogun for wide angle 1080p master recording (see above). 5) which budget camera is best for the shogun? right now sony a7s, because it tops the other competitors with its full frame and lowlight abilities. 6) after buying the shogun, which camera should i buy that i don't have yet? probably none. if sony comes up with a sony a7s2 that has internal stabilization as the new a7, that would be a very useful new feature that tops the old model. canon did show that they can deliver top quality (like with the lowlight abilities of the 1dc already two years ago), it's just a question of time when they make it available in cheaper products. i think it might happen in 2015! two days ago i received the new 100-400 lens, that is so good and sharp that i really think about selling my 200-400/4. it mainly did show that canon now is willing to charge only 1/5th of the price of the same quality they did offer in expensive products two years ago.

Great job Cosimo!...that is the way to do it. Before anyone attempts to go 'Dexter' on their lenses without knowing for sure what to do, please watch the video below. There should be NO reason to take a drill/ hacksaw or lathe to any lens!...the suggestion alone made me feel a bit unwell, so I made a short and basic video explaining how to remove the focus ring/cowl section to get the outside diameter reduced for the FM lens. (I know many here already know this...so bear with me). This removal process will be quite universal to lenses of this type/size (kowa 8z/sankor/elmoscope etc) - I suspect that some variants will fit within 71mm diameter so if you have one of these there will not be an issue. This video shows a non-destructive disassembly method providing care is taken and the correct tools used. Being able to return the anamorphic to it's original condition is the goal here. Cosimo has a great idea of wrapping the uncovered section with plastic wrap before taping into the infinity position - this ensures the helicoid grease will remain contaminant free and enable the lens to be re-assembled if needs be without any ill effects from the disassembly and re-mounting process. This video is meant as a visual guide only...do not attempt yourself if it looks too risky. Edit: As I previously mentioned on the older FM thread, you can make your own version of the FM mounting tube for smaller anamorphics by getting some stock exhaust/ tailpipe tube in the correct diameter (all you need to do is cut it to length). These are made from stainless steel and have a thinner wall thickness than the FM aluminium version - allowing a bit more room inside for an anamorphic to fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321033449391?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I keep wanting my "photo" cameras to suffice as video cameras (Nikon D600, Sony a7, etc.) but I'm with fuzzynormal and Oliver--The Panasonic GH3/GX7/GM1 cameras make shooting video easy and fun (I have the GM1). If everyone could afford it, I'm pretty sure the GM1 would be in every videographer's bag. I didn't think much of it as a sills camera until I acquired a Olympus 17mm/1.8. The way you can easily go from auto to manual focus with the Oly lens is brilliant. I wanted to move away from MFT in 2014, but it didn't happen. I gravitate more and more to the GM1 and I bought a BMPCC again. Here's a video I did in between taking photos with various still cameras around my neck. The GM1s are around $500 now. If you have money to burn, you will not be disappointed. The GM5 has stabilization I think. So if you have even more money to burn I've also enjoyed EOSHD even more this year. So thank you Andrew!!!! This video is the worst that the GM1 will do! Every shot was an afterthought to stills. I have an a6000, and as nice as it is, it is bigger and less video-friendly. Even though Panasonic didn't fix the mechanical shutter on my GM1, I can't get away from that camera!

Strange, - am I the only one with no such issues? My internet is a very stable optic fiber/100 Mbps (tested to 94 Mbps). Maybe that is why Vimeo plays 1080HD without any hiccups. Maybe I´m eating all the bandwidth :-)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oa3tmrtw8d3stn6/Screen Shot 2014-12-22 at 9.43.18 PM.png?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/6v9z5z6eim4kc88/Screen Shot 2014-12-22 at 9.42.56 PM.png?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9rcnqo8etwrcwfh/Screen Shot 2014-12-22 at 9.43.27 PM.png?dl=0 Screenshots and the video should be live below shortly.

​Ouch. It hurts just to read that.

I just tested it on the NX1 and I can get a very nice 4K feed working. Details coming on the blog.

Sadly, I get most of my shooting ideas from used lenses/equipment I find at Goodwill on work breaks. If you have a "thrift" store nearby, or flea-market, take a quick tour. It's all about timing. If you find a lens, you can buy a $20 adapter and shoot with most any camera covered on EOSHD. Here are some of my finds over the past year. Nikon D80 and 18-105 VR zoom $17 (yep, I kid you not), Sekonic Spot Flash meter (first version, good enough for me!) $5, Vivatar 28mm lens $7, a few 50mms, around $10 each, various zooms, same price. A set of 4 Topcors for $95. Tripods for about $5 each. Various lights $5 to $10. Once I have a new/old anything I go out and shoot something with it--a fire hydrant or any family member I can trap Also, there are always very interesting people milling around thrift stores. I'm not a street shooter, but if I was, lots of material there.