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Even at 5K (gbp) this is hardly a camera anyone would buy that doesn't have a business making enough money to justify it's cost. As a business owner getting a new fs7 would be a much better investment for just a bit more and you can write off the tax. It might not take pretty pictures but you'd have a production ready camera. I also never would buy second hand gear for that amount of cash because you don't get any warranty, if something would malfunction repaircost could be a nice surprise as well. I"m also not surprised why the 1dc starts to show up at half the new price, any photoprofessionals I have worked with all work with 5dIII and they often either have a second mark3 or a mark2 as b-cam and videoprofessional rather invest in canon's c-line. Anyone doing professional work and one who needs a 1dc for either photo or video buy's it new, they have to sell it at least with a 50% loss when they replace the camera's because they know no other professional will buy it second hand if it's only 20 to 30% cheaper and no amateur has that amount of cash to spare, they have to go a lot cheaper just to get rid of it, then it might become interesting for a pro who just needs a b-cam backup or a enthusiast amateur but I"m sure there are not many that are willing to cough up 5K GBP for a second hand camera, not if there are alternatives for a lot less money. Ofcourse if you buy this camera just for the sake of putting other camera's up against it you can inform your readers better about the real value of other, much cheaper camera's. You might even be able to add a 26th point to your list of why the a7s/shogun is a better option then the 1dc.

My FS7 review is coming in January if I fit it in. Disclaimer...Sony are lending me one! Why? Because I'm skint now!

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.

​Ok, so this is what I've come up with so far using what bit's I had lying around. Basically this setup allows light-proof and hard linkage between the taking lens and the cinelux rear, yet allows free spinning of the VND in the middle section of the ring assembly. To make it work you need to get a cheap double threaded CPL filter and remove the glass. This give you a rotating double threaded filter (in my example 72mm). The purpose of this empty spinning filter is so that the VND can spin freely when coupled together - without unscrewing itself from the other rings. Then attach a double threaded VND filter (in my case 72mm Cokin 'Slim Pure Harmonie') to the empty CPL filter. The cokin VND has a front female thread of 77mm (other VND's may not have a front thread but this one does) Attach that to a 77-72mm step down ring....Then screw into the FM cinelux 72mm rear thread adapter ring. Once assembled and all rings tightened together properly - it gives a nice VND solution that is sandwiched between adapter rings. In my case I am using taking lenses with a 49mm front thread, but that step down from 72mm can be whatever is needed. The distance between taking lens optic and cinelux rear is just under 30mm - which does not seem to cause any vignette issues when shooting 85mm + with 4:3 ML raw on canon 5DmkIII. It is a work in progress, but does allow your favorite taking lens to be 'hard' attached to the FM lens if you want. So the whole setup can be treated as if a monoblock design. The cool thing is the taking lens can twist into the lens mount as normal, as the linkage to the cinelux will allow rotation. If I were to be using a non-cinelux type anamorphic inside the FM, I suspect a good solution would be to simply have a VND screwed onto the taking lens - with a rubber lens hood attached to the front thread of the VND. This would allow a bit of light-proofing of the join between taking lens and anamorphic rear, without hard linkage or screw fitting of any additional rings.

My income to buy the 1D C came from a mixture of paid projects and EOSHD revenue but definitely wasn't a light decision to take! I do however see it as an investment back into the blog to keep the quality of content to the highest level. I love my blog in that it allows me as an artist to put the time into my own filmmaking on my own terms without having to chase commercial work for every waking hour!! It's very valuable to me and I am very lucky but it is also a MASSIVE amount of work to keep it going. It's always on my mind, never quite drops into the background!

I commissioned RAF Camera to make me a metal focus gear for my FM lens, he's now selling them on his site. I expect to receive mine in a few days (so I'll see if my measurements were correct!) and I'll report back when I've got it up and running...in case others here might be interested in purchasing, here's the link: http://rafcamera.com/en/gear-fm-lens-88-107-32mm I don't have any association with Raf other than me being a happy customer of his for a couple of years...so I'm not getting a discount or kickback for sharing this link - I just thought a few people here might be interested in getting a quality metal gear for their FM lens. I'm sure AnamorphicShop will release their own focus ring in the new year in ABS or metal, but I needed to get one made before then.

Yes, I would definitely take action with Fedex. Call their customer support and/or send emails. Maybe Mindaugas is on a holiday. Don't worry, PayPal should give you a refund if your lens doesn't make it to your doorstep, although I guess that's not what you are really looking for.

​Then get drawn back in. I remember some forums where I just hot headedly stayed away for a couple of days, intending to never return, then after a few days of cooling down period, realized that I was overreacting and it would suck not being able to join in. A forum is a community thing, so the content is what you and others (including Andrew, but not exclusively) make of it. So what it's all about around here for the greater part reflects the user base. If you feel like something's missing... then add to it. And just coming back to the blog and reviews itself, remember, blogs are always opinionated and subjective to a certain degree. What makes a blogger succesful is a very strong own opinion. You can check out CNET Reviews and everything's great about everything and they list you the specs... that's nice and all, but I want someone to really give me their thoughts on it, get to the nitty gritty of it all and backing it up with reasoning why that's how they feel about it in a certain way. This way a blogger earns my trust. If you don't trust someone, well, that's just too bad. If you do trust Andrew, then what's with all the fuzz to begin with? I'm pretty sure nobody wants to see anybody leave. Everyone should be welcome here, even if visions don't align. Listen, I understand you probably have the best intentions and to a certain degree you can always speak your mind freely, but you can't demand something of a person, claiming he has some kind of responsibility to do something, when he in fact does not. Well anyways, you got it out, you got your answer, now just put it behind you. No reason to stop being a part of the community because of that. To end this comment, I'd just like to point you to Andrew's mission statement: If you can identify with that. Then what's the problem here?

I appreciate all the insight from everyone. In the end the I decided to go with the.....GH4! While the LX100 would have served my family needs well (for the most part), I think the GH4 will be a better long-term investment. Plus it really is designed for more intensive video use, where the LX100 is not necessarily optimized for that (i.e. shorter battery life, potential heat issue for extended shooting, short clip length, etc...). I really like the idea that the GH4, with it's longer battery life and "unlimited" video recording length, can basically be setup and forgotten about, say during a long interview or conference. That makes it much more "C100-like" in terms of video usability. Plus with the "dumb adapter" I bought, I can throw on any of my Canon glass. I bought the cheap Panasonic 14-42mm f/3.5 -5.6, mostly to have something with useable OIS. I'll start saving my pennies again and eventually graduate to the Speedbooster, if it becomes necessary. I also bought the EOSHD GH4 Shooter's Guide and look forward to learning all about my new GH4. Thanks again! ***EDIT - I forget to add 96fps, too!

I can see the point if you want to use it in tests, but for 5000 pounds a medium format back like the p45 would add so much more to your gear bag and blow your mind, even if it's only for stills. I hope you can resell it again without much loss after spring.

FYI - There's another one on eBay (in the UK) for £4899 with two batteries here. The 1D C is a camera that has been the source of both great wonder and bafflement for me since it was released but it is time to bring it into the EOSHD family and shoot with it! Read the full article here

Raf is based in Belarus and offers standard or EMS shipping on his products. I hope to have my gear in the next few days and will be happy to confirm compatibility for anyone considering getting one. I'm 99.9% sure I measured everything correctly to get the optimum width for standard follow focus drive gear (to cover the focus travel distance) - so I'll post a mini review as soon as I can, as I'm not sure the gear has yet been confirmed or fitted to an actual FM lens yet! The fotga dp500 setup looks like it will work well, the RAF gear will be a bit of a large beast - but I can see you can space the fotga focus drive gear to accommodate the diameter.

Would be ideal if you'd happen to know someone with a GH4 and/or A7S willing to let you borrow it... but I guess that's not the case? Well... then renting is always a thing of course. Or purchasing and sending back the one you don't like, if the store's policy allows that sorta thing. The E-M1 isn't thát bad. But for video, even though the E-M1 has IBIS, I just find the GH4 to be a much nicer tool. (Expat NL-er. )

The price is a bit steep I think. They go £1300-1600 on Ebay nowadays.

i do Prores in the best quality setting

​ From what you have explained so far, it sounds like a FedEx issue. FedEx will be able to check your shipment and investigate what is going on. You need to talk to a customer service member over the phone who can put out a call to halt and re-direct your shipment to the correct address. The good thing about FedEx is that they a big company who can (and will) investigate and rectify a problem if you tell them all the details. Over the phone is always much better than email. I imagine Mindaugas may possibly be away for the Christmas period?...I would expect anyone to be slower to contact at this time of year, so I would not panic if you are not getting replies. He won't be able to do anything more than you can in relation to your shipment, it's up to FedEx to rectify. I don't know if this is relevant but my FM delivery had a hand written address that my Fedex delivery guy could not read properly. He got the house number wrong so it kept being returned to my local FedEx depot as 'unoccupied address'. By the time I got FedEx on the phone to investigate - the delivery was delayed by almost a week, making my priority shipping not very cost effective. As a complete wild guess - I wonder if the shipment is being rejected by unclear destination address being displayed on the package? I thought it was all done by barcodes and robots these days, but after my delivery delay was due to a short sighted delivery driver - I've learnt not to underestimate human error. A couple of phone calls to FedEx will get to the root of the problem for sure, worst case scenario you will get a refund on the PayPal or credit card payment you made.

Eventually a fork becomes a spork. Convergence Development of the fork forks off.

​Hey! EOSHSD/KODAK for 2015 get those cooks on an arri LT or moviecam...with kodak 5203...AMAZING!!! Wish you and everyone all the best HAPPY NEW YEAR!

First man in space would disagree. ​

​I also think rubber lens hood mounted to the front of a VND would be a good all round solution for the taking lens - as that would provide a seal against light entering the taking lens front and the anamorphic rear. The VND can be spun by twisting the rubber hood. When I get my 77mm rubber lens hood - i'll test that and see if it is better than hard mounting.

This is so impressive! The technical evolution is just staggering. I remember talking to a freind about 8 years ago and he told me about his 4K camera which was cutting edge at that time and I had no idea about what 4K was. The price of that thing and the media was fabulous.

Wow. Moving onto topic.... What do you think to this solution for rigging an Atomos Shogun? http://www.edelkrone.com/eu/5-modula-series It looks really useful and the grip looks pretty neat.

so doug`s comments made you tick? :-) very eager to read about your findings... but please don`t make the same mistake and write everything in the 1dc`s favor just because it was so expensive! :-)

Nothing movie like about this just a get out and shoot and see what it ends up like video. Lots of colorful shots and people walking around. I need more hard drives...lol

Thanks Rudolf! You really can't go wrong with the GH4, or A7S too. They are all good cameras now. I used to have Contax Zeiss, sold all of them. They are very "clinical" in rendering and contrast. I wanted something warmer so I have moved to Russian lenses and now the Tokina 28-70mm. The only way you can find out about lenses is to use them unfortunately.

I've been lurking on this thread and am fairly blown away by what you guys are up to here. We seem to be reaching this convergence point between home movies and classic hollywood imagery. These are hobby shots of girlfriends and kids, but they begin to have that heightened magic of cinema. Great stuff. Think I'll be taking the FM plunge soon myself!

Seems like everybody is still a little hungover from all the eggnog. We get sidetracked and offended by these little things a little easily. Actually Andrew is quite right. Color IS subjective and as long as you end up with something you like and that's what matters, then that's what matters. Atleast, creatively speaking. If you're gonna show it to the whole wide world and want to be as accurate as possible, whatever that means, then what you think 'looks nice' may indeed not be all that likeable to your general targeted audience. My feedback would be the same as the peepz above and prefer the GH4 in this particular 'test'. To my taste the A6000 footage is too bright/washed out, too desaturated/flat, too magenta/blue. In contrast, the GH4 seems a bit too saturated and tends to be rather yellow/orangy. This also isn't much of a test if you don't try to match the footage. Also you have some very mixed lighting going on which doesn't help the cause. Putting your test footage side by side is nice, but now try to make 'em the same. Shoot using comparable settings and profiles, then look at the vectorscope(w/ skintone indicator)/waveform and get 'em as close as you can. Some quick correcting like this youngster kid did in the video shown here will do (2:02+ just so happen that the base video was too yellow as well and the camera to be matched was a little too bright/washed out, much like your A6000 footage was imho). Now compare the two to see which has the slight edge. Because the GH4 and A6000 have to be much closer than I'm seeing back in your video. Anyways, it's not an easy subject and I'm still in the process of figuring this all out myself too. Just keep playing around and try a bunch of stuff. And don't forget. Sometimes we look at our screens too long. Sometimes it helps bringing a loved one or friend in for a 2nd opinion. They might not know much about tech and parameters, but they know what they like! Also just having a good night sleep and look at it with fresh eyes in the morning helps a lot. I know it all too well that I look at something the next day and go 'dear lord, what was I thinking?'. xD

i think if i had the dispensable 5k£ I'd have got one too. in combination with an 85 or 135 L lens. bomb proof dslr that will survive out in the rain all day every day, that also shoots 4k or beautiful 1080p straight to card. if only the viewfinder was an EVF with punch in capability!

Jesus H. Christ! Some of you people on this site need to quit playing with the pussy, and go find some! Quit jerking off on this site and questioning the dude who owns this site about his money, motives, opinions, or who he is in contact with! Nobody but psychos living at home in the basement with mommy would waste this man's time..let alone their own time -asking such asinine questions. I mean, who gives a flying fuck! Whatever Reid wants to do with his money - or how he gets it - is his own goddamn business! I know you are the same pathetic cats who believe that Bush started 9/11, Bigfoot, The Loch Ness Monster, The Wicked Witch of the West, Amelia Earhart is a 117 year old spy for Canon...and Brad never cheated on Jenn with Angelina. ​I've had snippets with Andrew before (all in good fun), but for Christ's sake the dude provides a great free service and quite frankly has saved me (personally speaking) time and cash. For that I thank him. Man, I know the world is a lonely place...but you idiots need to get a job, get a car, get some cash, get a girlfriend, get laid, (yes, miracles can happen)...and get a fucking life!! Leave Reid and his new 1D C alone (did I really just say Canon 1D C!? - yes Virginia, there is a Santa Claus), so he can concentrate on getting out some new video reviews. I need some answers dammitt! Andrew, hopefully you put these dogs to sleep before December 31st, so you can start 2015 with a clean slate man.

One last thought... NX1, GH4 and A7S (4K alternatives to the 1D C) are £1299 and £1899 respectively. Amazing value considering this kind of performance was £10,000 2 years ago!!

In my GH4 book two of the three EOSHD profiles are CineLikeV based not CineLikeD They deliver the best skintones. The CineLikeD one is a reserve one for when you want to sacrifice colour accuracy to save a shot, one that needs the most possible dynamic range, or for a shot that needs grading more than usual. So for those who think CineLikeD gives strange skin tones (well, it's designed to be graded...) try the other two.

Good read that was! Enjoy shooting with it and putting it to the test! Wish someone could borrow you his/her FS7 as well, but looking forward to the shootout nontheless.

Andrews reviews are so personal and so far away from that kind of product advertisment type of reviewing that if he gets anything from manufacturers you would have to congratulate him. If you ever see him talking in a review about how stressful his week has been flying from LA to Bejing and back to London after a short stop in Vancouver to shoot some super secret VIP stuff, and that he has made this review about the new overpriced follow focus in the airport hotel room, and make you feel like that if you buy that shit it will make you suck less, maybe then it will time to ask questions or stop giving a shit.

Cine-D gives strange skin tones. I tested it first some time but I have later shooted with natural profile contrast reduced. Cine-D makes orange parts of skin too yellowish like a person suffering some liver desease.

Nice video Cosimo! I know how to do it, just need to drill the aluminum piece and have a bunch of grub screws to hold the anamorphic. I just wish it was already done. I'm not great with power tools so this is going to be a challenge. Thanks for all your advice; Hans too. Just a little more hard work to make this worth it.

Hi! Some scenes shot at the famous Juhu chowpatty in Mumbai, India using my then recently acquired GH4 and 12-35 lumix lens. Would like some critical feedback. New to the world of movie making, so be critical but not harsh. Thanks!

​as long as a source like EOSHD delivers free content, content about the right topics and also mostly helpful, interesting and constructive details, i don't mind even if the blog owner is making 100 grand a month. there are sources like print magazines that cost 5-10 euros and might be biased more through much bigger financial issues concerning ads. there are guys like laforet or hurlbut who turned their blogs into money making machines and still do only deliver their personal view. other bloggers only come up with interesting things randomly or come from the photo world. this is why among billions of pages on the net, EOSHD is one of the very rare sites where you can get closest to what you really want to know. the amount of time needed to run such a blog might be enourmous, so i think the one who does this job deserves all money and fame he can get. the bigger problem on this planet are lazy passive people, not busy people who create and think.

Hey guys! I stumbled upon this thread while researching tricks and workarounds for single-focusing anamorphic lenses. Initial searches brought me to the "Fokus|Automat" project: Technically very impressive, but bulky and seemingly complicated... and it appears to no longer be in development. Later I found this thread and was inspired to have a try at focusing with a wide-angle adapter. I received my 0.6x Wide Angle Adapter yesterday and came up with this short test. Setup: Blackmagic Pocket + Metabones Speedbooster + Jupiter 85mm f/2 + ISCO UltraStar 1.75x + 77mm Hoya +4 macro filter + 82mm Cavision 0.6x wide angle adapter (More details in video description.) Stretched from 1920x1080 to 3360x1080 in After Effects, then exported at 1920x618. Currently I'm looking for a large (77mm / 82mm) achromatic diopter, which I hope will minimize chromatic aberration and sharpen things up a bit. Thanks for sharing your experiments here!

​This is my test with the GH4 + Tokina 28-70 + Kowa 2x. I think the GH4 has the most potential, and it works even better with 4K photo mode recording. The video was shot 3:2 aspect ratio. I also had a hacked GH2 then a GH3. The GH4 by far is the best of all them.

​up until recently the argument has always been that using a crop sensor on a lens designed for a bigger format is advantageous due to the fact that a crop sensor uses the best portion of the image circle from the lens, cropping away any edge problems that might have been visible on the original larger frame size. However since we're now seeing crop sensors with very high mpx counts it's important to factor in LP/mm ratings (if obtaining the most from your high mpx count is important to you). a really good piece about the value of LP/mm ratings is this:- https://www.schneideroptics.com/pdfs/Digitar.pdf This pdf refers to high resolution medium format lenses vs large format lenses, but the theories translate into our discussion.

Hey, I made this video with my 5D3/magic lantern/Raw for Franklin, a nice french electro-pop musician.