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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/29/2014 in all areas

  1. FYI - There's another one on eBay (in the UK) for £4899 with two batteries here. The 1D C is a camera that has been the source of both great wonder and bafflement for me since it was released but it is time to bring it into the EOSHD family and shoot with it! Read the full article here
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  2. Some of the hacks don't allow playback in-camera which is what freaked you out. It's normal. Recording is fine unless it stops half way through a shot. Go for a hack with a lower bitrate, you'll have to sacrifice quality for reliability. Then give it up and get a GH4 already, it's 2015
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  3. It may be a pain in the neck, but the results are worth it. Good choice. Nothing in the price range looks better in my opinion. Everyone loves to bash canon, but when its all over and done, they look really, really good. And, for me, that's what it's all about. Just wish it had good HFR.
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  4. Sure mate, good luck with the sale. The Nikon taking lens is handy indeed. Regarding the flares, I always preferred multi coated lenses (the new SLR Magic flares horribly in my opinion) but that's just my taste. That Isco 54 was a terrific buy, you can't deny that. The Cinegon I linked is actually single coated, probably like yours although it has a c-mount taking lens. Again, good luck and happy new year!
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  5. 1D C is still a great choice if you work professional in photography & film, reliability & image quality is what you need when you work in all kinds of weather and locations,
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  6. That's about all of "Gone Girl" I want to see I'm sure it's good, but the older I get the more I'd rather watch Fred Astaire dance and make corny jokes. Some of the color work I see in films is great. But it's like zoom lenses in the 70s, many are overdoing it. I feel the same way for steadicams and slider shooting, etc. I just watched "Mozart in the Jungle." I loved it, nice color work, a few mistakes here and there, but otherwise really created a good Carnegie Hall mood, both there and in the apartments. Of course, the show is very well written, directed, acted, edited, etc. So I probably would have enjoyed it shot on an iPhone. I was thinking more about what Cinegain was saying. I think I can answer more of what my problem is. When I go to shoot people, I want to start with a shot where they look natural--in whatever light. I want to do it quickly and confidently. That's why I thought, no matter how bad, the test footage shows me in that situation. I'm setting up a camera, shooting me saying something, and then going to the editor. As many pointed out, the a6000 was washed out. Obviously, my techniques need work. I found that the more I went to camera defaults the better I was. The same with the GH4. Anyway, that's what I'm after, good natural looks even BEFORE I think about mood. I believe many have my problem because many watch the "quick and dirty" pieces I post on Vimeo. It's closer to what they deal with too. I have more footage to post later. Thanks for your images JCS, now that I understand what you're saying I'm ALL EYES!
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  7. ​well... you know my problem... always looking for that little b-cam that can go seamlessly with an alexa, epic or f65... just a couple of frames here, a second there, uncomplicated and reasonably small, one step below an extra epic body from the rental house. by uncomplicated i mean that it should not be a nightmare to expose, with 500 different approaches for every setup, millions of menus to go through, and always haunted by that erie feeling that you forgot to set something way down in the menu jungle. i don`t want to spend every lunch break with the dit :-) shoots are stress and i have a million other things to care about, besides camera set ups, codecs, etc. on the last shoots the a7s worked quite well on car interiors etc. but looking at the setup now with the shogun attached this thing became quite a beast. and the hdmi cable that sticks out 10cm is an accident waiting to happen, especially when you`re not sitting under a tree doing a time lapse of a mushroom. as you can imagine, my cnc is already spinning up for the shogun cage/armour, it needs a proper hdmi safety and is much too weak for a tough shoot. will email you pictures... so for me a used 1dc is quite an attractive option, could use my 058w as a finder, not to mention the tons of L glass that sit on my shelf. but before i make that decision it would be good to know if it is only marginally better or a real advantage over the a7s. and andrew, one more thing, can`t you do a post about hdmi cables? i`ve been searching my ass off for decent ones, even bought the atomos cables (that don`t fit into the a7s cable safety, nor the movcam cage!) plus i never seem to find cables that have the right angle etc.. for the shogun for example the best cable for me would come with a 90 degree angle to the right and then go down directly to the camera. best, wondo
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  8. My ideal monitor would have: Smart phone size 1080p High Brightness (800 NIT or more - no more hoods!) HDMI loop/through (in case you need to go to Paralinx or similar) CFast 4k Recording A hinge that can either attach to camera (Andrew's example) or screw onto 1/4 20. Replaceable internal battery External power options
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  9. Max- watch top movies (including shot on film!) with the same eye! You'll see the same thing re:colors. It's possible to make the top image less yellow/warm (done for mood) and I suspect your monitor has a yellow/green bias. When I notice too much green etc. I recalibrate the monitor (color drifts over time).
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  10. I saw that. MLRawViewer is as nice as everyone raves. I wish the 5D3 was cheaper. I bought an a7 about 4 months ago and it's already dropped 40% in value, or something like that. I expect depreciation but the Sony stuff has been worse that usual. I always want a full-frame for photography. But I love the EVF of the Sony A7s. I'm so torn! @Cinegain, I tried SO HARD to explain what I was doing. I had a feeling that GH4 was producing yellow skin tones. I did a crude test so we had something to look at, no matter how bad, I felt better than nothing and just my "opinion". I tried Andrew's setting AS A STARTING point, nothing else, and was happy I had them, but somehow he felt I was doing this to undermine him. Anyway, the more I've worked with this the more I see what JCS has been talking about for a while (and which I privately thought he was making a mountain out of a molehill)--getting good skin tones bout of H.264 cameras take some real time and effort. I GET IT NOW! (JCS, feel free to say 'I told you so'!) But I think it can be done and others here have given me stuff to help. I've always known that with RAW I can get whatever I want (or as much as any camera can deliver). What interesting to me about the two images above is they perfectly illustrate what I'm saying. The top one is pretty yellow, but looks more natural, the bottom one looks more natural, yet is somehow a bit wrong. It never ends!
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  11. ​Mac users could also try this, http://www.iffmpeg.com/ which is basically a gui for ffmpeg, which is basically all you need to transcode to ProRes.
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  12. If you're shooting bands, definitely the A7S. Clean lowlight is very helpful, the 50Mbps 1080p files are small, high quality, and easy to edit. The A7S with the Sony SEL18200 lens makes a great run & gun / documentary camera using IS, AutoFocus, AutoISO, and if radically changing lighting colors, AutoWB. When used with full frame lenses and all manual settings, shots can look filmic, and if using a tweaked color profile, careful manual white balance, broad-spectrum lighting, and a little post work, skin tones can look decent. For low light, try tweaking PP3 and PP4. For brighter light, try tweaking PP5 & PP6. For very bright, high dynamic range shots, tweak PP7 (start with changing Color Mode from S Gamut to Pro, Rec709, or Cinema). Gammas CINE1, CINE2, and SLOG2 are good for bright light, CINE3, CINE4, REC709 are better for normal or low light, Color Modes Cinema and Rec709 look nice for skin tones, Pro is a decent balance of skin tones and scene colors. I've been using the GH4 mostly for greenscreen and outdoor/nature/landscape in bright light shots only. For up close work, Canon 5D3 (H.264) looks very nice for skin tones, and the softness lends to a filmic look. When more detail and color is desired, 5D3 ML RAW is the best deal available right now. If you also need high quality stills, 5D3 hands down. Looking forward to seeing what Canon does with the 5D4! More A7S skintones (stock PP6 with post work in Premiere Pro CC): http://brightland.com/w/delta-bts/
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  13. I commissioned RAF Camera to make me a metal focus gear for my FM lens, he's now selling them on his site. I expect to receive mine in a few days (so I'll see if my measurements were correct!) and I'll report back when I've got it up and running...in case others here might be interested in purchasing, here's the link: http://rafcamera.com/en/gear-fm-lens-88-107-32mm I don't have any association with Raf other than me being a happy customer of his for a couple of years...so I'm not getting a discount or kickback for sharing this link - I just thought a few people here might be interested in getting a quality metal gear for their FM lens. I'm sure AnamorphicShop will release their own focus ring in the new year in ABS or metal, but I needed to get one made before then.
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  14. ​Haha I can see the temptation already. All the criticisms still stand from my review here, I better re-read it to remind myself of the monster I'm dealing with here. Horrible ergonomics for video!! http://www.eoshd.com/2013/04/the-canon-1d-c-review/ But I've always loved the image...ahh. I can stick two 256GB cards in there to give me 2 hours recording time, then convert the footage over night to ProRes LT to make it more fluid to edit and smaller to archive (300Mbit compared to 500Mbit) The NX1 & GH4 can be a good B-cameras to it... stick the Cookes on them and let them roll for hours in H.265 / H.264 when I really need to shoot excessive amounts of extra b-roll 4K material. The 1D C makes a good A-camera because it has the dynamic range with C-LOG, the 422 internal, 1.3x crop, better low light. The A7S with Shogun is amazing but I wanted that image internally. Sometimes I can't shoot with the Shogun due to rigging reasons, or reasons of stealth or reasons of the bloody Berlin weather wondo, when it's raining all the time But really it was the 'new lower price' and the thought of replacing my 5D Mark III that made it more palatable as a £3200 upgrade. I will have to sell some gear now to fill the hole in my accounts!! Anyone want a D750!?
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  15. Andrew bought a 1DC? No wonder it was so cold in Texas today, hell must've frozen over! Looking forward to seeing what you shoot with it. I've always enjoyed the image out of it
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  16. Flatter doesn't always = nicer tonality especially in an 8bit codec and skin has a lot of gentle variation in tone. Better to have a steeper curve and contrast to bring out the colour. Otherwise it can go a bit muddy and weird. CineV with the black levels brought up is great. CineD is a bit weird for my tastes.
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  17. My FS7 review is coming in January if I fit it in. Disclaimer...Sony are lending me one! Why? Because I'm skint now!
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