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the best camera of 2014 is the one that earnt you some money ......now go and buy some lenses , thats where the 'look' is really created I think some of you are forgetting this is Andrew's list and if he wants a Canon at no1 then so be it , it is his forum after all........

Here's my latest film shot on the Samsung NX1 - let me know your thoughts: Less jello. shooting in 3840 x 2160 seems to my eyes to have less jello. Very minor grade. Contrast -10 Saturation -3 Used Wondershare to convert at -35 contrast. brought into Resolve and did some minor tweaking.

Here is my last music video of JAZill (Lisa Bandy) on GH4 anamorphic, enjoy I've made this music video with Lisa with : GH4 photomode 4K UHD 16/9 25p + 96fps FHD mode, all export in 24p Dciné mode -2 -5 -5 +0 Lumetri cine1 and cine2 color correction on Premiere Qioptiq 35mm f1.6 MeVis-C C-mount lens with baby Hypergonar 1.75x anamorphic lens SLR Magic +0.33 and +1.33 diopters. Manomi +3 diopter from 200 to 1000 asa 4K version downloadable here on Vimeo (for members) or watchable on youtube : youtu.be/kUzIs1dTCyY Lisa Bandy youtube and facebook youtube.com/channel/UCDBqyzLcmVbLOWvps9ViMBA facebook.com/jazilljazill

This is the place to gather ideas for shooting. Gain inspiration here to go out and use all this great gear we have, and don't forget to post your results. General discussion of the filmmaking world is also allowed here - favourite directors, writers, etc.

the days of non reflex off set view finders on film cameras is long gone (my first 16mm film camera had an offet finder !!) and not many people on this forum are getting out tape measures to aquire the exact distance to a subject - which you need to do with a non reflex finder - if you want to do that these day there is Cinetape that everyone sticks on the front of their Alexa or Red , Cinetape is an industry standard . http://www.cinemaelec.com/products/cinetapemeasure.php So I personally dont ever look at focus scale markings as the EVF gets me spot on focus everytime. I have some rehoused Schneider Cinema lens that have no focus scales on them at all - they work just fine So dont worry about imperial or metric - just buy the lens if you like it !

​Thanks for making this. I look forward to more videos shot with the FM.

really nice work man and original

my favorite pancacke 40mm 2.0 a little jem. few people own it, but you can find it in ebay ​ i got mine for 300 dollars http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/885407-REG/Voigtlander_ba229e_40mm_f_2_0_Ultron_SL.html check the reviews here UNBELIEVABLE FOR VIDEO By davidjewels from Miami, FL About Me Pro Photographer So I wanted a lens that helped me reduce the overall size of the Canon 1Dx and decided to choose a pancake lens: namely the Voightlander 40mm f2.0 Ultron. Normally for video I usually take along at least 5 of my Canon primes and I'm forced to use a backpack. Not with the Voightlander! This lens is so amazing, that after a few test videos, where I stood at varying distances from my subject, I realized that it was able to fill the needs of all my other lenses and there was ABSOLUTELY NO DISTORTION even when I got real up and close to the subject. The focus ring is pure heaven to use. And the sharpness is TACK SHARP, so sharp that you might cut your eyes after seeing the video you have shot!!! For stills, just like some of the other reviewers have mentioned, after a little practice you get the hang of it. The lens has focus confirmation blips that light up to confirm focus anyways, and if you magnify the image with the camera you can dial in the PRECISE focus and then take the shot. Obviously it's not going to be as fast as an autofocus lens, but you will get the hang of it eventually: I bought it for video. The construction of the lens is SOLID. It's a very beautiful jewel of a lens to look and hold too.

Focus is amazingly close with those diopters. Really lovely stuff. I liked the cat eyes, the bed shot with bright window in background and the bokeh / face parts best. Inspiring

​You know what's the real scary part? It's a camera that sits below the 5D3's price bracket. I said it back then, the D750 would be a 5D3 killer if people would stop thinking that Canon and pro bodies are so great.

I have always ranked the 1D C's image in the top 10 of all the modern cinema cameras available. This was from nearly 1 year ago - http://www.eoshd.com/2014/02/video-quality-charts-february-2014/ It is a £10,000 camera available now for £5000, in some cases £3500 (James Miller and Dan Chung sold theirs for around that amount). I don't see how this is so upsetting for those browsing for a new camera in 2015. I think it's a total bargain.

Brilliant Mr. Farges Some of your most creative work I think!

Well that depends on how the file was saved. The gamma could of changed if a rec.709 (or Bt.601, same luma different chroma) image was saved in an Srgb color space (or vice versa). Now admittedly, it would be a slight change, but still noticeably visible. (test with a b/w gradient in rec.709 toggled between color spaces) Of course both the 1Dc and A7s files were probably saved using the same procedure, but the s and c log would each respond differently to the gamma curve of the new color space. If this were an issue, one can still adjust each image to get an idea of dynamic range, but not one that's entirely accurate. The accuracy of one's display device and color management is also crucial when making an objective comparison, The difference between what Andrew and others are seeing could be somewhat drastic. Based on the knowledge of Alexis Van Hurkman, Allan Teppur and Charles Poynton, I wouldn't use any monitor without hardware calibration for objective comparison purposes. A great article that briefly explains. http://diglloyd.com/articles/Recommended/display-calibration.html

Here's what Sekonic's DTS software is telling me about my 5D3 (shooting a Sekonic Exposure Target II with my L-478D meter): H264:BMDFilm (4K):BMDFilm (4K) + CineLog LUT:All three stacked: There's more in this thread that I started on DVXuser: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?331363-5D3-Dynamic-Range-Raw-and-H264

​16-50 OSS does not work on A7s, so as the 18-55mm

​That's ironic coming from Kodak

​ In my experience, grading is very consistent with Blackmagic, RED & Canon. I always have a challenge on my hands with GH3 and all Sony cameras. I use the latter by far the most due to the high FPS (music videos) and all are Sony sensors. I have to twiddle every nob imaginable, don't mind much, just more time consuming! Canon and Blackmagic lack the high frame rates so I don't use them no where near as much, although they are much, much easier to grade. This is the reason I've stalled on a new purchase on the "new era."

DigitalEd, are you happy with the dynamic range of the NX1 for video? What turned me off the most was when I put the NX1 besides the Gh2(hacked) and to my eyes the NX1 is clipping before my gh2. And I have been looking at Philip Bloom, Andrew Reid and others post A7s clips and I love what they are getting with that camera. I wouldn't get the shogun, 4K is light years ahead for the icelandic market(the government owned station here, like BBC in Britain, is still broadcasting in SD! Only selected shows on HD(720p) on special channel. I don't need 4K, but I wouldnt say no to a nice camera that shoots 4K internally, as I was thinking with the NX1, My web computer game program is SD on the webpage that hosts it, but we release HD versions on youtube. And for bigger projects with budget, I rent cameras(C300, Red Epic, Alexa etc.) You guys think I'm doing a mistake? I think I want the more cinematic character of the A7s. Please if you guys have any opinions of the matter please feel free to tell me. You can even call me an idiot if you think it's relevant to my returning of the NX1, I wont get offended P.S. Peace and love guys, great forum and great forum guests.

Hans and I thought that it would be nice to have our FM video channel on vimeo. Share as many video as you like here: https://vimeo.com/channels/857722 thanks

After playing with my settings a lot i can now not reproduce the problem have testing it over 2 days just inside the house but i am now not seeing the shift i was seeing. I am using a custom setting with color and sharpness set -5, Framing off, Smart range off , Center focus point, Touch AF on when i want AF so when i touch the screen it locks the focus on that area its faster then Manuel focus and locks it so it will not drift focus then push AFON to release it and touch to refocus on something else taking a bit to get used to but works well. When in Manuel focus i turned off the focus zoom in feature I find that to be more of a pain in then then being help full the focus edge detection works very well in the full screen view so i can see the full area i am shooting.. I am taking the camera with me in just a few and will shoot some outside today and see if it still keeps working right with no up and down changes. Will play with the 120 slow mo today to. I still think the NX1 VS the A7S and GH4 is the better camera for over all video quality just look at the HD quality VS the other two. I do plan to shoot a lot in 4K but not all the time for some basic things just to save HD space. From what i have been reading people saying the A7S has no real SLog i think it is when shooting 4K out into the Shogun and the HD quality is not very good compared to the NX1 HD and the GH4 is not as clean as the NX1 or as detailed of a image and the HD quality it not so good on it compared to the NX1. I think at this point in time we are are the best they can be in this price range but it will get a lot better in the next version of each camera. So what lens do you want to invest in and body. The A7S has no 4k inside recording so add on another 2k and your at $4500 just for the both and 4K recording thats to much for a camera like that. The GH4 i hate the crop size of that not for me so the NX1 is the winner for me and the lens are ok and more should come but use any with a adapter in manual focus. I hope i do not see the exposure shift today as that would leave me with not wanting any of the 3 cameras then i would send it back and just buy a cheep HD camera till the next wave of then come out. Will post back later as to how it worked out.

​DxO doesn't test 'feel' or 'general performance'.... Also, I don't think anyone can just look at color and say: camera A is better than camera B. That just comes down to personal preference and/or image processing, not something like actual bit depth. You can disagree with the 'total' score of DxO, but just click trough to the tab 'measurements' and compare all the details. An article on 'how to read DxO scores' would be helpful for a lot of people though It's important to look further than the total score and decide for yourself what is important for your photography (and photography only, DxO Mark is completely irrelevant for video).