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Well that took a bloody long time! But I've just this minute completed my new reel and site. It's not "announced" until Monday.... social media campaigns etc blah blah. But it's live! Check them here: View my new showreel and website! Some info Each and every image - I shot, lit, edited, graded. A little directing. Very involved in creative ideas. Core crew was mostly 4-5 regular people in these productions (Director, DOP, Production Manager, Spark, Make Up Artist). For the geeks - cameras used are Sony F55, FS7, FS700, RED Epic, GH3, BM Pocket. All images are music videos, but going for commercial/corporate work aggressively into the next year. (and still many music videos). The aim is to have 100% new material for Showreel 2016. Max creativity required. Anyway, if you like it or don't like it, whatever. Just thought I'd share.

I think I might play it safe and go with the Panasonic Lumix G X VARIO 12-35mm, unless there are any other choices that pop up in the next 16 hours. After a bit of reading it seems a better fit: The Sigma is the better lens but that is before an adaptor/booster is added. It is also heavier- I use cheap $15 tripods so they are lightweight for off road and can be thrown away after using in saltwater or mud. I know what you mean about a good tripod head- I had to stick paper in to try and keep it steady at first which was no good; but then figured out how to keep it steady with a better version. The Sigma might not balance on these tripods properly, they are really lightweight and unstable unless you dig them into the ground, which isn't always possible (then it is fill a sandbag time). The panasonic is going to fit, better for travel and seems to be the right price at £460. Will check out more opinions on it later. Anymore more thoughts most welcome

Thanks Aaron, but I just had a thought (like in Batman when he used to say "Robin that plan might just work"): I could get the weather sealed, longer battery, more video controls and future V Log in the behemoth GH4 and get it with the cheap kit lens: 14-42 F3.5-5.6 MKII for a very similar price to the G7 with the 12-35. I know you are supposed to favor glass but it doesn't sound like a terrible lens, for now. At least I will have the proper camera and can upgrade to the 12-35 when I can? GH4 with cheap kit lens (14-42) or G7 with better lens (12-35)? edit: Case closed. I went for the 14-45 which was better reviewed than the 14-42 and the GH f-king 4. Got a G1 in the mix too, no idea if that is any good but it was free with the lens. What a relief, the search is over

How about the Sigma ART 18-35mm f/1.8 w/ Nikon mount and a Chinese R.J., Zhongyi/ZY Optics or eBay, focal reducer/lens turbo?

I have this one. Can be had with various connectors and it also has a regular power outlet so you can use whatever cable you want. It has a regular 1/4" screw to mount on a regular cage, arm, what have you. It can also be bought with clamps. I you zoom in on the left side on the eBay picture you se the second outlet which is a standard power outlet. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blackmagic-BMCC-Camera-Battery-Mount-Plate-Power-Supply-Adapter-For-Sony-BP-U60-/370877762077?pt=UK_Camera_Battery_Grips&hash=item565a098a1d

So I had this camera in my BH cart for weeks ... then opted for a C100 Mk II ... mainly due to the size and concerns about Slog colors. After struggling with the A7s I was not excited about wrestling with Sony color space. Although the 4:4:4 RGB output is truly the selling point. So I drag my CD Odyssey 7Q+ along to get a paltry 4:2:2 Prores HQ out of the C100 Mk II ... not that smaller than the F3. But I get dual pix AF and a color science that I can easily work with.... Still ... a sale of this magnitude makes you want to but it even if it is a bad decision. Bob No I think it is his cat ... and sometimes the better part of discretion is to let sleeping dogs lie..... Discernment and judgment are polar opposites ... pray that I err on the gracious side. Bob

whatsup misterwiggles! since the a7s came out last year i have spent way too much time reading about slog2 and being intimidated by it... because it turns out i didnt need to be...! its p easy to deal with as long as you have some crucial prior knowledge (lol). so in that spirit heres a few Quick Start Tips • the slog2 output of the rx10m2 is very similar (perhaps virtually identical) to the a7s in terms of dynamic range and how it handles color –– so all that info is totally relevant and theres a ton of it out there~! • slog2 has a base iso on these cameras which is your only option: the a7s base is 3200 and the rx10m2 is 800. as you may know the rx10m2 has a built in nd, so that can be handy, but i dont think that its variable in any way, its either "on" or "off". anyway, this base iso thing is something to be aware of: you cant just dial down to iso 200 like with the other picture profiles • as far as color goes, avoiding sgamut entirely may be a good idea. i used the "pro" color settings posted on the previous page as a starting point, and decided to dial down the saturation a tad, the yellow even more, and the magenta just a bit. this has easily produced naturalistic color which doesnt require a lut to make it look halfway normal –– just some curves and saturation to taste. what you want to do with the settings in PP7 (slog2) is up to you of course and depends on the aesthetic of your project~! • slog2 needs to be overexposed on these cameras –– 2-3 stops depending on who you want to listen to –– otherwise its a noisy hot mess. ive gotten great results throughout that range ok!!!! i am not nearly as smart as most of the posters on this board but like i said it took way too much of my life to gather this information so i hope that helps a bit other posters PUHLEASE correct me if i am wrong in any of this or something should be added or something!!! its SO fun youre gonna love it. tbh idk if ive had this much fun shooting since i got my first camera

lol first thing i did

http://vandiemenbroadcast.co.uk/epages/eshop406899.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/eshop406899/Products/7235 EARLY ADOPTERS DISCOUNT OF 5% FOR ORDERS TAKEN DURING JUNE 2015. USE VOUCHER CODE - Isco June Offer - at checkout The Cine Iscorama Anamorphic II can be designed to suit a number of focal length lenses and formats. General Specifications: Static front ring with 77mm front thread. The back thread diameter is typically 58mm at a standard pitch of 0.75mm (filter thread). The front lens cap diameter is 80mm. Once screwed into position the Anamorphic can be aligned and locked. Close Focus is 3ft 7in. End to end focus rotation is around 180 degrees. 1/4" Whitworth threaded hole for support is provided as standard. Support system for 15mm bars at 600mm (apart) is available at extra cost.

I love the 12-35. You'll definitely get more use out of it with a wider angle, OIS, and light weight.

For those of you (like me) that love editing in Vegas, it finally has LUT support ! You can simply download it here : http://vision-color.com/lutplugin/ Havent tested it myself, but will asap. I've always preferred Vegas to Premiere, so this is a huge deal for me.

Nice job. I want to see that puppet video!

As someone else said, you'd be better off getting an a6000 or even a Nikon d5500. They both are cheaper and have better video quality. And the d5500 is really good for stills. The noise level is pretty similar to the a7r (less than a stop of difference) and the detail in the shadows is great (better than the A7 II). Not to mention the better lens selection.

I would really like to know how this works... If I understood correctly this is what happens: I have footage from the GH4, filmed with the specific settings (EOSHD Cinema Profile) that you researched and find best fitting for the LOG profile, which is applied much like a LUT is, which manipulates color so that it more closely resmbles a LOG profile, so you can then put a "real" LUT over it, which works better now, than before where you just had the standard footage out of the GH4. Right? (sorry for the long and confusing sentence)

These normal adapters aren't rocket science. Therefor of course autofocus doesn't work. It doesn't have any electronics. They run you maybe 12 to 15 dollars. I found the Nikon (G) -> M43 solid and reliable. Really can't fault 'em. Solid metal. Ring works fine. No cringing fit on the body or lens (like I had with a SLR Magic lens to my E-M1, guess no such thing as standardized mount). Perhaps I'm the luckiest guy in the world never to have any issues with the cheap stuff I get... maybe they're refering to other mount adapters other than the one in question (maybe Minolta MD to M43, M42 to M43, although all of these work just fine over here). Also, there's always user error and people that like to complain on the internet. You see more frustrated people in need of a place to vent than people being happy and satisfied. Not sure. I have a number of things from Fotga, all but one that's a little iffy perhaps are perfectly fine. But then again, maybe I have a little too realistic expectations and too low standards? The only thing I wouldn't recommend cheaping out on is no name batteries, memory cards and a tripod(head). A lot of other things I do find worth exploring to save some pennies. But up to you, really. If you feel better with more expensive stuff that only has raving reviews, then that's the path for you. Nothing wrong with that either... you just need to whip out the cash or go without it until you can.

Right, I tried the way Hans suggested, with 2 clips. 1) Original clip, but with a lot more saturation added (170%) & a hint of Blue in Blacks/Midtones (to offset Polaroid 600 from FC) - might need a little grain added: PW: colour 2) The closing segment of doc. Lots of S16 grain added (150%): PW: s16

Or some kind of sadist, because here's another test... Enjoy.

Totally. In my opinion there are VERY few flaws with the GH4 now.

Nice to have LUTs working with the GH4. Who needs V-LOG now

Optically there's not much wrong with the cheaper focal reducers, wouldn't call 'em 'poor' performers or 'half assed', there's tons of comparisons online showing you just what they're capable of; but indeed you might get one and run into some blue dot ghosting when pointing directly at a light source with some of these. Also seems to depend on the lens used with it. Not sure if it's a thing that's totally absent on the Metabones. I believe they had some yellow/green lubricant issue themselves and with their Sony mounted adapters some weird side-effects because of the inner coating of the Speedbooster? For myself I couldn't justify the price for the Speedbooster, as in sharpness and rendering the R.J. one doesn't leave me wishing for a whole lot more and haven't really run into any problems. But if you want the absolute best of the best, well, I'm hoping there's a reason the Metabones remain the most popular and priciest. The new Ultra XL with factor 0.64x does seem like a cool option from Metabones. Just get a regular Fotga adapter (no glass, but aperture control ring Nikon -> M43) for the 18-35mm, then widen it up with one of those when needed. With all the crops going on, it's nice to have something going fairly wide.

Here's a quick example - fixing yellow cast of original shot by converting GH4 footage to LOG in Premiere (based on Canon LOG) and applying my 1D C LUT. Forgive my rather crowded LUT folder

I am praying next iPhone shoots LOG too!!!!! ;-DDD

You can but not in 4K, or at least not been able to so far, I have mine set up to capture stills in normal HD you just hold the shutter button and it says capture on the screen, you have to enable it in the menu

I just got one with the slog 4:4:4 upgrade, Berkley top plate, zacuto base plate, rods and Anton Bauer battery plate for just over $2100 shipped.

Wooden Camera has a fairly complete line of products ... This is the high end for the Sony A7 series.... http://woodencamera.com/Sony/Camera-Support-Sony/Sony-A7s-Accessory-Kit-Pro.html but look at their complete listings. Bob

The way I understand it, it would be a great card for the UI and editing part, but you'd need a second one that drives no monitor for computing acceleration. And for that the big gaming cards are better. But as long as you're not trying to render a feature, this shouldn't matter too much. Please, anyone with more insight chime in, I've always tried to wrap my head around this as I haven't had more than a single GFX card, yet.

Absolutely agree. You just take that little thing on a walk and get great video – even handheld. That's why I wanna get rid of my other cameras and get the A7RII as an A-cam, pure convenience. In terms of stills, the RX just isn't enough for me, no night time photography doable with that small sensor and poor assists. Before I thought "hey, you might need this and that and a follow focus and whathaveyou", but I now realize that I will probably always be a one man gig and because of that I wanna stay light and simple above all things. So I need image stabilization and decent AF for times I can't do it manually. And the RX10II just works in these departments.

Buy used. Pick up two A6000s or a couple G7s. Hell, two D5500s or just one D750 would be a much better hybrid setup. The A7R just isn't good enough compared to everything else you can get for the same money.

Personally I would take the GH4 if it were similarly priced to what you would spend on that A7R! It's not a great image.

I'd either get the skylake i7 6700K cpu with h.265 hardware encoding support, or i7 5820K 6 cores haswell E processor for the best bang to performance. Get 2 SSD drives (makes a huge difference) Samsung 850 pro and evo, also cheap 2 TB 7200 RPM HD for storage. 16GB ram or more is good Open CL is bringing faster results with some people, as of now it is getting more support and I'd look into the Radeon R9 390x, or if you require Nvidia skip the latest generation, it doesn't seem to bring any faster encoding and it is still not supported natively by many NLE programs, so research it! Get at least a 750 Watts PSU 80+ Silver, power is neglected by many and causes problems especially with power hungry GPUs while encoding ! If you have a microcenter near you, they usually have bundle deals on the CPU + motherboard. Check Slickdeals for the cheapest prices on SSDs and GPUs also research pcpartpicker

Thanks - that was my (very unexpected) reaction, and why I commented...

Second video is much nicer. Wow. That is one hell of a clean 1080p image going on. Wonder why Canon themselves talked it down?! Clearly they want us to buy the Cinema EOS cameras for video, don't they. Even to the point of them claiming their flagship DSLR has moire... when actually it looks to do far better full frame internal 1080p than the 1D X, 1D C, GH4 and 5D Mark III put together.

It just used the Fine Detail picture style I was using for stills, so basically had a USM ("Un-Sharp Mask", which sharpens the image) applied to it. I was only interested in moire/aliasing so didn't bother with anything else (well, sensible shutter speed). If you actually wanted to shoot movies with it you'd use a different profile... This one is hand-held and with the Neutral Picture Style (91MB, untweaked Picture Style - so can be better, note my total video shooting with the camera is these moire tests)... https://vimeo.com/136118235 (Oh and remember the video shown on Vimeo is 720p and you need to download the 1080p version.) It still completely destroys my GH3 and GH4 for moire/aliasing when shooting 1080p... please note this was my entire point. I am very impressed over this single item though. Bonus points for anyone else shooting this scene with their camera-of-choice!!! BTW here's the maximum amount of stuff you can have super-imposed on the screen. You can turn much of it off, pretty much item by item. The settings are as per the video except it had a different picture style - Fine Detail here - and it was shot at f10, which you can probably see was needed from the histograms... (You can also optionally clean the screen, I recommend Spontex micro-fibre cloths.)

Great little side by side, i'd love to see crops and a more detailed comparison. What lens did you use on both ?! Colors on the 1Dc are trully amazing, detail wise seems to be on-par (maybe sharper on the Nx1 ?!), and DR obviously the 1Dc is quite ahead. The Nx1, from what I hear, is closer to the look of RED than canon, i'd love to see how it would stand against a Red Epic or Dragon. But basically you've said it all, for the price, the NX1 is unbeatable and quite a wonderfull machine (mine is still in the box, waiting for canon adapters the pain is real ) Edit : Forget my post, Im reading the full article right now -.-