Leaderboard

hey guys, wanted to share a work with you. its a little portrait about a manufacturer in germany. it was shot on bmcc and gh4 for slowmo have fun!

I won't shoot furniture with anything less than Cooke glass.

Oh ... Password for both is: daysend. Bob

Shot on the C100 Mark II.

https://nikonhacker.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2316&start=210

Good day to all, Just wanted to warn this good community that some people on eBay UK are wise on the fact that quite a few of us are looking for second hand Canon 1DC. We bought 15 days ago a 1DC advertised very convincingly by a "photographer" from Worcester (UK). The 1DC "used a handful of times, primarily for 2 weddings videos in the summer, the shutter count on the camera is 7907." Long story short, after a few emails and a payment via Paypal, we got a tracking number from parcel2go which conveniently was totally non specific (so really, the opposite of a tracking number): no starting point address, no delivery address, no mention of the nature of the parcel, nothing at all... which is exactly what we got at the end of one stressful week. We had to call eBay and Paypal then, got refunded in full TODAY. But we consider this pretty much a miracle. At the end, we have to say that we probably did not verify thoroughly the identity of our seller i.e. his digital footprint, his web site or facebook or LinkedIn nor did we check enough the reality of the transaction. Be careful. Thanks for the good work. Phil ProduThing Ltd

Shooting a BTTF parody today with the M2. Love this camera

I am pretty sure that A7 does output 60p. Also from their advertising: "Capture Full 1920 x 1080 HD uncompressed clean-screen video files with external recording devices via an HDMI connection in 60p and 60i frame rates. Selectable in-camera AVCHD codec frame rates include super-smooth 60p, standard 60i or cinematic 24p, while MP4 codec is also available for smaller files for easier upload to the web."

I can test HD 35mbit 422 vs HD 20mbit 420. Thats the closest I can get in mbps. Unless I go 4k 200mbps from the xc10 vs my smartphone.

This might not be much of a test but at least its the same settings and same distance. Click for high res. Panasonic 4K, Standard PP, f5.6, 1/50, ISO800. Canon 4K, Standard PP, f5.6, 1/59, ISO800.

Maybe it's too obvious, but have you searched archive.org??

Hi, on my blog there are many test on youtube bitrate and quality. Upload your video in 1440p and NOT in 720p or 1080p... 2K resolution boost bitrate x3 in youtube transcoding process! Youtube Best Settings Guide: Uprez your video to 1440p take advantage of the higher bit rate boost My youtube video download test (h264 and Vp9): Test video quality 720p 1080p 1440p 2160p max bitrate which compresses youtube For other resolution: Best Youtube export settings for 720p 1080p 1440p 2160p for 4K 25mbits is ideal... for 2K 20mbits... best h264 encoder is MEGUI: high quality h264 file... for vp9 media encoder with webm premiere plugin

These colors are beautiful. What a solid image. Sheesh.

That shot is pretty easy to achieve with any of the 3-axis gimbals. I took one like that on my first day testing my new Pilotfly H1+ (first day review here): https://youtu.be/Q0k9QmOkYdg?t=37 5-axis sounds great. I was definitely seeing noticeable up/down bob in my first day tests of the Pilotfly, although I hope to smooth it out with some better walking technique and tweaks to the settings. Since I'm looking for small size and weight for traveling personally my ideal handheld stabilizer is a 4-axis with the size and weight of a Pilotfly.

Best to just photograph a perfect circle that has horizontal and vertical lines intersecting at the middle of it from various distances away. Then unsqueeze at say 1.8x, 1.9x and 2x and compare until you see a perfectly round circle, that will be the squeeze factor. I have an Isco Ultra Star that is labelled as 2x but after testing it this way myself I found it to be 1.8x.

Even though I'm not getting my hopes up, this would make me extremely happy if it's true.

I see, Very complex thing. Need perfect distance with rear attachment and prime to the front one or astigmatism comes as hell. There are other way: Fix the taking lens to the rear ANA and make a mechanism that the block move in-out of the camera. This is how anamorphic Lomo primes works. Still very complex because the taking lens only need move a few mm from the sensor (Lomo´s focus ring have a pin that make this little move to the spherical block), and the cylindrical rear lens need move too much. good luck

just to add, keep up contact with your second choice. in case the first one falls through. having a backup for each location has saved our butts quite a few times. most memorably, we were supposed to shoot on coastal bluffs in Malibu. the day before our shoot, they caught on fire. my producer was able to shift everything to the back up location in long beach and we didn't miss a beat.

Just got my Pilotfly H1+ yesterday, here's a sample of some basic walking / running / tracking moving subject footage. Shot on A7R2, 4K @ 25p 1/60, creative style neutral, picture profile off, DRO lv4, no post processing. Definitely seeing some very noticeable bob when walking, and some jitter at the end of my running test, but I'm hoping I can iron this out with some tweaks to the settings. The A7R2 + 55 1.8 is about 75% of the rated weight limit of 1.2kg so I might need to increase the power on the motors.. the above was shot using the default profile 1 that came with the stabilizer. There's a lot to play with in the SimpleBGC software so I'm hoping I can eliminate the bob after some fine-tuning. Overall Pros: - Does a good job stabilizing; pans are also nice and smooth, something I've never been able to do well hand-held - Lots of tweaker controls; pretty sure I can improve my first day's results with some adjustments - Bluetooth support for the SimpleBGC mobile app, so you can tweak every setting and run calibrations while in the field - Inverted mode is very convenient, also feels more stable to hold the rig when up-side down as gravity is helping - Nice and compact, doesn't look too crazy when in public settings - Fairly lightweight for such a powerful device (780g) Overall Cons: - Pretty confusing to set up initially, especially when you get into the software. For example there are 5 different profiles included but it wasn't until I asked on their Facebook group that I fully understood what they did. There's a lot I'm still figuring out about this device. - Battery life - unlike the CAME-TV which has encoders on every motor that reduce battery consumption, the Pilotfly is only rated at 1-2 hrs of battery (depending on size of camera/lens). I bought an external battery charger with DC output so I can charge the Pilotfly (and my camera / phone / etc.) in the field. So far that seems to be working but of course it adds another pound or so to your bag. - Re-balancing for different lenses can be slow since you need to use a mini allen key and re-set a bunch of screws; thankfully my current lenses are somewhat close in weight right now so I can let the motors just compensate for the slightly un-balanced camera (at the cost of even shorter battery life presumably). The Victor studios video linked below shows how if you really need to though you can crank up the motor strength really high and use a very unbalanced lens in a pinch. - Needs some convenience features, like a way to lock the arms down when you're walking around. Also have to be very careful when rotating the arms with the device turned off around as the camera and arms will flop around and it's easy to bang your lens against the screws. I was trying to switch out of inverted mode and I somehow got into a spot where one of the screws was within half a centimeter of hitting the front element of my Zeiss 55mm Overall it's still a pretty great device and I'm pretty stoked at the kinds of shots I can do with it. I had a cheap old manual counterweight gimbal before (Hague MMC) and it wasn't bad but for almost the same weight this is pretty awesome. Videos I found useful when researching / setting up the Pilotfly: Dave Dugdale's Pilotfly vs. CAME-TV Single review CheesyCam Pilotfly vs. Nebula vs. CAME-TV Single comparison Viktor Studios Pilotfly review (in spanish with English subs) Pilotfly's own tutorial on how to switch to inverted mode, swap pitch and roll GH4 user unboxing / setup / test footage

LOL I'm sorry to disappoint you when I can't neglect the benefit of higher bitrate 4:2:2 even if 8-bit...

The Man of the Renaissance is not wrong when says it depends on the priorities, of course. But, tell me where the announced a7SII goes where the a7RII is unable to offer? (that is, apart the 8K stills / 5fps burst as bonus for mere 200 bucks of difference for the 42MP higher density) Full pixel readout in FF? But you have speedbooster option, if so. The same applies on the lowlight department. Noisy higher ISOs mean too little, as the last footage released from the new prototype of Canon easily proves it. Aside the fact the difference is nickel-and-dime. Much because of a newer BSI sensor tech. 399 hybrid phase detection AF points is a way more efficient than only 169 contrast (slower too) detection AF points. Even overheating, once it is not coming from sensor but processing, it can happen a negligible difference if any, with the a7SII, because of downsampling has more impact on the a7RII, but I doubt of importance. Even rolling shutter won't be much better, considering what we've seen from the older sisters. Actually, the apparent advantage for lowlight performance you gain going FF on a7SII, without mention the speedbooster option available shooting with S35 (on a7RII) but not in FF, you'll end to lose it with rolling shutter. Last but not least, the native 800 ISO for S-Log2 on a7RII is much more interesting than 1600 on a7SII (S-Log3), with no mention the PITA of 3200 for the old a7S (S-Log2). And let's not forget the color accuracy issues on such sensor (a7S).

a7RII is a much better deal... :-) You can always use 4:2:2 8-bit going externally in both anyway... ;-) LOL OK, apart my jokes, I think you're safer with the most interesting hybrid offer from Sony...

I just wanted to throw in my two cents of experience with Andrew's Log Converter. I've shot a couple of little jobs with it and it's been absolutely great for me. I transcode my footage to Prores with the LUT applied, and in the latest version of Premiere I use Premiere's 1DC input LUT in the Basic panel (made by the SpeedLooks guys), and choose one of the built in LUTs (I like the Clean Punch HDR) in the Creative panel. That gets me rich, punchy colours, and great skin tones -- really, cleaning up skin tones is by far the best bit about the Log Converter. The other thing I like about the Log Converter is that I can shoot a pretty contrasty look in camera (using Andrew's in camera settings), so I get a good sense of what I'm looking at. I find it difficult to get the mojo going looking a flat flat images, and I love that I can see a punchy image on camera and know that I have a reasonable amount of flexibility in post. Below is a screenshot from a job where I used those settings (her skin is a bit red because she had red brick walls on both sides of her). Of course, Your Mileage May Vary, but for me it's a total winner. Thanks Andrew!

Some information on the settings of this shot can be found in this post, from page 5 onwards. By the author himself. http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?337061-Samsung-NX1-all-sorts-of-tests-imaginable/page5