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At the end I bought the FZ1000 because I was really attracted by the flexibility and overall good quality (both photo and videos). I think the price/performance is really unbeatable and I need the long reach. I will use it for some time so I will better understand what I really miss in my daily use (if I will miss something ). Thank you all for your precious support and advices.

Islamic site? Aljazeera is one of the least biased news corporations worldwide. http://www.democracynow.org/2015/10/12/headlines/nyc_warehouse_workers_launch_campaign_to_unionize_b_h_photo_video https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%26H_Photo_Video Its not about religion. Its about companies abusing workers.

http://america.aljazeera.com/multimedia/2015/10/bh-workers-claim-discrimination-unsafe-standards1.html Looks like I'll have to start buying gear from other places. This is really sad. Also I was unaware of the lawsuit in 2007 settled for millions of dollars.

Update from NY Times: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/14/nyregion/workers-at-bh-photo-video-citing-hazards-move-to-unionize.html

The f35 is so far under the radar. (hence the low $$$) I can remember watching Zacuto's 2011 shoot out mistakenly thinking, wow, the f35 is a dinosaur next to the other cams. I played around some more this week with mine. Did side by sides with the 1dc and fs700 4k (different lenses on each cam, waiting for Trump 58 and 38 with Pl to eos adapter to make a better comparison). To me, the f35 is superior to these cams in almost every possible category except low light, size/weight, hfr, and affordable lens choice. If you were to upscale to 4k, I think there would easily be more true detail than either of the other cams (without artificial sharpening and its side effects). I showed the images to a couple other people after applying matching impulz film luts for each cam (clog,slog2, and slog) with a quick match up in Resolve and asked them to pick their favorite. F35 every time. Its image is one that I perceive to appear similar enough to the look I've been conditioned to associate with film. The f35 has an organic texture, color, grit, depth, and feel to the image and motion that I don't see in today's very clean, high end cmos sensor cams. Again, thanks to old cam prophet from the east for saving me from cmos.

Hi all, Inspired by Tito and Bold and their anamorphic Lens-cyclopedia, I decided to try and make a list of low power diopters useful for anamorphic video. Using the info in this thread and searching on the web, I compiled a list which may be useful for anyone looking for suitable diopters. I've attached the list as PDF. Feel free to comment and/or correct. The list may (hopefully) end up as an add-on to the online Lens-cyclopedia. Diopters.pdf

But you decided to bump an almost 1 month old thread about it shipping because.....

you guys are boycotting apple too right

For my upcoming zero dollar horror short. I learned that making trailers is really hard! What do I add, what do I not add etc. Let me know what you guys think. Also, color is not final, it's not even started! And if someone has some good tips on how to save the footage while she's jogging from being so extremely shaky (as you can see warp stabilizer is really fucking up the image) please let me know! Thanks y'all!

This is a quick test showing flaring of every 50mm (or 'normal' focal length) I have in my arsenal, and in stock at the moment, some have been supplied to me for optical work. I'm not going to go an list each lens in order, but upload this to illustrate how much variation there is between 50mm lenses despite being almost all consisting of 6 elements in 4 groups, or double gauss designs. Though anamorphic lenses are often seen as flare makers I think some of the results here are magical enough to warrant pairing them with anamorphics which don;t have particualy exciting flaring like an MC 'Rama 54, or a cinelux and an FM- just for the defocus and aspect ration alone. with some of these flares from the prime alone, why add more!

Hey Bold, I was thinking about your efforts on modding the B&H and I remembered another way to do it. I stumbled upon this guy selling a so called "single focus anamorphic" which actually is a modded B&H with the branding erased selling for a ridiculous price (it has been discussed on Nick's original thread). Thing is, on the bottom of the listing there is a video illustrating the mechanism of the mod that really attracted my attention. At one point I messaged him to ask about it and he responded that what he did was to have the front focus unit dremeled inside to smooth out the inner thread and insert a rubber O ring to have the unit slide instead of turning. Seems kind of tricky but the end result seems to be a less of a hassle than the polyurethane mold method you are trying (kudos to you for giving it a try, though, it would the most elegant solution if it works). What do you think? Direct link to the video: http://filmhack.ro/portfolio/bh

Yes C - Log raises the blacks ... and if you have underexposed the noise will be more prominent. However when you grade with a decent S curve a lot of that should disappear ... unless you are using the forever prominent milk filter..... C100 and Mk II have a fabulous low noise high iso sensor ... if you underexpose and have to raise the exposure in post you get noise ... but it is not objectionable and most describe it as film like ... since I always shot ISO 25 emulsions I am not sure that I get it.... This camera is great in low light ... and better in good light or lit environs. Everyone has issues with cameras these days ... a bit more technique and the majority of them would be non-issues. Bob

The Pedo Beard

Canon recommends exposing middle grey in c-log at something like 35%, but this camera benefits from ETTR. The image will be cleaner and nicer for sure. Don't be afraid to crank the ISO and do a little denoising in post. I would aim for caucasian skin tones to be at 50-60% on the waveform. If I have to shoot in very low light I just grab the sigma 18-35. All the reception scenes in this wedding video (towards the end) were shot with that at 1.8 and around 2500 ISO. To my eye it was way darker in there than it looks in the footage. https://vimeo.com/124542801

For traveling I just take RX10 II, leave my A7S and GH4 at home lol. After some crazy shooting with primes back in the days I am now a zoom man again. For that price I rather take A7R II ($2699 brand new on ebay) and 35mm f2.8 or 28mm f2.0 lens, consider none of them are small enough to fit the pocket anyway. And if I am really keen to have FF P&S with money I rather spend another extra grand and get the real Leica Q instead. At least they wont release new model every year, plus that 3.6million dot EVF is world ahead of others.

The Rangefinder with Near/Normal ring is a genuine SLR Magic Rangefinder. We have launched the product for sale in Hong Kong only at the moment. It has 72mm rear filter thread and does not work with the SLR Magic Anamorphot 1.33x-50 and 2,0x-50 that well with a step-down ring. Owners of the Anamorphot should look for the 77mm version of the Rangefinder with (Imperial) witness markings.

Kowa for B&H is hands down the best x2 dual focus. You're never going to be able to use a 50mm with an anamorphic on FF. The good news is, using an 85mm with a x2 anamorphic will give you the FOV of a 42mm & a 100mm will give you same FOV of a 50mm (simple maths - you divide the taking lens by 2).

I'm wondering why these charges aren't being handled via the US Federal Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA), or the office of the NY Attorney General (which dictates guidelines regarding shift break and mealtime requirements.) The fact that the United Steelworkers Union is already involved suggests this is more about conventional Big Union pushing its own agenda than it is about anything unique to B&H. As for eBaying your way to a clear conscience: how do you know you're not buying from a homophobic racist in Back-creek County, USA?

IMO, its the consumers that need to learn how it works. They have done it 4 years in a row. But still we have these never ending amount of posts and threads, "When?", "Im angry!", "If its not here by..", bla bla bla It will ship when its done and all there is to do is wait or buy something else. Bumping or starting threads like this wont make shipp any faster or make Blackmagic change their way. Its the price we pay for the best image produced by a CMOS in the world

The only other camera that comes close to the motion is the Ikonscope D16 or the Digital Bolex - but those both have native ASA of 200 - this is 400, which is what I really rate the red epic at and I rate the Red Dragon Highlight filter at 320 ASA - so it's more sensative - but also it has better overall color. The Sony F35 is a damn fine tool and has a meaty-ness to its images due to its super high resolution 8k sensor and true 4:4:4 chroma sampling. It's a real steal on ebay - $7k about for the system - and it's a tank - it works thru everything - extreme heat and cold and you can drop it a ton of times - it's a beast.

I saw it here, it has videos! http://petapixel.com/2015/10/13/bh-slammed-with-accusations-of-mistreatment-and-discrimination/

Hi, The complete licensing is managed by Google through their API. The license is connected to your Google Account and not to your device. This rule is defined by Google. You can use the purchased app on multiple devices, until you are using the same Google Account on them. Please make sure that you have selected the right account (the account where you have purchased the app) in the Play Store while you are downloading and installing the app. This case the multiple accounts should not be a problem. I have tested it and works for me on a Galaxy S6. Please let me know if it can fix your problem. Regarding the slow motion: this is a bit tricky, because these modes usually are not implemented to be reached by camera2 API. This mode is different device-by-device and there is no common way to reach it. The different manufacturers put this option in their own camera app only. Thanks, Gabor

I think the cash settlement was for hundreds of workers, not just one. This is how workers get unionized - to save their own welfares. And conditions at Amazon are pretty bad. Where else to get gear from? Samy's camera, EVSOnline, Adorama, Barndoor Outfitters - there are a ton of places that probably don't force workers to work 17 hours a day with no bathroom breaks.

I'm sad that CCD sensors have fallen by the wayside. They clearly have a magic that seems to evade CMOS sensors, apart from the Alexa. I wish that the Aaton Penelope made it to market with its Dalsa CCD. That looked like an amazing piece of technology, albeit, a bit over-priced.

My panasonic CM1 (1 inch sensor, leica lens) might not match the dof/fov of a full frame sensor but I'd say it's on a par or better than the a7s and an average lens... cm1: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/655/21377397474_9e3223d17e_o.jpg a7s+Hassleblad110/f2: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/487/20243312581_9ab559e2d5_o.jpg

ha, looked up some clips, he seems like a bit of a kook..

Andrew's guide is a great starting point too: http://www.eoshd.com/anamorphic-guide/

Two things: 1) Any AJ/AJA haters just needed to see the word Jew or Jewish once in the story and they'd be off to the races that AJ was targeting a Jewish business. Though I don't necessarily believe the story until someone corroborates it, I actually think it was wise NOT to use either word in the story. 2) The story, again, appears to be about worker abuse, not about a Jewish-run business. I want to stay on topic. Everyone on the internet is getting sidetracked with AJA vs. a Jewish business and Union vs. Non-Union. I do not give a damn about either matter. I care if the business I am giving thousands of dollars to is running a sweatshop. That's what I want to know. I just want this story either backed up with more information or invalidated as not being true.

Shallow or controllable DOF IS quality to me and I bet every cinematographer who ever pointed a camera at anyone One of the interesting aspects of photography is many inventions are created by lone wolfs. So Go Sanveer!!!!! However, you might take some classes in optics, or read some books, before you start taking your phone apart, not that I follow my own advice here Why don't you get a Raspberry PI and the camera module? That's how I'd try out your ideas. https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/camera-module/

Anyone who has spent even 30 seconds in B&H picks up that it's run by Orthodox Jews. To mention that nowhere in the story, whether the New York Times, or Aljazeera makes one question the reporter's competence, if not their eye-sight. Because of the work-ethic of Orthodox Jews, (like closing on Saturday) I can't see how it is not relevant. Also, to add to my previous post. There are probably hundreds of electronic stores in NYC alone. B&H is not successful because of cheap prices only. It's a very well-run store.

Great work TIm! I added a copy of the spreadsheet to the Lens-cylopedia!

This whole story smells fishy. If it is soo horrible, then don't work there. They aren't slaves. The part that made me question them is the stacks of pallets bit... An electronics pallet is probably 5 feet tall, so 3 high sounds like normal practice to me. And then they speak of not being trained... It sounds like union rhetoric. As if B&H, one of the largest camera stores in America is going to allow untrained fork lift drivers barreling around millions of dollars of fragile merchandise.

Hi, I've not access to another 18-35 to test I'm afraid.

Well regarded by you maybe, but not everyone, which is the point. They lost all credibility with me when they were doing all the coverage of the Egyptian uprising. The Muslim Brotherhood was paying and supplying people to do the protests and riots and Aljazeera dutifully helped sell the whole deception.

just saw this from the f35 the other day (I know it's not new, but wow)

Also, for general information, for free, you can check my blog at www.tferradans.com/anamorphic

I only have 4K footage from my LX100 available, searching online for at least 10bit 422 4K and I could do a real test right now. Could upload a screenflow clip jumping between 1080 RAW (bmpcc) and 4K once I get my hands on a clip. EDIT: Found a clip shot with the BMPC 4K, downloading now.

Check out the listing for Sankor 16D in the Lens-cyclopedia for info. If you search these forums for 'Sankor 16D' you will no doubt find a lot of useful info! Redstan is an option, excellent quality but pricey, Jim Chang just posted about his new Rapido Technology products, and I myself have been playing around with finderscope rings. Normally used for telescopes, less precision, but sturdy and affordable if you dig around for a good deal.

Hey. So I've contacted SLR magic, and they confirmed that these units are currently being sold in Hong Kong only. They will come to US and EU 'later this year', supposedly November. They will cost $299 in US, and around that or more in EU. So the one that I've bought is not a copy, but a genuine thing. Rapido, I've just contacted that seller, he told me he has one more item, asme without the marks and is willing to sell it to me for $500 flat. If you really want one I guess we can arrange a deal when he will ship both adapters to me (Ukraine) and I will then send yours to you (assuming you're in LA) via meest express. Or you can pay $100 more and get it from Adorama. It will have imperial markings, and costs $599, without shipping.

An Islamic Site?! AJA is a relatively well regarded news organization, regardless of any biases you may have to where they are headquartered. Also: please search for the word 'Jewish' in that article. (Spoiler: you will not find it, because that's not what the story was about.) The author is American, she's from Massachusetts. Further, from what I've read, the photographer in that story is Jewish himself. I find the story pretty damning, but (a) B&H hasn't responded yet and (b) a second news agency hasn't picked it up -- only folks on photography/videography sites are forwarding/riffing on the original story. It's possible that this is just a muck-raking play to go with the shockingly timely announcement that the B&H workers are unionizing: http://lwcu.org/press-room/press-releases/b-h-photo-warehouse-workers/ ...but it's also entirely possible that B&H runs a sweatshop. I'd like a second story to either corroborate or rebut AJA before I make up my mind. - A

B&H and Adorama, and many other stores, are run by Orthodox Jews. It sounds like the warehouse workers have grim work, but so do most Jewish workers in these stores. They are bused from their communities in Brooklyn and live very spartan lives, which is why these stores succeed (lower prices). You read about "tribes" in the Middle East but don't need to travel there to see one in action. Go to B&H. Then go to Williamsburg, Crown Heights or Borough Park. You won't see a lot of money flowing about. Yet they gather round and protect their own. I find these communities creepy. Then I remind myself Park Avenue is just as creepy in its own way too. There are no easy answers here, like boycotting a store. The truth is, wherever you live, if you weren't born into money getting work is very difficult--especially if you're an immigrant. In that story the only job many of those workers could get was at B&H. Again, believe it or not, B&H doesn't treat its own Jewish workers much better. The difference is that the Jewish employee believes in something more than money. Or maybe they're too scared of raising prices (to pay workers more) and losing their customers to Mormons.

This is what a guy told me over at another forum; "There are two things to install with NVIDIA cards. One is the Web Driver. That will install the NVIDIA driver manager and will provide the BETA driver for MacBook Pro and iMac, as well as GPU support for NVIDIA cards on MacPro. That link is: http://www.nvidia.com/download/driverResults.aspx/92192/en-usThe other is CUDA driver. There's a lot of details on this if you care to read/search, but basically it allows GPU to do "work" that the CPU could do. The CUDA driver just needs to be updated for OS X 10.11. Most people do not do this regularly. That driver link is: http://www.nvidia.com/object/mac-driver-archive.htmlFYI - Adobe supports GPU acceleration and that is usually through CUDA or OpenGL. There is a bug with OpenGL and Adobe right now, so changing to CUDA fixes most of this for video apps. The "Metal" support is another issue entirely..." Hope it helps!

I think its worth doing this going from 5 ft to 3 ft i am just below 3 ft my self. and its not a big complex modification bras are still there alignment is still there its just you cut the bras shorter and you gain more. I wanted to get tokina go get down to 2 to 3 ft. But i now have no really need for tokina now and save 600$

Hey, so this is my first post, I've just entered the whole DIY budget anamorphic scene, I recently managed to get my hands on the 1.5x isco widescreen 2000 for a good price and it's actually a really nice image... But as we all know the focussing (or lack of) is a pain, it has a small throw which you can do with the taking lens but not enough to allow any sort of freedom. Obviously the solution is a rangefinder or fm module but I like to get creative before I empty my pockets. I realise that those expensive solutions are just variable diopters and it seemed odd to me that no one has needed this kind of solution before in the history of focussing lenses (anamorphic or not) so I searched a few different terms and found that something like it does/did exist! variable close up lens - http://ebay.to/1Os2ORH This wouldn't do the job for me but there must be more like it and perhaps with a longer focus throw? Anyone know any more about this or had similar thoughts?

This is way too blue. If you have people in the shot, one common way to grade is to isolate the skin and grade it so they line up along the "skin line" in the vector scope. The interesting fact about skin color is that it always lines up that way regardless of the race, so this procedure always works except for extreme black and white. E.g., here's a simple grade of your original (ungraded) shot adjust just for colors. It may not be what you want, but at least it's adjusted more or less for the skin. Grade.tga

Brilliant cheers for the tips! I'll dive into the madness of old Russian lenses then! Hopefully we will get many tips here about these lenses for future searchers.

I'm definitely doing this edge blackening on the next few days! Great thread, these DIY things are awesome and I miss them more in our community. Thanks for sharing, James!

theres nothing "retro" inherent to the look of 5d3 raw video quite the contrary: it is a unique look which is decidedly contemporary

for me color trumps everything, and the DEEP rich color from 5d3 raw is unparalleled; ive never seen video from ANY camera that matches it in that regard – naturalistic yet amazingly beautiful thats awesome hmcindle that clip looks official. how did you find the reliability of ml on set? any issues to be aware of? assuming its not april fools day that is lol

Set your white balance properly. And - seriously don't shoot Slog if you can't grade it. You're not forced to shoot it - you don't have to shoot it, it's a neat little extra feature the camera has. So don't shoot it if you can't grade it. I just got back from a shoot which was quick turnaround (so no time to grade) - and I shot with Picture Profile off. The footage looks great - the colours are nice, skin tones are fine. Experiment with what works for you and your project(s). When the Alexa came out, people either got their footage graded, or they shot REC709. There were plenty of TV shows at the start shooting REC709 in order for an easier and quicker post/grade process when they first switched to the Alexa.