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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/17/2015 in all areas

  1. Phil A

    Your ideal NX1 Settings

    Wow, the price for the NX1 just dropped again in Switzerland at my favorite vendor. Body only is 629 CHF (which is like 630 $) while it's still double the price in Germany. I'm really considering to go buy one even if the system might be soon announced dead, that price is so ridiculous. I'd probably adapt my Nikon glass and be happy. Edit: Took me 44min of consideration and convincing the gf that there is massive reasons why I totally have to buy it. Now the 5 to 7 day wait for delivery starts... Monday I'll get my SmallHD 501 to play... looks like this year Christmas will be busy.
    3 points
  2. Heres some before and after, so you can understand how i've been exposing. These were with the grade on top, without further tweak, ill reduce the yellow/orange sat. and correct the color balance. On both, I pulled either the exposure or the shadows up a bit. (this ballroom reminded me of titanic !) As you can see, they're just slightly underexposed to avoid the clipping.
    3 points
  3. The 5dsr 1080p/24 footage looks noticeably better than 5d3 non-raw footage IMO. Nice and detailed; clean. Shot some last night and the good 'old Canon colors are there. The AF in video mode works better than I thought it would. Not quite to the level of the 70d's dual pixel AF, but much better than not having it. Very impressed with the still image quality of the 5dsr so far. I've tried it with the Sigma 50 1.4 art, the 35 F/2 IS, the 70-200 II and the 16-35 F/4 IS. All look great. ...which annoys me why Canon didn't include 1080p60 on this camera.
    2 points
  4. Wow such great response I too was impressed, this is my fav grading so far, its quite filmic, with enough punch, it looks quite good when playing ! I used Gamma DR with the settings above. I do underexpose, not by a lot, but just enough to save all the highlights without having any clipping. I dont look at the metering, I just set my exposure by eye, so I dont know if I do by 1 stop or 2 stops, just make sure you're not clipping those highlights.
    2 points
  5. This looks absolutely PHENOMENAL. Wow. You did an awesome job here. Thank you so much for sharing. This might very well be my favorite look of all the NX1 posts I have seen yet. Amazing stuff! Did you use Gamma DR or Normal Gamma in camera?
    2 points
  6. nx1 could do that imo, if hacked.
    2 points
  7. Heres my settings for the camera on these shots : Saturation -2 // Sharpness - 10 // Contrast - 3 // Master black level 8 // 16-235 // For these frames I used the Canon 50mm f1.8 and Samyang 24mm f1.4. As for the grading, I used no input lut, just the Sunderland (deluts) Lut at 100% // Fade 44 and Sharpen at 18,5 (though I will decrease this) ! As for the curves go, heres an image of how it looks, notice I also lowered a bit of saturation on the yellows and reds : Heres a few more shots with this grading : Some of these will require noise reduction, some are shot at 1080p others at 4k, and I will probably tweak further. I find this grading very versatile, it fits mosty of my shots with little to no tweaking, outside, inside, church with those terrible lights and all that. Hope you guys like it
    2 points
  8. For his upcoming snowy western Tarantino unearthed special cameras and 1.25x anamorphic lenses at Panavision which hadn't seen the light of day since 1965. The film was shot on 65mm film and will get a 'Roadshow' release on Christmas day in amazing 70mm. Read the full article
    1 point
  9. This came up on Vimeo and I was really taken back... incredible area.
    1 point
  10. Could say google 'BMPCC' or 'G7' as well. I mean, there's bound to be good videos shot with anything, really. But yeah. Ok. 2008 was also the year of the Sony F35 and I certainly don't mind that footage either.
    1 point
  11. Do you disagree? Honestly up until a short while ago I was not an NX1 owner... but after all the footage, pictures and reviews of the NX1, I became convinced that it was worth a shot. And now having owned it, I can tell you it's a great camera. Granted it's not perfect... no camera is. But it is an awesome value for money. It's 1080p is better than the 4k of many cameras. And it's 4k is among the clearest that I've seen. Colors are good also. It's amazing that there can even be a debate relative to cameras in a totally different class... that alone should stand as testament to how good a value the NX1 is. Truth be told, you could spend a lot more and still end up with an inferior camera in many ways.
    1 point
  12. You should submit a takedown request under Youtube's More Actions, Report, and then Infringes My Rights. It will automatically disable the video anywhere it is embedded if your request is approved.
    1 point
  13. Funny, threads like will starwars will be rubbish or not millions of answer. When a question like this is asked, no answer. Anyway I spent a full day testing today and here are my conclusions, if this helps other readers: I use Color Final for grading (as a lut importer for Impulz and for basic corrections) in FCPX as well as Filmconvert. For each test I did the best grade I could with Impulz lut and curves, and the best grade I could with Filmconvert. I also tried both at the same time and this is the best sometimes. I did that for multiple shots: StandardAutumn Leaves (use by brandon lee in his nice video) Different Cine settingsSlog 2So Autumn leaves gives the best look out of the box, but is the worst when graded. Cine 2 gamma with Cine color gives EXACTLY the same image as SLOG2 after luts and curves are applied, with less opacity for Cine 2 tunings of course (because it is less flat out of the camera. I am very pleased with the result. The conclusion is: Since Philipp Bloom uses Cine 2 with Cine Color with amazing results, since I confirmed myself I get the absolute same image color as SLOG2 after the tuning and since Cine2 is much easier to work with (no need to push exposure one stop, no need to have 800 iso minimum) my best settings are Cine 2 with Cinema color. On top, Filmconvert has a preset for Cine2 so it works perfectly. If I want to use an impulz slog2 lut it is as easy, I just lower the opacity compared to SLOG2 lut and voila.
    1 point
  14. The Planar I am refering to is the later CFE unit, without the shutter. From my experiences this delivers superb imagine quality at f2.8. It's sharper than all of the 85mm lenses I have for 135 format. it outdoes the zeiss planar 85/1.4 at f2.8 (closed down 2 stops), The modern hy6 Xenotar 80mm/2.8, my sonnar 85/2.8, my oly 85/2 at f2.8, it almost matches the xenotar 80/2 at f2.8. 'Just another lens' it is not! Hence why Hassleblad have ruled supreme in medium format for so long - the 80/2.8 planar is astounding. Infact, I was informed by mart mueller during my research into lenses for FORBES that during development of IMAX 15/70, they went through every available medium format option and the hasselblads were the only ones that met the grade.
    1 point
  15. I've had my A7s for nearly one year now. I still say the GH4 is a better camera in every way but low light performance. Because I hate hours of post processing nothing shot internally with the A7s is as good as the GH4 in good light. I had to buy an Odyssey 7Q+ in order to bring the A7s to life and to record continuously. The 4k DownRes to 1080P30 (even ProRes LT) is many times better than anything internal. The GH4 will record 3 hours continuous on one stock battery. The A7s needs a dummy/external battery and external recorder. The GH4 + three lens and everything I need for a week trip will fit in my smallest bag. The A7s + 28-135 Cine, 4k recorder and external batteries fills my biggest bag for a few hour shoot. I also need a very heavy TriPod. Recently, I "upgraded" to the A7sII. If you shoot hand held, I recommend it for you. I sent mine back and kept the A7s. The 4k internal is not as good as the GH4 internal in good light. Because the 1080P120 is shot in 2.2 crop, it is full of moire at 6400 ISO. I need 8000 ISO in that mode because of the poor conditions I have to shoot in without supplemental light. The GH5 should be announced next month, but what I am wishing for is a CamCorder with A7s or better Sensor.
    1 point
  16. Thank you so much, it really means a lot =) I havent been doing color grading for too long, and the NX1 is my first "pro/enthusiast" camera, I used the Canon 600D for about 1,5 years. I think with the NX1, its a matter of time, you need to get around its quirks, get to know its flaws, and most people just didnt bother to explore it enough. A few pages back (I think it was this topic) we were talking about limiting yourself with gear (lenses), and I think that is the best way to evolve and progress, and the same goes for cameras, I cant afford to buy more than one camera, so when I spend 1500€ on a camera, I need to learn how to come out with the best product I possibly can, because I cant get enough money to buy another camera.
    1 point
  17. I was messing around with 720p raw on the eos-m a few months back, but it just wasn't stable enough for me. For very short work, it is usable but the audio issues are a pain. To use .mlv raw, you would basically get one take with audio and then the camera would freeze up. Very frustrating. I loved the image, but the workflow is tedious especially the pink dots. I believe the 50D has stable full 1080p raw, which is amazing. So, if you can get a work around with audio, then I would go for it. I don't know how well the image matches up with the BMPCC, but the 50d could be a perfect b cam.
    1 point
  18. man, such a huge different from post! I'd like to be such a good colorist as you seem to be! p.s.: yours is, for sure, a pro quality video coming out from NX1.
    1 point
  19. I don't wan to hijack the topic, but regarding the exposure I've read that both the NX1 and GH4 are best used up to ISO800 and only up to 1600 if necessary. But if you have to ETTR the GH4 while you underexpose the NX1, wouldn't that in fact give the NX1 the low light advantage? If you have the same lens parameters regarding f-stop and shutter speed, ETTR-ing one by 1 stop while underexposing the other by 1 stop would give you 2 stops lower ISO on the NX1. Am I doing the math wrong in my head? The screengrabs of Ricardo are mindblowing. Beautiful stylistic grade.
    1 point
  20. Yeah Ricardo, those look beautiful. Really, really good stuff there. Did you use the Custom picture profile? And are you still underexposing?
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Cinegain

    Lenses

    Why do you always post random things non-related to lenses in the lenses topic? Really, I think we said that before, you should have one thread just for ZachGoodwin brainfarts where you can actually just add anything that pops to mind to. Maybe call the topic 'ZachGoodwin presents the 'Dear Diary'-series'. I'd follow that thread. Just try to keep it about lenses here in this one, I'd say...
    1 point
  23. Seems a few wrinkles have developed in the opportunity to view/show the film "Hateful Eight" in 70mm at a Cinerama Dome location in LA. It seems Disney wants Star Wars to be shown instead, during the holiday season.... Quentin Tarantino slams Disney over 'Star Wars' 'extortion' on 'Howard Stern'
    1 point
  24. Yeah, the 717 is pretty legendary. Picked the fluid head up in GH2 times, as recommended on http://www.gh1-hack.info/wiki/ShootingMoviesWithHackOnVeryTightBudget . I think everyone has (had) one, e.g. However, I'm all about lightweight and twistlocks, so I didn't get the video tripod... went ahead and picked up a Velbon Rexi-L and Sirui N-2004. Nice ones. Very affordable as well.
    1 point
  25. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camlink-TPVIDEO1-Pro-Video-Tripod-Double-Pan-and-Tilt-Fluid-Head-Carry-Bag-/400867049618?hash=item5d5589c092:g:xlYAAOSwEeFU5ctf superb, heavy tripod. avail for less than $150 on ebay US I imagine. Just search 'Fluid head tripod' on ebay and you'll see them pop up. I've had one for around 6 years. i had it around 5 months and the rivets died on the spreader. these were easy to drill out with a 4mm drill bit. I then replaced the rivets with some m3 bolts and some locking nuts. if you grab one of these then replace the rivets before they break you'll never look back. - 30mins work to swap the rivets for some stainless m3 bolts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5mm-A2-Stainless-Steel-Machine-Screws-Slotted-Pan-Head-Bolts-/150863410183?var=&hash=item232028f407:m:mgDxTbKl1z2ODx5iv040BHA some m3, 30mm bolts will do it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-Marine-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Nyloc-Nylon-Insert-Locking-Nuts-M3-4-5-6-8-10-12-/360650014234?var=&hash=item53f86a7e1a:m:mO7ApJ-con6PbvWHpFurl-g m3 nylock nuts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-FORM-A-FLAT-WASHERS-TO-FIT-METRIC-BOLTS-SCREWS-M1-6-TO-M30-/150802639052?var=&hash=item231c89a8cc:m:mAdvuPIIKGFCGZAWUgnX8gQ washers. quick release plates are around $10usd. it's got a mini bowl for quick levelling. ps. it takes around 2 months for the head to become truly fluid. at first it might be a bit graggy, but once it's been used a bit it smooths out lovely. so apart from the rivets on the spreader this tripod has nothing to go wrong and is lovely and heavy - perfect for dslr's pps. I forgot to mention, I replaced the rubber feet on mine for some softer rubber feet (i used the type for walking sticks) since the ones on there from the factory were a bit hard and could slide on hard flooring. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walking-Stick-Rubber-Ferrules-Tips-Feet-Stoppers-Black-Choice-of-5-Sizes-/400887863108?var=&hash=item5d56c75744:m:m86f6CfsJQHFUwHkLERgBkQ 13mm should do it. or bigger ones will go over the existing feet.
    1 point
  26. For £150 on a new tripod for regular video use, people would more likely swear at it - rather than swear by it. I'd personally search for used ebay tripod listings for that budget. Broadcast houses often turf out gear that is not needed any more - and it's possible to grab a bargain sometimes on some decent quality Manfrotto or Vinten model from the HDV days. I'd recommend going with a known name rather than the thousands of tempting cheap Chinese no-brand models, as it's always a lucky dip as to what the quality of some of the components are like....and they are often not as lightweight as they appear in pictures (if you are after a lightweight model). Going with a known brand also increases the likelihood of finding spare parts or online help if something ever fails. Saying that, I'm sure people will chime in with good experiences with cheaper Chinese models they have had (E-Image brand for example) - but everyone's needs for durability and payload are different. But there is a reason that camera hire facilities do not rent out these models....they simply ain't built to last, unless you are handy with modifying/ upgrading failed components as they occur.
    1 point
  27. I just bought a Sony PXW-X70 as my main video camera. DSLRs become too bulky and unwieldy for flexible video work. I've tried for a long time to make them work, can't do it. Without moving my hands I now have instance access to record, focus peaking, iris, shutter, gain (ISO), AF/MF, zoom. Better audio controls. Aggressive image stabilization if I need it. 10-bit CODEC. So whatever you get for a main cam, I recommend a C100 or something like it. You can use your other cameras on tripods for long-shots, or other POVs. I too, love a great image (especially RAW-based video), but any image out of focus, with shakes, or at a bad angle, or with bad audio is unusable. In short, what worked for me having fun, standing around, with my DSLR or mirror-less, didn't work when I needed move around.
    1 point
  28. Looks very good ! I love cuban themed works, such a great vibe !
    1 point
  29. hey, glad everyone liked it Ill share my camera settings as well as grading settings and Lut when I get home from work =)
    1 point
  30. This year I've shot 5 interview-based corporate documentaries all by myself. I have a Tascam DR70D, Zoom H4N and Zoom H1s. Out of all these available options, I far prefer the H1s because they are small, simple and easy to deploy. I use wired lavalier mics with them. My experience is that, unless you have a dedicated sound person, you need to simplify as much as possible. The most important thing with the H1s is getting your levels right.
    1 point
  31. jcs

    Weird thing in A7S II

    Yes, normal: the noise reduction takes more CPU/battery.
    1 point
  32. I've lost count at how many family/friends TV sets I've "fixed". Quite recently I walked into a friends house and they were watching the Walking Dead. My first reaction was "why does it look so cheap"? and within 5 seconds I picked up the remote and turned off that awful "Tru Motion" thing. As if by magic, The Walking Dead didn't look cheap anymore - it was looking great. Nobody in the room noticed the difference untilI I switched it to compare. "You are a genius!" they said. Erm... To be honest, it absolutely bamboozles me why the TV manufacturers have this hideous setting on as default. It's as if they are trying to programme our minds to watch things differently. But it's just not right. Like the Hobbit in 48fps... it's horrible. The magic is gone. The magic of natural, seamless 24fps is timeless. It works. It doesn't need altering. The TV manufacturers need to stop.
    1 point
  33. I don't know in your countries how broadcast tv looks. I bought a new 4K 55" panasonic tv here in Italy. I dedicated 10 minutes to cancel any "improvement" to the image from the tv set. But the problem is broadcast, it looks like shit. SD is a seminar on compression artefacts. HD is somehow better (only 5 channels on national TV in Italy and not all the time!). SKY satellite is horrible too. Then I watched one of my videos on YouTube (with the tv app) and it looked wonderful! It's pretty sad that broadcasting is destroying the work of thousand of professionals. I still remember when broadcast was the quality and for the web the bad one!!! Nowadays is the opposite!
    1 point
  34. The Zoom H1's size is awesome!! I too started out with the H1 a few years ago. But even when I got the Tascam DR-60D (for its XLR inputs, and general awesomeness) I still found the Zoom H1 to be very handy for a number of uses: slipping it into the groom's pocket with a lav running into it (as a "wireless" one on the cheap! ha :-P ), or just generally carrying it around with me everywhere as a back up (as I'm mainly a cameraman, but you never know.... especially on these ultra low budget shoots. Soundie might be lacking. Or I might be filming an event and I will pop the H1 downstairs closer to the stage, than where I'm filming from). It has lots of uses! The DR-22 is kinda tempting for its wireless feature, but it seems it is mostly a bit gimmicky for now?! I've pondered buying it sometimes. DR-40 is too bulky for my tastes, plus the more its prices creep up.... the more I'm tempted to say skip this and go straight to a Tascam DR-60D for only a little bit more. So in the end I reckon it is clear: get the Zoom H1! :-D
    1 point
  35. Some temple scenes shot in 4K on a Samsung NX1. Handheld using the Samsung 16-50/2-28. Gamma DR, Contrast -5, Master Black Level +10. Film Convert (Red / Epic X / Redgamma 3 - Fuji Astia 100). FCPX. Music is "Shanghai Dream" by Christopher Ashmore. Some of it turned out OK, but some spots I think I missed focus and other parts came out over exposed. 4K version .... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTV2EnP0YM0
    1 point
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