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There is no "proper way". You can do it anyway you want. You can think of LUTs as the easy way of translating color information. So you can shoot sgamut3 and have an LUT that gets you to sgamut3.cine space or an LUT that gets you from sgamut3.cine to rec709. You can add another LUT on top of the previous to add secondary looks, or you can have just one that combines all the LUTs together. Or you can do all these things manually with color and contrast manipulation but spend a significant amount of time doing it. I agree that people tend to misuse LUTs, but then again color grading is not a trivial task. I find that people misuse/overuse more the slog/sgamut than LUTs... While shooting a wider gamut allows more control of the final image since you can do more translations of color (match very different clips), it can lead to bad & unbalanced results easily and with 8bit codecs things can get messy (banding, plastic looking colors, etc..) very fast. That is why wider gamuts such as sgamut3.cine or log profiles are not always advised. For my type of shooting (documentary run&gun style), Cine4/Cine2 gammas with Cinema/Pro/rec709 gamut with rec709 LUTs added in post, give me the best balance between gradability and quality.

There's an easy way to test whether it is compression / video related or a limitation of 8bit, find a blue sky and shoot an H.264 4K clip of it and an 8bit JPEG. Bet the 8bit JPEG is ok. I think it's more a compression or 6K sensor output to 4K scaling issue.

- pause footage during playback -> capture frame using Fn button. Such a jpg has ISO and shutter speed in EXIF

The big difference is that the 5Diii has no aliasing or moire. The 5Dii has alot. Also I think (someone correct me if wrong) the 5dii doesnt shoot continuous Raw in 1080p.

I was curious if in-camera playback will work with high bitrate hacked video. Andrew mentioned in old article ( http://www.eoshd.com/2014/04/nikon-d800-hacked-50mbits-high-bitrate-recording-option/ ) that D800 was not able to playback its own hacked videos. So I have put Vasile's high bitrate hacked clip to SD card and try to play it in my NX1 ............. and it works without any issues! So now I am curious how high can we go with bitrate to keep playback working :-) BTW - ISO in his clip jumps from 400 (brightest parts) to 1250.

I am really enjoying using the new BMMCC. Black Magic basically fixed everything that was wrong with the original pocket. This was all shot handheld, used two IS lenses, Canon 24-105 and the Canon 35mm f2 IS. I know that this sensor will really shine when you use the Sigma 18-35 and other shallow lenses, but I do think having an IS lens makes the setup incredibly fun to use. Some thoughts: Moire seems improved. (There is one shot in this entire edit that has moire. I shot at around f4-f8 for the whole day.) The battery life seems to be at least 3 times higher than the original pocket. The menu system is incredibly easy to use, despite having less buttons than the original. Using the Small HD 501/LUT preview is really really nice with this camera. I used HOOKs LUT to judge exposure. The grade is just simple three way in Magic Bullet Looks.

This looks familliar to you, Mattias? As per your suggestion I checked out the prices and saw that Rajala was nice 'n reachable from the Central Station. Unfortunately they only had stock in the central warehouse, not actually locally, but they were kind enough to give me brief general directions to FotoKungen (underground green line southerly direction, about 2 mins ride, then ask someone for further). I roughly had an idea where it would be from looking at Google Maps the day before, just I was offline in the city of course, so I had to go by memory, luckily some GPS indication on a general map as well. Had about 19 mins before closing time to get from one shop to the other. I failed to access any wireless internet with about 4 minutes to go, I had no idea where to find them and then it caught my eye! FotoKungen, right there! And they had one! So yeah. Now finally I get to enjoy the feeling of having those sweet Swedish deals! Picked up the G7 for those 3990 SEK. Thanks for the heads up! After Andy's praising words I was really intrigued, but after the double cashback I wasn't very keen on getting one for those hardcore prices they sell 'em for in Central Europe.

Yup, $480 brand new means $300 used in my world. Maximum.

I just got back from a trip to Spain and while there I found myself taking a lot of photos (more than usual) and switching back and forth between photos and videos became really annoying and got me thinking. Is it possible to write a program like focus stacking one that when you push a combination of buttons it pulls up a menu with the following items that would perform the following tasks? 3840x2160 24p - Record the current Shutter speed, aperture, ISO and WB into a file named “photo” on the SD card - Set the video resolution to 3840x2160 24p - Set the shutter speed to 1/50 - Set the ISO and WB to values that are stored in a file named “3840x2160 24p” on the SD card - Enter into video stby mode 1920x1080 120p - Similar as above except with different shutter speed, video resolution and ISO and WB from a file named “1920x1080 120p" Return to photo settings - Check to see if the video resolution is set to UHD or HD and save the ISO and WB setting into files “3840x2160 24p” or “1920x1080 120p” respectfully - Restore the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and WB settings from file “photo” on the SD card. I thinking this program would speed up my process of switching between photos and video and could even include things like different picture profiles for each resolution. What does everyone else think? Is this possible to do using the st and prefman commands and is it even worth doing or is this not going to be useful to anyone but me?

It's really hard to find professional footage for these cameras. Most stuff I've seen is vastly overexposed/underexposed, graded badly, lit badly, shot badly or a combination of these. I remember seeing a short film shot on the Kinemini 4k, and the the image quality was outstanding - like you'd expect from a theatrical feature release. But I can't find it ANYWHERE. Found this on the Kinemini 4k though:

Bitrate isn't going to eliminate the banding. Banding is the result of only having 256 colors per channel on account of the 8-bit color space. A 10-bit color space gives us 1024 colors per channel - that smooths the gradient, and gives you a smooth transition between shades of color (eg., going from lite blue to deep blue in a sky).

More Kinefinity work- all shots on this are with the KineMini (except for sports footage, which was archive stuff)

My Kinefinity is currently in China receiving a mount upgrade. This system has a lot of potential. They're like the inverse of Black Magic. No buzz/hype about them, but they actually deliver.

I am not a publicist, I'm just a netizen, and I do not speak English, I had to use Google translate, or can not communicate with you

What about a custom button (either a physical one or one always on screen) that just brings up the resolution and frame rate menu?

I do not think this is an issue with the NX1. This is more of an issue with having too short of a shutter speed. this is almost inevitable with 120p and even 60p if you are following the 180deg rule.

@gatopardo Martians.

Mountneer, I asked for such a shortcut some weeks ago. I'd like to be able to access thes evideo modes at the press of a button: A) 1080-120-1/250-ntsc-no dis B) Uhd-25-1/50-pal-dis

I do not understand what you mean. The issue you are describing exists with or without this proposed program. If you are in video stby and want to take a photo, you have to half press the shutter to exit video stby then press it again to take a photo. I was not thinking that this program would lock you into video stby mode if that is what you are thinking. Their are two things I am trying to help with. If I am recording a video and want to take a picture I have to change the shutter speed to something more realistic for a photo like 1/100 then set my aperture to suit then possibly change the ISO as well. Similar problem but in reverse for going from photo to video. Also quite often I find myself filming something and then suddenly want to quickly change to 120p to capture something in slow motion and right now I have to go into the menu to change the resolution then change the shutter speed, aperture and ISO to suit witch is quite time consuming. Actually I was just thinking about it and you could instead of storing all the values in files on the SD card and retrieving them you could have the program check the current f-stop, shutter speed and ISO and then calculate the appropriate f-stop and ISO to have the same exposure but with the shutter speed set to 1/50. Agreed, My original preference would be to be able to save the video resolution and PP in the custom mode settings but from what I understand of the hacks up to this point there is no indication that is easily doable. the Program I am proposing seam to me to be relatively straight forward.

None of the rigs convinces me. Particularly this: How's that supposed to be held? Both front handles rest on the potbelly, left hand takes wooden grip (why wood?), right hand squeezes it's way from beneath to operate the absolutely useless follow focus .... The handle needs to be on the right side, the smallHD 501 with sidefinder left. Needs to be a compact unit, like a camcorder.

Interesting. Proves that we can't rely on Sony like Apple with release dates. They seem to have their own release timing with no consistency.

Apparently RX10 III is not meant to be an upgrade of RX10 II, but more of a second option with different lens

Mercer, google "CHDK". I can write programs to run on my p&s

You see, I'll agree it looks interesting, but making the move from interesting to taking out my checkbook are to different things. I'll pass, unless prices become such that it's worth the gamble to me. I suspect this is the sentiment of most people here.

Unlocked shutter would be a great thing. Mainly because I want 1/48 as an option in 24p for a true 180 shutter. 1/50 is close but not the same.

From the decent footage I've seen from the Kinefinity cameras, I think it has one of the best images on the market. These new Terra cameras almost sound perfect, so what's the catch? (yes, they come from China and only have HD Videoshop in Berlin for distribution in Europe). The features look great, but i'm mostly impressed with the weight/size. I'll be keeping an eye on this one.

Not exactly because the kinemini is gigantic compared to a bmpcc.

That price is for the body only, not a shooting package.

Thats right. This table sums it up.

That would be the KiniMINI which has dropped in price to US$2K

Sky's a little pink and the yellows a little neon. Matter of taste I guess. Otherwise, looking quite good I'd say.

This was shot all on Kinemini 4k (except the drone shots). Some pretty weighty grading especially where we had to coax magic hour out of scenes shot at high noon. I would say I pushed the camera pretty well but still had more latitude to give. Lowlight is an area where the camera suffers- shadows can be quite noisy. I am currently upgrading to the KineMOUNT which will allow me to attach a speedbooser (Kinehancer), getting the crop factor down to about 1.15x and adding another stop of light. I am considering grabbing a KineMAX as well, but feel as though while it is a great value camera, my money would be better invested in glass right now. But I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade to a cinema-style camera.

Some results using gamma dr and osiris m31 lut. Would be great if the bitrate could be improved. Dynamic range and banding are the biggest problems in my opinion. And a button to switch quickly between movie resolutions and framerates. will come in real handy!

Problem for me is ignoring the price difference with the c300ii and the added features compared to a c100ii.

I think the OP just wants to remove the shutter limit in video mode which can only go to 1/30, Samsung most likely put it there to prevent people who do not know what they are doing from go below the recommended shutter angle for video. Camera should do just fine if you remove the limit as there is no restriction for video mode regarding shutter speed, its just the amount of times the shutter closes every second, video mode can function even if the shutter is set to BULP mode on some cameras. Low shutter speeds in video mode can help create cool blurry art shots which is probably what the OP is looking for.

Yeah I've loved the look of these guys and always wanted one. Their Golden 3K cineform on the 6K is my dream format to work on and it would allow me to use my Nikon glass on a native mount. Tempted to get a loan and buy two just to rent them out, no one is doing that in east coast USA and a ton of cinematographers I think would be interested in trying them out. Hopefully this new camera pushes the prices of the old one's down.

Always wanted to try their cameras.

They need to stop going after Red and Arri and focus on bringing out something affordable enough so that people will pick one up out of curiosity. That way they can build a reputation. Especially if the new cameras are bang for the buck stars.

I can translate it for you guys. Terra 6K has the same sensor as KineMAX 6k Terra 5K: 5K 60FPS, 4K 100FPS, 3K 150FPS, 2K 200FPS Has option of global shutter, native iso 800 15 stops DR with rolling shutter and dual gain mode 13 stops DR with global shutter The Dual gain feels like a HDR thing? RAW 12bit + ProRes 10bit internal recording, KineLog3, 2.5" SSD About the same size as a 5DIII HDMI out with type A connector (big connector), 3.5mm Mic in SDI and XLR are there as well, it seems like an external module

It would be interesting if they'd bring a BMPCC/BMMCC killer... but I take it, it will be more serious than that. My Chinese is a little rusty, so Imma gonna keep an eye on https://twitter.com/movcam , http://www.newsshooter.com/category/news/ 'n stuff I guess.

Yeah, it's a team effort. You've got to be a crouching tiger, you can't just bounce up 'n down like that and expect tech to compensate for your lack of understanding, skill and finesse. That said. I do believe here the puzzle pieces fall together quite nicely with this one to the point I'd finally be comfortable getting one. I bet you'd be getting nice motion after a single week, opposed to months or more with a traditional mechanical stabilizer. That is... if you're willing to work with the gimbal stabilizer opposed to the mindset where you'd expect it to do the job for you.

Maybe someone will make a control unit for it that attaches to the COM port!

Some new stuff im working on : All videoframes, im thinking of probably starting that stock footage thing sometime near.

Hello. Here's some more DNG's for downloading. There's a mix of evening and dusk shots here with tricky and mixed lighting. Compressed RAW as well. https://johnbrawley.wordpress.com/…/ursa-mini-4-6k-carnival/

Why don't we just ban this fool