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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/2016 in all areas

  1. nx-patch v5.1 rgds
    3 points
  2. give me a shout when you find a lens/sensor that will replicate my leaf afi-ii 10 and a 180mm/2.8 https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7506/26997678725_133cd94b63_o.jpg
    2 points
  3. kinoseed

    4K / 2K MJPEG?

    NX500/NX1 have programmable hardware and in essence you set up the hardware which resized the input for the encoder. We found the registers, but working with them directly is problematic as soon as you update part of the registers stream gets out of sync and drops out (outerbeat gets the credit for that one). Modifying the encoder's resolution can't be effective at all by itself, as no matter how you change it's recording resolution the feeding video will be already downsized. This at least should be quite clear. You can change any resolution to any other (with NX-KS it was available even for the last firmware) as they in fact only shuffle the available resolution, so you don't set anything "real". When it comes to MJPEG, something similar will be much easier achievable by setting IPeriod: 1 (or 0?), thus forcing HEVC with I-frames only. This is something that I shared with the vasile more than a month ago, when there was still some illusion for cooperative work. ; ) My linux skills are far less advanced and takes me more time to figure some of the things, and this was not on my list. cheers
    2 points
  4. Thanks again Vasile and Otto for the great work enjoying my Nx1
    2 points
  5. Except it would actually go more like this Friend: "I need a camera for a commercial shoot tomorrow, what do you recommend?" Me: 'What's the commercial? What's your budget? Are you going to go and buy this camera off the shelf, or can you rent it? What's the plan? Commercial for YouTube or for television? Are you lighting extensively? What are you looking for out of a camera for this job? Will you be grading? Who will be grading it? Studio or location or both? Friend answers questions and I can recommend a camera accordingly. Conversely, if a friend came to me and said 'hey, you know about cameras, what's the best camera for a commercial' (and this has happened exactly like this in the past), I would say 'well it depends on what you're doing, there's no real best camera for a commercial, it depends on so many things - not the least of which is your budget. Tell me more about what you're doing and I can give you a recommendation.'
    2 points
  6. 2 points
  7. Some observations about the Europeans right now... Their engineering base is dwindling and they find it hard to complete on very complex projects. Berlin's new airport. Leica SL's LOG output. They are transitioning to a softer services economy like the UK. This means Hasselblad, like German companies and Leica, are full of marketing people (even though they're a Swedish company - the same applies right across the continent!) It seems from the rumours that they have put a 50MP medium format sensor from Sony in a mirrorless camera, I sincerely hope it is more engineering driven than marketing puff.
    1 point
  8. I'm not talking about math. I'm talking about SOUL. Something our industry is sorely lacking in.
    1 point
  9. Here's the math- where's the error? http://www.josephjamesphotography.com/equivalence/ I replicated with actual test and images, and got the results predicted by the math ( http://brightland.com/w/the-full-frame-look-is-a-myth-heres-how-to-prove-it-for-yourself/ ). If Phase One or Hasselblad sent me a camera and lenses, I'd be happy to shoot equivalence tests against the Canon 1DX II and L-lenses and post the results.
    1 point
  10. Or use a scope and/or properly set monitor.
    1 point
  11. 1. no idea, you should experiment with your card 2. this will require deep interference with di-camera-app. Basically I would need to zombify di-camera-app and make it play my tune. Possible and I am working towards that because I would like to achieve a better BBAF which requires the same type of interference. But definitely not short term and may not even be achievable. NB. This is not a promise and you did not see any time frame above, did you?
    1 point
  12. Atomos uses Sony NP-F batteries or D-Tap or DC-In. My Shogun has an Aluminium Cage. They are VERY cheap to have. It also has locks for the HDMI ports and an extremely stiurdy protection for the XLR in+out and power port. The Flame/Inferno are supposed to have a better case to not need such a thing. The Chris: You left out LUTs for display+output (VERY Handy for a GH4 with V-Log) and that the display is and can be calibrated. I'm planning to use mine as a mobile grading monitor when traveling with a calibratable 17" 10-bit LCD is inpractical. If you are into cheap media for long sessions... try beating a 960GB Sandisk for about 200eur in SD-cards for 4K or gigantic mechanical HDDs for FullHD. If you want to work fast...why copy that SD-card? The Atomos is SATA, just edit from it right away. I'm looking forward to upgrade to a Shogun Flame or Inferno at some point.
    1 point
  13. I prefer the NX1 with the 16-50mm F2-2.8 Not tried the 18-200 but these zooms for APS-C are usually pretty soft 4K needs a good lens. The XC10 would be better in low light, it can do pretty respectable 6400 whereas the NX1 is very noisy indeed at that level RX10 II 4K is pretty soft, I don't rate it. RX10 III much better FZ1000 is a very decent bargain super zoom, this is cheapest way to get a 24-400mm. 28-200mm is the 18-200 on NX1
    1 point
  14. I think these things are more fun when you do the following: - Expose properly - Use an interesting shot to grab peoples attention - Have 3 or more comparison shots, shot using different cameras - Tell us what those cameras were, then allow us to link the shot to the camera - Shoot wide open on the lens so we can tell look the sensor size / optics are giving. The shot you used is flat and doesn't give anything away at all
    1 point
  15. VA 4k is 350 nits, Ninja Flame is 1500. I realize the Flame is $400 more, but peaking, zebras, false color, built in HDR for easy monitoring of Log recording, Prores/DNxHR codecs, custom LUT's, anamorphic desqueeze, and a much, much brighter screen makes it a compelling option. The quality of the VA's panel is the main reason I'm hesitant to buy one. I have a job coming up where an external monitor is needed, so I'm just going to get a recorder to get 4k out of my a7s and use the a7rII as a cutaway cam. The VA is tempting because of price/media, but that screen.
    1 point
  16. Be sure to pick up some tolerance for a lot of inanity. It's an election year here. "Election" means something different to the U.S. culture and its citizens than it does to the rest of the world. Plus, there's more than a bit of political existential hand wringing going on that we need to sort out, so expect even more navel gazing than typical. Going to New York City? Maybe consider a visit to B&H. Not only to consider a purchase, but check it out for social study. (and you can review the EOS thread about that biz from a few month back too) And no, US customs won't care about you carrying a camera. Not sure where you're returning to, but I doubt it would matter there either. I've never had issue bring gear into Europe...save for Spain, but that was decades ago before the EU and we had too much pro cases with us to be inconspicuous.
    1 point
  17. It would be great... of course I cannot spend a lot, because I'm on a budget, but I could spend something at least for a couple of lenses
    1 point
  18. tweak

    Kowa 16-S

    My Elmo has pretty strong flares, but my 8Z blue flare is the strongest, it will flare from anything (and it looks nice unlike some other blue flares from certain brands). I also prefer Metric.
    1 point
  19. Snowfun

    Tractor vs Seed Drill

    Very enjoyable. Not sure why but it reminds me of an encounter I had with a piste (track cutting) machine whilst XC skiing in Saariselka...
    1 point
  20. Mattias Burling

    Lenses

    I buy my from ebay as well. As always one needs to look around and not just at the top of the list. I'm making a "how to buy cheap on eBay" after I've bought the once I have my eyes on
    1 point
  21. Too many cameras missing from this! Where is the BMPCC? Where is the Nikon D750? Where is the JVC LS300? Where is the Sony F3? Where is the Sony FS700? Where is the BMD URSA Mini 4K? Where is the Panasonic G7? Where is the Panasonic GX80? And the list goes on.... only 6 options in a poll is not going to be comprehensive.
    1 point
  22. But a general guide doesn't exist, unless your general guide is a discussion about the pros and cons of each camera for the situation. A poll provides no context. What's best for a feature film? Well, what's your budget? What sort of film? Is it a sci-fi involving green screen and VFX, or a gritty drama? Is it a studio set-up with jibs and dollies and steadicams, or will you be handheld for the whole thing? What's the intended output (i.e. do you need 4k)? Do you have the budget for a lighting and grip package? There's so many variables that it's impossible to say 'Blackmagic Cinema Camera'. The BMCC, for example, is a worse choice for low light than say an A7sII or a 5DIII. So is your film being shot at night without lighting, or on a set with a full lighting setup? The premise of the thread is not a bad one, but it should be as a discussion, not a poll with a definitive, or 'general' answer.
    1 point
  23. Two afocal attachments in series should have significantly better image quality than a single shorter one with the same total squeeze ratio.
    1 point
  24. Still, you can't magnify during recording. I really like the minimalist look of this camera but it annoys me the the grip is not rubberised and that there's hardly anything there. The EVF is nice actually having come from a £3600 camera.. this one's EVF is actually better. But there is hardly any depth at all so in bright sunlight you still need to cover the side of your head to see it. Of course I could get the G7 and these two nitpicks would be solved. Maybe I will.
    1 point
  25. This could be nice!
    1 point
  26. long presses are not supported by Otto's keyscan... How about double click on the button to illuminate top lcd?
    1 point
  27. Personally if I had to choose a ~$1000 1080p camera, I'd go with the F3.
    1 point
  28. Here's a Quick review from someone that owns a GX7, EM5II, GX85 and likes to shoot with manual lenses. The GX85 has great IQ. Love the 4k and the colors are an improvement. Ergos stink. The EVF is a mess and, for lack of a better word, "terrible." I would have thought it couldn't be any worse than the GX7, and I was right. Unfortunately, it's the same. Yikes. On the EM5II, the EVF is so clear and clean that a user can actually use it to find manual focus. It's not viable on my LUMIX cams, and to step backwards from that luxury is a shame. The body grip of the GX85 is not comfortable (or reassuring in one's hand) and it's actually worse than the GX7 in that regard. However, exposure controls are easily accessed and exposure monitoring is impressive. This end-user ergos might not matter to you if you're not shooting a ton of footage, but once you try to get through full day shoots while handholding the GX85, it's something to seriously consider. For now, the GX85 IQ is so superior to a camera like the EM5II, that it's a worthwhile tradeoff. But, since the egos are so much better and nicer in the EM5II, at this point I would not hesitate to return to an Olympus camera once they finally adopt 4K. *sigh* it's never perfect, eh?
    1 point
  29. The lenses I use are the 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 50/1,4, 85/1.7 and 135/2.8 These lenses work as they should. There are only minor problems : - On the 85/1,7 (MC version), the aperture sometimes gets "stuck" when you close it. You just have to rock the DOF preview switch (on the lens) to unblock the aperture. - On the 135/2.8, the aperture is stuck @ 2.8. These aperture problems however can be fixed by removing a millimeter from the aperture pin on the lens, and is quite easy to do. I didn"t do it yet, as I still use my lenses with minolta SLRs and don't want to modify my lenses (yet). I already shot basic tests of the lenses but haven't got to edit yet. Only the 28mm is visible here :
    1 point
  30. Yes I have...the video assist works great with it! You can record simultaneously too. If I record 4k30 in the camera the Video Assist automatically changes to 1080p30. Edit: Added an image of the Video assist in action. Another plus is the focus peaking works better than the internal one.
    1 point
  31. Wouldn't trust my a7s2 as far as I could throw it.
    1 point
  32. Ha! I wish. I think I'd love the look! But my wife wouldn't like the price tag! If I were a solo guy and I could make money at either photography or videography, I'd do it in a heartbeat! Unfortunately, I live in a lost part of France where the equivalent of craigslist rules the imagery world. I have to stick with teaching English- it's what I'm good at. Meanwhile, I need to buy my wife a new car- maybe version 2 of this lens... in 5 years.
    1 point
  33. Matt Kieley

    Lenses

    I'm really damn impressed with the Switar 16mm wide open (f/1.8).
    1 point
  34. Much much more difficult and much more advanced, and F1.4 will give a completely different look & feel to an F2.8 on full frame, plus it's 2 stops brighter. It's not right to go around multiplying apertures by crop factor. An F1.4 on Micro Four Thirds is as a big a hole as an F1.4 on full frame. If this lens is as stunning as the Leica 42.5mm F1.2, I will be buying one. Plus... it IS a Leica you know!? It isn't a Zeiss. It's not a Panasonic. It's not a Canon. Leica designed optics cost a lot of money for a reason. No you can't dude. First of all an image is a combination of camera and lens. Tell me about that full frame sensor camera that shoots 4K for less than $1200. It doesn't exist yet. Then add the cost of the 24mm for full frame. Forget about that mythical full frame 24mm F2.8 you seem to be in awe of... the premium, sharp, low distortion optics are the Zeiss Batis 25mm F2, the Sigma 20mm F1.4 and if you can forgive the lesser sharpness and more distortion, the Canon 24mm F1.4 - all of those push you quite far past 'affordable' when paired with even the cheapest GH4-standard full frame 4K video mirrorless body or DSLR, namely the A7S II or 1D C. The GH5 paired with just two lenses, the Leica 42.5 F1.2 and Leica 12 F1.4 will have astounding image quality, likely bettering the A7S II or A7R II with the Batis 25 and 85 for FAR less money. Nobody complains about the Batis 25mm F2.0 price being $1200-ish and that is the nearest modern competitor to the Leica 12mm F1.4 in terms of image quality and modern build standards & AF. All I ever hear is full frame this, full frame that, it's like people are blinded by the pure simplification of all the arguments regarding image quality down to one spec. Not to mention the fact that if the GH5 has the GX85's in-body 5 axis IBIS, it will be stronger than a full frame camera in that respect too... And if it is Super 35mm you want, put a Speed Booster on it. You could say that for $999 you can get an A6300 but the rolling shutter and overheating really kills it compared to what the impending GH5 will likely be capable of in terms of reliability and rolling shutter less than half of what kind of skew the A6300 produces. Then add to that $999 the cost of a 16mm F1.4 E-mount lens... oh there isn't one... ok the cost of a Speed Booster and full frame Canon 24mm F1.4L, and already you are past the $2000 point... Easily. And that is why Bro... You don't knock this Leica 12.
    1 point
  35. I to had bunch of problems with the Sony A7r II. Menus freezing, White Balance Errors message randomly (super unreliable), corrupt files, it started to chip and screen scratched the first month, weird motion cadence issues, ISO exposure way off all the time, and over heating. I got rid of it after 6 months and went back to my trusty D750 with an external recorder until something in that price range with 4k full frame comes out. I was never more pissed about a camera than this $3200 piece of junk. On paper its super advance and seems like a great deal. But in reality in the field its unreliable.
    1 point
  36. The fact Dual IS was on and you could still get maybe 2 hours continuous is impressive. This camera really has me interested.
    1 point
  37. Only user issue is your reading, I had a iv not a iii
    1 point
  38. Don't kid yourself, these are consumer grade cameras with consumer grade service.
    1 point
  39. If a manufacturer makes a product and instructs me in the proper use of the hardware... and then "the internet" finds out that some bit isn't robust and won't work as advertised (IE "even though the manual says to charge via USB, this will trash the camera over time"), I don't think it's user error - it's manufacturing error. (Even worse is when a manufacturer makes an amazing and robust product and then leaves the market... FU Samsung. What an amazing camera you dropped.)
    1 point
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