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And haven't we come along way with stage lighting, this is what one of the (arguably) best bands in the world could expect in the 70's when they toured in Melbourne or Sydney. Little Feat, Festival Hall, 1976.

+1 IBIS only: good for handheld but mostly static Gimbal: same + walking gimbal + ibis: used it on a RX100, a dream. You can run and get smooth footages. IBIS can't replace a gimbal yet. It's a nice to have though especially when you can't have the gimbal with you.

Doubt it. A gimbal will still be essential for sweeping and moderate moving shots. The combo of gimbal and a powerful IBIS will be excellent.

I've never heard of any fellow film shooter that pours E-6 in the drain... they would be total outcasts in our community. And we can always compare the environmental impact of Chinese camera factories, mountains of "old" digital cameras that quickly gets replaced, trees for their boxes, diesel for the container ships, the batteries, the plants to provide the power, etc. Nothing is good for the environment these days. On Topic!

Here's the big monster video from last months shoot.

Yeah, you made me look into Scandinavian prices some time ago and I noticed funnily enough electronics can be had quite cheap there (just about everything else is pretty much expensive). Even managed to pick up a G7 on the cheap in person just before store closure at FotoKungen, Stockholm (quite late in the day, folks at Rajala didn't have stock but were nice enough to point me in their direction). Over the last few years I must've been in Gothenburg, Stockholm, Helsinki and Oslo countless times... unfortunately those days seem over. I posted about a sick deal on Rajala around Black Friday/Cyber Monday: http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/21128-last-minute-deal-for-swedes-upd-extended/ , but talking to them, they referred me to the Finnish site instead; which of course didn't have any good deals going on, in fact it was more expensive than here locally. fml Not sure, but I think all these stores have a policy not to ship anything elsewhere? See, Cyberphoto seems the same... https://www.cyberphoto.se/leveransvillkor#leveransinformation-utom-sverige . Btw, for fun you should follow the links to the .no and .fi domains and see what happens. See, I am now in the market for a Huawei Mate 9 Pro which has the dual Leica cam set-up. It sells in Central/Western Europe under Porsche Design licence at 1395,- EUR. Yup. That's right, your eyes aren't deceiving you. Luckily you guys up north don't give in to such foolishness, so I've noticed on YouTube that Huawei Denmark, Norway, Sweden & Finland are promoting the Huawei version (earlier it was thought to be China released only). I made accounts at multiple Scandinavian shops... yet all won't allow it to be shipped to your address in e.g. Austria. I mean, I know a guy from Norway and another from Denmark that are bound visit home at some point this or next month and could probably organize me one. But otherwise it's pretty tough luck it seems. For someone who wants to undertake ordering something from abroad, but shops don't send items to your country... there are some forwarding services. I'll name a few: https://www.shipito.com (US -> ..) | http://www.borderlinx.com (US -> ..) | https://www.bpm-lux.com (US/UK/BE/LX/DE/IT/ES -> ..) | https://mailboxde.com (DE -> ..) | http://www.logoix.com (DE -> EU) | http://www.huifkarverzendservice.nl (DE -> NL) | http://www.cssbuy.com (CN -> ..) | http://www.mistertao.com (CN -> ..) | http://www.tenso.com/en/ (JP -> ..) | http://global.rakuten.com/en/ (JP -> ..) | etc. There's also some other type of new and upcoming way to get your deliveries. It's a sort of UBER/Lyft model, so more like a p2p kinda of thing, but instead of being with driver and passenger it's sender and receiver... try it own risk: https://www.parcl.com & http://airnshop.com . Some sites that might be worth checking out for deals: basically the same thing but for the different regions: https://www.prisjakt.nu (Sweden) | https://www.prisjakt.no (Norway) | https://hintaopas.fi (Finland) | https://pricespy.co.uk (UK) | https://pricespy.ie (IE) | https://pagomeno.it (IT) | https://pricespy.co.nz (NZ). There's also: http://www.pricerunner.dk (Denmark) | http://www.pricerunner.co.uk (UK) | http://www.pricerunner.de (DE) | http://www.pricerunner.at (AT) | http://www.pricerunner.fr (FR) . Others: https://www.pepper.com (worldwide deals) | http://geizhals.eu (EU (DE, AT, UK, PL)) | https://tweakers.net/pricewatch (NL) | http://www.voordeelmuis.nl (NL) | https://en.toppreise.ch (Switzerland). Of course sites like Idealo and Kelkoo. Don't forget your local Google Shopping site (e.g. https://www.google.com/shopping | https://www.google.de/shopping | https://www.google.nl/shopping | .. ) either. There are some shops that import stuff from all over the world for cheap and might be able to give you a fair deal, like http://www.eglobalcentral.com . There's also stores in Hong Kong that export stuff, some stores offer customers from certain countries a tax free guarantee, for example: http://www.onestop-digital.com/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=8&currency=EUR&sl=en ('At the moment, this VAT Free guarantee only applies to orders shipped to Australia, Belgium, Canada, France, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, Switzerland, United Kingdom and United States'). My Nikon AI-s 28mm f/2.8 MF came from http://www.aclub.com , initially found them on eBay. You can e-mail them and negotiate a little on the price. No guarantees, but it did fly under the radar with customs. For accessories, a good place to check is always http://www.linkdelight.com , http://www.camfere.com or one of the many other China webshops . Many of which, btw, are behind some eBay stores. So, eBay, right!? It's a great place to roam around (sure many of you have bought something from http://stores.ebay.com/roxsen at some point in time), for example if you need lens adapters, I highly recommend the ones from K&F (Kent & Faith) Concept (listings on eBay usually have the black box with orange accents in them, there's another brand 'Leinox' which is pretty good as well, they're shown with thumbnails of the adapter and a black box with brownish/copper accents). One of my best kept secrets I'll share with you today: http://www.ebay.com/usr/artemstore . If you want a Russian vintage lens, he will hook you up. Somehow he always manages to find NOS (New Old Stock) or special series lenses as well. Such a great source. Btw. I just want to highlight something I found out about eBay. E.g. take a look at this: http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=zedigital&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=lens+adapter&_sacat=0 VS http://www.ebay.at/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=zedigital&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=lens+adapter&_sacat=0 . Same link, just changed the domain extension. The one gets 475 results, the other a mere 175. I usually use http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=putthethingyouwanttofindhere&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15 to increase my chances of finding something, over time I've learned that gets me the best and most understandable results. In this case it comes up with 477 results and... it's English so you understand it: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=zedigital&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=lens+adapter&_sacat=0 . Also try http://aliexpress.com , home of a lot of manufacturers as well (there's an app in your smartphone's app store, a lot can be had with a discount buying through the app). Did you know Aputure runs an offical store there for example? https://aputure.aliexpress.com . Need stuff for your GoPro? Have a look at TELESIN: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/630476 for example. A lot of brands have official stores on Amazon too (which always is a nice place to check, as some of the lightning deals involve camera gear and could get interesting from time to time). Or like Lilliput and Zhong Yi they might even have their own distribution channels, e.g.: http://lilliputdirect.com | http://www.zyoptics.net/purchase-online/ . Also. Don't forget, sometimes just subscribing to a newsletter gets you a nice welcome bonus. Also make sure to hit up a site like https://www.retailmenot.com before you purchase anything, there might be a good discount in it for you. So. Yeah! I'm all for good deals. But we just need to make sure we are able to get it somehow! I'm always keeping my eyes open, I'm a sucker for good deals as my G.A.S. history would show. DISCLAIMER: if you import something from abroad, make sure you know your national regulations and be aware that import duties might apply to your shipment

I often come across deals that I think are really good. Both used and new. Often Im not in the market to buy at the time or its not what Im looking for. So, why not a thread where we tip each other about good deals and discounts. Disclaimer: I have no affiliation, connection or any other reason than feeling like it to why I share this. Recently I tipped the forum about Cyberphoto who are selling a Samsung NX1 + S Zoom + Battery Grip with warranty for a good price. Now its about them again. Yesterday they had an "Evening Deal" for just a few hours. It was 10% off on the E-M1ii. Today its an a6000. My guess this will be a reappearing type of deal. This is the same store that sent out 20% off on the NX1 and GX80 when they where brand new. The G7 was almost down to€200 at one point. So, it could be worth keeping an eye on. www.cyberphoto.se Both times the Evening Deal has been at the very top. To make it easier to spot in the future just look for the word "Kvällskampanj".

In case anyone's interested: Got to play with a Feelworld FW760 7" field monitor, connected to my GX80. It came with the latest software review in which they bumped up the input formats to 4K. The monitor in itself is quite nice, building is average but you totally get what you pay for. The kit came with a coldshoe ballhead support, sunhood mounting frame, sunhood, HDMI cable (mini to regular) and documents. Main features: 4K input support 4 assignable function button for direct access Safe frames, aspect ratio masks Focus peaking Sony NP battery It does what it is supposed to do except for a few quirks that I don't really like: Huge latency on the signal: annoying and very visible, I know it's the monitor beacuse the camera connected to my TV doesn' show the same behaviour. I guess that might be because of the 4K update, the few reviews I saw on the web didn't show any of this latency Signal is intermittent, don't know if it's a cable problem (only got one HDMI micro to regular to test with) or what, but right of the box the first 30 minutes or so it was quite a pain in the ass, then it started acting a bit smoother A few bugs in the software: powered up and the images was so oversharpened it was painful to look at. Dialed down to 20 (from stock 50) and all was good. Problem is as soon as you activate focus peaking and then deactivate it sharpness is back to stock value and you gotta dive into the menu once again. Very annoying. Zebra show some strange behaviour. You can dial them in from 0 to 100 but your changes take place only if you have them activated. If you have zebra off and set them to 70 and turn them on they'd be at their previous (random) value. Makes no sense at all. Feelworld website is probably one of the worst I've ever seen. There's no info on software or firmware or whatever. I looked at their Facebook page and it's worse. I'll keep it for a few days and then make my mind up. It's a tad too big for my tastes, I was looking to build a small and easy to carry around rig so 5" was my choice but I couldn't find any cheap monitor that size. My 2 cents.

Thank you for your input,... just wondering how your 'bazooka' setup look like. Do you have a picture?

I've just had a quick look at this thread, as I've recently bought a Zhiyun Crane and used it on an important music video shoot with the A6500 yesterday with no prior experience or practice. I've had a BeSteady, a Ronin-M and a DJI Osmo RAW. The latest, the Osmo RAW is a great idea but needs a lot of work to justify the price tag. There were too many issues and the movement wasn't that great, although the video quality is stunning in controlled lighting. The Crane is a breath of fresh air. Very high quality, not heavy, easy to set up, long battery life, great gimbal movement, simple and responsive settings. I've only used it for a day and I'd say (for the money / value), it's the best gimbal you can buy right now. Love it.

Like you said, everyone's doing beauty shoots already. Less beautiful doesn't mean less interesting, au contraire even perhaps. It's what separates the artist from the obvious. So good on you!

I think the Leica killed it. It's like a hug VS handshake. The Leica really 'grabs' the subject. Don't know how else to say it.

I use the EF version with my Kowa B&H housed in a Rectilux. performs well and keeps my anamorphic rig from looking like a bazooka.

Sorry for the delay, good to hear you have a solution, if you know anyone with a longer lens or a store that has one, maybe you could please test on a 600 or 800 lens. Here are the images with the 1st version NX-L attached. 5707:Canon 400mm f/2.8 IS L version one, 5708:Sigma 150-600 Sport @150mm, 5709:Sigma 150-600 Sport @600mm, 5710:Tamron 75-300 Vi DC?...mumbo jumbo the latest one @75mm, 5712:Tamron 75-300@100mm, 5713:Tamron 75-300@135mm, 5714:Tamron 75-300@200mm, 5715:Tamron 75-300mm@300mm, 5716:Canon 400mm f/5.6 L. 5722:Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art glassless adapter, 5723:Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art with NX-L Focus is on front edge of the door, sharpness is retained quite well. Vignetting is much worse in the NX-L shot, but in this case it is in my opinion just from seeing more of the image circle here, though I should double check against a FF body just in case. It's just vignette, not so much like the total corner blackout on the telephotos. Hmm, having trouble uploading my shot of the 400 f/5.6 on the 5DSR. Maybe file/size limit per post, will retry in a separate post.

@Flynn We own only 3 Nikon lenses at the moment (35, 50, 85mm F1.8) and dozens of Canon lenses. My favorite lenses at the moment are two Canon glasses: Canon EF 200mm F2.0 L + the 300mm F2.8 delivering great IQ with the NX1...I'm testing at the moment slow motion (100fps / 1080p) and 4K with the NX1 and the tele lenses...Phantastic IQ but not a realistic scenario to shoot with in real world situations - it's just "image porn" for my own eyes but ZERO content... In about five weeks I will visit a friend and we will make a "detail / sharpness shootout" with the two Canon tele lenses and my NX1 vs. his RED. I am very curious to see differences on his expensive HR display...I know, the RED will wipe the floor with the NX1 (not only in DR), but I'd like to see the differences in detail / sharpness (and colour science OOC) on a 4K timeline... To be honest, I generally prefer the Nikon lenses on the NX1 (just at the moment testing with the Canon teles)...In my eyes, they deliver a more "organic" image than the Canons - probably a matter of personal taste. The Nikon and the Canon lenses my family own blow ALL native Samsung lenses out of the water. I am far away from pixel peeping, cropping images 300% or putting my nose 5cm close to my display and screaming, but there are visible differences...Compared with most Canon and Nikon primes, the Samsung lenses are by far inferiour... For using our Canon and Nikon glasses on the A6300, my mother has to buy an EF to E-Mount adapter (Mark IV) first. And I should get familiar with shooting with this camera before talking about lens preferences or commenting on a6300 IQ... ;-)

I used to shoot in grainy black and white as well as grainy colour film. The main reason for black and white for me was it was better to look at than colour gave. Even now with digital, you will see people convert shots to B&W if they are above what you would normally expect from a camera. Of course, sometimes it is a valid choice on its merits too. Again, I am not saying don't light. I am simply saying if you want or need to add light, do it but equally since photography IS about and needs light, then available light (even if very dim) is also a valid choice. I just picked up my old Pentax Spotmatic. The highest film speed I can set is 1600 and the fastest shutter speed is 1/1000 (actually mine says 1/500 but Pentax was too cheap to use different shutters and on my lower model they didn't mark the 1/1000 setting but it is still there). I would push film a bit sometimes but the grain could be huge. Likewise my old Nikon D50, highest ISO I can set is ISO 1600. My Pentax IST*D was (I thought then) ok at ISO 3200 and the same with other cameras. A Pentax Kx I would use almost to ISO 12800 but really 6400 was about it. I didn't like my Canon 7D over ISO 3200. As each generation gets better, it just means I can use faster shutter speed longer or higher ISOs or slower lenses or stop down lenses more. In a few years, people will be using phones better in low light than an A7s or any current camera. Progress is nice. There would have been very few combinations that you could use to get a shot of a full rock band from next to the stage with film. It is just fun for me and the bands seem to like what I do.

On Dual-IS: Seeing the list of lenses which support it, I know I wouldn't use it, except perhaps for the Leica 42,5 mm. The IBIS, working with all lenses, may or may not be very effective. On AF: I bet it will be disappointing in the first test, right after unboxing. Multiply face detection, pinpoint, seamless 1-area, multi-area, zone-AF, lowlight-AF asf. with the four custom sets and it's parameters. That's so many settings. I think one has to patiently test them, jonpais wrote something like this. It's not relying on automation anymore, it's programming. And one has to know this stuff by heart - or the AF won't do what you expect it to do.

Upon a closer look, you have to admit that there are very many corrections going on under the hood, let me cite a few: Is all this intelligence a good thing? It may be. But the image IS processed on many levels, and it may very well LOOK processed in the end (with artifacts originating from suppressing artifacts in certain circumstances OR just by eliminating everything that makes an image look - excuse the term - *organic*), compared to the dumb, barely processed image of a BM camera. Apparently - but the attached screenshots are somewhat puzzling - you can set a shutter angle instead of shutter duration in video mode. Good thing, if it meant you could make it 180°, and just forget about it. Shutter durations didn't use to be exact with certain framerates (i.e. 1/50 for 23,98 fps). People complained about poor motion cadence. To be honest, I'm not sure what this means. It appears the Neumann footage was set to 64-940. Does anybody know how this could affect post? ??? On a A7Rii you can customize colors very accurately - at your own risk of course. But what does this mean?

Yep, same thing.

@Flynn 28mm F2 would be her preference, but - as known - there is no stabilisation for spontaneous hand-held shots. So she should buy the stabilized 35mm 1.8. She already took a look at the 18-105mm F4 OSS and it seems to be a good lens, but as the thread is named, "one woman, one lens" and not "one woman + dozens of lenses". As my father and me already collect Canonikon lenses, we need an "purist" in our family... ;-)

I am pretty sure the smaller the sensor the less mass you have to move, ergo better stabilization. Same goes for the lens associated with it and focus. Plus they have been building them a Lot of years. But every full size ENG camera that I ever operated never had stabilization, or auto focus, yet they did the job. But I guess since they weighed 20+ pounds helped a lot. One reason I am not too big on DSLR'S or Smaller Cameras, no pun.

Maybe I need glasses then because while I do see oversharpening on the Olympus, I'm not seeing any more detail with the Fuji. In the ISO test at the end the Oly does appear to be showing more detail. Anyway comparing detail on a 4k image is splitting hairs. The overall rendering is what counts and Fuji wins that hands down (in that test at least).

XC10/15 image quality was my biggest disappointment in 2016, I was looking for something to go gun and run and the camera looks like a dream in paper…..but just in paper, I think all XC10 owners here already sell their cameras and moved to something else, in my case I finally went C100 route, and very happy for now!!!

aww thank you for asking, not yet! i love the camera tho... ive been busy finishing a ton of artwork that im gonna go pitch to galleries in a few months... i worked ALLLLLL year on art in 2016, up all night, and its finally done!!!! ????? anyway this spring im gonna spend some real quality time shooting some raw video ? my overall reaction to 5d3 raw so far is: 1) its easy and it actually "just works": ive been getting profoundly satisfactory results since my first day of testing; no endless menus to adjust color, no stress in post 2) its like film: i dont know what to compare it to besides that, but ive processed quite a few rolls of film and thats what i feel like im dealing with, robust individual frames... it does NOT strike me as "video" like every other camera ive ever shot with. its different and the cameras great for stills, of course, using it to shoot some artwork rn ?

Olympus PRO has a more clinical look, the Leicas are more about smooth character. You could say one is a surgeon saving people's lives and the other an actor like George Clooney. Not to say that you can't have a smooth doctor or an actor without much of an attitude. Think it's also about what you shoot with it, maybe the Oly is more for landscape and Panaleica more suited for people. Again. Not to say one cannot mean the other, just the natural tendencies I think each has.

We were recording live events for decades. I do that so many times every year and I have never use a A7s for such a job, usually these venues have some kind of lighting anyway, or else they do not want the crowds to see anything. I am just amazed that people these days believe that with no IBIS, and no A7s, you are doomed to oblivion. I face every day a market that expects from one person to do lights, camera, sound, edit, sound editing, grading, driving, droning, everything. It is not right.

EOSHD Pro Color, Phase 0, 4900K and a very good excuse to show off our new arrival A7sii and 55mm f1.8

+10000 And kudos to DXO for giving us this. At least we have a good understanding of performance sensor. I verified their measurement in real world with every camera I owned. Cross their results with the Dpreview image comparison tool for ISO and DR and it matches well. I don't understand your frustration Andrew.

Dxo marks always been like that. It's not THE reference ..it's only a reference for those who actually know how to read the graphs and analyse some of the results. Overall score means as much as saying that the sky is blue.

I do agree that DXO's rankings are a bit questionable, but not too far off. There are generally valid explanations of the issues you cited: NX500 over 5DS and NX1: I've personally handled 5DSR files, and can say that the IQ is terrible. Even Canon stated not to expect much more than their old APS-C cameras in the IQ department. I've read a few times that the NX500 is considered to have higher IQ than the NX1. By how much, I don't know. But viewing test RAWs of the NX1, I'd say DR and high ISO are around 1/2 stop behind the Nikon D7200. DXO One: Its Super RAW literally is super. It takes 4 RAW files, stacks them, and averages out the noise. The difference is dramatic. While the detail level isn't the best at high ISO, the lack of noise is well beyond FF capability. This is similar to Olympus' high res RAW mode, but instead of increasing resolution, it reduces noise and increases detail at the same output size. D3X over D5: The D5 is a bomb below ISO 1600, nearly matching the 5D III. Even crop sensors beat it. The sensor is tuned for mid/high ISO performance, though current technology only goes so far. The gains, while there (+1/2 stop vs 1DX II), really aren't worth the trade off for the flexibility in low ISO RAW. Worthy of note is that the D3X has a Sony sensor, while the D5 is Nikon's own creation. D600 over 1DX II and P40+: It's true. The D600 kills the 1DX II in DR at base ISO, and at worst, ties it the rest of the way up. the 1DX II literally has years-old crop sensor performance in that area, despite Canon's massive gain in their new generation of sensors. High ISO is also neck and neck. Vs the P40+, the sensor in the MF camera is quite old. Despite having the resolution advantage, it loses out in DR and high ISO by quite a big margin. By ISO 1600, colors turn to mush, which doesn't really happen on the D600 at any ISO. D3s and D700: I've also worked with files from a D700 multiple times, and can say that yes, its sensor is outdated at this point. It's competitive with today's crop sensor cameras (minus Canon's) at best. The A7S/II sensor has been compared to current medium format in its DR and ability to reproduce color. Once again, the D3s/D700's sensor is Nikon's own. Nikon isn't very competitive when it comes to sensors, and probably had its best attempt at competing with Sony in the D4/s/f. All of the rest of their sensors just don't stand out, though aren't as bad as Canon's. I have a feeling that resolution plays a big part in DXO's rankings. If you downscale the A7R II's files to A7S II size, they will certainly have an advantage in their "Sports" rating. It might also be why the A7R II beats the D810, when the D810 clearly has about 1/3 stop advantage at high ISO. My friend tested 2x A7R IIs before returning them and keeping his D810. #IQsnob. For DR and high ISO, they test noise up to a certain amount. How they get to that amount, who knows, but it's a cutoff point they chose that represents the transition from "OK" noise to offensive noise. So while sensors may have DR response up to a certain amount of stops, after a point, it becomes wiser to turn things back a bit in software. Where that happens is up to the user, as it's a more subjective choice. And "Color" is more about correctly reproducing color in RAW than how the final JPG is rendered. Color in the Canon sense is highly subjective. Color against a known testing scene/chart isn't.

DXO has their explanations. https://www.dxomark.com/About/Sensor-scores/Overall-Score https://www.dxomark.com/About/Sensor-scores/Use-Case-Scores Low light score in particular is an actual ISO and I think the easiest to explain. "Sports & action photography: Low-Light ISO Unlike the two previous scenarios in which light is either generous (studio) or stability is assured (landscape), photojournalists and action photographers often struggle with low available light and high motion. Achieving usable image quality is often difficult when pushing ISO. When shooting a moving scene such as a sports event, action photographers’ primary objective is to freeze the motion, giving priority to short exposure time. To compensate for the lack of exposure, they have to increase the ISO setting, which means the SNR will decrease. How far can they go while keeping decent quality? Our low-light ISO metric will tell them. The SNR indicates how much noise is present in an image compared to the actual information (signal). The higher the SNR value, the better the image looks, because details aren't drowned by noise. SNR strength is given in dB, which is a logarithmic scale: an increase of 6 dB corresponds to doubling the SNR, which equates to half the noise for the same signal. An SNR value of 30dB means excellent image quality. Thus low-light ISO is the highest ISO setting for a camera that allows it to achieve an SNR of 30dB while keeping a good dynamic range of 9 EVs and a color depth of 18bits. A difference in low-light ISO of 25% represents 1/3 EV and is only slightly noticeable. As cameras improve, low-light ISO will continuously increase, making this scale open." It has nothing to do with AF etc so I think the sports scores are pretty reasonable maybe more so if you just consider them as low light rather than sports and remember it is based on their criteria. I am fine with using an A7s for night time sports. I use an old manual focus 300 2.8 anyway so it just means I can use a higher shutter speed. None of the shots would be printed huge so 12mp is fine. A modern FF DSLR would be a better sports CAMERA most of the time but does it have a better sports SENSOR (given DXOmarks criteria)? The overall scores are a bit based on voodoo as the bits that go into that are subjective without full explanation as to weighting. I think some of the anomalies might be because of a low number of samples tested given many cameras get slightly different scores with the same sensors. A slight difference might be just enough to take a camera a bit over or a bit under their marks. I don't think the A7s is any noisier than the A7sii and It seems the colour depth might be why the A7sii gets a lower score for low light (the point they cross 18 bits for colour sensitivity). For video it is all a bit silly though as they are only testing RAW stills and most video is Jpeg. I would love to see a site test sensors for video. RAW and otherwise.

I am sure most of the "internet specialists" around here would have stopped reading after "shoulder rig" and "5D mkII" !! These days everything is 10bit and IBIS+dual IS+Ronin+digital IS+everything! I do snob the 5Dii these days too, to be honest, and I have done a few Ronin things lately! I was talking about "a few more tripod shots" just maybe to give a little pause and change the rythm, so ever slightly, just for maybe 1/3 of a second (more) or something, and to avoid have almost everything "shaken", also a couple of "horizons" (the leveling) were unnecessary off, but in general it is a great great job. It works perfectly for your sponsor, but also artistically and technically with a simple but mature way. It is very difficult to have such a balanced result. Congrats! Aesthetically, I would rather have this kind of image than some stabilized images I have seen from some IBISs, this gives a better atmosphere in my opinion, and reminds me a bit of European Indie cinema, where the very good camera men had(have) only shoulder rigs to operate with huge film cameras. Would you mind to talk (or link) a bit about your shoulder rig? I am considering one for some time now, but I am still reflecting on the idea!

I have to say I'm very happy I decided to dump the xc10. I simply could not achieve anything like this.

Dynamic range is more than just counting the number of grey shades at the end of a chart. It's how colour is handled, the roll off, the codec, noise, a lot of stuff. C5D say nothing about what is usable, what isn't. My Leica M9 came out 7 years ago and it has more usable dynamic range in the raw stills than the latest full frame sensor from Sony in the A7S II (which remember, Sony claimed had 15 stops!! Yeah right)

Cary, I have to thank you for reminding me about this because I did actually forget about it. The easy way to fix the problem actually (in Premiere Pro anyway) is just to use the Fast Color Corrector and change the white OutPut Level frm 255 to 235. Before: After: