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The next step will be NXL EOS lens control. My dream is get the Samsung NX1 like a Canon 1D X MKII... Just better!

https://youtu.be/T81cdoYJyEw really nice 4K 60p (so I assume 4:2:0 given the current firmware) adventure film. Very entertaining look at gorge tightrope waliking. https://youtu.be/T81cdoYJyEw

The guy in your video knows nothing. Here is how you interpret 30p "as" 24p (or whatever your timeline is set to), and every frame will be played back without stuttering.

Hey gang, got another Carry Trainer Episode! Tested Slow Mo on the NX1 for a Gun Review: We had a variety of cameras for this video. For the main interview style talking head footage, I used my dual camera setup on a tripod. The tighter shot is the BMCC 2.5 with the 50mm Super Takumar F/1.4 and the Mitakon Lens Turbo II adapter(this speed booster is new, not in previous videos). The wider shot is the NX1 with the Super Takumar 35mm F/2.0... this was used for the close-up cutaway shots of the gun as well. (The corner sharpness sucks on this 35mm lens. I made it look good, but I need to swap it out for the F/3.5 Super Tak version.) The opening of the video has hi-speed footage from the NX1, recorded at the 1080p 120 fps setting(really 119.98 fps). In post while trans-coding, I stretched the footage out 500%, which perfectly fits 23.976. 23.976 is the standard 24 fps frame rate commonly used, and the base frame rate for Carry Trainer videos. Note, there is raw slow motion footage in the Bloopers at the end of the video (Go to 13:28) if your interested. In the bloopers it's literally straight out of camera with no adjustments other than re-timing it to 23.976. I wasn't present when the range footage was shot. That was recorded on Mickey's fancy Samsung cell phone, which amazingly recorders 4K... BUT AT 18 FPS. Lol. I just loaded this into DaVinci resolve and flipped the Optical Flow frame blending switch.That did a good enough job. Technical Notes: On the NX1 audio dropped out completely from one of the interview clips. For me it didn't matter because I wasn't using it(had a Tascam external recorder on the Lav), but I thought I'd report the glitch. My first clue was that the audio levels weren't moving at all while it was recording. The NX1 did fine recording after that.

I would keep your Canon glass and use the Aputure DEC Regain with it. That adapter is one of my personal reasons why id quite like a sony/m43 system. Its basically a remote follow focus with options to rack freely or set an A/B point and rack to and from. All this plus its a focal reducer

Here's a wedding I just finished earlier this week, shot entirely on the NX1 with hacked bitrate, with the NX-L Speedbooster, mostly on Rokinon 85 and 50mm cine lenses, except the gimbal shots which are on the NX500 and Rokinon 12mm. And here's a fun, kind of artsy little piece I helped a buddy with for a university project a month or two ago, it's also with bitrate-hacked NX1, NX-L, 85mm, and one or two shots on the 12mm and a 35mm Zeiss Jena (the macro-ish stuff at the beginning). But T1.5 with the speedbooster lets in a LOT of light, I still had to have ND for almost the entire video to keep my 180 degree shutter, even in such low-light conditions, ISO 100, pretty cool! EDIT: I forgot to mention that the first video is graded entirely with Neumann film's cinema LUT, while the second one uses Ricardo's Vellichor LUTs, albeit heavily pushed.

I would take the V-log instantly without a hassle. There is a higher possibility that the camera will get damaged "in action" than in "warranty".

His sin is making videography seem like fun, and the act of filming being its own reward. We all know that the only real purpose of filming is to get positive comments on the video blogs.

Apple released a software bundle for education: http://www.apple.com/us-hed/shop/product/BMGE2Z/A/pro-apps-bundle-for-education "The total cost of Final Cut Pro X ($299.99), Logic Pro X ($199.99), Motion 5 ($49.99), Compressor 4 ($49.99), and MainStage 3 ($29.99) is usually $629.95, so the bundle offers educational customers over $400 in savings." PS I have been running FCPX on a Macbook 12" to edit small 4K projects and I am very very happy with the performance with such a low powered machine, so I was eyeing FCPX for quite some time.

@Kisaha thanks! I'm using old version, Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM with cheap adapter from china K&F, canon mount, works very well for me.

@kisaha I agree, the P3P is a good option in terms of price/quality ratio. You should consider the used market.There are so many people who buy a drone, fly 5 times and put it in the closet. You can get great deals as these things loose so much value so fast. Also consider the accessories prices, the batteries and spare parts are much cheaper on "old" drones. For instance you can find two P3P battery at $250 while a single P4P battery is $170... I would wait on the Mavic, that's the first production batch of the first generation of mini Drone. DJI is known to release products a little bit too early. The Phantom line is now very mature (solved the arm crack, some fly away issue with dual sensors and GPS, etc). But if you need portability, the Mavic is great. The batteries are also "cheap' at $100 per unit. For the P4Pro I wouldn't get the version with the screen as it makes your setup less "upgradable". Some Apps don't work with the screen and you can bet that the next Phantom will require the V2 screen to work. DJI is known to be good at making previous version obsolete with the new one (eg. X5 Raw, controller not compatible between version or drones). I would just buy an Ipad mini or Iphone. I'm an android and PC guy but Apple products are more optimized with DJI.

Something different : anamorphic nx1, anamorphic lens : Kowa for Bell & Howell and talking lens : Konica-Hexanon 40mm f/1.8 (no hack sadly).

Great idea. Panasonic... Listen to that man!

@fuzzynormal I agree completely, I haven't even started because of this attitude, but I just lost a big documentary series because of that, spring time there is another big project that I may loose, or do some secondary work for it (and because the family grows, and needs feeding!), I am reconsidering my options, as for Greek TV just OK aerial shots are good enough for 75% of the productions. I have even seen some terrible stuff on air! @OliKMIA excellent summary (as @ade towell said!) and great work. Congrats! I would like to go for a NEW product, a fly a bit some SYMA drones (if you know them) with not so good results(!), that is why I am reluctant with a bigger, more expensive, pro tool. As I see it 3 options are available, P3Pro is a very good starting option but it is around 900-1000euros here with one battery, so not that cheap, Mavic extremely small (I like all my equipment manageable, small/light), the simple edition is 1200euros and the fly more combo is 1500-1600 euros, but with 2 extra batteries plus some extras and the brilliant bag. P4Pro is the best for low budgeted ones (1 inch/4K60p for that price is amazing!) but is 1600 euros the simple, and 2000euros the one with the 5.5" screen. I (if) will make my buy near spring time, I have read some complaints about Mavic stability, video quality (some say that P3pro has better quality) and even though the size is just amazing and brilliant, the price isn't, with that said, I love having a small bag with a perfectly fine drone in it!

Hey Guys, A few things on several posts - I use the 1dc and smallhd 501with sidefinder as well (just added it to the mix and have been through 5x evf mounts to find the perfect one - it's not easy. In terms of focusing while shooting, like any focus assist, the smallhd is hard to rely on too much when you're wide open, it's among the best I've tried, but it still shows some areas in focus that aren't. While you can't punch in while you're shooting on the 1dc, you CAN autofocus while you're shooting. You can use the af button on the back, and yes, it will temporarily wreck your shot for the few seconds it focuses and hunts, but it is MUCH faster than stopping rolling, punching in and then slating again. Even if you don't slate it's way faster. Here's a guide to doing this: http://bit.ly/2l392zk (it's the same as 5dm2 - many other eos cameras allow this as well, ie: 5dm3, 1dx.) Also there's are a few tools which make it easier - I'm testing out the usefulness of this Bogen Sympla mvr911eccn wired remote that allows zoom and focus adjustments while shooting via the usb port - it's not perfect, it can be choppy, but it's tweak-able and is far less noticeable if you're wide and handheld. There are other more expensive tools which will also do this, maybe they're better? All this said, I'd love for all of you to please also stop by contribute and help me out with my 1dc blog that's for all the intricacies of this camera (like the above) and how to maximize it's use because - that image quality, doe! And pease share your hits misses, gear loves and hates for accessories, share your work shot on the 1dc/1dx and help out everyone else when you can! i'm not monetizing it at all, this is a purely altruistic venture based on my constant frustration at there being very little info out there for the things I want to know: https://canon1dcuser.wordpress.com/

Why not? But not necessary. In Premiere, you can conform all clips in one sweep in the project window. In FCP X, you can assign a keyboard shortcut for Automatic Speed to conform one or multiple selected clips. I have ctrl+cmd+r (because there already are retiming shortcuts). This is for 30-60 fps. Usually higher framerates are flagged as slomos anyway by the camera.

As I understand it, he's got a bit of a manic-depressive thing going on. He's using the vlog to help himself through. A bit slow for me but I respect him for containing things and getting a bunch of work done along the way.

Still so pissed we never got a successor. Still my favorite skin tones of ANY camera.

Some good pictures in thread.

Most probably the back element will perform just like a fixed ND filter

Just seems to me that if you are sticking at ISO 5000 or less, there are plenty of cameras that would work and the main point of the A7s cameras is they work great at higher ISOs/low light. The A7s (first version) is my all time favourite camera to date but that is BECAUSE I shoot so much above ISO 6400 (and often way over). If I was only sticking to ISO 5000 or less, it just wouldn't make sense. It is a nice enough day time camera but for its price point and specs, there are plenty of others that make more sense I think just for good light. I just find it interesting how people don't want to shoot with some cameras at ISO 6400 but will with another at 3200 even though the 6400 one might be better. Sometimes it seems people are scared of the numbers rather than the results. No matter, I was just curious. Thanks.

Again, I am a horrible colorist, so take my opinion with a grain of salt, but I have found input/utility/conversion LUTS to be horribly inconsistent. Unless the LUT creator knows your exact in camera settings, exposure, etc..., then it will be hard to get a proper baseline. However I do like Film Print Emulation export LUTS at the end of the coloring process to add a little bit of depth to the image. With all that being said, there are a couple basic utility LUTS that work fairly well and for slog I have found the LUTS made for Arri work the best. Also, it seems the camera profiles with FilmConvert work pretty damn good too. Sorry for the off topic.

Dear Iksim, no risk of damage to the camera with NXL, rather it protects the sensor from dust when changing lens outdoors.

IBIS is a great improvement. But not usefull for anamorphic shooter. @Rudolf you are right about its like a warp stabilizer or youtube "auto stabilize" weird correction. If panasonic people can make a mode with only vertical stabilization (like the one in panoramic photo) would be great for our scopes.

Yes. Then he should better have shot at the project framerate in the first place. Or shouldn't he ??? Because 30p wouldn't spontaneously be perceived as slow motion, but as "movie-time". Gravity, importance. It's an editing tool also. If someone backswings to build up momentum for a strike, it's better to accentuate the movement (a tiny, not too obvious time ramp) or else the whole action may look lame and speeded-up (or is it sped-up?). Also, for smooth camera movements, pans, slider- or gimbal shots, 30p can be appropriate. Watch this: Thanks a lot. Framerate conforming works differently in FCP X (you select the clips in the timeline, then you apply Automatic Speed from the retiming dialog, FCP X adjusts the audio's pitch per default). To render all frame rate changes with optical flow on export, you have to edit (click the said boxes) and save the export module in Compressor. I didn't know.

I've been shooting drone for a long time. On a pure technical standpoint (I'm not going to enter in the legal aspect) - Karma: the drone is big, takes forever to warm up, the gimbal has a lot of drift, the radio link is weak and it's not very cheap ($1200 with the GoPro). In other words this is not the best bang for your bucks, nothing dramatic but there is much better on the market. Just GoPro first shot at it. Perhaps after the recent recall, GoPro fixed some issue, we'll see... - Phantom 3 : the Phantom 3 Pro films in 4K, the P3 Standard only in 1080. DJI recently stopped selling this drone but there is a lot of inventory and you can still buy a brand new unit for cheap. The IQ is enough for most internet stuff however the max bitrate at 60mbps is a little bit weak especially if you shoot in 4k. - Phantom 4 and Phantom 4 PRO: the Phantom 4 is just an updated Phantom 3 with front sensor (collision avoidance). Nothing very different on the IQ compared to the P3Pro However the Phantom 4 PRO has a much larger sensor (one inch) so better DR, ISO and quality overall. The bitrate also max out at 100mbps which is good especially with the h265 codec (but a pain to edit right now), you can still record in h264 at 100mbps. It also does 4k60. It's the most expensive one ($1500) - Mavic: nice and small portable drone, ok price at $1000 but hard to find at the moment (sold out). Offers collision avoidance (front) like the Phantom 4 and 4 Pro. On the con side the drone is a bit too light for windy days (jello and vibration issue) and the bitrate is back to 60mbps. - A note about the focal (FF equivalent): the Phantom 3 Pro and P4 are 20mm, the Phantom 4 Pro is 24mm and the Mavic is 28mm. Keep that in mind depending of what you want to do. - Other drones ? The Yuneec and Walkera make ok drones but DJI products are just better - Is is hard to fly? not really, these drones are full of automation, the flight is assisted by GPS, they will come back to the landing point if you press a button (RTH), they will also calculate your distance Vs battery and start flying back if the battery is too low based on the distance. Some have collision avoidance system. If you are a bit tech friendly and played video game in your life you won't have any issues. To give you and idea, once you start the drone and take off, the thing will stay in the air and hoover by itself until you move the command. It won't drift thanks to the GPS. Can't be easier than that ! Conclusion: You could start with a Phantom 3 standard (1080 max) or P3Pro for $500-800 new or even find cheaper used unit (check the hundreds available on Craigslist and ebay). The IQ is good enough for most internet stuff (similar to gopro), you won't break the bank and/or cry too hard if you crash. The Phantom 4, 4 Pro and Mavic have the front sensor for collision avoidance if you are a noob. Basically the drone will stop automatically on front of an obstacle. The Phantom 4 Pro is definitely a step up in term of image quality but also the more expensive. Last thing, if you buy a drone here is what YOU MUST do and understand before flying: 1. compass calibration, 2. IMU calibration, 3. return to home (set the correct altitude), 4. difference between the flight mode (ATTI and GPS). Check the thousand of tutorial available on internet. Nothing complicated but ignoring these simple things will lead to crash. Be smart, not like Casey Neistat. Here is what I did with a Phantom 3 Pro a few years ago. Fair enough

Not very. The controls are very straightforward --but you will most likely crash before you come to terms with it. I felt pretty confident after a day of practice with an old and used camera-less drone. Then, I flew my actual camera drone into a tree a few days later during a shoot. Boom. Basically, it takes some wisdom to learn how to interpret spatial dynamics from a distance. More important than that is just learning how not to over-react to stuff when flying. All that said, I basically gave up on aerials. I don't find them particularly compelling anymore. Understood that your clients just want it "because," but I really have a hard time rationalizing 'em these days in my own work considering that it's so prevalent elsewhere.

If the hack is not stable it's not worth using it if you're doing a paid job.