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That's quite a provocative question, but I like the way you think! Theoretically, it should be possible to get the GH4 to more closely match the Alexa. This is what I would do. 1. Shoot in 10bit V-Log to an external recorder 2. Use LutCalc to generate a VLog to Alexa LUT, to get the Panasonic gamma and gamut into the Alexa range 3. Shoot a colour chart with a GH4 and Alexa (this is the hard part) with the same exposure. Then bring both into Resolve. Apply the VLog to Alexa LUT to the GH4 shot and adjust the hue and saturation curves so that each square on the aligns with those in the Alexa shot, as seen on the vectorscope. Using this kind of method I've got my XC10 to match my 5D3 MLRAW almost perfectly, both shooting a colour calibrated version of C-Log. That's not entirely dissimilar from what you're talking about. OK, they're both Canons but actually the colours coming from each of them were actually quite different. Maybe you can find a shot of a chart shot on an Alexa somewhere and exactly replicate the exposure and lighting on your GH4. Good luck and don't forget to post your results when you succeed!

Maybe not from 5 years ago...but these were the average US prices as of 1980 :

I shot some high contrast scenes to test out what's the maximum dynamic range you can achieve without F-Log.

To give you an idea this video (again just a test nothing really good) I took it after 7h of total fly time: Attempting the same maneuvers with a toy drone as you have I would have crashed 50 times:-). If you come from the toy drones that are great to learn the basics you will find the stability of the phantom another world. Prior to the phantom I did fly maybe a total of 2h with the hubsan toy drone (5 min max flight with a battery:-( ) Btw the two videos are not my style of work, I do mostly sports/action so I'm just learning to be able to use it for MTB, Ski, Trial, Horseback riding, Icehockey, etc... to intercut with normal gimbal and tripod work. For me the key point is always if I will use it or not. I only add stuff to my arsenal that I really use.... so I tend to have a few but great stuff that tons of gears that I rarely use.

This is why I said "if budget is not an issue". To me it seems that he is mostly afraid of crashing it or not being able to fly it because is to difficult. Having flew only toy drone before I can reassure the OP that the Phantom/Mavic are super easy to fly and most people crash them due to over confidence. It gives you almost too much confidence on how stable and easy is to fly. IMO is not the 60 vs. 100 mbits but the adjustable aperture, dynamic range and better low light that makes the difference. For people that wants to fly for fun and do some video the Mavic is amazing, if the goal is commercial work then for the price difference P4p it is a no brain. Of course you can create great content with p3p, p4, mavic as you can do it with a 5d II but most people don't buy a 5d II anymore.... is not only the camera but the P4p is faster than the p4/mavic with obstacle avoidance enabled and also have backwards obstacle avoidance, it has a super handy mode for slow cinematic takes called tripod mode (mavic has it too) etc... Also the video signal although not yet perfect is much more stable than the p3p. Here in Switzerland the major DJI reseller is selling the original battery at 110$ like most store here, no ebay or strange non reputable stores... It seems that they are all discounting the battery due to the new ones (ca. 2-3 minutes more fly time). But for the price you can buy 3 battery for less than two new ones. If budget is not an issue buy the p4p with DJI care if available in your country (assurance for crash even by pilot mistake), if you don't use it you can sell used for a really good price.... if budget is an issue buy a used p3p... Mavic and P4 are not really worth at current price if the main goal is video for commercial. Yes only a test. I was playing around with the various mode like orbit, active track etc... I was there for a weekend vacation with my girlfriend. I had the drone since 3 days and only 1 battery. The video is just ok it has tons of issues and as you can see I stayed quite far away from the hotel/villa because the drone was soo new to me that I didn't one to take risks. Location is over Lucerne in the Swiss Alps.

Although I have no idea how the exchange rate was in '79 but that 'Super 8 cinemascope' seemed to be a bargain shop compared to this...

5D MKIII Raw.

Better to wait for the a7s4, which will fix some of the problems with the a7s3. There are ALWAYS problems.

Looks nice and detailed. I think post sharpening is a must with Canon.

Isn't the BMCC referred to as a Mini Alexa? They are so cheap on the used market right now, it may be worth looking into one of those instead of trying to get the GH4 to look like an Alexa.

Light properly.

Not following on a few things here. I love my A7SII too, but I think you've got a few things mixed up here unless I'm mistaken. And, caveat, this being the problem of the ridiculous caveat machine that is the A7RII. - The reduced rolling shutter mode is full frame 4K. Which has a little less detail, and a lot less rolling shutter. - The shaper, more detailed mode is Super 35mm. But you get added rolling shutter. But this isn't a problem for lenses, you just get a little crop. No need to change mount and I wouldn't bother with a focal reducer for such a minimal crop. - ISO performance was supposed to be very strong on the A7RII, equal until around 25k. I rarely ever shoot higher on the A7SII. I doubt many do. - A7SII real benefits are SLOG3 support, in-camera LUT for SLOG, that slightly higher ISO performance. Again, I'd still rather have better AF. Annnyway, these topics are boring. Get what works for your needs and your budget. I only photograph for a hobby so I couldn't rationalise buying the A7RII over the A7SII. If you have a project coming up, buy something in your budget. If you just want to buy and play around, wait and see. There is no right camera, as thousands have said. In 2 years you'll be wanting the latest and greatest all over again.

I got mine almost exactly 5 years ago (16-H), and prices haven't changed as much as you might think, not for that lens. It's up USD $100-$150, but even mine was $450 if I remember correctly. On a side note, yeah. 16-H has proven to be on the true shortlist of top-quality anamorphic lenses. It really is down to personal preference at a certain point. The Moller, the Iscos, and Lomo are the rest of that list, and the Lomos are really not adapters, but full-on cinema lenses. A Kowa 16-H is still an incredibly smart buy. All the camera specs in the world are no substitute for good glass.

I think so. This is what Metabones says (for the Ultra .71x Speedbooster) "Like the revolutionary original Metabones Speed Booster® announced in January 2013, the Speed Booster ULTRA m43 has a magnification of 0.71x, and so it effectively reduces the crop factor of mirrorless Micro Four Thirds mount cameras from 2.0x to 1.4x. However, the new ULTRA design makes very effective use of exotic materials at the furthest limit of glassmaking technology, and as a result is almost perfectly corrected for use with all fullframe SLR lenses regardless of aperture. The Speed Booster ULTRA m43 will also work extremely well with many DX and APS-C format lenses provided the image circle of the lens is large enough. Optical performance of the new Speed Boosters is so good that the MTF of any lens attached to it will be improved. Even the latest generation of ultra-high performance SLR lenses such as the Zeiss Otus series can be improved by adding a Speed Booster ULTRA m43. (More information can be found in the press release here and whitepaper here)" http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPEF-M43-BT4 You might find those lenses might vignette for part of the range but not all. I don't have those lenses or Speedbooster and most of my Canon lenses are FF but my one Canon APSC lens (18-55 ISii kit lens) doesn't vignette on my M4/3 camera at all and that is with (Lens Turbo .72x apox) and without a focal reducer. In fact, the lens covers FF on my A7s from about 23/24mm and up and covers APSC on the A7s at 18mm just fine (Canon's APSC is 1.6x while others makers are 1.5x). I think it is going to come down to a lens by lens case as to what can work and what can not. With the XL (.64x) Speedbooster, Metabones says- "EF-S lenses require modification to fit or may remain incompatible even after modification (but third party DX lenses can be used without modification) EF-S and third party DX lenses may not cover the full Micro Four Thirds sensor in still photo, FHD video (all cameras) and 4k (GH5) modes (but will cover 4k video mode on GH4, GX8)" http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPEF-m43-BT3

How can I get my Škoda to ride like a Ferrari? The answer is: you can't. Light your scene properly. Shoot in standard picture profile (unless you use external 10 bit recorder). Learn how to tweak colors in premiere/resolve. Use anamorphics to enhance cinematic look. Still won't look like an ALEXA footage, but you'll be satisfied with it

I thought I saw a comment about why I am looking to buy an M43 camera when I'm unsure about the lenses available. The comment seems to have gone but thought I'd clarify anyway. The GH5, for the money, has an incredible feature set for video and is a great lightweight stills camera. I'd like to use it as a B-Cam for video and a second stills camera for the small amount of photographic work I do. I'm sure some of the native lenses are incredible, and thanks to those who are giving me advice in that regard. I think it might be worth investing in one, to begin with. However I have to think about the rest of the gear I use, not much point having fabulous M43 glass gathering dust at home if I'm shooting on an F5 or a C300. Thanks again for the help everyone. Keep it coming. Rich

That guy is a joker, thinks he can finish off repaying his student loan in one go or something. I really expected Samyang to enter the budget anamorphic market a long time ago. I even wrote them a heads up email. I am such an influental guy you see, they still haven't given up on signing me with the r&d department.. SLRMagic should work on the quality of their glass a bit more, and for the love of God, please get rid of those baby blue flares. On a more positive note I am absolutely curious what Forrest Schultz will come up this year. He's been working on his Apollo concept a while now.

Jonpais, you are right. I think I am putting too much emphasis on chromatic aberration. I also understand what you are saying about using light small glass without adapters, I am with you 100%. If I was going to ditch my Canon system and go solely over to M43 I would absolutely go native mount, but sadly I'm not in that position and I have to think how the GH5 will fit into my current work and what cameras I'll most likely to be using in the future. As you point out, APS-C is most likely. I also agree with you about matching lenses in post, however, most of my work is edited by others and often they do not have the time or skills to do a proper colour correction pass. Maybe I could sneakily get just one M43 25mm without the bank manager noticing. R Hey Jimmy, I haven't as you've probably guessed. But looking on DXO it scores pretty badly for sharpness and CA. The Sigma M43 30mm 1.4 gets the best marks, and isn't that expensive. R

Very special "character" - dreamy....

The Mavic can be found at several US dealers or last minute deal on walk-in (Best Buy, Apple, Drone Nerds) but the current Chinese New Year celebration is not making things easy. As for IQ, the P3P and Mavic can do the job for most situation, TV included. Of course it won't be high end Hollywood stuff but until the Inspire 2 and P4P came out two months ago the entire drone operators world did fine for the last 2 years with the P3, P4, Inspire X3 and X5, all maxing out at 60mbps. All the sudden the P3P and Mavic IQ is not acceptable anymore ? Did the media agencies and customers drastically changed their requirements over the last 2 months ? Of course 100mpbs is welcome and the P4P is great but I wouldn't discard the previous generation of drone especially if you are new into this. Remember there was only 8 months between the P4 and P4P announcement ! Be careful as there is a lot of fake batteries online and the DJI drones really don't like non-standard battery especially since they are "smart" units with the controller and regulator chip inside the battery. It's not just about the quality of the LiPo cell but how well or how bad the Drone and fake/non official battery will communicate. Things can get ugly very fast with wrong firmware and software issue. You can totally crash because a good 70% full battery will suddenly be seen as empty by the drone for instance, triggering the auto-land procedure...

but but but but but this is NOT a low light camera...

The image coming out of that 12-60mm lens is a lot nicer than I thought. And it's a very useful focal range too.

Look's great Matthew19- nice job editing and touching music choice. With a little post sharpening it can be sharp enough for tight and medium shots, which looks like most of your shots. For wides it's still not going to looking like 4K downsampled to 1080p. For YouTube which is watched heavily on mobile devices these days, the in-camera 1080p is detailed enough. I still have a 5D3 (haven't shot H.264 video with it in a long time) and don't feel that the 1DX II is improved in sharpness/detail over the 5D3 post sharpened (here's a test I did after the 5D3 debate that it was too soft): For anything serious and short in length I use the 1DX II in 4K and downsample (lately only for 4K 60 paired with the C300 II as the primary camera). In any case, the 1080p from both cameras is sharp/detailed enough for people/closeups/mid shots and the colors look great out of camera. People have been using diffusion/softening filters (e.g. Black Pro-Mist, nylon stockings) to take the edge off over-sharp cameras for a long time

I have one I use on my iPhone 6s. Looks OK on close ups but not far away on your video. Interesting.

@mercer I used to have a 70D that I used with ML, including on some paid projects. Lenses with IS work just fine with raw recording, either MLV or the older RAW files, there's no difference. I never noticed any battery issues either, seemed the same to me, and yes, aperture priority would work just fine. Basically, magically lantern doesn't prevent you from doing anything the camera already does normally. Granted, this was a couple of years ago that I was using it, they were nightly builds right after the 70D port was released, I sold the camera shortly thereafter, but if you have to use a canon dslr, ML is the only thing that makes it remotely tolerable to use in my opinion, especially the peaking, zebras, audio meters, and built in time lapse functions. Raw with sexy dual pixel af is definitely pretty sweet tho! Best of luck.

if someone still interested, here are two frames from my early tests of BMMCC done with Hoya UV-IR filter+Hoya 80A and with Hoya UV-IR filter only. As light source i used 500W halogen lamp. In Resolve i adjust WB by the grey Color checker patch (third from the left). Color conversion done with custom generated LUT in LUTCalc app (output gamma Alexa-X-2, output gamut LC709). To my opinion 80A filter makes some things better but it is not too perfect. It rises color temperature but also adds cyan-green tint to the image which eats saturation in greens when you try to adjust image to netural grey balance. As opposite warm temperature light souse without filter produce very low saturated and noisier yellows for same reason. Probably all those color shifts can be corrected with more complicated color correction but this is another story...

Unless you want to frankestien the hell out of it and rewire the bmpcc's encoder and recording circuitery and magically get the cpu to still communicate with the encoder to control it .... NO

@benymypony for 550$ I am doing it for free on my 3m boom pole (which I do for years and years now anyway with gopros) and buy a used Phantom! Seriously, it is a great accessory, but rather on the expensive side, still a great buy for some. Small cranes are very cheap these days too (from 80-200$) and can achieve great motion.

ah OK, my bad then, I am used to watch the footage without sound at all -- daily rushes habit... Thanks for the heads up, mate! :-)

Thank you so much! Those overlapping dance scenes are my saving point...I always have a terrible time to edit the "party" section of a wedding, thats why I do it that way, it saves the whole thing!

True. That last shot looks like made on a steadicam... But it's handheld, folks! WOW What a piece of technology! A consumer camera, WTH...

Especially the 54 currently on eBay for £8800

Selling one of the babies because I have three and don't really need them all. Two is plenty for my needs and figure there are eager people out there in need of one.

Finally! Not bad at all!

you definitely need the redstan clamp/sleeve but compared to all my iscoramas and kowas and yadda yaddas I think the baby hyper blows them all away in terms of character, sharpness, contrast, and killer crisp flares. To each his own though of course....focus is what always kills you with these pretend-lenses which is why I tend to use the baby Isco and similar often when just run n gunning.

I got a Hoyarex split diopter and tested on the bmpcc and Rokinon 12mm cine. I love this old school effect.

Nice piano!

Congrats on finishing your artwork, and good luck with the pitches. I am currently doing the same with a half dozen scripts I rough drafted over the past five years. I bought a 50D a few months back for a couple hundred bucks and the image still astounds me. I took the easy route and process the footage through ML Raw Viewer directly to prores but even with a little less latitude in post, and no sound, it mops the floor with any image in that price category. I hope to get a mark iii at the end of this year or in 2018 when the used prices drop a touch more... beautiful image. Please report back when you have some footage to share. Even a shot similar to that one you posted from the RX a while back... I think it was your dog's head out the car window? Good stuff.