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Hello Ikslim, I build them in sets of 10 pieces at a time. Next week I will send the first 10 already sold, for the next production will have to wait a month, but it will have some constructive improvements and also the predisposition for electrical controls. Best Luca

Shot this today at Penn farm---inside Cedar Hill, Texas St. Park. The farm was a working farm for over a century. I want to get some better shots--maybe in using a tripod, but this is just a quick set of images, all hand held all relying entirely on the 5 axis stabilization. I shot it using the metabones EF-MFT speed booster with a Sigma 18-35 1.8 zoom. Of course, I used a variable ND filter, and kept most shots below 2.4...but many are at F 1.1. All shots are manual focus---difficult hand held, but possible. I shot this with a custom pic profile with sharpening all the way down, contrast all the way down, and sat. -2. No LUT-- I hand graded the footage just to correct exposure, increase dynamic range a bit and saturation. Very little was done beyond that. I wanted to try to preserve a natural look. Let me know what you think.

Premiere Pro doesn't have the built-in color tools necessary for working in a log space. That's something I might be able to correct in the future. I know a lot of people use Premiere.

What do you upgrade to once you get bored of Sony and Panasonic? I went to find out. Read the full blog here

This 1/2.3" three layered stacked sensor looks interesting for the next versions of s http://www.sony.net/SonyInfo/News/Press/201702/17-013E/index.html

Firmware update! V1.2 reduces camera noise while shooting video, dual IS2 stability improvements.

With the A7s you can shoot iso 25,600 with not much problem, the GH5 cannot touch it.

I know that with that lens image is stabilized by the 5 axis in body + the lens stabilization but with vintage lens the body stabilization still works, right?

* V-Log 8bit 60fps 4K * ISO 400, shutter at 1/60 * Mitakon Zhongyi Speedmaster 25mm f/0.95 Lens, aperture at 1.4 to 2.0

Ya it was out of focus. Due to time I just left it. I didn't have time to go back and reshoot

Exactly the same but stretched.

Yeah why not a little bit here and there, and a ramp in between. Yep, I think if you nail white balance, a lot of other things fall into place.

I'm finding the same thing, and all the shooting I do under exposing minus 2/3 or thereabouts the color is much fuller and richer. Over exposure makes the colors look washed out, and it's hard to recoup it in post.

I have been loving ISO 400 so much with the latest firmware, I've been picking it over ISO 200 as well. The range and the grain just feels right. Hahaha yeaaaa,I can probably do without the night vision shots of Brighton Beach.

Thanks for your reply mercer. Yeah, as i said i love the image (D5300 = D5500 in that aspect) but in my opinion this camera is a nightmare for video recording and the panasonic has focus peaking as zebras for example and that matters most to me than the 4k and IBIS (of course these are a plus). Yeah i know. My question was kind of "well...with the kit lens the price is just +100€...should i buy it anyway?"

Nice (30min) iphonedo comparison review including the bad karma.

I will

its easier with small size sensor than big ones, definitely want a phone with that capability

Can you prove me that other than the s35 mode the 1dc is sharper and superior? Also the 1dx ii has much less rolling shutter....

How can I get my Škoda to ride like a Ferrari? The answer is: you can't. Light your scene properly. Shoot in standard picture profile (unless you use external 10 bit recorder). Learn how to tweak colors in premiere/resolve. Use anamorphics to enhance cinematic look. Still won't look like an ALEXA footage, but you'll be satisfied with it

if someone still interested, here are two frames from my early tests of BMMCC done with Hoya UV-IR filter+Hoya 80A and with Hoya UV-IR filter only. As light source i used 500W halogen lamp. In Resolve i adjust WB by the grey Color checker patch (third from the left). Color conversion done with custom generated LUT in LUTCalc app (output gamma Alexa-X-2, output gamut LC709). To my opinion 80A filter makes some things better but it is not too perfect. It rises color temperature but also adds cyan-green tint to the image which eats saturation in greens when you try to adjust image to netural grey balance. As opposite warm temperature light souse without filter produce very low saturated and noisier yellows for same reason. Probably all those color shifts can be corrected with more complicated color correction but this is another story...

That was actually one of things Olan mentioned in his post on the user group. He decided to go for ISO 400 instead of 200 because he didn't want the clean look for this. While it is possible to get the clean look, I think a lot of people like the mojo that ISO 400-800 bring. Now, on a D16 mkII using the KAE-02150 sensor, a clean image would be extremely easy to get, and you wouldn't be sacrificing much high end range at all.