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I hate to be "the NX1 guy" in this thread ha (I'm actually suprised none of the usual suspects have piped up yet)... But it might be worth looking into the NX1, or the even cheaper NX500 for that matter, both produce lovely, sharp 60p (and gorgeous 120p as well!) with minimal moire/aliasing, crazy low rolling shutter, and decent enough lowlight performance with a fast lens, which you're obviously interested in, i.e. shallow dof, or you wouldn't care so much about sensor size. I have no idea what they'd go for down under, but there are lots of gently used ones around for pennies. Our very own forum member Lucabutera is selling some awesome NX-L speedboosters that he has crafted as well, I have one, which gives the camera about a 1.1x crop. Seems like it'd fit your parameters pretty spectacularly. Best of luck!

The 25 1.4 is absolutely my favourite lens for video. It has a special character and warmth. I have never noticed AF noise with the lens. With the IBIS on newer bodies it will be even better as the lack of stabilisation was the only thing making it more difficult to use with the GH4. Super wide I just use the Rokinon 7.5 fisheye and defish to 1080.

Luca, the mailman delivered the NXL a minute ago. I finally got it! Yeah! Thank you

Unsure why everybody is surprised the AF seems iffy with this camera? Each company seems to have specs they excel at and it takes the other manufacturers a few years to catch up on... I doubt Panasonic is just holding back phase or dual pixel af. Just as I doubt Canon is holding back inexpensive 4K with a manageable codec size. Just as Sony is doubtfully holding back cameras that do not overheat. If you NEED great AF, get a Canon. If you NEED crazy sharp, high resolution video with adequate AF, get a Sony. If you NEED 10bit 4K up to 60p at $2000 get the GH5. Since I assume most of the people interested in the GH5 are event videographers, I would think AF would be more important than 10bit video? As said earlier... you can't get everything for $2000 or less.

@Dean and @Kisaha A week ago I shot a small fashion show (filming) of a fashion store with a friend of mine. I used my NX1, he shot with his X-T2 from different angles. It was his paid job, so I was lucky to gather some more experience into shooting show events like this. After shooting, I was very pleased, when seeing the X-T2 footage (colors, texture, outlines, etc.). But the NX1 is a complete different horse...and ironically, my friend's client was much more pleased by the NX1...In his eyes, the X-T2 footage was too "subjective", too warm. He liked the much detailed images and "neutral" color science (I shot with DR, Andrew Reid settings) of the NX1 more than the footage of the X-T2. He told us, the footage of the NX1 "matches much more the current requirements of the fashion industry than the X-T2". OK, it's only one opinion of one client, but you can see, the NX1 has still many fans on client's and enthusiasts side. For video - because of the very good 1080p and 120fps, addtionally to the outstanding detailed footage in 4K - I wouldn't sell it at the moment. For stills, it's very good (in good light) in IQ, but the images are too sterile in my eyes - same "sterile sharpness" as in video, but much more worse, when speaking of stills. It produces tack sharp images with great Canon EF lenses, with by far better photographical (from technical POV) IQ than the 5D m3. BUT...there is no feeling, no "special emotion" in these stills, they are like "sterile robotics photography". It's quite hard to explain and it's a personal point of view... Yes, you could tweak some profiles and add some texture and some kind of flair in post, but other manufacturers offer this much better. Curiously, I like the NX1 look in video (and many other people and friends of mine do it too), but not that much in stills...Just my two cents... BTW: When taking a quick look to the stills and videos out of the X-T2, I was very pleased. It has a completely different flair than other cameras on the market and it is (speaking of a short shooting experience) a great camera to shoot video and stills. Easy and very intuitive to use, with a very good AF in video - better than the NX1, but the X-T2 is the newer camera...

Affordable? Man, it's all affordable these days. Even the expensive stuff is affordable.

It's still pre-release firmware, I think we should save the condemnations for the final release version.

a short doc shot with the X-T2. looks great.

I'm posting a full review on Sunday! :D

Download OBS free software here: https://obsproject.com/

Does ANYBODY have a proper comparison video up yet? What about a direct split screen comparison between the 10bit and 8bit mode? And does 10bit make a difference in the grade? Aside from Neumann all the coverage this time has been total lightweight fluff. Really lazy. Quickly punted out, to collect hits. I honestly don't think any of the testers have put more than 5 minutes of work per video into what they have done. Can't find anything comprehensive at all. They really should have given me a camera, the retards

Would like to know what you think about our newest work. Shot with the infamous Panasonic GH4, internal V-LOG 8bit, -5/-5 NR and sharpness. Used Panasonic lenses: 12-35mm 2.8, 20mm 1.7 and 42.5mm 1.7. Used a Tiffen Black Satin Filter to get rid of the sharpning artifacts still left over at -5 and add some smoothness to highlights and shadows. Budget: about 0$.

Looks like the X-T2 could be the replacement for many NX1 users when then time is right for them to retire their NX1 NX1 users are very loyal and maybe a little fanatical (just a little LOL) so I think they will naturally gravitate to Fuji to find a home instead of Canikon or Sony. I'm different to most here in that I'm not professional and just do this for fun and 99% handheld video on the streets, but my options are getting less and less with every camera that's released. I simply hate fully articulating screens and it seems every camera that comes out these days has one !! Until I got he G85 I didn't realise how disorientating that screen makes me feel when trying to stealthily film on the street. So unnatural. The X-T2 doesn't have a FAS thank god so it's at the top of my list at the moment but I haven't made the jump yet. Also looking at getting an ARii again but that's a frustrating camera in other respects (dim screen when filming outdoors, wait for ever for data to write to card, menus all over the place etc etc) I did go and play with a couple of X-T2s again yesterday, and it does feel like a nice camera but I'm not 100% convinced yet. One thing I couldn't see when in movie mode yesterday when changing settings was an exposure needle on the screen but I'm sure that's a setting somewhere. In some ways, I should just choose my next camera on stills quality alone because my GX85 is about as perfect as it gets for me for street video What does surprise me every time I play with the X-T2 is how bloody effective the OIS is in the 18-55 for filming. I felt just as good as Olympus IBIS. Amazingly steady. I reckon Fuji's next big FW update for the X-T2 will include some goodies for video. I'd love to see F-LOG available internal but who knows. I think it will have a touch screen for sure. My little Fuji X70 (which can't focus for shit) has one and it works pretty well ... in a limited way. If they somehow add IBIS to the X-T3 it would be amazing. Could they do this I wonder. Would be such a bonus if they did.

I'd be worried you're not gonna like going from full frame to m43 and you won't like going from Canon to something else. I'm not all that crazy about "Canon colors" but a lot of Canon users are absolutely miserable when they move to something else. The move to a smaller sensor and the change in colors, it's a constant complaint you see on forums from Canon users. "I don't like what I'm seeing." I would hold onto the 6D and make sure the company you get the GH5 from has a liberal return policy.

@Kisaha you are right! it can't be 4 years... definitely feels like I had it for that long. the AF and the touch screen is amazing on the NX1. and the 16-50S is an outstanding piece of glass that is built like no other. it's a shame that they didn't make an NX2. it would have been something.

@tokhee it can't be 4 years, but I know what you are talking about. NX1 above 3200 falls apart and I believe it is some stupid threshold on the coded because shooting raw the image is much more capable of coping with extremities. On the other hand, and the 16-50S where I can go to 2f from 16-24mm (24-35equiv) and 2.8f to the rest of the range, I do not need to go above 2000ISO which I am very comfortable using the camera. I am using NX1 with Ronin all the time, and the AF has never failed me (we do use some lighting for indoor shooting of course). I see Fuji doing big leaps forward, I can predict that the X-T2 will be surpassed pretty soon by another Fuji camera, sooner than previous generations, the competition is growing bigger and bigger; too bad Samsung isn't around any more to push everything a step forward.

True, my AF100 is quite old, but as great in camera 60 fps slow motion (recorded to 24 fps, so you don't have to fiddle with speed on your editor of choice). The gh4 is 1080p 60 fps (and more) and is quite affordable now

Let me respectfully suggest you're in a "forest for the trees" situation. If you want super cheap, and are truly strapped for cash, then maybe step back and consider older LUMIX cameras, speedbooster, and a old fast manual prime lens for low-light situations. I've shot numerous documentaries and projects with a variety of LUMIX M4/3 cams. As far as I'm concerned, the 60p on these cameras is fine. I really have an affinity for my GX7, for example. An effective S35 sensor area is adequate. I mean, we're talking about $500 to get all three pieces of gear; even less if you buy used. No, they're not the best low-light cameras @60p, but do-able and that price is ridiculous considering what you can accomplish. If you don't like the results it's not like you've invested a lot of cash. With those cameras, buy used and then sell used and you won't lose any money regardless. Ultimately it'll come down to your abilities with whatever gear is in hand. Certainly don't assume you are going to solve the majority of various production problems just because you own a camera that's 2 stops faster than another one. I mean, low-light-full-frame cameras are fun and all, (I do like them too) but work is work, your budget is tight, and cameras are only a small fraction of the whole process. All that said: NX1 and X-T20 tick boxes what you want, just at a higher price.

Next time, we should ask them for their portfolio

Wicked! It seems like the LS300 could be one of the sleeper cameras of the past two years.

The problem seems to be that most can't do full sensor readout at more than 25 fps, so you can either get great 4K footage from downsampling the sensor (A6300/6500), or lineskipped 1080p at up to 4x speed. Seems to be a next generation thing, as the NX1 (ahead of its time in many ways) and GH5 seem to have faster readout, so it is probably the next thing to come to Sony, though APS-C upgrades will probably have to wait till after the next FF releases. Perhaps the A7iii?

It looks like the camera is too far forward. Try moving it back and rebalance. I had a similar problem which was sorted by rebalancing. Try balancing the tilt first, with the camera pointing straight down, using the slider on the motor. Once it points straight down, move the camera backwards/forwards til it sits level. I had a similar problem where the tilt motor did the same. It was down to a front heavy camera (GH4, Sigma 10-2o, Speedbooster). The motor would hold it for a short time and then "give up". If you do the above and it still does it, it might be a faulty motor/encoder.

It can carry pretty heavy cameras. Ive used it with a 1DC, BMPC4K, 5Dmkiii, etc. It could carry a c100, fs5, etc. But yeah, not meant for a Red One MX or Arri Alexa.

@Dean sorry, I thought that you moved on! I just see the Fuji as a downgrade on a lot Of things (touch screen, DIS, I prefer a few lenses of NX, 73minutes continous video with no overheating and no extra battery grip, H265, I do not have to spend any money, as I own everything I need on the NX system) and the 16-50 2-2.8f lens is keeping me tighter to the NX system, plus the brilliant 10mm 3.5f fish eye, that I use with NX3000/NX500 instead of a gopro camera for various shoots. If anyone can answer my previous questions would be really helpful. Maybe the X-T3 will finally be there, but if you manage to use one, let us know. I have only one friend owning the camera, but I won't see him until this summer..

I can't answer that as I don't have the X-T2. I'm having a hard time deciding which camera to get The NX1 & 16-50S was outstanding I thought though for video. Never liked the stills it produced though.

Here's an awesome 90 second movie shot only with the JVC GY-LS300! This camera is slept on and it's an awesome piece of technology!

NX1 still best value for money, now with a speedbooster too! They don't make them as they used too..

How much of your frame with be VFX? The more VFX, the easier to replicate real film grain. You don't want your plate footage to be too noisy, but a little is fine. Just run a denoiser so that it's on a level playing field as the VFX.

"in my post for a hotshoe grip I remebered you showing a picture of the GX80 with the Summilux 12mm - since I am a bit curious about this lens, how is your experience with it in general? What about manual focussing, does the speed of turning the ring influences how fast the focus is changed? How goos can you do focuspulls with it? How smooth is Touch AF when you first focus on something far away and then something nearby - is it somehow seamless?" I bought the 12mm on black friday since it was 20% off. I wouldn't have bought it for full price but now I can sell it without a big loss if I want to. I usually shoot on a tripod and set focus before filming, so my style is very different from yours but I will try to answer your questions. The build is great and the image is great. I compared the lens to my 12-35mm with both set to 12mm f/2.8 and I didn't expect it to be a big difference... Although the Leica was a noticeably sharper, especially in the corners the color is what makes this lens special. The image from the Leica is beautiful with accurate reds, while the Panny lens produced an image with to much yellow. I used the same settings and WB on both and used LED's to make sure everything was equal. The Leica is also a lot wider. I will have to do more test to confirm, but the findings from my first comparison is the same that is reported with the Nocticron, probably the two best lenses for skin tones in system. I don't do much focus pulls but Nocticron and Summilux are the best manual focus lenses I have used for m43, besides mf lenses like Veydra and SLR Magic. I'm very busy the next few days, but I will see if can make to time to do some more comparisons and testing the manual focus.

Thanks! So I bought a Cosmicar 12.5mm f/1.9 c-mount lens. I previously owned the f/1.8 version of the lens. It was a pain in the ass to modify, filing down the the back edges to sit closer to the sensor. It looked nice at around f/4, it was tiny and kind of impractical. I had no idea this f/1.9 version worked without modification. and is actually pretty sharp (obviously not as sharp as more expensive modern lenses) wide open. It's also made of metal, it's larger, it doesn't look as goofy with a follow focus on it, and it feel more practical just using it today. I really love the look of it. I'm actually thinking of selling of all of my lenses except this one, my Rokinon 12mm, and my Fujinon zoom. All of these grabs are at f/1.9. I'll probably do a better lit/staged test this weekend. I also don't have the IR cut to fit my c-mount lenses yet, so excuse any muddiness.

GH5? 4k 60p, downrez ro 1080p should be amazing

A6500

Best video so far....

I have been hoping the original A7s drops also, but I gave up holding my breath! It still is, in certain circumstances, ergo low light, the way to go for the money. Not the best overall for the money I guess, but I would still kill for one LoL. And 1080p looks great on it also.

Hey Geoff, cheers for the suggestion, already considered, but a used D750 nearly costs as much as a new A7s here in Australia. Hoping to find something cheaper, closer to the $1000 price point if a camera even exists at this price... Agreed about the 1080p output. There's such good value even in the cheapest cam's like the Panasonic G7/G85 packed full of killer features with a beautiful 4K image, and once downscaled to 1080 look amazing... the menus, image stabilisation, focus peaking, ease of use, everything is unreal in these cams. Yet camera companies still can't produce an entry level camera with decent 1080 50/60p slow-mo at a reasonable price point despite most people delivering their content in 1080. I do wonder how long will it take for full frame cameras to become affordable? I can't do camcorders mate, so might have to hang out for the next release of the A7s iii series and wait for the A7s to drop in price. Thanks

Wow that has a very nice look to it! Jesus I have camera, lens lust.

Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera. Bonus points for them being Aussies too.

For some reason most of the 1080p output on DSLR's, Mirrorless FF cameras, even APSC that I have seen that have 4k on them seem to suck, no clue why, but 4k looks great down sampled to 1080p. So slow motion on them is not much to write home to mother about is what I am saying. Not many cameras in that sector have 4k slo mo over 30p. Seems dedicated Camcorders are the only thing that has great 1080p with slo mo I like. So used cameras like a Sony F3 or FS100, older Panasonic camcorders, are my picks.

@kaylee Unfortunately for the cost of printing digital onto film (huge) - then telecine/ scanning back again you would probably find it cheaper to actually shoot film in the first place, then get telecine rushes made in your edit file formats of choice and then select take scanning for higher resolution DI conforms. If you can negotiate a deal with a lab, and get very lucky - it might just still be economically viable on a lower budget (shooting 2perf for example)...but for a feature it would be very expensive to do vs shooting digital. Not sure by going through the digital-film-digital transfer process will impart the 'filmic' feel you might be after anyway, since modern processes are meant to be as clean as possible - with virtually no degradation/ grain applied to the image. The best way to achieve the film look is still to shoot on film. Alexa is the best of both worlds - filmic rendering of image directly from the camera..with the workflow convenience of digital. Grain overlays and film stock emulations are never the same as true film....but if applied correctly, can have a very good look. Nowadays it is more cost effective to shoot raw and save a decent chunk of the budget for a talented colourist to make the images emulate a 'shot on film' aesthetic...sad but often true. Perfectly working 35 & s16mm cameras can be cheaply hired or picked up on ebay for cheaper than an A7s body...but the film stock/processing/telecine/scan costs are the real killer. Here is an example of a 'cheap' telecine from 2 perf 35mm...still looks better than most digital cinema footage IMHO so if you can afford to shoot film, go for it! Edit: I still think 5D3 ML raw with some creative work in Resolve can yield some pretty damn close results to the look of film, it is why I no longer regret selling my Arri...5D3 delivers dynamic range and great colours, which are probably the hallmarks of what makes film such a good capture medium. Good couple of 5D raw / 35mm comparison shots here - and the ML version was still not as refined as it is today:

$197 in 1980 dollars is about $570 today so that's not so bad. The Iscoramas on the other hand...

This is an awesome idea. Found the PCSPECIALIST website and it seems ideal to build a laptop without having to actually put it together. Prices seem very reasonable to me on first glance. Unfortunately I probably left it too late, selling my MSI was a spur of the moment decision, so I need something someone has in stock nearby as I leave Tuesday. Might see if they can deliver Monday if I order tomorrow morning. Currently also looking at mini PC's, as I will be getting a monitor anyway and small ones can easily fit in luggage. Also the black HP Spectre x360, which is thin, fairly light and can be used in tablet mode, so it would replace all 3 of my devices (tablet, notebook and workstation laptop). I like to spend time looking so I get the best device and deal- will post the winner of best 4K portable computer when chosen. Might wait though because I checked Mac prices in Singapore and they are way cheaper than in the UK: for example £4,049.00 for the most expensive Mac Pro in UK and £3,409.57 in Singapore (approx 15% cheaper). Would rather steer clear of the c*nts at Apple though until I settle down and get an iMac. They leave people in the lurch all the time with their updates e.g. my spare monitor doesn't work with Macbook Air anymore and thousands have had the same problem for many years with no help from Apple. Microsoft make stupid decisions but I always find a way around them eventually. Edit: Found the perfect laptop: Dell XPS 15. 1TB SSD, 32GB RAM, 2GB 960M GPU, i7-6700HQ. Same screen size as my big MSI, but feels more like the size of a 13" Air. 4K touchscreen too.

I had all stabilization methods on. It's really amazing to have the in-camera stabilization for the FD lenses with a speed booster.

@Dean sorry if you have answered that before, but can you say a few cons and pros of the Fuji vs the NX1? What about the 16-50S vs a similar Fuji? For a lot of NX users, Fuji is closer to our needs than other mirrorless offerings, so I would like to hear a few words for someone that have done the "Pass-over"! Also, my impression is that there isn't any native Fuji fish eye lens, am I right? What other fish eye offerings exist? Are there any active adapters (Canon/Nikon)? Cheers.

Besides Luke, the videos released thus far have been a let down. Regarding the few points above - I do not believe one requires a 10bit monitor to see the difference. I use 8bit monitors, and my Blackmagic Pocket, when shooting 10bit 1080P ProRes HQ, absolutely decimated my Sony A7S + Shogun 4K 8bit ProRes HQ. I would bring both files into Premiere, push the grade in Lumetri, and the Blackmagic 10bit 1080P ProRes HQ held up, the A7S 4K 8bit ProRes HQ did not - banding all over the place. When I shot for Blackmagic to promote their Micro camera, I found the results even better - the new colour-science and improved sensor/ASIC showed me even more how important 10bit is. You can tell a 10bit image virtually immediately - the colours are deep, rich, have fidelity, accuracy. 8bit images always come across very "thin" and crayon-like - especially the skin-tones. I am liking the 10bit I am seeing out of the GH5, however, I do not think its true potential will be realised until we see 10bit 400Mbps for 4K, and 10bit 200Mbps for 1080P. Agreed.

Laowa is gonna be coming out with a 7.5mm lens for m43. Footage on YouTube. Also, Panasonic will be coming out with a 8mm-18mm f2.8-4. But it will be expensive, gonna have Leica branding. To go wider than 12mm right now there are the 2 Olympus zooms and a Panasonic zoom. The Samyang lens made for mirrorless and some other options which are a bit more niche. I'd wait for the Laowa. They said it will be competitively priced but who knows. You might want to look at the Sigma 30mm f1.4 instead of the 25mm f1.4. Adorama has the Sigma for $339 and the Panasonic for just under $600. I'd prefer the Sigma. Actually, I'd prefer the 20mm f1.7 to both of them as I prefer that focal length on m43 and you can get that used really cheap.

I found the exact opposite with the a6500 and the a6300... it was night and day. I've found the a6500 to be as good as the GX85's IBIS... other than quick movements... but the Panasonic doesn't do them that great either... just less RS. Of course I've only used non-stabilized, vintage manual glass with both, so it may not be a fair comparison.

Here's one:

I shot some high contrast scenes to test out what's the maximum dynamic range you can achieve without F-Log.

Many seem happy with 8-bit C100/C100ii. 10-Bit is nice but not an end all spec for everyone. I might get a GH5 for sure but it probably wont have built in NDs, camcorder form factor, dual phantom powered XLRs, etc, etc. Many get the FS7 for an all in one + slowmo and don't necessarily care about the 10-bit. Also a big chance (imo) that the 10-bit GH5 is just in HD and the 4K is 8-bit 4:2:2. The LS also has 4K 4:2:2