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Thank you for your interest. actually the 30mm electric motor is powerful enough, I use it with anamorphot lens that weighs over 300 grams without problems, but more than 600 grams could start giving problems, which is why I want to build a system with guides in linear bearings, for reduce friction and facilitate sliding of the lens. No, NXL-A is the best full frame Canon lens control system for directors and film makers who shoot with Samsung nx1 camera. It also keeps them alive yet these cameras ... It will be ready in about two weeks and I'll build a dumb NXL version with the predisposition for the hardware and an already modified version.

I read somewhere that the NX mount is based on K-mount since Samsung used to partner with Pentax and a lot of their earlier cameras were cheaper Pentax knock offs down to the sensor. Samsung apparently had a prototype of the K-mount that supposedly had Autofocus etc here is a picture of it. Is it not easier to adapt the Pentax K-mount to the NX with autofocus?? I know majority wants Canon but lets face it, autofocus might not be the greatest on it if any at all. and at the end of the day Pentax is still in the business making cameras and lenses, Samsung is not.

I'm tired of hearing about how Metabones Holy Grail adapter. I've had it with Sony A7s, I sold both for continuous camera crash, slow autofocus and always not accurate autofocus. These are the technical problems of Metabones listed on the official website: "Limitations: Autofocus Continuous AF and video AF are not supported. (Performance may be unsatisfactory.) AF may not work if the maximum aperture of the lens plus any EF Extender or other teleconverter attached is smaller than f/8. The first two autofocus attempts are used to calibrate the lens and as a result may not lock successfully on the target. Half-press the shutter release button again and autofocus will lock successfully. Autofocus may have difficultly locking onto subjects which are very close to the nearest focusing distance of the lens. Autofocus accuracy depends heavily on the design and working condition of the lens. Lenses with hidden problems which may not be apparent on Canon DSLRs will lead to inaccurate and unreliable autofocus on Sony NEX. Typical problems of this kind that we have seen include an unsmooth/erratic autofocus mechanism (e.g. getting stuck intermittently at a certain focusing distance), a faulty/worn-out distance encoder or other faulty/worn-out internal sensors. Other No support for lens corrections such as peripheral shading, CA and distortion. The EF-mount lens may make audible noises during iris changes and autofocus, wich may be picked up by the built-in microphone of the camera during video recording. Use of an external microphone is advised. Early Tamron VC lenses such as the AF 28-300/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Aspherical [IF] Macro (model A20), AF 18-270/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] MACRO (model B003), SP AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II VC LD Aspherical [IF] (model B005) may not be able to freely switch between OIS and IBIS because they may not report IS activity status. Later Tamron VC lenses equipped with USD or PZD focus motors are fine. Some aftermarket battery grips may cause the aperture to change erraneously. This is a bug of the aftermarket battery grip but NOT arising from the Metabones Smart Adapter. Turn off the aftermarket battery grip or use a genuine Sony battery grip." The adapter I have in mind, it works perfectly with all lenses, regardless of the protocol used. It turns every lens in a lens autofocus, including Samyang lenses, Cine, M42, Nikon and over all in autofocus lenses. It works perfectly even in video mode, where Metabones can not do! Besides the AF it IS Canon Stabilizer (OIS it's Samsung) and Aperture Control. Finally the lens donor is not cannibalized but remains convertible to return to Samsung original state. I paid 100 euro a 30mm f.2 now costs more than 300 EUR! If you think that spending 400/500 euro for an adapter kit like this is too much, I think you did not know the counts. Make an order of 1,000 pieces and I can build it for half the price. You can also buy Nikon camera EUR 500, but if it mounts a lens of 100 EUR you have not solved anything!

BMCC or BMPC4k, depends.

bmcc raw

As I understand the Samsung cameras are extremely sought after right now including their hardware that is why prices keep rising, because they are becoming rarer and rarer and its mostly because of this forum right now and the great guys behind the bitrate hack and Luca's adapter and work in progress smart adapter. Not to mention Samsung NX1 and NX500 imao are still amazing cameras and they are cheap well used to be anyway. Its a good sign because now that dirty "&()!"%)¤ acting president of Samsung aka Son of Samsung's actual president, is in jail and that means there will be a brighter future for Samsung now that the corrupt bastards are removed.

Digital stabilization 1080p, wow so exciting (for us)

Get a 70D then Already has DPAF and Magic Lantern raw. As of nearly 2 years ago. http://www.eoshd.com/2015/04/magic-lantern-now-working-on-canon-70d-both-versions/ I'd rather they cracked the EOS M5 or M6 anyway, as the mirrorless form factor is better suited to video.

Lucabutera I like your idea and I have a nx 30mm please continue your experiments its wild to think that we may be able to use for example a old Jupiter lens, Nikon Manual lens etc. and have touch auto-focus?!! If the 30mm works as a host lens perhaps any pancake NX would work (16mm 20mm) If you figure this out for us this may be your million dollar Idea... You would just have to hunt through all camera makers for a host lens and create an adapter universal autofocus adapter for.. Sony, Canon, Panasonic etc... Be not discouraged Your our only hope!

I am curious why you think it would be more of a 'perfect' Magic Lantern raw video candidate than the 5D Mark IV or 80D or even EOS M6. There's nothing even unique about the 77D, even within the Canon range. I can't speak for them but Magic Lantern would probably prefer to crack the 5D Mark IV before touching the most uninspired, basic, boring camera on the planet. 77D is practically the same camera as the 80D. I am shocked it even exists. The "5 axis stabilisation" is a con... it is the same old lens IS plus a digital crop, which softens the image even more. I can think of a million other cameras that are more interesting from a technology point of view. It's not even that cheap!

Wow that is a pretty big negative you kind of have to avoid LoL. Yikes.

Agreed! My d5300 paired with a 28mm e series is a cool look too! But I must say after seeing all kinds of YouTube videos with handheld gimbals, IBIS, it seems like if Nikon doesn't produce something with that, my next body won't be a Nikon.

Yes, you can clone the motherboard, but this requires the construction of many units and would also make it also necessary to build the electric motor and the gear housing. The original motherboard is a single hardware component, consisting of table, engine, gearbox and sensors that operate the MF when turning the focus ring. This adapter would be very fast to found the focus, as the original Samsung lens because the camera would work with a 100% Samsung hardware. The good news is that the conversion would be reversible, the original parts would remain operational if reassembled like the original lens. This becomes a better investment, because it does not sacrifice the original samsung lens.

Hello guys ! After a few days using the rx100 v in the lovely city of Prague for a long weekend, I decided to keep this little camera. The overheating issue was non-existent there (of course it was freezing outside and I used the manual mode/single autofocus which seems to work better for better battery life and less overheating) and the footage you can shoot with is amazing. I'll try to post some soon. Once again the continuous autofocus is so snappy and convenient for that type of situations (grabing short shots on the fly). My post is more of a request to Sony. I noticed that in 100/120fps mode, you don't have access to the autofocus settings (sensitivity, speed) and apparently the phase detection is disabled. It makes the autofocus in that mode sooooo slow ! Even slower than what you had with the mk IV in 25fps. No face detection, no nothing. It's very unfortunate I think. I hope Sony could fix it with a firmware update because the autofocus is so slow that it almost looks like a bug. The only thing that makes me think it's not, is the autofocus settings greyed out in that mode. I wanted to do slow mo/gimbal shots with my rx100 and I'll be limited to 60fps for now (the autofocus works in 50/60fps). So please Sony, make this wonderful autofocus work with 120fps mode !

Don't know if posting things I didn't make but I found interesting here.... please remove if its a problem Crazy video you have to watch it forward and backwards to get it completely .... Reverse version(forward)

I should have used the term 'YUV chroma smearing' ...it's been a while. Here are two link where Lpowell explains about it. http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?340370-Exposing-V-LOG-L&p=1986578386&viewfull=1#post1986578386 http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?340370-Exposing-V-LOG-L&p=1986578534&viewfull=1#post1986578534

Which video? The one you posted? I don't know my video above uses the new DLog yes

Talking pure image quality, I'd say: 5D Raw BMCC/BMPCC Raw Digital Bolex Nothing else in that range competes with those based on anything I've seen. Ergonomics / usability is a whole different matter.

In addition to the suggestions above, you might consider a used camera: the Digital Bolex; the Sony F3 (w/4:4:4 capability); the Sony FS700 (w/raw recorder); or a KiniMini refurb. Also, I've heard good things about the DJI X5R.

5d III RAW

I don't get it... What has white balance to do with macroblocking? All I am seeing in those extreme gradings above is color banding, which is normal after such a push in post. Macroblocking is a compression artifact...

Well there are plenty of parts available online to build one from scratch. I am sure if you are skilled enough, or a friend down in their moms basement, it surely can be done. I don't see why some wiz kid can't improve on any of them if you figure out a way to get into the brain of them. The better Gimbals now are all 32bit, so they can be programed with a lot more logic to them now.

Get a front clamp and a diopter (+1 are easy to find and quite cheap)

Find a plastic, insulated beer cozie and attach a small tripod plate to it... I think Sima makes a really small one that locks pretty nicely... or just a 1/4in screw... or probably a small ball head would be your best bet. Or get a plastic coffee mug that is just wider than a beer bottle and get a foam rubber beer cozie to slide inside the coffee mug for a tight fit. Drill a hole through the plastic coffee mug to attach that small Giottos ball head. Keep the hole close to the coffee mug handle so you can steady the mug as the talent picks up the beer to open it. But probably the easiest of solutions would be to get a GoPro Hero 5, shoot in 2.7K 60p ProTune for slow motion of the bottle caps being opened and then just use a lightweight Velcro GoPro strap to attach it to each beer bottle.

What 'liberties' did Neumann or Pampuri take to create macro blocking? All they did was share ungraded ooc footage.

Since you like 16mm shooting, use the 4K ETC crop mode on the GH5 to get a 4K to 3.6k S16 window for your S16 lenses

You have to go into stills mode, do single-shot AF-S on your subject then hit the video record button (with 1080/120p set in the menus) Whilst it is recording, AF won't track the subject. I agree with the OP, Sony should try and get phase-detect AF working with 120fps... Can't see why it shouldn't!

Zhiyum Crane, I have tested with Olympus 25mm and Speedbooster+Sigma 8-16mm. It´s works really well.

@lucabutera You say: This sounds really exciting...Remarkable capabilities, because there is NOT something comparable on the market. Two questions on this claim: Does this mean, if you touch your NX display for getting focus during video/still shooting (="touch focus" feature of the NX system), even a Samyang lens would be able to auto focus on the point you touched to? Will your adapter have an EF mount to adapt lenses or some other mount? When reading your statement above, I believe (when assuming that the adapter would have all the capabilities you described in this forum) this will be one of the most exciting/revolutionary adapters on the market, tranforming the NX1 in an "universal AF-lens camera". This would be for sure an unique feature from AF point of view... Unfortunately we all have to wait ( as you say, about 2 months) for the completion of the project. I am very curious about AF speed and accuracy of your EF-2-NX-AF-adapter, when used with different EF lenses...Keep on your good work and innovative spirit...(But try to not react that irritated, when people ask different questions or reveal their thoughts...They want simply to evaluate and discuss as many aspects as possible...)

Funny that you're asking about this technique, I was just barely reading about it, browsing reddit earlier today some dude shot a cool little John Wick-like action piece in his apartment by himself, rocked a little snorricam, someone linked to this video in the comments, obviously pretty DIY, but maybe good enough to at least get some test shots.

Oh yeah definitely. It's pretty known that sLog3 does not play well with 8 bit, but in certain shots... it is amazing. slog2 has similar problems on occasion but again I feel the pros outweigh the cons in most instances... Back OT... GH5 RULES!!!

Jesus they would sell more than they could make! Oh I would not put it past BM to do it though. I am going on 70 years old so everything when I was young, and not so young, was all film based. I started with a 8mm movie film camera as a teenager making car chase movies, gangster style with a old 39 4 door Ford. We laughed till we nearly peed our paints doing that stuff. Nothing beats the look of film, nothing. But you are right for what money the average person can afford the BMPCC, BMCC is as good as it gets to the look we all crave. It is a great editing learning tool also.

You can't shoot everything wide open at f1.8 or less and expect to get much in focus. That is where the Sony A7s shines. He can shoot at f5.6 and get stuff in focus without worrying if he blew the whole thing focus wise. That is a hell of a great luxury to have as an option. MFT in a bar at night is not my idea of hog heaven, especially using a f1.2 lens. IBIS only helps you with motion blur, not lens focus. But true like you said you can shoot lower ISO. But it's not like Sony doesn't have stabilized lenses. What would really be nice if we had the money to have 4 or 5 camera systems. Nobody has the perfect camera, or if that was the case we would not need to be on here! I would not really like to use the A7s all the time in reality. The sucky battery life, limited recording time what like 12 minutes, no internal 4k, kind of on the small size, no IBIS on the first one, etc.

Actually, one thing. If you need high ISOs, it doesn't mean the lighting sucks, it just means it is low. I want to be able to take photos when I want, not just half the day. I would hate to go to many shows or gigs or restaurants ETC where the light was bright. It would destroy the atmosphere a lot of the time. Having better high ISOs just means you can shoot longer or with faster shutter speeds.

Sometimes I can not go UNDER ISO 3200! I had the luxury of a gig on Friday night that the highest I needed was ISO 8000. 6400 is nothing these days with the better FF cameras. For M4/3 though it is currently a stop to far most of the time.

I think it's Bloom who said it in his blog. I'm really enjoying the A6500 at the moment, and even chose it ahead of my FS5 for a shoot this week. The 4K image is pretty special sauce. Better than the FS5's internal 4K. The IBIS is super useful. The autofocus is great, awesome for a gimbal. Just wish it had 4k60p. This peaks my interest in the GH5 - as I expect the experience to be similar, and better in some aspects. Its one of them though. I'm totally covered with my Sony's. No colour issues. Got past that. I'll keep watch of the GH5 but new cameras and gizmos are way, way down my priority list. Making stuff is No.1

If you want AF S lenses, you must use S lenses, please do not insist on this point. The adapter has an independent motor so if you want to see its performance, inform you about the features of the Samsung 30mm f2 lens. The Canon Stabilizer works with power of Pin, I can connect a micro Arduino to control the iris. I think there is deep enough to mount Canon EF lenses, the gearbox is 9mm thick, this is close to the Canon pin and could be an obstacle but I am optimistic. It is not very difficult to disassemble and replace the lens with an instruction manual, but it is possible to commission the work to any repairer of electronic equipment.

So just to clarify the OP's request... will you be filming your daughter's dancing primarily at recitals? I think without a doubt you would want a zoom lens. Sure in most instances primes are better but for your purposes, I would only recommend a zoom. Since you would like some nice bokeh, you need either a fast zoom or an f/2.8 speedboosted. For the filmic look you are after, I would certainly recommend one of three lenses... 1. Sigma 18-35mm with two adapters... the Metabones speedbooster and a Metabones electronic... this way you will double your zoom range with the one lens and depending upon where you are set up, you can choose the proper adapter accordingly. 2. Nikon Nikkor 28-70 f/2.8... the Bourne Lens... speedbooster and dummy adapter. 3. Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8... Angenieux design... speedbooster and dummy adapter. There are various other zooms that will work for your specified needs... the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 with a speedbooster would be lovely. Vintage Nikkor zooms. Canon L FD or EF zooms speedboosted. But honestly... if you are after a filmic look, I wouldn't get the GH5 and the native primes or zooms. The GH5 is going to be an amazing camera and there will be amazing work produced with it and some of that work will look filmic, but it will take work to get there. I personally believe you can acquire what you are looking for with a better suited camera to your needs. For instance, if you are really interested in the filmmaking aspect of the project, then I would recommend either a BMPCC or a BMMCC. If you are interested in a good looking video with good colors and ease of use with great AF, I would recommend either the Canon 5d Mk IV or a C100ii. The Sigma 18-35mm will work brilliantly with Canon's DPAF (dual pixel auto focus) and your footage will thank you in the long run. This was shot by fellow forum member @Kubrickian with a Canon C100 mkii. Now he is a pro, but if I were in your shoes, with your budget, this is the route I would take.

Also, keep in mind these are OoC JPEGs, not video frame grabs. Different sampling, processing, and compression applies.

Ironically, it takes powerful lights to create the contrast ratio necessary for a traditional "dark horror" look. Horror sets aren't dark at all to the naked eye.

When I started to think about building a smart autofocus adapter, I asked you if you preferred the Techart Pro adapter or Aputure Dec AF. Almost all of you have responded Techart Pro, and in fact, to have an autofocus system that works with all lenses that's cool! So I started to think what could be a fast way to have it in the real world and not in the world of dreams .. The 30mm f2 pancake is long 21.5mm (half a millimeter longer of adapter Nikon/NX), it has no buttons OIS, Zoom or another, it's just a fixed lens which has two functions: 1) Autofocus 2) Iris. These characteristics make it the perfect candidate to become an AF adapter. First I ceck the range of focus, it is 6mm (Techart Pro it's only 4,5mm). After I disassembled the rear flange, I raised the board and looked inside, the electric motor is positioned laterally and all the gears rotate the rear part of the ferrule, the main gear is located in the rear part of the lens, and this is good, why not cluttered and provides more space for mounting the front lens. Inside there is the motor for the opening of the iris and is parallel to the support cylinder for glasses. In general, having taken the measurements, I can state that it is possible to convert the lens in a 30mm AF adapter. if there is enough space, you can install the pin Canon EF mount on the front of the commands to activate Stabilizer and Aperture Iris with micro Arduino. Up to here I made simple but to obtain an AF adapter is necessary to construct a new outer ring of aluminum with two or three linear bearings to support the weight of the new lenses, build a new internal support in aluminum with front flange of the lens assembly and perhaps replace some plastic with new gears in aluminum gear. The width of engagement Nikon is ok, but the width of the Canon is greater, then I have to redesign the whole body. Such a change could cost about 400 euro, this could be a bargain for those with a 30mm, but considering the prices soared Samsung lenses may exceed 650 euro for a complete adapter. Having a third-party adapter with AF lenses is possible. This is only one of the possibilities, I have other ideas and solutions to build AF adapter. I wrote this post to know from you what you think.

Welp. everyone's gotta start somewhere. As they say, "There's no such thing as a dumb question..." Just because a question might betray someone's comprehension of things doesn't make the question in of itself ridiculous. After all, learning about this stuff now will lead to a better skill set down the line. Here's some 101 level info I found quickly using the world wide web information super highway search engine provided by google.com: http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/camera-panning-speed

You guys are so restrained and polite I am impressed.

That it doesn't look anything like compression artifacts in my experience. It looks like motion blur. OP: Shoot the exact same shots and use a tripod. Don't move the camera. Upload those images. If the "ghosting" is there, you can start worrying.

So er, I found the problem. There's a tiny button at the bottom of the Tascam DR100 Mk.II where you can switch between 'Mic/Line1' - I switched it to Mic and it works perfectly now. Basically, this:

@lucabutera Thank you for answering! Unfortunately I can only help by 1. Buying the adapter when completed and 2. After buying, doing some tests with many "rare" EF lenses when used with the NX1. It's a crazy world...Innovative, enthusiastic and technically talented people like you outrange world wide acting global companies...Creative spirit, innovation and enthusiasm wishing the floor with the "fat cats" of the digital imaging industry...You made my day... ;-)

Totally doable, Ive seen it happen on other forums many times. Logistically its not a problem, they would still ship individually. And I've also done what you did by emailing. I asked a retailer in Sweden if I could get $500 of on the A7sii because they had earlier had such a discount. They said yes. So these "limited" time discounts aren't ver limited at all.

Premiere Pro doesn't have the built-in color tools necessary for working in a log space. That's something I might be able to correct in the future. I know a lot of people use Premiere.