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When you buy and sell used camera gear you need to be careful. A lot of stolen stuff floats around and markets like eBay makes it easy for them to disappear. That’s why a service like Stolen Camera Finder is a godsend. http://www.stolencamerafinder.com/ I recently bought a Leica T. A lovely camera. For street shooting I would say its the best camera I’ve ever used. Totally in love! But this is not about the camera. The price was fine, the seller had a long history, everything seemed legit. He even provided the serial number.When I got it home I tested it out and everything was fine. The day after I had to leave for a tripp and I naturally brought the camera. It was not until I got home that I remembered that I should just do a routine check of the number on Stolen Camera Finder. Why I didn’t do this beforehand, like I usually do is beyond me… Stolen Camera Finder works by crawling the internet and sites like Flickr, registering EXIF Data. In many cameras the unique serial number of the camera and lens are imbedded in the data. You then simply drag-n-drop an image on the site or enter the number manually. If the crawler gets a match its BINGO! You can: Find a stolen camera Report a found camera Checkout previous owners of camera Track stolen and reposted images So What Happened? I entered the number manually and… Bingo! It had been reported stolen in Spain two years ago. So I filed a report of a “Camera Found” and waited for a day or two. Since I didn’t hear anything I contacted Matt, who runs the site. He has now put me in touch with the original owner who lives in Italy and we are working out the details on how it will be returned! All in all I will probably loose a bit of money since the seller probably wont pay up and/or used a fake name etc. But I will certainly gain a bit on my “Feel Good Account”. And at the end of the day, I would love it if the same thing happened to me if anything ever got stolen. A bit of a sunshine story imo (now back to searching for a new Leica T, like its slogan says, "Easy to use, Hard to forget".)

Test Panasonic LUMIX GH5 180fps Profile 709L , ISO 800 , cloudy (low light) Sigma 18-35, handheld

I'm probably very late to this but prompted by a discussion in another thread about editing on a MacBook I thought I'd flag up what I've been using as an additional monitor when editing. As you can see here, I'm using my iPad Mini in FCPX as the Secondary Display using an app called Duet which was developed by some ex-Apple staff. Basically, it allows you to use any (and multiple) iOS devices connected to the USB port to increase the screen real estate of your MacBook (and any OSX machine actually) when running the Duet app on your Mac. OSX just sees them as additional screens so you can arrange and orient them anyway you like just as you would normal additional monitors. And because you aren't dealing with big monitors on stands, you can quickly reconfigure your setup depending on what you're doing. For example, if I'm using Aperture, I'll have the iPad on the left of the screen with all the tools on it and the main MacBook screen just having the image I'm editing. Also, unlike proper external monitors, you can take them with you easily. So if you're away somewhere and you have your iPad (or even your iPhone) then you can setup a dual screen system wherever you are. Or a tri screen system if you can borrow someone else's iPad there! I attach mine using the Ten One Design Mountie which at £20 is a bit harsh for some plastic and rubber but it works well. Other types are available cheaper on Amazon. The Duet app is £14.99 on the app store and the OSX control app is a free download. So, all in all, £34.99 to turn what you might well already have in your bag (or your pocket if its an iPhone) into an additional monitor is decent value. https://tenonedesign.com/mountie.php https://www.duetdisplay.com

Duet Display also works under Windows, I've used it in the past.

I've sent Samsung support in the UK (and Norway for that matter) an e-mail describing the issue. I'll post their reply here when I get it

Well the new firmware has certainly improved the AFC hunting of my 27mm. It now only sounds mildly asthmatic. Initial thoughts about the rest of it are : Refocussing works well off the AF-L button (which I have remapped to be AF-ON) Histogram is welcome but they could've pushed the boat out and put zebras in. The new Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display mode is great for weaning myself off the traditional DSLR chimping method. I actually quite like the playback through EVF method as its a boon in bright lighting but most of my work means you still have to keep one eye on whats going on around you when you're looking and marking images so being detached from that by having the camera to your eye isn't always a good thing. Its a bit niche but the voice memo function is a boon for anyone doing editorial work with it. Copyright in the EXIF ditto. I'm going to test the face detect AF tomorrow......

Just got my GH5 (earlier than I expected) so I ordered VLog today and it should be here Monday. I'm going to do a head to head test with the UM46K.

Well if you're going to bring facts into it John..... DOH !!!! Thanks

Same principle applies to all gimbals. People look at weight on a spec sheet as if that is the all-deciding factor. I just wish that gimbal companies would be more honest in their sales pitches. Yes, there are a million and one combinations of lenses and bodies but there are only a few dozen very common combinations of cameras and lenses that they should list as compatible or non compatible. The DS1 will not accept all manner of A7s2 combos without massive compromises - like the 16-35 f4 smashing against the back of the unit. When these were being shown off on YouTube by the makers, people were asking about that combination (myself included) and the answer would be: "Yes, it should work" and then they would quote the weight limitations as if that was all the evidence needed. What they should have said is: "Don't buy the unit until we have tested that extremely common combination of camera body and wide angle lens. Yes, it is within the weight limit but we cannot guarantee the ease of balance due to the front heavy distribution of weight. We have tested your camera with 'these lenses' and can confirm that it works perfectly" When people began reporting issues with that combination they backtracked to the position that I stated above. Why can't people say "We haven't got a clue, mate" instead of "It should do"?

Rinad Amir, you are just a troll, most probably a teen troll who has still not learn how to be polite with others, but let`s focus in the positive, you are still young and probably you will learn during your life time what your parents couldn`t teach you in your early years, really, stop been so pedantic and learn how to behabe from more experience members in this forum…..

Sorry for starting up another GH5 thread but figured this could focus on test footage/your first go with the camera. Here's mine - got it today, had 10mins of light left after work so took the kids to the park. A mix of 4K 50p and 180fps VFR, daylight WB, iso 200, Sigma 50mm on Speedbooster XL, Natural profile. Shot mainly wide open. No ND filter so controlled exposure with high shutter speed. PRO's so far: Options galore, amazing build, EVF/LCD= amazing. Picture looks GOOD! IBIS = incredible! CON's so far: Annoying sensor that flicks from EVF to LCD (can this be turned off?). Biggest con for me is not being able to flick to 180fps quickly. Had to dig into the menu every time. Really hope this can be assigned to a Function button but doesn't look like it so far. Grrr. I'm a GH4 and A7Sii user so looking forward to comparing. Be hard to beat a7sii but this beast might just do it!

Just wait a bit, there are plenty of people here that will have it soon and test it inside and out, so you'll have your questions answered. Wait for the reports to see if the quality control is good. Maybe you like the GH5 enough to buy instead of rent it? Maybe a GH5 buyer will sell it to you after he decides he needs more then 6400 iso?

Hi there, I own both the lenses, just received my 12-60 a week ago. Long story short: the 12-40 is going away. I had an EM5 II with the 12-40 and I was happy for still (using flash indoor), but got very disappointed with video quality (a body proble). The 12-40 is unbalanced on the EM5 II, too front heavy for me. I had to add the optional grip. Then I got a g85, superhappy with video (and still) quality with both the 12-40 and the 14-140 (dual is2 is great), but the reach of yhe 12-40 was not enough for everyday use, and I was often preferring the 35-100 (an other great lens). I gave it a go at this new panaleica, and I am definitely satisfied with it. Same quality, longer reach, much better balanced (even on the EM5II), same size, but so much better at video. The zoom ring is supersmooth, the aperture change is unnoticable in video. the 12-60 feels less like a tank, but is very well built. The only thing I personally don't like is the colder colors with respect to the 12-40. But it is fixable somehow with in camera processing. Ot really depends on what you need, but for me the 12-60 is a clear winner, and with dual is2 it is going to stay glued to the g85.

I'm afraid those Manfrottos are junk and definitely not a real 'fluid head' - I had the 503 and hated it...now have a Vinten Vision Blue and it is a huge difference. More expensive but you kind of get what you pay for with tripods, as mentioned above get the very best you can afford - it will last many cameras so long as you get a decent one from the start. Lack of weight may be an issue with gh4, most tripods have a minimum weight needed to get true balance. Your budget is too low for any real quality but you may be able to get a used head fromMiller or Vinten or Sachtler if you can stretch your budget a bit more

Stab, yes, you're largely correct. When you see the hand (sounds scary ;)), that is the IBIS, sensor-based system. If you couple that with a Panasonic OIS lens that is equipped to work with IBIS, then you get the IBIS2 and "DUAL 2" shows up in your VF/LCD. DUAL 2 is simply IBIS2...not sure why they don't call it that. Now adding e-stabilization is an additional electronic (not sensor-based stabilization) that lays over the IBIS. That's where the sensor cropping occurs. You'll have to see if the cropping vs the additional stabilization is worth it. At least as it's implemented in the G85, I don't see much of a difference with E-stabilization. The good thing is there's no IQ deterioration with it engaged.

You do, it's just that that's how VLog L is specified according to the white paper apparently, the other profiles use the full 10bit.

2017, and we're still not getting real 10bit from the billion dollar tech giants. Blackmagic for the win.

Yeah, I figured you would say something like that. But true, I am a Old Man.

It really is a case of spend as much as you can afford. I went through several cheap tripods and heads (including Manfrotto) before buying a Miller Air (not expensive by tripod standards but certainly not "cheap"). It's a super piece of gear.

I had never heard of this webiste before, thank you. If the seller doesn't refund you, contact Ebay and they almost certainly will.

To be honest, I think each person has the right to re-evaluate his next camera purchase, certainly GH5 was the only option just a month ago for many people, since there was nothing similar in the market, but now with the new Canon rumors, if at least part of them are true, like crop reduction and C-log, 5dmkiv could be really a good option for a lot of people, and certainly most of these people will not have the option to purchase both systems, therefore a delay in their purchase decision until real information is available is a logical step in order to spend their money in the system which better fit their shooting style.

At several differnt location I have been told by people who had the prototype cameras that Like709 was the way to go unless I was recording to an external recorder, then V Log L. Question, Slashcam.de has shown that VLog on the GH5 is truncated so has only half the expeted bits depth . Like709 is not supposed to be truncated. Is the external VLog feed truncated?

Ha - that's what my gimbal looked like after trying to balance the 28mm f2.

The colours are different and possibly more pleasing than the other profiles. The "knee" is adjustable (highlight rolloff) so there's the potential for retaining more dynamic range than the standard profiles. Plus you get to use all of the 1024 bits, whereas V-Log is truncated. But, to date, nobody has shown comparisons extensive enough to draw any solid conclusions on colour and dynamic range. There is a handful of tantalising vids on YouTube that merely hint at its potential.

@Turboguard But deciding is not only the weight but also how it is distributed. If it is a long and heavy lens, the momentum will be too big for the Crane to compensate. The Sigma is 12cm long and weighs 800g-ish, in comparison it's impossible to balance a Samyang 35mm 1.4 which is 11cm long and 750g on a Sony A6300. The video Axel linked to shows in my opinion that this is just a odd setup. He had to use x things to weighten down the camera, then even tape additional weights to the gimbal to balance it. If you have seen videos where people used Canon 6D cameras and alike, you know it won't be as smooth but have more quirks in the balancing. Plus you now get to weight levels where I would really prefer a two handed gimbal because I doubt you will be able to hold this for any reasonable amount of time.

I think because its canon. and the price point its at, the 5D4 should have always been better then the gh5 from the start. At least as good video wise. The suppose update is just catching it up to what it should have been released with. Even so, it'll still be monster. With a monster price tag and monster size compaired to the gh5 and m43.

Lol The Scottish and Irish accents on females are intoxicating. Nothing beats the Welsh, mind.

new firmware V2.0 is out! Finally we have live histogram in video, Auto ISO , manual ISO change in video while recording, EVF-LCD switch while recording, ISO change via Front Wheel (no audible clicks anymore) ...very nice upgrade. Now, give us internal Flog and i am happy ....

Not exactly your situation but similar... The battery indicators on my X-Pro2 are extremely unreliable. If I'm photographing a long event, think wedding, when I'm using two cameras but not using one for a while I'll turn it off when it's hanging over my shoulder and turn it back on in the same movement on as I raise it to my eye. I've nailed this technique so I don't lose any time doing it. I don't find the actual battery life too bad, and it is pretty consistent - but yeah, the indicators are not all that.

1. Create a new sequence by dragging and dropping a file with the settings you want (4k 10 bit) into the empty timeline area. Or onto the "new item" icon at the bottom right corner of the project window. The sequence will match the footage settings of that file. 2. Just right click the clip in the timeline window, select "scale to frame size." This also works nicely if putting 4k footage onto a 1080 timeline. Another option if you wanted to get carried away is Red Giant's plugin called "Instant 4k". When you export one of the check boxes is "use maximum render quality" which improves the scaling.

You have to switch the camera to manual photo mode, then the 1/3-stop increment option will be available in the menu.

Yes I got the new sleeve for the Baby Hypergonar. With the Rangefinder and Vari-ND filter, it becomes a very front heavy setup. I find I can go with 35mm as widest, with the Vari-ND I get a lot of vigenette. I tried a 28mm but it just was too much. I hope to get the CoreDNA when it's available in June, and then test it out again.

His reviews seem fair and comprehensive, and I think he cares about his reputation as his channel grows.

Interesting spreadsheet for camera battery life From Lens Rentals. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UvrpF_MvcadJAv_YjfyaNtP-FCkM8TGjZ0Xp-pnIAcY/edit#gid=0

I can't balance it with g7. That lens is just too heavy compared to the smaller cams and makes it too front heavy.

The GH5 has only been out a week, relax. Of course Metabones will update the firmware, but it probably takes more than five business days. The Lens Turbo is a dumb adapter, there shouldn't be any issues at all.

Yes it is another level entirely. So much stronger signal from the sensor, less noise pollution = better colour. They have 3D colour processing onboard as well which is usually something you only find on a high-end colourist's GPU

I recently purchased the a6500 around Christmas time and as others have said on this thread the image quality coming out of this camera is to me is unreal. Granted, I've only had the Panasonic G7 before hand; I haven't had the experience of shooting with cinema bodies. But below are some still frames from a wedding I shot this past weekend.

Agreed Jonpais!...he all did a slow mo test you may find interesting as you and I both find him a valuable information source... just pre-ordered mine today...won't get it till end May early June, but very happy that the whole process has started. @Fredrik Lyhne...would very much appreciate a few words of your impression of the Leica 12-60 when you've had some time with it...I already have the 12-60 but in the US where my camera will come from, they don't offer the Kit you bought...won't have my GH5 for another couple of months but bought this lens specially for the GH5...thanks in advance and feel free to PM if you prefer...

I think the buzz around it is a good thing as it's making people who've got one get excited and get out there shooting and making the people who haven't got one take a good look at what they HAVE got and by and large think "I can live with what I've got. I'll buy some lights instead" Everyone wins like that. With regard to the AF100, if Panasonic refresh the HVX200 (which is a GH4 with a lens) with the GH5 sensor at NAB then it will have some serious attention for anyone with rig and jig fatigue

Avenger and Kupo are both good bets; in fact, I've heard rumblings that some Avenger products are rebranded Kupo gear. Can't say for sure though. If you can get reasonable shipping from any seller for either, I'd recommend going that route. And @tupp, generally you are correct. In this instance, I'd say the Kupo combo stand is lighter duty than any junior I've ever used. Great for its price, but not as sturdy as a good junior imo. Ymmv

100% agreed. I start getting nervous when I have to go to 3200 on 5D3 MLRAW, so the fact that that 3200 on the GH5 is more than adequate absolutely delights me. Pop a Speedbooster on there, as has been mentioned many times, and it's outperforming a full frame camera. What kills me with 5D3 noise is the very low frequency banding which looks entirely unnatural. The GH5 noise, on the other hand, just looks grainy - and that's fine.

The answer was regarding if peaking was a break dealer like DPAF, it is not, is it a great feature?, yes of course, but anyone can live without it with relativity no big issues, DPAF in the other hand is an amazing tool for docs and run&gun, if I am going to shoot a doc I want it, can I shoot the doc without it?, sure, but the quantity of pressure and work you put out of your shoulders is a lot....no shoot lost due to bad focus, that's just fantastic!!! If I am more oriented to fiction, then probably Canon is not the right tool, I use a Red One for that kind of shooting......and I would love an ARRI Now, I could not be more less excited about the GH5, is it a great tool?, sure, for the right people and projects, will I use it?, no way, I have Canon glasses, I don`t want to use a metabones, and if the rumors are true, at least part of it, like reduction of the crop factor and C-log, I will choose a 5Dmkiv over a GH5 any day of the week.

If it was true (which I'm 99% sure it's not), we would probably see a new "worst rolling shutter" champion, dethroning the a6300. The 5D iv has quite bad RS, reading out even more of the sensor will make it even worse. Also how would they suddenly manage downscaling and and XF-AFC (does that mean XF-AVC I guess?) with the same processors and encoders that only managed 1:1 read out and MJPEG so far? Not even the C700 can downscale but uses windowed mode if you use a resolution but full sensor raw and that thing is huge, expensive and has active cooling. Which is the last point: "installing a new heat sink". Like what? Do you think Canon left a huge empty space in the 5D iv body just so eventually a year down the line they can install a bigger heat sink? Sounds completely fabricated. Manufacturers don't run their product at 60% performance to then suddenly go "surprise mofos! We got a firmware update that makes everything so much better!". If this was Fuji, well maaaaybe, but Canon? Did they ever bring anything meaningful in a fw update except the one to extend the 7D sales cycle?

You always can ad contrast and saturation in post. Try to get your image you want out of the cam for color correct as less as posible.

Man, your showreel is one of the best GH4 footy samples I and many others have ever seen here or everywhere else *thumbsup* Panasonic should take this in consideration for new releases. You 're Da Man... I already had watched it, just clueless you were posting in these boards. Grading is your surname, pal, kudos to your associates and clientele ; ) E :-)

I don't have the camera so I am not sure what the Anti-shake stabilization actually reflects, but my guess would be the IBIS in which case the answer would be yes. Any stabilization (lens based, sensor based or electronic) should require the focal length information whether that is manually or automatically registered. The crop with electronic stabilization should not depend on the focal length. It usually is a standard % of the image that corresponds to the range of corrections that are possible. Electronic stabilization can indeed give you warping artifacts. It is generally avoided unless you really (really) need it. It can work great though if the shot is relatively static and in turn when the necessary motion correction range very small. But with that said, some NLEs offer similar stabilization that could perform just as well even though they don't have information about the focal length or the acceleration of the camera, but just extract the motion information from the video itself. Yes you should enter the corrected focal length (11.5mm). Thats all the information that the camera needs in order to translate the acceleration information into sensor shifts. Relevant points: 1.Sensor size has no role in this so the correction would be the same whether the sensor is 4/3s or 35mm 2.Smart adaptors with electronic lenses should automatically transmit the focal length in which case you either wouldn't be able to enter it or it would n't be taken into account.

Well it is a game changer on it for sure. Imagine a ML Raw hack, Woot! Well unfortunally it is like 1500 bucks more,but it is FF, and they Do take some damn nice pictures, not counting Canon's Color Science, and well DPAF doesn't hurt in it either. I think the XF-AFC file format is a really big deal also. Moving up to big boy Canon Codec.