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Well if that something you need then it is. I almost never do post zooms. Hate them. And I can do it with HD. No one can tell. I have yet to ever "need" 4k. Webb, TV-commercials, you name it. I could honesly use 720p and it would be fine. Have a look at the d500 if you like Nikon and need 4K. And no, the crop isn't a big deal imo (I would almost go as far as calling it a bonus).

This seems like a nice S16 size camcorder. So sensor being S16 size, it might be able to produce images reminiscent of S16 films, just like S35 camcorder give us that classic S35 look. Would like to see a comparision with the XC10 not just regarding XLR or not. Launch film for the XC10 had cinematic S16 quality. The new 1 inch canon camcorders might also provide that look. Would be nice, if lens could keep that 2.8 up til 70mm in S35 terms, so about 35mm in S16. Would be nice to have Tstop around 3 for that range. Maybe Dave @DaveAltizer would not shy away from shooting a little S16 cinematic piece with it.

@maxotics absolutely. It's not going to win awards at having the most cinematic images on the planet, but gosh darn it, it sure is a practical camera for what I do. These last two weeks, I have been shooting and editing at least two or three videos a day on youtube. Anything to help me move faster and have less hassle will help me so much.

The only reason to use a DSLR/Mirrorless is to get close-up shallow DOF, ability to use any crappy (but full of "character") lens and a better low-light image, but I really mean LOW light. Otherwise, if you're shooting video ONLY today's 1-inch camcorders produce wonderfully clean images, with pleasant shallow DOF once your reach beyond effective 70mm or so, and you don't have to worry about the battery, audio, easy of use, etc. They're built only for video production. They're not going away because if I'm a school, public cable company, etc., they allow anyone to shoot a doc or short film with minimum fuss (calls for technical support). Someone want's a photo they can take out their phone. If your camera, no matter what kind, doesn't have XLR inputs, you're going to roll the dice with your audio every time you shoot. @DaveAltizer If shooting content ABOUT cameras is more important to you than fiddling with a DSLR/mirrorless AT THE SAME time you're talking about camera, then you should really give one of these 1-inch camcorders a try. I believe one would allow you to focus on your content which will improve what you're able to say about the DSLR/mirrorless you're talking about. In any case, getting some real experience with one might help you put all the other stuff you do in perspective?

I always use the hack. Big improvement, especially in 120p. I feel like it holds fine detail in the shadow areas a lot better, but where I really notice it is on a gimbal, with a wide angle and deep focus... I mainly shoot weddings, so that means lots of trees, fountains, small, detailed and busy backgrounds with lots of movement. At the much lower stock bitrate (especially on the NX500, which only offered 60mbps as opposed to the nx1's 80mbps pro setting) there is a huge, noticeable difference for me. I always shoot my b-roll without sound anyway, since it's all 60p or 120p and I know I'll slow it down, so I usually shoot at 200mbps, and drop down to 180 or 160 with sound when I shoot interviews and talking heads. The files still aren't that big. Why not use the best image quality possible, all the time? That's my advice though. If you really want to see the difference, point the camera at a fountain, or run down a road with big, leafy trees gently blowing in the wind, and I'm sure you'll notice a difference.

Hello everyone, let me tell you the story of how I got the cheapest single focus solution. And how it compares to the Rectilux HCDNA (results a the end of the post) Last month, I found this anamorphic adapter on ebay : It was cheap, and looked like a weird anamorphic projection lens using prisms. So I bought it (Gear Acquisition Syndrome :D). Then I took it apart to clean it, and noticed it consisted of two prisms (for the anamorphic part) and some kind of focussing solution in the front. So I 3D printed an adapter for it (around 5GBP printed at a local shop) and tried it. And of course it confirmed to be a single focus solution ! So I had to test it ! Here are the results compared to the hardcore DNA : Taking lens : Super Takumar MC 105mm f/2.8 Camera : Canon 50D Anamorphic lens : Schneider Cinelux Single Focus Solution : Rectilux HCDNA vs GB-Kalee Small Anamorphic (front part) (Same grade applied to all shots) Here is a picture of the setup : Of course, the GB-Kalee is less convenient : - Minimum focus distance around 1.8m - Smaller element diameter (would work better with smaller anamorphic) - More difficult to focus (as my copy of this adapter is quite beaten up) - Needs a mounting solution for both back and front as there is no filters. (But the HCDNA is similar here are the threads are not standard size) So, What do you think ? I personally think this GB-Kalee needs a rehousing !

Thanks guys for the replies, As I take a deeper look at the lens there seems to be microscratches... Oh well just have to live with it for no. Cheers!

A7R2 + canon ts-e 17mm. Badass

I would keep the a6500 and sell the d750. Get more lenses, lighting, whatever it takes to bump your stuff up a notch. Or just sit on the cash and wait for the d760, flip the a6500 and get the new Nikon body. But really, the a6500 is a great hybrid, better than the d750 as a video body IMO since you don't have a goofy mirror and you have IBIS. Add a speed booster and you get the part of a stop advantage the d750 has. I had a d750 for a short time - lovely image but the awful LCD and no EVF just killed shooting video for me. To keep it, I would have needed a monitor and a stabilizer. Instead I sold it and bought a a7rII - which shoots much better stills and video. Good luck.

@PannySVHS wouldn’t be my first S16 film!

Dear friends of the eoshd: Then I leave you a short film, which is completed completely in raw with magiclantern in 1920 x 1080, the configuration used was: 5d iii camera 2 compact flash komputerbay 1066x, 2 lights tota lowel 1 lens 24-105 canon 1 macro lens 100 canon The images were processed with MLVProducer. I still need the translation, however, I wanted to share it with you, so that you can express your comments. https://vimeo.com/242501856 sorry for my bad english

@Eno Just to mention potential suspect... maybe your eyes simply are not trained as Jon's in looking with ETTC compensation in reserve, so he is not that thrilled or impressed with detecting 0.4 ISO differences in 400% magnification at 6400ISO values.

Just for the heck of it and added confusion I will suggest the D500. Im so far very happy. A baby D5.

The D750’s color is so effortless. I really think you will miss it. Yeah if you need a camera now or soon, I would definitely sell the D750 and buy the D850, if you can afford it. It has everything you need except IBIS... but you’ve been going without that for how long now? I had an A6500 last January, and I loved the 4K out of that camera, but I returned it because I got the dreaded overheating warning after shooting a dozen 10-30 second clips in 40 degree Fahrenheit weather. It didn’t shut off but I stopped filming after the warning popped up, then went home, boxed it up and sent it back. Of course, it’s better than the RX100 V I tested last December, that camera shut off after using the menu and no video recorded.

The DR is better on the Nikon for both stills and video. The color is of course personal taste, I dig Nikon more. Other than that its a classic mirrorless vs DSLR and FF vs APSC imo.

Nikon better than sony ALWAYs but still has its gooofy controls and dials just get 5d mk3 - check mate!

Great thanks... this is why I write articles asking for help... Would not have found it myself.

Their Git is still online with a lot of information. It shouldn't be so hard to get it running. https://github.com/LeiaInc/LeiaCore

He only compared IBIS and dual I.S. 2 in stills between the GH5 and the G9. I guess he might be open to do more comparisons between the two like AF or video IBIS, if you suggest it to him. To tell you the truth I would really like a G9 with the video features of GH5

@jonpais It is obvious - you can't restrict you and cover all these magical Vietnamese ladies (from your well thought camouflage tests) with miserable 0.82 ETF magnification - you need at least fisheyed 4.0! (Sony, Canon was Eno's special addition, not mine.)

G9 instead GH5 for video work? For me - new best medical symptom-detection test of unbearable GASyndrom Also, have to admit, and sign of special sort of imagination - GAS one: even if something clearly is not meant to be equal (in respective field of products) competitive video tool, we will made and forced it to be! I think that even engineers in Panasonic are openmouthed by such development of reception-events (Guys from western economies, SLR Magic base anamorphot adapter is just 400$ new - with such wonderfull posibilities to play and gain serious aesthetic results about which Andrey Tarkovski could only dream shiped into Solaris station.)

"AF capabilities of the G9 put it in league only with the Sony A9 for sports shooters". I think this is a wishful thinking, contrast only AF compared to the Sony A9 693 phase auto focus points. I have tested the A9 with a fast action and this is a very high bar to be reached.

Yup, it even touched bellow $400 new. Problem is that our used prices seems way lower than alot of places. Im having the same issues trying to recommend when people ask with a price in mind. Lucky for us Then, again, the prices are high in those places because people keep paying..

My choice was to buy a sombrero!!! Works great at keeping the LCD in shade. The only problem is... now my balls keep getting caught behind the tilting screen...

Great Work! Love the fuji X-T2 video.

Also, there simply might be finger grease on your glass.

As it is said before in static scenes it is hard to see any difference. But I have seen horrible macro blocking in some sky scenes before the hack. Also there is some stange "macro block flashing" sometimes in even shadow surfaces ( grounds, roads, walls...), there can be little with hack too but much more without. Can't explain it, but it seems to me some kind of macro blocking. I have also seen really horrible macro block, color kind of flashing when shooting snow during snowing. I have not seen it with the hack yet. I have no words to explain it correctly, sorry my english. All in all, simply the picture seems more "peacefull" with the hack. I use it all the time. Nowadays at 140 mbps (AF and IS on)

In static scenes you will not see much difference - maybe only in shadows details. But I always shoot 4k/30p in 160Mbit: I remember one situation in past when I have recorded video with my NX1 (withou any hack that time) was poiting on building against sun (so building was in shadows), there were trees, waving branches in the wind, moving grass, chaning brightness ... that image was full of macroblocking and absolutely awful to me. However I saw also macroblocking on the sky in static landscape shots too so I will never return back to 80Mbit. Below are frame grabs from 160Mbit footage - all done from gimbal in movement (so there is also some motion blur), no grading - just "converted" from 0-255 to 16-235 in Premiere (I am Ok with 8bit colors ;-)), Vivid settings with some tweaks, MBL 0. I have not tried 80Mbit but details would not be so detailed and there would be much more macroblocking - I think image would fall apart completely without hack. You will see macroblocking even here (face, road ) if you will take closer look (I should push it at least to 180Mbit but I was worried about frame drops). If you plan share footage on YT then it is completely different story

I usually do not use any bitrate hack. I prefer NOT over heating my sensor, to use less cards, cheaper, and not super expensive ones, and to squeeze more power from my batteries. These 3 are some of the greatest benefits of the NX1, and not one mirrorless is better than NX1. GH5 is equally good in heat management, but to achieve this is bigger and +50% heavier than the NX1, with a lot smaller sensor; also you need top speed cards and eats batteries quite a lot. I have noticed more heat in the camera, bigger battery consumption and of course bigger files with the hack, and I decided that if I need a different tool, I just use/rent a different camera. For the price range and it's tier, NX is still great and top in some aspects (as the ones mentioned earlier, plus ergonomics, some great lenses, megapixel count, 120fps, 15fps photography, SAMOLED monitors, etc). My impression is that there is a slight improvement from 120-160mbps (never went above that) and for smaller projects, it probably worths the extra GBs, but it ain't 10bit, not 4:2:2, you don't even gain better low light performance (biggest NX disadvantage vs newer APS-C cameras). Bitrates and specs do not tell the whole story. One of my favorite cameras to use and produce is the Canon C100mkII. Do you know it's bitrate?! There are a lot of posts with details, explanations, and tests, you should read some of that stuff. I would expect @Omer Sehayek above to notice some differences, probably on a more complex forest or sea scene. He can post one still from 80 and another from 180mbps, but I have the same card and I am not sure if it can reach as far as 220 WITH sound, but definitely I am not a mod/hack expert in anyway, on the contrary.

The new A7R III does not dim the back screen anymore while taking 4K.

I disagree with @maxotics. What sound post production? Do you do a "sound correction" in the sense you do a "color correction? In what way? my experience tells me that most low to middle productions do not even have a proper sound engineer to do sound post. I would advise most to try to get the most appropriate sound during production, post is almost a lost cause, especially if you are not highly educated and experience in sound. Image you can see, sound not so much. I also disagree with @zerocool22, 416 is a standard in boom operators and sound men, a mic in camera is a whole different world. I would say that 416 is highly inappropriate for camera use, most of its sound qualities and benefits for a booman is lost in camera placement. Also, not experienced boom ops fail miserably with this mic, that is why they prefer "lesser" mics, because they cover their innabilities. I would suggest shorter directional with wider patterns, Sanken has a few very good ones.

Do you know if you can add the handle on the GX10? The XLR inputs are tempting.. The new Sony Z90 might be a good alternative. It doesn't have the UHD 60p but it has internal 10bit (HD), better EVF, slog at a cheaper price. https://www.provideocoalition.com/new-4k-uhd-camcorders-from-canon-sony-lets-compare/ The AF might be better on Canon but the Sony is not far off. Here is a very informative hands-on: Are camcorders dead? I am not sure, I can see them being very useful for some types of run & gun. Here is an oldie:

Zzzzzzzzzzzzz

I deal with it by living in Berlin where the sun don't shine!!