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This was originally in response to @IronFilm asking in the Blackmagic area about a cheap screen for vlogging on a BMPCC but thought it might have some interest for other cameras too. Plus, I've moved it on to be just a bit more than a vlogging screen as well. So... This is all based around of the 3.5" monitors that are designed for the Raspberry Pi. It is completely barebones but supply it with an HDMI feed and some USB power and it'll do the job for you. I just put it in a cheap phone hotshoe mount and voila, cameras like the GX80 here can have a front facing vlogging screen. If you want to be posh then you can have it in an acrylic case for a tiny bit more ! Because of its resolution, you're only going to want to use it as a framing and a "is this thing on?" aid but if thats all you need then its adequate for that. I've tested it with Panasonic (GX80/G7), Canon (EOS-M), Sony (RX100), Nikon (D500) and Fuji (XT-2) cameras but I can't vouch for it with all cameras. Its got a fairly low res screen but the the cameras I've tested it on scale their output but with the JVC LS300, you have to set it 480 and there may be others out there like that but for £12 the worst thing that can happen is you've got a handy little plug in HDMI cable checker. There are a gazillion sellers so take this one as just an example EDIT >> ORIGINAL EXAMPLE LINK DIDN'T HAVE HDMI SO CHANGED TO NEW EXAMPLE - SHOP AROUND FOR BETTER PRICE THOUGH https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-IPS-3-5-inch-HDMI-LCD-Screen-Display-for-Raspberry-Pi-w-Acrylic-Case/382391593643?epid=8015535815&hash=item590850aaab So, the additional part is that this morning I've been busy with the gaffa tape and the lateral thinking and turned it into a full blown powered EVF. I'm using the loupe that comes with the Sigma DP0 but any old £12 DSLR one off eBay will do and you can supply power via a usb power bank and in this example I'm even running it off a little box that gives you USB power from 3 AA batteries. Once you have it like this then you can then put it on an arm or whatever to make a fully fledged adjustable system. My loupe has a plate underneath for mounting it to the tripod thread of the camera and a lot of the cheap DSLR loupes have this as well for adjustment which makes it easy to attach an arm. I have to stress that the resolution is not all that so take it on the merits of it being a cheap and cheerful way of adding a vlogging screen or a more flexible EVF than your DSLR offers for those occasional times when you may need them without having to invest a load of money and you won't go far wrong. For the LS300 though, which has an utterly abysmal EVF that is so bad that you will actually question whether its faulty, then this combo actually completely smokes it. To recap Screen : £12 Loupe : £12 Power : £3 Mount : £3

Here are the budgets,workflows etc https://blog.frame.io/2018/03/05/oscar-2018-workflows/ (This link has a couple of pop ups)

Damn! I just bought one that looks just like that. The sales guy told me it was Apple's new 'distressed look' version. He said anything I watch on it will automatically look like it was shot by Vincent Gallo. I can't work out how to turn it on though.

Looks damn good. Those Fuji film simulation just nail contrast and color without any tweaks. I was messing around with video on my x100f and couldn’t believe how amazing skintones looked, but file was brittle as hell when moving. Reminded me of the ole T2i. I’d love to play around with some files from the X-H1.

Your post isn't specific enough, really. Tell us more about what kind of jobs you're working on each side, and we can give you better advice. Right now we can't tell if you would need a t2i with a kit lens, or twenty grand of bodies and lenses. There are lots of video gigs that are perfectly well-served by cameras that aren't up to the current IQ/feature/usability ideals held by most posters here... just as there are plenty of photo gigs that don't call for a current high-end FF body with pro f2.8 zooms and f1.2 primes. Personally, I'm looking at jumping to the a73 after years with m4/3, mostly so I can confidently pursue some minor photo gigs this summer. My G85 has been great, especially considering what I paid for it. But the photo quality has never been what I wanted.

I also believe that an A7iii would work great for FF 4K with AF. A7rII could work as well, but I would avoid it since you might go into moire issues with fabrics in FF mode. From metabones:

Indeed.

I like the use of the word “persuade” in that sentence...

Genius. (But hopefully not the display used by the Hydrogen!)

Nice! Does the acrylic case conform tightly to the monitor, or is it more bulky (to include a Raspberry Pi board)?

Why did he shoot with a 140 degree shutter? Ahhh.

Ha, I knew there was a connection there. :P Glad things are sorted out now! Now for the tedious bit... mounting! But you've seen this right?

Sony NEX5N or NEX5R or NEX5T all make very nice pictures and are priced at around 150eur for a body. Screen flips and can accept a loupe too. Tech heads will moan about the avchd codec but it's the same codec they gave c100 and fs100 users for in body recording. Add a focal reducer adaptor and he will have an extra stop of light and will gain full frame field of view from your lenses meaning a basic 35mm/2.8 russian lens will become a 25mm/2 lens. Focal reducer: https://www.ebay.es/itm/Focal-Reducer-Speed-Booster-Canon-EOS-mount-Lens-to-Sony-E-Adapter-NEX-7-5-A6500/351338788897?hash=item51cd6c7821:g:SFoAAOSwBahU~~~G That's quite a bit under budget and will allow a nice variable nd, some spare ex-pro batteries and will work with even the cheapest sd cards. edit~~ Additionally all of the above cameras shoot up to 50p in full hd. Slow mo is a nice addition

Love it! As well as the benefits mentioned already, the BMCC MFT lacks an active mount, which rules out the usage of many of the native mount lenses for MFT

You could switch to 1080 just for a few shots if you know beforehand you'll have major rolling shutter issues in a particular scene

Second hand Sony A5100

a7III seems most logical, though a7s2 prices are lower on the used market. If you go speed booster, it opens up Fuji and Sony APS-c.

65mm is generally regarded as having a resolution greater than 4k digital.

The a7S needs a recorder to give you 4K, so that pretty much ruins the price advantage. The a7RII is a better option, but its FF 4K is only good up to about ISO1600, and even then it's a bit soft, so punching in in the edit will be limited. For the ~$1600 you would spend on an a7RII I would probably just spend the extra $400 for the a7III. Then you'll get super high-res FF 4K, amazing ISO capabilities in all modes, better AF for those people that sway and rock in their chair, better battery life, and a screen that doesn't dim in 4K.

It was just okay for me... think Contact (1997) meets Invasion of the body snatchers (1978) Ex-machina was a thousand times better...

https://fencheljanisch.wetransfer.com/downloads/bd19d67a3598ac7f2c516512451f643a20180309163121/e2d530

Shutterstock, Fotolia, if you go into your sales at Pond5 you can see what's sold. Getty, I just do photos there, and it's such a mess I just take the money. As far as money and video's, Shutterstock I've made the most on, Fotolia on average is twenty eight bucks a sale, but I've seen over a hundred per video there, as well as Shutterstock. Pond5 you set your price, I go low and high, it doesn't seem to make much difference. I should add, if you're going to start, keep with the majors. Shutterstock, Fotolia, which is Adobe, and Pond5. Getty I haven't a clue, like I said, they are so messed up right now it's hard to figure out what they're doing. If you go on the fringe sites, you'll probably loose money, ie, it will take more time to upload to them than it's worth.

No (EDIT!!! as in "No, your wife is mistaken") all of the other settings are still available, you just select them as normal in the menu. The best approach is to save a Cinelike D version as one of your C settings so you can recall it from the camera instead of having to do the hack each time. The hardware device above includes the Cinelike profiles in its list of profiles as though it were like the others so you can switch to it without saving it as a C setting or having to do the hack each time (as it is doing the hack each time itself automatically when you select a Cinelike profile). Instructions for switching using the C settings are here

Tried it myself. It didn't end well.

That settles it. I'm only shooting in ARRIRAW 3.4K from now on!

I agree, for full frame the A7iii is a no-brainer. I wouldn't buy anything cheaper/used, right now. It will be scary when it starts to go down ( a bit at least) in price just before Christmas or so. It would be cheaper than most top m43/APS-C and it can arguably compete with some high priced full frame dSLRs.

Don't think I would need to hire a bodyguard when I have a factory building killer robots at my disposal.

Au contraire

Then dont work in a funeralhome. And its simple math, pull in more than you cost and there is little to no reason for you to be downsized. Unless you display this sort of attitude at work of course. Then I would look for a reason to fire you. I can't have people on my staff saying: "if you think that project is going to work you need your head examined. Its no use. Times is to blame. Lets give up.." Again, sitting at home blaming every thing and its mom, doing nothing is the fastest way to failure.

lol come on, you've never shot a sky or a wall with a subtle shift in light intensity across it? banding exists in all 8bit footage

We just had an interview graded with the director of a big franchise release that was shot on an A7RII in SLog. Producer says he was surprised because this shooter was supposed to bring an FS7. The interviewee was wearing a black shirt that was reflecting some purple/pink gelled light (the movie has a vibrant color palette) but the shadows were a disaster because of this. Noise, no tonality, just crunchy garbage. There was also a skin tone issue with a lack of tonality between yellows and pinks. Colorist did what he could to clean it up. Keep an eye open for an HBO First Look debuting in a week to see what i mean.

I’ve been doing tests and am shooting like 5 different reviews on this camera for Kinotika and my personal channel and to me, honestly, the GH5S is game changer. I’m noticing significant improvement in skin tones and color science here along with better autofocus with the “hack” than the GH5. I’ve been comparing the two cameras using the same settings and the GH5S does seem to be faster. Also, I love the newer sensor size. Just that little extra amount of sensor size allows for the Olympus 12-100 zoom to be the best lens of all time! Constant f4 was always a problem with this lens, but now with the low light performance it’s a non issue. That 12mm becomes a 21mm equivalent which makes it the perfect “vlog” focal length and with the ability to zoom to 100mm... you have a 21mm-175mm which is unheard of. You get fabulous IS with the lens so you’re not missing out by not having ibis and call me crazy, but I’m not a fan of ibis. It’s always ruined the shots for me. 80% of the time on the GH5 it’s great, but sometimes you just see that wobble and it ruins the shot in my opinion. Lens IS never does that for me. So: GH5S + Olympus 12-100 = best walk around kit. There’s so many things with the panny cameras that just make my life better and more pain free too. Like the hdmi implementation. Having all your settings, audio levels, etc carry over hdmi is so incredible. I even love the stills off the GH5s. Really clean and 10mp is fine for me. Less megapixels than my iPhone but the photos are fine for my use (family portraits) I’m buying the GH5S with the 12-100 with a speed booster for my contax Zeiss glass and actually going to sell my 1DC for this. I’m so happy with the 10bit files and vlog. This camera makes me happy. The GH5 never did.

I don't but I can update you, or the cinematographer can update us here as he's a member of this site as well.

Yes, it supposed to be cats or welders.... or welding cats