Leaderboard

So true. That’s a $25k camera. We’re going to get more of the same 8-bit 4:2:0 stuff.

I am not really sure about the A7III being better in low light then the A7SIII. When you get into the higher ISO's heavier NR is apparent and the image is softer. 36mp is also a big jump from 26mp. We'll see I guess.

Jordan's conclusion sure is feeble as audio can be directly recorded to a Ninja V or use a preamp like the US $100 Saramonic Smartrig+ .

There are awesome resources for colour grading and Resolve techniques out there, but they're scattered around the place, and are hard to find. Please post anything awesome you find. (Note: for those that are new to Resolve or colour grading, there are lots of YT "colourists" who have very little actual knowledge. These people provide a steady stream of bad habits, misleading and flat-out wrong information. There are exceptions, but on the whole you should be very suspicious of people selling LUTs and pumping out video after video - most of these people are professional LUT salespeople and/or YouTubers and not professional colourists!) Juan Melara is excellent. If you watch all the below you'll get a sense of how he uses Resolve, especially the Colour Space Transform plugin and which tools in Resolve are designed to work in which colour spaces.

It’s highly, highly, highly, highly unlikely you’ll get those kind of specs in the A7SIII. I think it will look like: - 4k 60fps (10bit external) - Better lowlight, battery, EVF etc - PDAF - Higher MP - One surprise (like a 4k 120fps burst mode)

The Fuji looks interesting, especially the 10-bit internal video. Though now you're making me rethink about the Canon 5d mark iii with ML lol

Have a look at the X-T3. Very impressive. I also shot with a 50D with ML Raw for a little while. Eventually, that lead me to the 5D Mark III with ML Raw and I couldn’t be happier... it is a completely different experience than the 50D. Other than a fleeting thought here and there, I haven’t even considered another camera for nearly two years now. But recently I saw some videos from the X-T3 and the video is ridiculously good, especially for the price. I’m not trading in my 5D3 just yet, but I may be adding an X-T3 to the kit in the next 6 months or so.

This is from a B&H customers reviews question. No guarantee, but it seems like the EF-S lens should work? But the comment is 2 1/2 years old. I am sure there is a revision as of now. From the B&H questions section. "This unit works with Canon EF and EF-S lenses. The Canon 100mm IS will be able to mount on it and it should work. However, only select lenses have been tested and varied to work at this point, with the 100mm not being one of them. Here is a list of the tested lenses. The 18-55mm STM is on this list!Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L II USMCanon EF 40mm f/2.8 STMCanon EF-S18-13Smmf/35IS STMCanon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-S.6 IS STMDistagon T* 35mm f/1.4Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L II USMCanon EF 50mm f/1.8 IICanon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.S-5.6 IS STMCanon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Answered by Joseph P. Staff on Jun 16, 2016" https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1251088-REG/aputure_declr_mft_dec_lensregain_for_mft.html

Yep! It's an awesome feature that came at the cost of DR and noise so they dropped it like a brick for the 4.6K, which has a superior image. People don't give a hoot about rolling shutter as long as it's minimal enough. P4K, GH5S, Ursa 4.6k have all reached that point imo.

8K seems far-fetched for us in the western world, but it is literally yesterday's news in Japan: NHK, other TV stations begin broadcasting 4K, 8K ultra-high-definition programs Canon already has a working prototype: https://youtu.be/rac0uva3OeU

Exactly my thoughts. The USM with the power zoom can be a great run n gun combo. I love the lens on a C100mkII but I do not like the wide end, with a speedbooster can have an amazing range (13.5-101mm, depending the crop factor) and with a dumb adapter you have a 36-270mm! BM must polish some of those edges if they want their camera to be accessible to more people.

Yeah, the Tamron is a little bit short on the long end compared to the Sigma. Having said that though, you can make up for some of the restriction of the Tamron that by having a non-speedboosted EF>MFT adapter in your bag and still have the speed advantage of it being f2.8. I suppose it depends on what MFT it is going on as well as you have ETC mode on the Panasonic and of course the fully variable mode on an LS300. I'm not holding my breath on BM doing it but a switchable 1.1 or 1.2x crop mode on the Pocket4K would be a welcome addition to give a bit more flexibility but also to deal with some of the sketchy edge performance on some native lenses and vignetting on speed boosted APS-C lenses. The 18-135mm USM is interesting as well because of the power zoom adapter that they do for it. The combo can be picked up used for under £400 which is an interesting proposition if someone is looking for something comparable to the flexibility of the Olympus 12-100 f4 at a significant saving.

Hi Andrew, this rumor and details should be presented in perspective. I means, the NX1's sensor was able of 4k 240fps, IN LAB SETUP, and in year 2014 or even before. By LAB SETUP, it means you cannot have it in a "camera size", even thinking to a large format camera. BUT, NX1 itself was able only 30fps. What was missing? A very powerful processor. This is valid today for any pro-consumer camera, how many are able to do it, aka 4k 240fps? Can you hold it on your nose or on your shoulders? This new 8k sensor (7680x4320) with 71.93fps, does not have an 4k (3840x2160) output yet in the leaked specs but it could be 4 times quicker, so 4k @ 280 fps, well 16% quicker than the one in NX1. I can't have a smooth playback on 4k on a "normal" laptop (i7, 16GB RAM, 250GB SSD, nVidia discreet graphics) just few years old, I have to have the playback direct from NX1 on HDMI :-( . . . 8k, let me. . . hope. . . maybe in 10 years will it be in a "convenient" package not pulled in a trailer.

Wow! ? ursa mini 4K has zero rolling shutter? Thx

I use nothing but Twisted Vines Cables for video and I have never had any problem with the cables, or right Angle Adapters. But I must admit I am not pushing 4K 60p 10bit! Only down side is they are pretty stiff. https://www.amazon.com/Twisted-Veins-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B014EV0G3G

Thanks Jonesy, that's the plan. There is a lot of ground to cover; I am laying the foundation for it now. Just got a new Alexa Classic last week, due to the early demise of the former Before moving forward, I wanted to make sure the original work was fully defined, and V3 is really there

I have heard Alienware is not what it was value wise years ago. Not sure what to tell you what to buy. Dell has always been good stuff. No doubt a Desktop Box is way cheaper than any Laptop that might edit 4K. I would just get up on the web and see if you can find some good comparisons. 3000 bucks ought to get the job done on a Box. The big money might be in buying a decent 4K, 5K monitor that can do HDR 2020. That is going to be the future, and it is here now. HDR is the future like it or not, a heck of a lot more than 8K is ever going to be for years to come. Heck even a few Phones do true HDR now, and a lot of them can view it on the display. A lot of videos are going to look pretty weak not using HDR when it gets damn popular. My son and I were in Best Buy a few months ago and particularly Sony TV's that had HDR were a True standout compared to those that didn't have it. You could spot them half way across the store. They are that good.

IMO, not really if it looks like Sony footage. I don't care how many Ks are in it.

Yeah no way Sony is giving us any specs like that in a hybrid camera.

For the money (£150-200) a used Tamron SP AF17-50mm f2.8 zoom on a speed booster has a lot going for it as a constant aperture stabilised 24-70mm equivalent. Not exactly the quietest lens in the world but I can't think of anything that gets you that performance at anywhere near that price. Its quite light in the bag as well as on the pocket too.

Hi all, Very long time lurker, first time poster. I’ve got my z6 in hands since the beginning of the week, and thought I could share some first impressions. Bought it in kit with 24-70s + ftz + a free XQD card, and a 50 1.8G. There was a good sale in a big French store, and I managed to buy it with almost a 550€ saving (regular price was 3099€ ; xqd reg price = around 180€ ; sale was a lense + a mirrorless = non negligible discount % ; 50€ cashback for the 50 1.8G). Here are some first impressions, after a couple of short hands on tests: PROS: Handling is great, especially the grip. Its feels like a “mirrorless dslr”. It’s build like a tank, and I’ll certainly feel more confident with it in the field, compared to my former fujis Button layout is OK: I can operate with only the right hand (“i” button, menu, iso etc.) The viewfinder is gorgeous, big and bright. Same for the rear lcd screen Touchscreen function seems well implemented, but I need to use it more The AF seems OK for my use, which implies landscape/nature and documentary photography. Manual focusing is really great, both in photo and video Video AF is great with the native 24-70s, but I did not explore it much, so I can’t tell more. It seems less effective with the 50 1.8G adapted with FTZ The dedicated video and photo modes that keep the settings in memory is just perfect ! The 24-70s kit lens is really a bargain! Very sharp, small form factor, convenient etc. For longer lenses, I believe the 300PF, the new 500 and zooms like the sigma 100-400 will pair wonderfully with Z serie cameras. Image quality in video surprised me in a good way. I quickly tweaked the picture profiles, and it appeared to be wonderful, even at high iso. I’m used to fuji gorgeous output right out of the camera, in video mode, but I think this one will be a step above. Really. The IBIS is quite effective, in fact more than I hoped for. With the 50 1.8G adapted, which is supposed to lead to only 3 axis, I manage to obtain a really steady image. Impressive in fact. I watched videos on youtube, with awful funky stuffs, like wobbles, kind of warp effects etc. and people in the comments moaning about how bad the ibis is compared to the sony a7iii. I've tried to replicate this... with success : with the Electronic VR turned on ! With IBIS alone, it's perfect. And I don't know why, but in those videos I saw, they said the Electronic VR was turned off. I don't think so... CONS: The FTZ design is… questionable! The bottom with the tripod screw attachment is longer than the camera body. Thus, making the use of arca swiss plate on the camera with the FTZ attached complicated. A turn around seems to use a Peak Design “micro” plate, which appears to be just well sized. Anyway, I’ll attach my arca plate to the FTZ, and won’t bother much. In video mode, you can’t have both the histogram and the horizon level at the same time. I have to press the “disp” button to bring on the histogram, set my exposure, and press again until the level appears. I hope for a firmware update politic à la fuji ; a dpreview forum member explained that he talked with a Nikon Z development team member, during and event, and they are aware of the fuji successful firmware politic, and will try to offer the same. Fingers crossed! Another firmware-able fix problem (i hope): zebras only work in autofocus mode. If I switch the lens on manual focus, zebras disappear… I need to read the manual more, to check if it is setting relative or not. A lot of people are complaining about hot or white pixels on the sensor on brand new Z cameras. I got that too. An easy fix is to launch the sensor cleaning via the menu, two times in a row. It seems to trigger the pixels mapping stuff. Worked for me! Others are complaining (see the photographylife’s review of the Z7 and dpreview forum) about the coating of the grip peeling where the fingers are, close to the 2 function buttons. From what I understand, it affects people with large hands and long nails. Personally, my fingers don’t even reach this area… so, I hope it’ll be OK ! Video AF with the 50 1.8G attached, as I said before, is not really good. But, it’s a right out of the box test that I did, so maybe if I dive into the menu and the manual, I’ll find a way to make it better. Anyway, as a result, the 50 1.8G is always trying to focus, and seems to fail a lot, which leads to a lot of loud “buzzing” noises. That’s all! Before I choose the Z6, I was shooting with only a fuji X-T2. And, before that, with an X-T1 + a GH4 (and before that… only photography with a Nikon D610). I’ve been shooting with my backup LX100 since the beginning of 2018. Not enough time and a will to spend my energy to learn more about editing, grading etc. leads me to be cameraless for months. I ditched my X-T2 because I was unhappy with the photo output (as a landscape photographer), not very fond of fuji colors (except for video… don’t know why, but love the colours of the video output, but hate the photo files). More important, I ruined a lot of video shots, because of crappy bug at that time (wobbles and “warp” effects due to the image distortion correction etc.). So, as I started again to think of buying a camera, helped a lot with all of your great contributions here, my choices were: a7iii, gh5, bmpcc4k and Z6. Gh5 and bmpcc4k were ruled out as a first “hybrid” camera (maybe next year, as a second cam), as photo is equally important as video to me (for the moment!). Then I choose Z over a7, because I operate mostly in the mountains (I live in the French Alps and spend a lot of time in northern Scandinavia), with cold, snow, bad weather, and I knew, because of my previous Nikon cameras, that Nikon do not disappoints on the “toughness” side. I’ve read too much stories of dead Sony A7’s during trip with similar conditions as what I operate in (and, to be fair, I've read the same with big 5dmiii and Nikon d810). I know, weather sealing is not such a big deal, but, still… a wide bottom opens on the sony would really scare me! And I’m no Chris Burckard, I do not have 200 sony a7 waiting to replace the ones you ruin during an arctic trip! So, here I am with this little Z. Next step is to buy and Atomos ninka V, and some lenses. I’ll read posts from @Geoff CB and @IronFilm, I think I’ll find some great Nikkor lenses ideas Sorry for this long and first post. Hope it’ll help some of you. I’ll be happy to answer questions or try things on the camera if you want. I’ll also share footages. But, for now, I’m taking the camera outside, because it’s sunny and the snow has arrived.

I guess readout speeds will just get shorter so it's not as obvious but I'm not sure a true global shutter will be around the corner anytime soon as manufacturers concentrate on more resolution and DR. If you compare the original BMPCC with the new 4k model then rolling shutter was an obvious problem with the first model and did restrict it's suitability in certain situations whereas although the new camera has rolling shutter it's much less and is not an obvious 'artefact' most users need to be concerned with.

Pretty good video on PK4 cages.

There is a (debatable) school of thought that says that downscaling perfectly from 4k 3840 x 2160 to HD 1920 x 1080 ensures that there is more colour information and less noise, and in thus in theory, the equivalent of more bit depth. There have been lots of articles to push this theory forward. I agree with some of the viewpoints, but I have neither tried it nor an I am sure of how much the inage quality improves. (Translated this page cause it's in German). https://www.slashcam.de/artikel/Grundlagen/4K---Von-RAW-bis-4-2-0.html And https://***URL not allowed***/best-way-downsample-4k-smartphone-footage/

Magic lantern is making a lot of progress with 3K+ on the 5D mark 2! Seems what happened with the 5 year old mark III in 2017 is now happening with the 10 year old mark II... 3K announcement: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=19336.msg205638#msg205638 Initial 4K progress (10.5 frames per second): https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=19336.msg208417#msg208417 Initial 5K progress (6.5 frames per second): https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=19336.msg208355#msg208355 The 5D mark II has always been limited to 30fps, but there is also some progress in getting higher framerates: https://twitter.com/autoexec_bin/status/1048804509827452928 The forum user reddeercity has some builds on that thread. I am super excited about this, even spent 100 pound on a new motherboard to fix my camera. Video I made using the 3K build: Shot in 2880x1080 resolution, Graded + converted to ProRes using MLV App (https://github.com/ilia3101/MLV-App), edited in Pitivi on linuX. Lenses: Jupiter 9, Helios 44, Takumar 135mm, cosina 19-35 (for one shot) If anyone wants an MLV or DNG or something from the video I can provide.

I feel the Nikon Z6/Z7 video AF behaviour is the most tasteful from the tests I've seen. I like how the Nikon slowly focuses to the background but very quickly prioritises a face when it appears in frame.

I hear you - it's like flying the space shuttle. I think there are two paths you can take. One is to do as @kaylee suggests and do a small project and search google and YT for the answers for every function. If you learn best by doing then that's a good approach, but I think it's frustrating and you kind of miss out on the big picture about how Resolve works and how it's designed to be used. My understanding is that the overall workflow is different to other packages. The second one is to watch a thorough walk-through of the user interface so you can see how it's organised and what is available. One of the key differences with Resolve is that there is so much stuff in there that is simply absent from PP / FCPX (especially in the Colour tab) and so if you only learn what tools you think you need you'll miss lots of the things that Resolve has that you didn't know existed. If you're going to do this then find the longest and most thorough walk-through possible and just watch that. There's nothing worse than watching a walk-through that isn't thorough and then having to watch another one where they repeat everything you just learned! A couple of points: Unlike almost every other piece of software on earth, the Resolve Manual is absolutely excellent and will answer most of your questions, so look there before asking the internet about something The second place to look is the BM forums where someone might have asked the question before. If you google then other sites pop up but mostly the people who actually know things are at the BM forums. Use YT for learning what buttons do what and what features are available, but don't try and learn colour grading / fusion / audio mixing or mastering from YT folks - they are mostly amateur hacks who use the wrong tool in the wrong way at the wrong time. If you go down this route then you will spend a lot of time unlearning their techniques later on. If you want to hear from people who actually know about colour grading, then liftgammagain.com forums are the best (free) place I've found. There are regular posters there who are polite and helpful who have been grading for decades and really know their stuff. You can also ask here.. Good luck - it's a long process but a worthwhile one IMHO. Put on some music and attack it in bursts with good breaks

Check my latest post here, sorry for the delay

Yeah but at my age and "Eyes" I really sort of need some decent kind of AF if I want it. I won't even buy a C100 without it having DPAF. I really can't see the LCD, even Zebras that well without some kind of glasses on, which I don't wear, just reading glasses. So I would have to put them on to see the screen, take them off to see the scene. You get my point. I guess I could get some bifocals but still sort of a pain. Yeah I would like to try one I guess, the PK4, but probably the wrong time to try and get one if you didn't Pre Order. I think down the road when the dust settles down a person can probably buy one used for 800 bucks body only. Then I can go for that.