Leaderboard

After doing a lot of tests, I haven't got the hang of removing purple frames from 1x3 bining mode though I am really satisfied so far with the MV1080p where I barely have to stretch footage in post. The graphic is amazing so far. I used a 2x Anamorphic adapter to capture the frames using the settings below in Dannes latest build and the Canon EOS M. Crop Mode: MV1080p 1736x1158 Bitrate - 10bit Ratios - OFF RAW Video: Resolution: 1736x1158 Aspect Ratio: 4:3 Data Format - 14Bit Lossless Also, no aliasing or purple frames (at least for now) 2x Anamorphic Adapter + SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 @f2.4

Why not Nikon be first? After all Nikon was first giving us an HDSLR in the first place! ? (Nikon picked up a few other minor firsts too, like the first 4K APS-C DSLR, and numerous firsts in the photography world) And then Panasonic will release the S1 and Sony will have to delay yet again.... Then Fujifilm releases the X-H2 and Sony has to delay yet again Until Panasonic will release the GH6 and Sony will have to delay yet again....

I'm going to have a proper look at these at the BVE show in a few weeks. On the basis that Sennheiser won't have invented their own battery, I think it is highly, highly likely that it uses one of the two battery types that I put on the previous page. Looking at some higher res images, I can see the join in the case where it can be opened so, erm,well,you know, maybe I will be able to be to give a more definitive answer to a battery swap....

Thanks for your feedback, kye! In fact, this was my very first short, so yeah - there is quite some room for improvement The surf shots were filmed using the 100-300mm @ 300mm on a tripod, so yeah - the IBIS was getting in the way quite a bit, but acceptable imo.

I remembered another possible use for 360 cameras. 360 cameras + 8K (or higher) 360 cameras might make a great second angle for professionals who shoot events or weddings, especially if you put them on an extendable pole and put them up high. I think they'd make great wide shots that would look like static drone shots but could be gotten in places you can't feasibly use a drone. Eg, a wide shot of the crowd at a concert (either looking towards the stage, or back from it) or at the back of a wedding ceremony for a wide view of the bride walking down the aisle, etc. This wouldn't be too hard to use either, just mount the camera on an extendable arm and mount it to your tripod (or a separate one), then whenever you setup your camera, hit record on it, extend the arm, forget about it and get your normal shots, then retract the arm, hit stop, and deal with the rest in post. You don't even have to watch the footage it gets, just knowing what shots you want from it and scrubbing back and forth to find a good snippet is enough. A second variation would also be possible: 360 cameras + high MP sensors + crop modes If they implemented modes where you could crop into the sensor to reduce the resolution but up the frame rate then it would be a flexible camera to get specific shots from it, so it wouldn't be a one-trick-pony and wouldn't be limited to allocating its bitrate to the full 360 angle. Like the P4K / GH5 / Sony/ RED cameras that can can downscale the whole sensor or can do a 1:1 crop, and can trade-off resolution for frame rates, imagine if you could have a 360 camera where you position the camera, connect with your phone, engage the crop and frame rate you want, adjust framing (I'd imagine crops would be limited to certain areas of the sensor), then hit record. This would enable the full bitrate to be used for 4K120 at perhaps a 16mm equivalent or 28mm equivalent focal length. You'd get that epic wide shot of the crowd bouncing, the band screaming, the lighting peaking, and the pyrotechnics flaring, but you'd get it well framed, in slow-motion, with plenty of bitrate. Or if you framed the wedding from within an autumn tree you could get that moment of the bride laughing, the guests reacting, and the autumn leaves falling in the wind all in slow-motion. Those are hero shots that would define a style, like how every wedding photographer needs a drone now. Plus these cameras are silent, unobtrusive, and would be pretty small. Imagine if the Insta360 One X was three or four sided, and each had 30-50MP sensors, had the crop modes, and could write 90+MB/s to a microSD card. It would cost more than the consumer 2-camera version and be larger too, but it would still only be the size of a small drone, ie, semi-pocketable. When those sensors are in smartphones none of that tech will be that special, it will be the combination of them that creates the potential. It's also worth noting that the Insta360 Titan can do 11K30, 8K30 in 10-bit and 3D, so the beyond 8K tech isn't a dream either, it's here for pros now. Hell, even if it had four cameras and four microSD card slots and it just recorded full resolution from every camera to each slot and you had to use a merging program in post, that would be fine too if it gave you the quality required.

I've gone a little crazy and ordered a bunch of cheap vintage lenses, some with fungus in them. I've ordered some without fungus, but I'm not 100% that they won't contain any, and cleaning them is probably a good idea anyway, so I'm kind of jumping in at the deep end, and I thought I'd just make a new thread to compile my notes etc. This might be useful because in my reading I've discovered that there are a bunch of threads online about cleaning fungus where people don't know the first thing about anything, so they're just full of BS basically. Here are some interesting links and notes I've gathered so far: Alcohol, vinegar, consumer grade acids, UV from the sun or otherwise, aren't effective (or will damage the lens if concentrated) says a microbiologist, and they recommend caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide) (source) This is a nice tutorial on how to do it and they recommend Hydrogen Peroxide and Household Ammonia (source) Sodium Hydroxide / caustic soda is widely available, but is a powder and must be dissolved to be used, unfortunately neither of the above talk about concentrations to use. Adding it to water also creates a lot of heat, risking splashing, so it's not nice or safe stuff to work with. I've looked for tips from a lens maintenance person and unsurprisingly I couldn't find anyone that would give away trade secrets for free. It's kind of difficult to tell who knows what as lots of people say "I did X and it worked" but the consensus is that storing lenses without lens caps in a relatively well-lit room will prevent fungus growth, so these people might be completely full of it and just have a well-lit room. You can never fully cleanse lenses of fungus (or protect them from it in use either) so you need to view every lens as potentially contaminated and store them somewhere there is light available and is dry. Leaving lens caps off and using a desiccant are commonly recommended strategies. Some suggest using cheap filters instead of lens caps but your mileage may vary. More research is required. The lens tear-down videos I've watched show that many of these old lenses were designed to be serviced and that you can get to the optics without having to mess with the sensitive aperture mechanisms which is really cool. Only one of my fungus lenses has arrived so far, but here's a shot of my new friend.... No, the lens isn't cracked, that's just the edge of the rear of the lens being lit up by the torch. Apart from the colony the lens is super nice, and basically looks new. Anyone else taken the plunge with cleaning lenses?

I am surprised how negative Canon is on the market. Of course smartphones are catching up but isnt that already reflected in sales. Smartphones sold 1.6bn units last year that is over 100x the 11m ILC sales. Some of the market data seems almost optimistic about future sales. https://***URL removed***/news/7183637894/new-study-reveals-insights-of-first-time-interchangeable-lens-camera-owners 72% of future buyers of ILCs dont already own one. 33% of smartphone users considering buying a mirrorless.

There is no Brexit - just Exit!

I never liked Sony though. I just read the nx-1 rolling shutter in 1080p is 7ms, which is the lowest I've seen. Makes me reconsider the camera actually because I don't really need 4K. Every company should have a 16-50 f2-2.8 kit lens

Other than my Canon lenses and a few oddballs, I have a very small set of Nikkor ai-s lenses and the Zeiss. I particularly like the cooler rendering of the Zeiss glass with ML Raw and can see that Arri look you’re referring to. I just bought them a couple of weeks ago, so I’m looking forward to messing with them more. Which 2x Anamorphic did you use in those shots... that’s a wicked image. I know very little about anamorphics but I always thought a Yashicascope could be an interesting pairing with the eos-m in crop mode... but they seem hard to come by.

It's complete and has been for a few weeks but it is actually being held up from release for Brexit related reasons. I shit you not. I'm expecting it to be another two weeks.

I'm blown away by this doc: Everything looks and feels great: sound, composition, lighting (even though it was mostly natural light), motion, color grading. Just perfect. Some BTS and commentary: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5o43HH6ZkE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCy-JYgLPU4

I had success using florescent lights going straight into the lens and putting some aluminum foil on the other side of the lens to reflect the UV back up through the rear element to remove some light fungus from the inside of a Super Tak, I also opened up and cleaned a Rokkor lens that had significant fungus with rubbing alcohol, a week long light treatment and then opening it back up to clean up the dried fungus. The owner of the camera shop in my town recommended using this cleaner https://www.amazon.com/CleanSmart-Toy-Disinfectant-Spray-Bacteria/dp/B011ANDC78 which is normally used to clean kids toys. I haven't tried it yet, but he's restored hundreds of lenses.

Although fungus can be contained and cleaned from lens elements, the main issue to consider is what damage has the fungus already done to the lens coatings? I’ve recently purchased a couple lenses that could use a CLA but I’d rather have them professionally done. But if you find some lenses at a cheap price, no harm at giving it a go. Just be very meticulous when you take the lenses apart, these lenses aren’t as simple as they look and the springs alone can cause you a major headache when trying to reassemble. With that being said, I look forward to your hearing about your progress. Have you come across and good storage solutions for lenses... dry boxes?

C200 can do RAW to Cfast & 2K proxy to SD.

If you search on eBay, you can find good prices on Helios lenses that were already modified to the Nikon mount. I would look for one of those if you intend to use it with your speedbooster. Using adapters to Nikon F mount can be tricky, a lot of them need glass adapters or won’t hit infinity focus. So I would search for someone that already modified the lens mount and guarantees infinity focus and obviously check the sellers feedback. Good luck.

A second term for Trump is more likely to increase sales of the other type of Cannon... Its interesting though that if Canon really do think the end is nigh for 'real' cameras whether they might actually take the opportunity to make some hay while the sun is still shining and drop the slow drip shenanigans, unleash what everyone knows their cameras are capable of and make sure that they get a bigger share of what's left. It could happen, couldn't it ? Canon ? What do you say Canon?

Damn. You're right, I think I confused myself. My 44-2 doesn't have a pin and the aperture is fully manual. My other Helios, which I bought as a 44-4, but is only labelled 44M, has the pin and a Manual/Auto switch. According to camerapedia the M just means m42 mount. But there are heaps of people who have lenses that don't have switches and can't set the aperture manually. I also checked the Fotga adapter, and it definitely doesn't press the pin. Looks like the advice is to get a 44-2 or make sure you get the manual/auto switch. Sorry @Stab, hope you didn't hit ebay in the last couple of hours? ???

Already exists for sub $2K! The Z Cam E2

6hrs is a deal breaker for so many of us. And within a few years the battery life will be halved. Who the hell wants wireless that goes for only 3hrs?? I don't care. Would rather hope the Sony UWP-D11 gets a price cut.... A non-issue that small price difference when you're talking about a wireless purchase, for what you get.

NZ is bloody hot at the moment! And Sony has such a bad rep with overheating, I remember my Sony a5100 overheating after each gimbal take even during winter time at night!

I feel (I say "feel" because I never owned a NX1) that the rolling shutter wasn't the deal breaker that most people made it out to be. As rolling shutter is only truly terrible in a scene for some kinds of certain shots, so you'd shoot 4K most of the time then switch over to 1080 (for which the NX1 has some of the best rolling shutter performance on the planet!) for those specific shots which need it (perhaps a fight scene which is going to have heaps of crazy whip pans).

As far as I know there's no RAW capable camera that can record a proxy in cam. I think your best bet would be to use a Blackmagic Pocket 4K for RAW, and then use a Ninja Star to record to ProRes LT/Proxy in 1080p from the HDMI. Since the P4K can only output 1080p, there's no point getting anything that can record 4K. The Ninja Star is super cheap now, and will be perfect unless you also needed a monitor. I can run on C.Fast 1.0 cards and the battery lasts for ever. Depending on how you're using the camera, you could easily forget the Star is even part of your shooting experience. I've tested it, and to my surprise the record button on the camera triggers the Star to capture. That doesn't happen with many other cameras that have been released in the last few years. I think Atomos changed their protocol after releasing the Star. Of course, once Braw hits this camera, a proxy workflow could well be obsolete.

The 44-4 doesn't need the adapter to push the pin, so get that one and get the cheapest adapter that looks sturdy. I've bought a number of cheap Chinese adapters and they're all solid and work fine for me. I've currently got my 44-4 on a Fotga non-SB adapter as a 116mm equivalent lens, and my 44-2 on a cheap Chinese SB (it's a SB and mount adapter in one) as a 80mm lens, but I've got more lenses in-transit so I'm not sure if they'll stay in my lineup. They are quite soft, and prone to flare from highlights within the frame, so I might end up liking a more generic lens instead. Now I've found the 5K mode on my GH5 that has much less sharpening I don't need the lenses to do as much softening for me. Vintage lenses are so cheap, plentiful and interesting that it's hard to fight the urge to try all of them Not to tempt you (ha ha ???) but there are some other nice lenses similar to the Helios. I've got a Mir 1B 37mm f2.8 on order that's meant to be the 35mm equivalent of the Helios, so that'll be interesting when it arrives. You can even buy them new!

Best Kiteboarding ??.

Zeiss color rendering I think goes hand in hand with Canon ML Raw. I used to have a Sony A6300 which I sold to keep the EOS M instead, and the Zeiss lenses were never as good as they were on my old 5DII, III and 6D. I think the 6D is a great B-Cam, producing in my opinion (ARRI Like footage) when paired with Zeiss lenses. I'm not sure what the builds are like now on the 6D though.

Speaking of Tom Antos. Really good idea.

If you have to adjust the ND manually then it's no easier than having a variable ND on the front. It's probably better optically, but it's the fact the camera can expose for me without mucking up the aesthetics that is what I'm interested in. I want the ND to be controlled by the camera automatically like the FS5.

This is awesome. I haven't been successful with Danne's built - for I don't know exactly what I'm doing. Who knew that Canon's EOS-M is right up there with the big boys. ::thumbs up::

What's going on there? Looks like some serious BK pollution in that image.

The a7s outputs 4k to an external recorder through HDMI.

Maybe he meant the A7S2 as well. I mean they were good for the time. That number almost makes me want to buy an NX1, if only for the 16-50mm ?

You can count with the stretched preview but also with a slow one that let's you Frame correctly. You can have both, and actívate the Slow one with half shutter presses.

Looks good Chris; Did you end up monitoring with the .vlt, or 709? Here are some stills from the weekend:

I just bought a few old Carl Zeiss lenses for Rollei QBM mount that I am obsessed with on my 5D3. Even the f/2.8 lenses have that creamy Zeiss bokeh. I didn’t realize the 6D ML was that good... do you think it would be a good B-Cam for a 5D3?

(quoting @jase comment in the other thread - to see the image full size you have to click through to the other thread) Thanks, that's very helpful I can see what you mean about there being an equivalent amount of detail but with less sharpening. In fact it's quite a difference in sharpening, I didn't realise there was that much of it being applied TBH. On the whole though, it doesn't seem like there is really much downside to using it. Looking at individual frames really blows me away, such a great looking image

That jello is absolutely disgusting

Alright. Not about specs really though. If the UMP crops in 1080 RAW but not 1080 Braw, then chances are P4k will do the same. If UMP does still crop in Braw, then the P4k will also still crop. It’s ok if you don’t know. Neither do I.

Thanks. That's good. Reformat the card with my Nikon, placed the LUT at the root and everything works fine. (Before format the card on my iMac in FAT)

I don't think you can get even close to that much latitude or processing from normal Prores.

WOW, I thought it was a joke, I am bewildered, I was hopeful Nikon would do some firmware update, but this one is out of this world. My z6 in arriving in two days, it is as if I am getting a new camera. I hope they do it for the 1080 version also. For those asking about raw 6k to 4k etc, Nikon has some lower rez raw format for photo already, they might use the same system for video. This is another Canon 5d moment. I am sure people in Sony, Pana and Canon HQ are in panic mode. This camera will more or less beat anything below 30 000 USD. It will be a full frame Raw camera with at least 14 stop of DR, low light that will beat every APSC photo/video camera, very good IBIS and slowmotion etc. The only place it will be beaten is slow motion and Nikon is coming with a full set of video centric lens that will be a bargain in the video/cinema world. Does anyone know the different bitrate of prores raw. I have seen Black Magic ones but I don't know compression of Prores Raw.

My A7III look more and more outdated...

haha, poor Sony will have to postpone the a7SIII launch yet again

Amazong. So is this the first hybrid camera to natively offer RAW video? I would never have guessed that Nikon would be first.