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Pocket 4k with Metabones XL and Zeiss CP.2 shot in BRAW 5:1

video those toadstools for about a minute then zoom out and have godzilla stomp all over them, hey presto you will win the $!50 video challenge... how easy is that ? btw you can keep the camera ?

I'm waiting for someone to spend $2000 on 10 entries

It's a tool. If you use it with consideration it can be effective. If you use it just because "it looks cinematic" then you're making a sort of lazy assumption. I tend to rely on it for a lot my shooting as I'm trying to make uncontrolled settings tamer by limiting what my viewer can see; focusing on what I want them to focus on. I've found it effective for some of my documentary work. I've also found deep focus great for a lot of my shots as well. Here's a simple example from a doc my wife and I shot 5 years ago on a GM1 and GX7: Nothing fancy there, but imagine if it was deep focus. You'r eye would go so many different directions and not be drawn to the smile. As someone that watches A LOT of film festival submissions, you know straight away when someone is behind the camera and making informed decisions. And, yes, a lot of crappy movies are shot by people that shoot deep focus because they're not even thinking about it. It shows. That doesn't mean deep focus is bad. After all, some of my favorite movies are from Sergio Leone. The skill to use the gear is far and away so much more important than any "X vs. Y" technical scenario. Wisdom will adapt to any situation. Ignorance won't.

HDV 1080 was about 25Mbit/s. Cameras like the Canon HV20/30 would still be relatively interesting as a really bargain basement option if they included one of the 35mm adapters with them. CCD mojo That Fisher Price camera that I posted above above actually records to cassette. As in audio cassette. So its less a case of a bit rate and more a case of a bit shit.

Focus pullers should not be worried. I mean there are tons of creative decisions that you can do with a focus puller, that you couldnt do with DPAF. Allthough If you are doing a following shot or something DPAF seems to work better and a lot cheaper and faster too. So it depends on the situation, or what you are trying to achieve.

I was pondering getting one of these to deliberately finish last with and spite the winner ! But I then discovered that, shockingly, the money they change hands for wouldn't actually fit in the budget. Must be because they are CCD and not CMOS so ergo must have more mojo .

In this test they pit the Canon EOS R's DPAF against the Arri Alexa Mini with a dedicated focus puller, using a $100k focusing system. Keep in mind the Canon also supports touch to focus with a tablet or smartphone (though this was not tested). Which do you think did better?

This is a great example of the beauty of ML Raw on the 5D3... coincidently this is @zerocool22 ‘s video so he could have some insight into his process. I love my 5D3 and ML Raw and have yet to find a camera I would choose over it. The OG Pocket and Micro are also great choices and the P4K looks to be a pretty great camera as well. But for me, there is just something about that FF Raw image that is undeniable. With that being said, it’s not for everybody.

OK... now I am interested ! There is special sales for the M50 right now : 400€ body only ! 150€ off, which pay the viltrox speedbooster... And MPB.com has a eos M for 110€ ahah. Might be good, to try experimenting with Ml. Ah, and they got 5d's iii in good conditions for around 1050€ Hm... I should not had read this sub forum ?

@JordanWright The best camera device for what it is in the right hands ever! (E : -) cDNG is a way better but .braw doesn't visibly diminish it.

I'm totally with you...however...have you had any bugs with the EM1X? I owned two of them and both had crazy firmware bugs. Like the camera locks up and doesn't let me take photos, or in video mode all of a sudden the buttons get all whacked out and don't work. Gotta be just early firmware issues. If I can get a good deal on an EM1X I'd go with that over the EM1mkii. Great perspective though on pricing. It is cheaper than the Sony a6400 and is a much better option for most people. Ya...I won't let go of the 1DC again. I think its an important camera and it's a camera I want to always have in my collection. The Leica Q feels excessive. I may sell that honestly lol. I want to pick up that Panny Leica 10-25mm f1.7 for the Olympus system and I'll be set.

I think I would like to try a Canon M50 with a Speedbooster on it down the road.

Yes, exactly ! Evf, form factor, all the small "gadgets" that make your life easier... would be hard to be back to the big tanks ? Some guys on the magic lantern forum seem to progress with the EOS R. Would be great, but also could take years to come (if it ever comes !)...

Yeah but without ML they are not so hot on the video side. Photos are nice though. They are a big hunk of a camera though when you get used to Mirrorless cameras.

I do not know if it has already been posted (sorry if that is the case) : I may be able to buy a camera during the next months, after I let my z6 go (financial reasons, not the camera...). As I won't be able to spend a lot of money, I started to watch a lot of videos from moderate budget cameras and... no matter what I watch, I always come back to the 5D iii... From all the cameras I am thinking about, I really like the image from the og bmpcc, I like the new bmpcc4 too (a little less though), but I am really love the 5D one ; wow, what a mojo ! The best thing to happen would be a final release for the 5D IV !

Damn, nice! Skin tones bang on.

A couple of days ago, I was leaving a meeting at a local university, to which I am making a corporate documentary and I found a civic demonstration. Everything was quiet, I took out my Gopro, to make a small audiovisual record, out of nowhere a police bus appeared, releasing water and dissuasive gases, the powerful jet hit me directly to the body, the camera fell to the wet floor. Fortunately nothing happened to him. For this and several reasons I have learned that by size, price and portability, the best camera to always have in the backpack, is an action camera. Who would have imagined a few years ago, that you were going to carry a 4k camera, with stabilizer, waterproof and shock, in such a small size and for less than 300 dollars in your pocket. I must say that the DJI Osmo Pocket, seduces me by the amount of functions that it has, but I think that it would not resist a deal, as I described previously. If you're interested, I can upload some videos later.

Tell me about it bro! I've got enough cameras to open a branch of B&H The Techart adapter has not quite landed yet.... It has however, actually shipped and is somewhere in Europe. Expected delivery date tomorrow Monday 1st July! Once the eagle has landed I'll report back on the EOSHD wire.

Sigma recently spoke about a new camera to be released in 2020 with a full frame Foveon sensor. No news on if low light performance will be improved, or if it will shoot video yet.

For the Pocket4K, I know of a device that uses a wheel to manually control the speed of the pull between two marked points on electronic lenses. My main takeaway from the video is how insanely priced the ultrasonic "AF" systems for the cinema cameras are.

Well with an ipad, I dont think its easy to control the speed of the focus pull, sometimes you want it very slow, sometimes very fast. Sometimes you want to do a ramp, from slow to fast, or from fast to slow, or stop before anything really is in focus(no focus mark) I think you can only do these kind of things with an actual manual controller.

I do agree that the tech is amazing lately, but I strongly disagree with the core of your comment. My impression of it is that you have never worked on a real production or understand exactly what the job of a focus puller is. Focus pulling is not only technical but artistic as well. The way the focus puller works distincts him/her from other professionals and make his/hers career. Pulling focus is not exactly keep an object in focus, you can do that taping a screen, but usually the artistry and the tone that sets the movement is before reaching your focus objective. I used to use the C100mkII and now the C200 all the time, but AF was never more than 5-10% of my workflow. Maybe even less. On another note, a few TV productions here are using the Tilta wireless focus with gimbals a lot lately, it is almost a stable in the workflow and a trend I see going on for the next couple of years at least.

I don't, but it's not because I forget. The reason you don't get sdof is because it's a 6mm lens. You get the exact same dof you would on a medium format with a 6mm from the same distance. Aperture is set for the exposure, so applying crop factor to it is simply weird imo.

Like Gregg Toland? That guy was such a hack.

The dancer was sick but this was kinda of a silly test. The better AC was like neck and neck with the DPAF. I think if you put in a 10+ year AC vet or a Pro Sports Camera man they would exceed any autofocus system. It really comes down to the skill of the AC, not to mention most legit video lenses don't have AF motors.

New picture taken with the FD 35-105 F/3.5 on Canon T2i

Beware, the image coming out of the 80D HDMI port has function items on the screen, meaning you will record the internal information about camera features overlaid on the image from the sensor.

New firmware just arrived: https://forum.dji.com/thread-192489-1-1.html And here is how to do it:

Here is an S1 frame grab with my beloved contax Zeiss 50mm 1.7, this was shot in HLG and hasn't been graded at all, just pulled from rec2020 back into rec709. I think the color and dynamic range speaks for itself:

A couple more from the 7Artisans 28mm f1.4 that I got the other week.

I think the camera should remain secret until after the vote. When doing camera side by sides we all know people vote for the one that should be best if presented with their identities. If there was a max budget for camera+lens+mic+what have you, then speed boosters should be fine.

I haven’t used the NX1 much for personal use. Now that it’s been liberated from work I’ve been testing it out on one of my passions, shooting the northern lights and a few days ago tried the light trails mode. Whatever voodoo Samsung put in this camera makes it shoot perfect northern light photos with this setting, without having to do anything but point the camera in the right direction. However I cannot find a way to make the intervolameter in the ‘s’ mode work at all. Do any of you know if there is a menu I’m missing or if there is a work around? Since the NX1 will automatically make a 4K video in camera I’d love to set it up every night for the next month while the aurora activity is high and hopefully capture the lights without really having to think about it. i can’t recommend using the light trails mode enough for the northern lights (or southern lights coming up in a few months). Every and I mean every shot is perfectly exposed and the colors are incredible.

*** RESOLVED! *** A few guys over on facebook suggested using a hair dryer. And it seemingly did the trick! That, WD40 and a shit load of hard taps to the focus barrel ? Here's the process I used: Apply WD40 into the grooves of the focus barrel. Wipe off the excess liquid and leave for 24hrs. Use hair dryer on low setting, high heat over focus barrel and inside grooves. Tap hard around focus barrel with palm. Try to twist barrel and tap some more. repeat step 2 (if needed). repeat step 3 (if needed). Hopefully this might be of help to others too. Next Step: Clean, re-grease, re-build and at some point -- TEST. Best, -- B