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Well, its been a while and its changed quite a bit.... But this is your official 7 day countdown for pre-orders opening on 12/12/19. As the festive season is approaching then in true advent calendar style, open this thread every day for more stuff. PBC Tease 1.mp4

If his macbook worked fine for him he doesn't nessesarily need a big update. A used one that was a gen or two after his would work fine and probably save him a lot of cash.

Because it causes aliasing and loss of resolution, basically you are alternating lines, one high iso, the next low iso. And when you combine them you have less resolution as if you would have shot at one iso only. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here a worst case sigma Fp test, lit with some little energy saving light that outputs horrible color. Iso 6400, 8 bit cdng. manual focus85 mm lens handheld https://www.dropbox.com/sh/biq7g9afi999lmi/AABRYDSG9spbYp0WJ5l5g-SAa?dl=0

Can we swop Advent calendars please? I got a steam train this morning.

Ahmm.. some LUT ?? dialed around 50% plus my grade. I can share a LUT if you want. Movie-117.cube

Two new packages added to my collection. Details here: http://colorizer.net/index.php?op=aces

Magic Lantern shoots native 14 bit DNG image sequences and puts each sequence into a .MLV container. If you mount the container as a drive, you literally copy/paste DNG frames out of the container--you don't actually have to convert anything. For 12 and 10 bit, Magic Lantern truncates the words which is why there is a DR penalty. (Or at least that was the case last time I used it, which was a few years ago). I can dig up some of my old footage if you can't find any samples online.

The C200 doesn't have any NR issues in RAW. I don't like the strong filtered MP4 output though. Color in C-Log 2(RAW) is fantastic. Much different beast though. The S1 has the noise reduction and gamut related issues fixed but we S1H owners have to wait much longer probably because the RAW update isn't ready yet...

I just looked it up- “The LCD monitor is darkened to reduce battery use when the camera has not been operated for eight seconds.” Also, everyone here is running the updated firmware? I don’t have my camera here with me at the moment, so I can’t test, but I know you can’t use zebras if focus peaking is on.

@deezid Don't hold your breath. If anyone getting RAW first it the z6...and that's about six months overdue. Also...what camera you going to choose for your trip?

If you don't need slow motion, Sony A7III has great AF and 4K 24fps, though the codec is a bit weak. Also the IBIS is horrible IMO, but functional. If you expose properly you can get great results in resolve with a bit of finesse. BMPCC cameras require a bunch of rigging and basically no AF-C. Z-cam is similar, no AF-C, multiple models, some have better footage than others. GH5 can be great too, I just don't like the colors, contrast, the poor AF, and the deep DOF. That being said it is quite light and is a workhorse. I just find it hard to work with to get the results I want, though I admit that if you know how to finesse it in post it can look amazing too. S1h, too expensive and lack of AF. Apparently good footage but 60p has a crop. XT-3 does have a bunch of positives, decent af-c, good colors, aps-c sensor, but no IBIS. Nikon Z series looks terrible to me, everyone here praises it though. Every single clip I've seen looks weirdly oversharpened, the color is ok though. "Everyone" (the rest of us not making films) is waiting for something affordable that has good color, good codec, AF-C and 4K 60fps full frame. Nothing comes close right now, unless you want something like the $15K Canon C500 mark II. Red Komodo might come close (APS-C). A7SIII would do it too (maybe), except it's 2 years late and nowhere to be found, I've written it off as it is depressing me too much waiting for it. So... nothing does it all. My vote is A7III if you want the full frame look. Has decent DR, decent color, just poop IBIS, codec, and no 4K60p. The IBIS, at least for me, can add bad random frame shakes that require stabilization in post, but I live with it. All that being said, you can great results with any of these systems if you work for it, some just make it easier than others depending on what you want. Good luck!

Thanks for your reply. I really don’t understand why Panasonic do not try to fix it fast?? I think the advantage of S1h is to be used without any external recorder and ghosting issues are really a problem to deliver professional results...

And through the 6 day countdown window today we have this. The PBC has two buttons but with their three operation modes (single click, double click, long click) you can assign up to 6 different controls to them so you can have aperture up and down on single click, record start/stop on a long click etc. Or not. Its up to you so you can just use it as a simple record start/stop controller if thats all you need. The status screen also takes care of syncing settings that you have made on the camera as well as on the PBC so, again, there is no restriction on how you use it so if you want to just use it as a pseudo top plate display then thats fine. And talking of status monitoring, the PBC features a very unsubtle tally indicator method so you will be left in no doubt whatsoever if the camera is in record mode Another window opening event tomorrow.

As an aside, i did a quick bit of comparison with an SSD plugged in now. I think it was pretty expected: 12 bit DNGs, the best quality both in Shadows and Highlights - the shadows are also not biased green 10 bit DNGs, these are identical to 8 bit in the shadows, band for band. However the highlights roll off with more data in so they match the 12 bit and work with highlight reconstruction better 8 bit same shadow performance as the 10 bit and the highlights reach the same overall range but the values in the highlights are less tonal and this yields magenta tints. So highlight reconstruction not so quite as good as the others. In all cases i found it near impossible to 'break' the midtones I wonder whether that linearisation curve in the 8 bit is a little off with respect to each of the channels, with green tint in shadows and magenta in highlights or (more likely) that's a result of just not enough discreet steps. cheers Paul

The 50mm 1.7 is a great lens and so cheap. If you want to try some great Pentax lenses, the "K" versions were their first k-mount lenses after the Takumars and most of them are the same optical formula as their SMC Takumar counterparts without the radioactive glass, so no yellowing. The 50mm 1.4 is a beautiful hunk of glass.

Unfortunately I don't have a GoPro (got the clips from a friend), but if you send me a clip with people, I can show you how it would look. Remember that the color mode must be flat, and white balance must be native.

I'm da behind schedule man, certainly.

Colorizer.net is my stuff, thanks @Deadcode for mentioning it. I also have Fuji film simulation LUTs specially designed for S-Log2/S-Gamut3.cine, if you're interested. (I used an A6300 for the conversions.)

Been using FCPX to edit then to Resolve for color. Yeah, I did notice the highlight saturation too when using Pro. Might have to try SLog2 with Sgamut3.Cine again with the workflows described here. Totally forgot about ACES, will try that too.

Do you own these? An alternative for MFT is the SLR Magic 8mm F4. Not quite as wide but the image quality is pretty decent and they’re not too expensive. I just upgraded to the 7.5mm F2 Laowa to get the extra aperture, but the SLR Magic IQ was fine.

Agree with the above about getting a refurbed or second-hand mac. PCs can be good too, especially when looking at previous generations. One thing to be careful of, and not something I know much about, is that there’s a couple of different types of computers out there. Without getting too technical, if you think about computers we had before the internet, they basically did everything themselves. You had software and it was on your computer, and your computer did all the work. Now, there are lots of things “in the cloud” and some things (take Gmail for example) are computer programs running on a computer somewhere else. Accessing Gmail using a web browser (or any webmail) is a good example because you load up the web page of gmail and the gmail server goes and looks at your email and crunches the data in the server, then sends the web-page to your device. The program is running on the google server and you’re basically looking at the screen over the internet connection. Lots of software is like this - you look at it through a web browser. So, they made computers that were designed to just access things online (like webmail, google docs, etc) and the idea is that you just need a computer that can run a web browser and all the processing is done by a server “in the cloud”. This makes these computers cheaper because they don’t need to have lots of CPU or RAM or whatever, but the problem is that they’re not designed to run without an internet connection. I’m sure someone else will explain this whole thing much better, but the general idea is that unless your brother works with everything online, he’s better off with a real computer rather than one of these things. IIRC the Chromebook is one of these, and I think there were others.

Ohh Takata belts ? i remember them days getting pulled by gards and asking why in the world id have them instead of ordinary seatbelets on my 9

I think I know which version you mean, but to be 100% sure I'd need some pictures of it. Nevertheless, Cineluxes that feature focus ring are humongous. They weigh over 4 pounds. Not sure if that's what you're looking for. ( : Cinelux is slightly bigger than Blue Star / Ultra Star. Like a 0.7 cm wider, 1.5 cm longer and 80g heavier. It's got bigger glass elements, though. It's not that bad! I'll send some photos of the rig later. I know the feeling. Regarding Pentax - the 50/1.7 M is my current favorite, it may be the best nifty-fifty I have ever owned. It's tiny, fun to use and provides a great looking image.

Mine arrived early today. So far its great. In premiere 2020 i can multicam edit non choppy 4 streams on a 4k sequence. c100mk 2 upscaled, uhd braw converted prores, xc10 4k, and bmpcc original up scaled. Before on the 2018 560x this would choke up after a few secs of multicam editing. All smooth now.

You da man

The only HLG 2 shot is of my dog. Everything else was shot in slog 2 and remapped to slog 3 then converted to Rec 709 in post. Doesn't have as much DR, but the HLG is really easy to work with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSIA03ZU908 To those who wonder on 3rd party app compatibility, here is: http://bit.ly/2kqAUP8 Hope this helps! E : -)

A little better guidance on your brother's actual price-range would be helpful. Having said that, if, after looking at non-Mac alternatives your brother decides he wants to stay within Apple's ecosystem, one can comfortably stay in the Mac realm for well-under a grand with an Apple refurb... Refurbished Mac - Apple: https://www.apple.com/shop/refurbished/mac ...(link posted for informational purposes only, I have no affiliation with Apple. Mod kindly inform and remove link if I'm in violation of TOS.) Wish I could offer some suggestions on the PC side of things, but I'm Mac-only since '95. Hopefully some other posters will chime in with suggestions?! :)

A guy told you. Samsung T5 portable SSDs which are among the approved ones are 90$ for 500Gb and 137$ for 1Tb on Amazon. And that's cheap for me, cheaper even than SD cards per GB. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T5-Portable-SSD-MU-PA1T0B/dp/B073H552FJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1HC73MBGQQW2C&keywords=samsung+t5+portable+ssd&qid=1575587372&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=samsung+t5%2Caps%2C252&sr=8-3 And on approved media BMPCC 4K has no limitations By the way tried a Micron M2 SSD in an enclosure just because of the smaller dimensions. And BMPCC 4K didn't recognize the drive. But read other people were successful using non approved SSDs. So it's up to you. I use Samsung T5 and SD cards. BMPCC 4K can record BRAW 5:1 on a SD card and that's good enough for 90% of what I shoot. For the rest there is Samsung T5 SSD.

this is from the genius Sage. Brilliant work. cant wait to use this on the p4k shoots I have lined up. Sage has to do a pipeline tutorial because for some reason, folks arent following the pdf

Don't do it, unless it's an experiment. Just stick with the approved media unless you want headaches. IF you do do the experiment, let us know what happens (dropped frames etc).

Blocked and reported

Well done, congratulations! (I hope I won't offend anyone with this hidden US flag.)

I continue to edit down videos from my recent trip. I did bring the gimbal with me, but almost have not used it. So all hand-held again. Perfecting my ninja moves though ??

Finally sat down with footage from over a month ago. Shot for about 45 minutes with this guy, grabbed some goofy audio, and eventually put in my afternoon of editing. I used a Helios-44-2. So, 116mm FF equiv on the M43 camera I used. Lens had a variable ND filter on it.

IMHO most likely crappy debayering combined with some serious 'clarity' adjustments in that last shot. Whilst i'm all for destruction testing images i also have to balance with i don't shoot like that. I'm more interested in the things that do show all the time, tonality and range. If you ever get to push lightroom around on high contrast edges check some really odd debayering artefacts - and this is supposed to be pro-stills level. The beauty of debayering is the ability to choose different algorithms depending on scene - of course no one actually offers that... cheers Paul

I currently shoot with a Panasonic g7. Any plans to make one of these for the Panasonic cameras with Cinelike D like the g7/g85?

Sold : -)

The Blackmagic RAW highlight and shadow rolloff sliders affect the roll off of the "S" contrast curve you create with the custom gamma controls. If you add no contrast, they will do nothing as there's nothing to roll off. Increase (or lower) contrast and they will start to take affect. Choose "Extended Video" from the gamma selection in the Blackmagic RAW panel and you will see it's actually just a custom S curve with saturation preset via the custom gamma controls - you can start to modify it to your taste and the "gamma" automatically changes from "Extended Video" to "Custom". Or you can start from scratch with "Blackmagic Film". If you want the highlight/shadows sliders that were in DNG panel, those are not RAW specific controls and are still available in the 2nd tab of the primaries (same algorithm as found in DNG tab and same exact effect on Blackmagic RAW clips as DNG). If transforming to another log curve or colour space helps you get what you want faster, great! Different log curves like ARRI/Red or using highlight roll off sliders/presets don't give you anything you can't do yourself by using the curves tool etc, but not everyone is experienced with that stuff. Our log curves preserve the full sensor dynamic range though so the highlight roll off is completely in your hands, or you can start with another log curve if it suits. Something I tend to do a bit is expose for the native ISO in camera, then later in the RAW tab I switch to the highest ISO possible and compensate middle grey with the exposure slider which will lower contrast and have the most highlight roll off we offer in our log curves for a particular camera. I start with Extended Video from the gamma drop down and tweak the contrast/sat and highlight/roll off sliders for the shot. Adjust white balance/tint and that gets me 90-95% there with most footage.

You can't talk about the new MBP without talking about its potential shortcomings and alternatives. Just like in any other gear thread. I understand it might be annoying if you have no interest in switching systems but it's inevitable these things will be brought up. Btw, a pretty thorough video was already posted showing the video editing performance increase you can expect with the new MBP.