Leaderboard

That's weird... I would have expected it to be out of focus then... (Yes, I own an S1)

I know people want to instantly take a photo and upload it to Instagram or social media of choice, but I feel like there is Much better way to do this than to have some bloated android phone operating system. technologies that come to mind are WiFi6 and Apple AirDrop. You could easily have fast enough speeds (up to 9.6Gbps) and seamless “push to phone” in the background for photos. Some kind of streaming protocol would need to be used for video. No App One time configuration That way smartphones can stay smartphones without some lenses protruding out the front and cameras can have fast physical controls and snappy boot times and non of this touch screen only rubbish. Improve the communication protocols. There is a ton of slack in the line. Or better yet, realize there is a benefit of not everything being connected with apps and notifications and social crap.

D is the digital cinema resolution of 8K (like 4096 x 2160 is for DCI 4K) U is the TV standard like Ultra HD

$300 Unfortunately crap. In terms of the concept - what the Panasonic G100 should have been? Needs much smaller optics.

My camera isn't built up at the moment. But the principle is get the camera as far back on your shoulder as possible, most builds I see are far too front heavy. And I use arri rosettes as much as possible, as they firmly lock into place. Edit: Just found this picture of me from four years ago shooting a short film with the F3, this isn't how I'd rig it up today, but gives you at least a rough rough idea:

Nobody said that he was the only one, but he is at the live event so I think it is safe to asume that at least he got one already. Seem they invested in popular social media figures instead of filmmakers that shoot shortfilms/commercials, or maybe not. We will see. I do miss those years where camera's were given to "Vincent Laforet" for the C300 commercial, or Philip Bloom for the GH3 commercial,... those were the kind of video's that made me want to buy the camera's. (and I did)

Hope a firmware update will clear up the menu on the 1DX III ... this one is much cleaner.

saw it from fb

im in. this is from 1.6x scope, first test with 50f2:

Actually I find it easy on the eye and reads better when browsing it on my phone, when compared to the old font. Everyone's a critic these days.

Matching different cylinders glass from different anamorphic scope is equivalent of a cylindrical Galilean telescope running backwards, finding a match with different systems that meet the afocal condition. Here are few prototypes I put together and some sample shots. I hope you like, thanks! .

I visited a site the other day that said it was targeted at professionals and amateurs, but the registration process required a link to your showreel or portfolio, which struck me as a bit strange considering I always associated those with being a pro. But it got me thinking - why not create a showreel? Yes, it would be terrible compared to the pros, but I'm not looking for work so in a way, who cares? It could also be a fun project that could be a real learning experience, especially if I post it asking for feedback. Has anyone who isn't looking for work or to attract others to a project ever made a showreel or portfolio? What were your experiences? The more I think about it, the more it seems like a good idea.

They also do support filmmakers too. My friend was able to trial the c200 for free back then to shoot on one of his job from Canon NZ. Though he dont do youtubes and just starting doing podcast this year, as not every filmmaker is comfortable in front of the camera. He was able to get hands on the R5, the only 2 in NZ! Unfortunately i cant get info from him due to NDA but seems someone else leaked some info anyway.

You are far too easily swayed by adverts, by the sounds of it. You're absolutely right. A lot of people will be looking forward to the glossy lifestyle EOS R5 videos from McKinnon. But some of us have real art work to do and cinematography.

Nikon 16-35 on Nikon Z6

I use the 1/8 Black Promist filter on that exact lens A LOT, and I highly recommend it. Subtle, but great.

That is conceptually (minus the Bluetooth) how the FlashAir card works. You switch the camera on, it creates a wifi network which your phone automatically attaches to (or it can connect to your phone if preferred), you take the shots , it transfers them to the phone automatically in the background and they appear on the phone in a folder exactly as if they were taken with the phone. The big upside against all of the native wifi transfer functions built into cameras is that you can carry on shooting while its transferring previous files and that gives the same workflow as the pro Nikon and Canon DSLRs with their dedicated, and expensive, add on network modules. The other big upside is that it works the same on every camera you put it in so you don't have to wrestle with different interfaces on the cameras and a bunch of different apps on the phone for each camera type you are using. In terms of transfer speed, as an example, it gets a 7.5mb jpeg from my fp onto my phone and ready to be edited or shared on social media or whatever about 5 seconds after pressing the shutter with RAWs obviously taking proportionately longer. As its all done automatically and hands-free then it is integrated enough and fast enough for my needs to be as seamless as having the phone built into the camera or the camera built into the phone, whichever way round you want to look at it ! The restriction for some, though. may come in terms of the card read/write speed itself which is 90/70MB/s. Its plenty for stills of course and a lot of flavours of video as well but might not cut it for some formats.

So that means the 4K 24p comes from 8K readout with serious rolling shutter then 😃 Yes that's how it works. Ambassadors can't mention other brands. They are salesmen who have people fooled into thinking they're Stanley Kubrick

for some reason i couldn't. The footage was always kinda mushy looking too... It had a lot of promise but ultimately didn't deliver.

Just upgraded from the 4k to the 6k and thought i'd share some thoughts. I think they have updated the packaging again because my unit was significantly different than either version i've seen online. There was no scratches or scuffs to the body and the sensor was clean and clear. One of my main concerns with the 6K was how tight the fit of the lens mount would be but upon testing, my unit was great. It is very tight and holds the lens much better than the my 4k did. All ports/connections work correctly. The only issue I have a few stuck pixels on the monitor (not sensor). Its not a huge deal but not nice to see on a brand new camera. I have read that all LCD monitors have a few and often warranty doesn't cover it but i've opened a ticket with Blackmagic to see what they say. They have always been incredible in the past! I don't remember seeing any stuck pixels on my 4K (although I didn't look for them). Battery life appears slightly worse than the 4k. Approx 46m to 42m continuous recording in 4k ProRes to a Cfast card. Obviously requires larger and faster cfast cards mine are already on the approved list but I might pick up 1 or 2 more. Also the 6k feels much heavier than the 4k and is slightly louder although not enough to hear even in an interview setup. Don't block the bottom fans on the 6k, the camera expels a lot of heat during long recordings. These are only initial tests, i'll need more time with the camera to form a better opinion, I haven't used it on an actual shoot yet. I also didn't have the cameras side by side. I really see the 4k and 6k as complimentary cameras that both have positives and negatives. Price wise, it was only a £100 upgrade from the 4k & SB to the 6k. I also find it incredible that I sold my 4k & a speed booster for the exact price I purchased them for brand new almost 2 years ago. The Dynamic range isn't miles apart but is improved. The 6k appears to do much better in the highlights but might have a touch more noise in the shadows. Although this is offset when putting the 6k file in a 4k timeline. To my eye, the colour is very similar. Samples online show the 6k to have slightly more accurate skin tones but, without a side-by-side, you'll never tell the difference. It's worth noting that the 6k does have more rolling shutter, the 4k is much more controlled in this area. The 6k has a larger sensor (1.55x to the 4k's 1.89x) but a speed booster gives the 4k a much wider FOV (1.22x using the Metabones XL). However, I've found that speed boosters mess with the image too much. I personally wouldn't recommend one. Ive picked up a new sigma 18-35mm as my standard zoom. It would also work very well as a standard zoom for the 4k (non-speedbooster). The sigma isn't my favourite lens, but you can't beat the range and the speed and performance for the price. My Tok 28-70 was way too telephoto for the 6k (it was on the edge for the 4k XL). On a side note, the sigma Is MUCH contraster and sharper than the Tokina. I might try out a low-con style filter. Recommendations welcome!

Kodak Atlanta are the lab I’ll use if I have a choice, yeah. This had to be developed and scanned by Pro8mm at the time, KFLATL were closed down because of COVID restrictions. They did a good job, but Kodak’s scans are just a hair more crisp.

Now all they have to do is improve the software on both the camera and the phone to make it as seamless as using a phone. I know phones are good enough for most people. They are for me for the “quick snaps” but they fall woefully short in about everything else. The first camera manufactures that actually sits down with Apple and Google and says: “we would like work with you to come up with the most seamless way to get photos taken off our cameras into your smartphones as seamlessly as possible” will do better in the long run. Imagine just having Bluetooth on your phone and camera. You configure once to give permission for the camera and phone to communicate (just like you do with AirPods or other Bluetooth devices). When you have your phone on you and you flick the power on your camera they detect each other and use bluetooth to configure a WiFi 6 network between your camera and your phone (you can skip this step if the camera has 4/5G eSim built in). Now when you start rolling off shots on your camera it just seamlessly transfers your RAWs in the background. When your done shooting you open up your phone and go to photos and there are all your photos ready to edit just as if you took them with your smart phone. Why hasn’t this happened? why are we taking a bloated phone OS and cramming it together like some cave man figuring out how to put square rock in round hole. It’s stupid.

Sensor readout speed is the big unknown that will impact 4k60p crop/binning and rolling shutter. My gut tells me that it will be similar to the 1D X III.

For the billionth time on here, I'm going to pimp the Toshiba FlashAir SD cards as the solution for the travelling/photo sharing situation. It can be wirelessly transferring images in the background to your mobile device while you carry on shooting and even FTPing them into the cloud using the phone's internet connection. It also supports scripts to do all manner of custom functions and means you aren't relying on going into the menu of the camera and doing the often masonic rituals of setting up transfers. Of course for cameras like the Sigma fp which doesn't have any wifi link, it also provides them with that functionality. If thats not enough, it also has probably the most bizarre advert you've ever seen for an SD card.

I believe Sony made some significant improvements in the RX100 v4 vs. the version iii that I had. I felt the IQ of my stills was far below that of my NEX-6 and even well below that of the Pixel 2, although of course the RX100 is more versatile than a smart phone (and I agree that the NEX-series cameras take much better photos than anything you can get from the best smartphones). For video, one thing I discovered is that I could mount the RX100 on top of a Blackmagic Video Assist monitor and record ProRes HQ footage (it outputs clean video via HDMI), which gave me a bit more latitude for color grading although I still didn't like the quality of video from the RX100.

Thanks @Andrew Reid and @Anaconda_ The Menu is extremely clean, and the screen appears Larger and more Square than regular LCDs. I guess the next level of ILC Video wars is beginning. It's almost feels like GH5 announcement 3.5 years back. I guess once the Sony 7Siii specs are announced, too, people may start feeling the full thrill. It's Video ILC love in the time of Corona.

Nice video. I would like YouTuber's more if they didn't all feel compelled to make that "wow" expression in the thumbnails 🙂

Looks really nice. Cool to see more people on this forum shooting 16mm. Have you tried Kodak Film Lab Atlanta? Their rates and turn around time are the best I have found. Exactly. I shot this on the Bolex Rex 4. If you get high quality scans and treat it right in post, it'll be close to what those bigger cameras can do. Bolex is kind of like the DSLR of the film cameras. I really love the internal NDs and simplicity of the camera. I think for solo type shooting, it is a really good option.

My 2018 Mac mini has the T2 chip. In the Handbrake compressor video encoder there are two Apple “VideoToolbox” modes, one H264 & one H265. These modes have accelerated encoding several times faster than the other modes, and I think these use the T2 chip for encoding. Unfortunately my "H.265 (VideoToolbox)" encoding test from 10bit input came out 8bit from Handbrake. Nevertheless Quicktime playback of 4k60p 10bit HEVC is always smooth on this machine.

The forum looks fine on my phone. 🤷🏻‍♂️

It's never been an issue for me, but I also don't use it in spontaneous ways. I always have it on and ready for when I need to record, not because it's slow to boot up (I never noticed that really) but just because that's how I've always been.

I use my dr60d mk2 with a powerbank tacked with scratch tape on its back. It works for hours running an ntg-2 (And you can easily replace the powerbank. )

Add up what I suggested, it still is cheaper than merely just what your camera body by itself cost! (let alone your entire camera kit) So in context, the price is very reasonably frugal and in proportion. (if anything... it's too cheap! And out of proportion in not being enough) Yup! Indeed, it's like that Although I say it is more accurately like someone asking "what sub $100 camera to get and you recommend a secondhand Panasonic G7 or even G6 with Chinese CCTV C Mount lenses". As I'm definitely not suggesting anything like a S1H!! And often there simply are no good sub $100 (or $200) cameras to recommend, thus if someone asks the best response is to tell them to up their budget or just keep on shooting with their cellphone, rather than wasting a hundred bucks on a disposable camera.

N-log gives you way more dynamic range and color information. You can only go to 60p to external recorder though. RAW seems to be worth it if you have an NLE that supports it. Honestly I would recommend it, if not for this project for future ones.

I think you're a consumerist idiot. Genuinely - if you don't want hyped prices... why cut and paste a YouTube hype piece about it all over Internet forums. And then say "NOOOOOOOO" What are you? a 12 years old? This shill likely trawls this forum for content ideas - This thread being one. Which is why you see his F3 hype piece and smirky expression. Where do you think he genuinely got the idea for buying an F3 from? Do you really think he has a single original idea of his own? Youtube - the gold standard for scientific research 😂 And his stuff is that boring too, I can't get past the first 15 seconds

If you don't want that prick talking about it and the price going up why have you plastered the video all over this forum?

A half decent M43 camera! A 50-100 FF f2 zoom

His note is not only about diopters, but the oval disks and anamorfakes. If you want more info on how to recreate the anamorphic look without anamorphic glass, I wrote an entire guide about it. www.anamorfakeit.com

To be honest what Dan Sasaki from Panavision says is much more valuable to me than what you wrote.You can read my private conversation i had with him. These are only DIY prototypes and there is no hacksaw involved, even a child would know that these would of course benefit from a new housing , but since I am not selling it or launching anything on the market I am not worried. But most of all please do not worry at all about my children, I am the father. How dare you!

@Cosimo I applaud your work.Thank you for sharing, and contributing. For me and many others, experimentation is the cornerstone of learning about anamorphic. Non-conctructive criticism of other people's work seems petty and antithetical to the anamorphic community. Ignore the haters, and keep doing what you are doing!

let off steam, remember to clean up when you're done.

Seems like your the one that's been cooped up too long,.... We do this because we can. There is no right or wrong, there is only the image aesthetic. If it doesn't please you go someplace else. Rapido sure do make some nice kit, i plan on getting the fvd16 fairly soon. Having said that i bet that rapido's first few efforts were not exactly exhilarating to look at either. On set it wouldn't surprise me what a DP' would do to get an image. So long as it doesn't fall apart and kill some poor sod who cares what it looks like. Your last comment is just mean and spiteful. Everyone has been cooped up for the last three months, cosimo is fortunate to have some kids that are happy enough to be involved.

Cinelux front glass/ Moller 32 rear glass 1.6X with Lomo block 75mm on FF sensor.

No offense, but this is pointless. I mean, maybe if you have too much time on quarantine it's an interesting hobby, but it looks like you simply ruined schneider cinelux lenses. Any cheap sankor lens can do much better than this, with nice waterfall background. Get yourself a good cinelux and it will be a proper lens with good image, that won oscar. I don't know what's a point in these, they look hacked together, not suitable even for lowest budget indie productions. I don't think any DP would put that on their camera. Maybe you should look at Rapido Technologies, they make good products like cases for anamorphics with engravings. etc. They still don't look very good, just a dull black pipe, but anything would look better than this. I think this would scare away any model or client when they see it in front of the camera. Maybe that explains why you only photograph kids and have no serious work to show with these.

Sorry, I did not mean to sound mean. But this is not how internet works, I am free to voice my opinion. I see a BS post and I call it out. OP pretentiously talks about "galilean action" and "horizontal artifacts", yet the images are highly uninspiring home shots with some of the ugliest flares I've seen. Then he proceeds to post lenses that look butchered. It seems he just took a hacksaw to some schneider cinelux lenses, then butchered some other lenses and randomly paired elements until he got a useable image. Using pseudo scientific terms to describe this process does not make it anything different. Just pure lens hacking. Pointless exercise, because no self-respecting DP will use something like this to shoot anything remotely important. Sure, if you want to learn by destroying lenses – go ahead. They don't make them anymore though. But what really worries me is that I see at least 4 different kids in these shots. I don't know how old OP is, and I don't want to assume their gender, but this is not normal.