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Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum Record as you wish. When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date. Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery) Put it back. Timer is gone! All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip. BOOOMMMMM https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

Well, well - actually I did test it with my R5. Firmware 1.1.0 - and guess what: it works like at charm. Let the camera overheat in the 120fps mode. Camera gets really warm. I guess I had something like 20 minutes in total (had to erase the clips from my card again and again). Anyway, after the camera overheated I opened the battery door, blocked the little latch to make the camera think it was closed. Went into the menue, forwarded the date by one full day. Confirmed. Took the battery out, waited some 15 seconds. Put the battery back in, closed the battery door. And here it was: Camera still warm after a short pause of 2 minutes (the time it took to go through the procedure) and what do I see in the display: Full recording time, no overheating sign. LOL. Canon, You've got a loophole there. Does the camera even bother to measure zhe temperature at all?! Say thank you to yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum. Chris

RF 15-35mm is quiet, fast, stabilized unicorn lens. All you really need for narrative film in most cases. RF 50mm 1.2 is possibly the best image I have ever seen from a lens, better than any cinema lenses I have used. But it’s also the full frame and autofocus that probably play a major factor in that. But it is regular USM so it’s about as noisy as the regular EF lenses. If you don’t need on camera sound, and watch distortion, I’d go with the Drop in Variable ND with way cheaper EF lenses. I think the EF 24mm 1.4 is stellar.

For the world's smallest full frame stills camera it has very good video capabilities. And for a full frame RAW shooting video camera it has very good stills capabilities. Its not the very best stills camera that I've got and its not the very best video camera that I've got but if you told me it was the only camera that I could have then I wouldn't cry myself to sleep about that by any means. If you accept the obvious like no EVF, no IBIS, less than stellar AF and look on it as being an interchangeable lens version of the original Sony RX1 but with a 4K full frame version of the original BMPCC available at a flick of the mode switch then a good time can be had by all. I've been using it with cheap compact M primes like this 7Artisans 35mm f2 in these shots to keep it small and it is another thing to bear in mind that it can get a bit unbalanced with the larger L mount lenses, though not the 45mm f2.8.

Ding ding. Upscale your vids for online platform viewing. Take advantage of whatever IQ edge you can squeak out of their systems.

In my opinion, this is one of the reasons to upload in 8K with YouTube. It doesn't really matter what display you're viewing it on, phone/laptop/1080p display/4K display, setting the quality to 8K gives you the maximum data rates that YouTube can offer. An 8K upload on a 4K HDR TV looks incredible. Even if your source is 4K, I would use a custom H.265 Media Encoder preset to get an 8K file for YouTube. Again, it's not about the resolution it's about the data rate and a 1080p file gives you roughly 29% of the data rates that an 8K file does. 4K gives you about half. So just by uploading an 8K file you get double the data rates for your view port.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5. The procedure is explained here. https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/ In short: - Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like) - Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down. - Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved. - Turn back on the power. - Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day) - Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery - wait 30 seconds - Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone. (if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn... Please share your findings.

I am confused now... source From this 2017 list here? source Or is the accurate one this other one here? source

I think it depends on what you're trying to achieve. A video showing test shots of brick walls, charts, high DR scenes, and scenes where a colour gradient is pushed in post to expose any banding would be very useful to a technical film-maker, but would be useless to the expressive film-maker who wants to see the aesthetic potential of the camera. Likewise, an emotional and dreamy creative piece where the composition is an interpretive dance between cast and crew can tell a creative everything they need to know about the texture and refinement of expression that the camera possesses in pure potential, and would tell the technical operator very little. The older I get the more I realise that people dramatically underestimate how different we all are to each other. Put more simply, what doesn't work for you might be useful for someone else.

That's what I thought as well. It doesn't directly talk about your setup, but there are a bunch of articles on Pugets website talking about what benefits you get from having multiple GPUs, like this one: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/DaVinci-Resolve-14-GPU-Scaling-Core-i9-vs-Xeon-W-vs-Dual-Xeon-SP-1121/ Of course, buying a second GPU also means buying Resolve, so it's more of an investment. I found with my system that the CPU was the bottleneck until I added an absolute ton of processing, so I had to upgrade to my new laptop. You can use the Activity Monitor application under Utilities to see the load on your system (go to Window and enable CPU History and GPU History then go do things in Resolve and see what got maxed out). I would definitely upgrade to Resolve Studio. IIRC the free version of resolve only lets you have a single node? If that's the case then having the ability to have more than one node let's you do a few killer things: Choose what order your effects get applied in by separating them into different nodes You can start to work with selective adjustments where you take a key and adjust only certain ranges of colour (eg, skin tones) or certain areas within the image (eg, track a moving window on someones face) Apply multiple OFX plugins Use Temporal Noise Reduction that compares multiple frames to do NR instead of blurring just one frame at a time

They work well (AF and IS), except they aren’t corrected for distortion in-camera and are noisy (USM). If you’re looking to use an on-camera mic, go with RF Nano USM lenses.

I'd like to welcome Kazuto Yamaki, CEO of Sigma and the product manager of the Sigma Fp and Cinema lenses, Takuma Wakamatsu to the pages of EOSHD for this long interview! I have recently been shooting with anamorphic with my Sigma Fp - the video you can see above is shot with the Rapido Technologies FVD-16A focus module housing a tiny Bolex Moller 8/19 anamorphic. I have more on this soon, as well as how ProRes RAW performs on the Sigma Fp attached to Atomos Ninja V. Ever since the Sigma embarked on the high quality ART lenses the company's factory has output higher and higher quality products, even industry leading lenses in fact. Now the Sigma Fp marks their entry into filmmaking cameras too with internal 4K RAW recording, external ProRes RAW and even BRAW - as well as being the smallest interchangeable lens full frame camera available on the market. Read the full interview: https://www.eoshd.com/news/the-eoshd-interview-kazuto-yamaki-ceo-of-sigma-and-takuma-wakamatsu-sigma-fp-product-manager/

Well, it was hardly the biggest mystery in the world but confirmation at least that the Meike lenses are the genuine successors to the Veydras and good to see the co-founder being involved and discussing how they have actually been improved rather than being the low quality rip offs that many were widely opining they were. The real mystery this video solves for me though is how you actually pronounce Meike.

An indie feature film shot in anamorphic using the Panasonic S5 :

38 minutes of 4K 120fps 🔥is Luckily I don't need that on a every day basis... 😁

Thanks. It's 75C, a new high record for the R5 🥵

I feel like a celebrity haha. Thanks guys. I'm glad that it's working on the R5. Honestly this makes the R6 the best camera in the world for me right now ,(besides the stupid clog1 limitation). Even if they do implement a clog3 update, I'm scared that the overheat hack will be patched in it.

Only 3rd party are not corrected , most Canon EF lens have correction done in camera

This is Pictogram. I took a foto with my R5 close to that moment: Not pretty - but it should have the precious temperature reading you're looking for 🙂 Next time I will take that picture once I see the symbol again. It comes in red and also in white. And it disapeared seconds after I took out the CFExpress card.

Second run, one minute after shutdown due to overheating. Runing for seven minutes now. No overheating sign. Camera very warm on the back. So obviously the camera doesn't check any kind of temperature inside the camera. If it did, it would have had to shut down by now.

I think the highest possible resolution on the phone is dependent on the phone itself. Mine can do 1440p, for instance. You don’t necessarily have to do 8K, it’s just the best data rate. 4K is double the 1080p data rate so simply upscaling your 1080p timeline at the end will make for a better looking 1080p (assuming people choose to view in 4K). The “Auto” setting is based solely on connection speeds. My desktop has a really bad WiFi adapter, when I’m using WiFi and watching an 8K video “auto” will go to 1080p. If I plug in via Ethernet that same video will automatically go to 8K. Keep in mind that it will also cap based on your device. I’m happy that most TV YouTube apps finally support 4K so those videos now look amazing on my 4K HDR home display.

Here's a Canomate script for automatically setting the camera's clock +1 day and then back: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230542#msg230542

Yes it does seem Canon are bothering to make it look like they measure actual temps!! Thanks for your discoveries. Maybe the Tilta fan cage will work after all?

This is primary tested by one user, he put all his camera details as reference. Please wait to get backed and test with the Firmware 1.1 also. 1) I really don't see why the card format should have any impact there as the camera is not recording during the shut down. This time, this is just the date/stmap that is modified and not read at this specific boot. 2) Yes, at each time your camera is displaying the overheat logo, you need to increment to the next day, hours, month, year. But if your camera, during lunch break is able to cool down by itself anyways, you can put back any date. The idea is to trick the timer only when overheating flag is on. The camera at boot look at (current time - overheat warning time). if it's more than the predefined "fake recover time" you are good to go.

Also also also... being able to apply multiple treatments to an image is really where professional colour grading begins. You'll see in every colourist / colour demo that they start with the image and then they'll show several wipes to show how they did something, then something else, then something else again, etc. That really needs multiple nodes to do as you need the full control of one or more nodes to properly do each correction.

Also also, having multiple nodes allows you to have parallel processing of the image, for example you can take a key of an object, split it and the rest of the image into two separate paths though the node graph, and for each one you can have it pass through multiple nodes, before they get combined again.

Also, I forgot that multiple nodes allows you to do things like layer adjustments and parallel nodes, which allow all the kind of effects that having layers in an image editor gives you.

I was going to buy a used Gx7 for $100 more than I got my waranteed/refurbished EM10iii. Its a good value for $300, yes.

If there's no bottleneck, I personally would save my money haha. I think that for normal editing, your 1080TI probably already outperforms your CPU so adding another would likely give no benefit.

ASUS PB278Q (2K)

Honestly just save up for new rig mate it would be better option Or get another ti and have it sli .

I don't think its that big a claim to day that Youtube is rubbish and that quality isn't all that great uploading 4K over 1080p. Aside from small videos, most of what I deliver is 1080p. But to say I'm making my life hard shooting 4K - nah. I'm loving it. I shoot nearly always 4K BRAW and the pleasure editing these files compared to H264 and even worse, those AVCHD files that for some reason struggled to playback in Premiere even though 4K H264 were okay. It use to be that after I graded the footage, I had to render to see any benefits and that was just a simple grade. Now I perform complex grades in Resolve that playback fine on BRAW, whilst stuttering with H264. Probably about 95% of my work I am doing things where 4K is an advantage. And should the Industry move closer to 8K, 4K will upscale better than 1080p. I doubt I will ever go back to shooting 1080p for any project. Most modern cameras now don't give much thought to 1080p anyway. I wonder how long it'll be before it is missing altogether from new cameras.

I will post something on Monday probably that gives a hint of it in operation. With regard to tracking, just to clarify that the first version does have AF-C so will keep lock as a subject approaches or moves away in the focus zone. Obviously I think you should buy all of them 😉 For manual focus lenses you will need a version with the motor interface module so you will have to sit tight for that one for a while longer. There will be a motor version option of this one following not too far behind.

Steinheil Cassar S 50mm f2.8. Running out of trees to photograph. 😞

More to come from this beast!

Yeah, definitely not a fan of the color grade. Who wants their kids to have gray skin tones?

Add words Meike and Bokeh to the same sentence and the pronunciation possibilities are endless