Leaderboard

No, No need to do anything It's very simple. Canon do a very simple calculation. When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo. If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag" At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time". This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there. There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time. Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC. It's a way of doing coding something very fast. They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working. But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately. So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory. When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM. So the flag is now remove and the camera can start. Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem. You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode. So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working. That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern. This is the final refinement on my hack. You have the right time for your recordings!

For the world's smallest full frame stills camera it has very good video capabilities. And for a full frame RAW shooting video camera it has very good stills capabilities. Its not the very best stills camera that I've got and its not the very best video camera that I've got but if you told me it was the only camera that I could have then I wouldn't cry myself to sleep about that by any means. If you accept the obvious like no EVF, no IBIS, less than stellar AF and look on it as being an interchangeable lens version of the original Sony RX1 but with a 4K full frame version of the original BMPCC available at a flick of the mode switch then a good time can be had by all. I've been using it with cheap compact M primes like this 7Artisans 35mm f2 in these shots to keep it small and it is another thing to bear in mind that it can get a bit unbalanced with the larger L mount lenses, though not the 45mm f2.8.

You are 75% wrong. For years we are talking about the E.U "tax", everything here is a lot more expensive and include tax/VAT, while the U.S prices, maybe they do, maybe do not. Most things are a lot more expensive in Europe, even European things, like Sennheiser mics, MKH50 par example, one of my favorite microphones ever, is around 1.200$ in U.S, and around 1550euros =1850$, and it is made in Germany. Canon cameras for years are a lot more expensive in Europe, for many posts I was saying how expensive the C200 was, while relatively modest priced in U.S, in my E.U country was thousands of $ more. You can order something from U.S, but you have to pay V.A.T/tax and customs. Maybe A7sIII is too new to send copies elsewhere, wait a month or so. Some things are closer to what you are saying, I am just not sure, that is why I give you the 25%!

Oh yeah Canon are all forgiven now! Not.

Go for it. It's your trick! We all owe you.

Any production that requires me to wear body armour would make me feel a bit anxious.

Kindly step outside sir, so we can discuss this...

Thanks for finally put my words in video. Do you mind if In put this one into my post? https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

That's not correct. The free version can do 99% the same as the studio version for most users, you're only missing out on resolutions bigger than UHD, it doesn't have the noise reduction and film grain OFX, etc. For normal editing and grading, it's widely the same. I don't think it makes sense to invest any money into your system if you haven't actually identified a bottleneck. I would edit/grade a project and run resource monitoring to find out if you every approach a limit regarding CPU, GPU or storage. There's no benefit to increase e.g. GPU performance up to 200% of now when you maybe never reach over 60% currently.

They 100% do.

Just catching up on what is probably already old news on this now. The firmware update "fixing" overheating is exactly the sham I was saying I was wary of. Get a few youtubers with a big neon "Overheating Fixed????" in their video thumbnail and there's just enough misinformation then to keep people buying the product. After those initial first wave of remorseful people who got the thing already, of course. Quick firmware updates that don't really change anything (Fuji XT4 IBIS anyone? IS Boost suddenly does worse than nothing? NOT fixed) and nobody's sure what to believe anymore. "Oh but I heard they fixed it?" Hope it gets hacked to bits like the GH2 and people who have bought it get a workhorse to grow into for the next 10 years instead of buying another canon body.

Looking good! I know this is just a little teaser but I'd love to see how this version tracks a person moving around the frame, toward and away from the camera. Focusing manually between two fixed points is easy and still produces a more organic focus pull but I can see this being more useful to track a person moving in frame or when on a moving gimbal. Do you have any geared manual only lenses to try this on?

I for one will never go back to shooting anything less than 4K and typically nothing lower than 4K60FPS. I already have over 120TB of storage, my projects drive is 4TB, my cache drive is 1TB, 14 core CPU, RTX 2080TI video card, USB3 media readers, 1TB SD cards, and I always generate optimized media for every clip to have smooth playback after color grading and Fusion effects are added. I rely heavily on recomposing shots, stabilizing in post, straightening the horizon (drone footage), and couldn't imagine losing all of those capabilities. I shoot 4K60FPS because I never know when I might need to slow something down later as part of a speed ramp or to get additional gimbal stability. Interviews of course are shot at 4K30FPS. I typically then deliver in 1080P although lately I have been editing on a 1080P timeline then upscaling to 1440P for a YouTube delivery. For my website's demo reels I need the highest quality so I have Vimeo Basic which is free but has a very low storage limit so I put about 4 or 5 videos there until I reached the storage limit so that customers see a higher quality video than YouTube would allow. I also tried hosting a few MP4s on my website but that's just too unreliable; maximum quality but it's a pain to write the code to detect the different viewports and deliver the proper format based on the user's devices. I get what you are saying about the additional overhead, but all of it is paid for by my clients. I charge for each project based on the number of hours it will take for me to shoot, edit, and deliver that project and my service proposals are based on processing, editing, and rendering 4K footage. Clients hire me based on my past work, they expect to get the same level of quality that they saw from other projects, the only way I can do that is by shooting in 4K or higher and delivering in 1080P or upscaled 2K. I have never shot a single frame of video in my GH5, C200, GoPro, or drones at 1080P. If you plan for 4K, build your workflow around 4K, and charge your clients for 4K it's really no different than 1080P. If you are not making a living from video work and just posting personal projects on YouTube then 4K might not make sense.

"Solved" or not, this is utterly ridiculous and no one should reward Canon with their business even if these cameras are your ideal tool. Please, reward honest and ethical companies with your business. It is the only way things will get better for all of us.

Dear Andrew. Thank you for this site, offering a platform for open and honest exchange. Thank you for your courage, intelligence, and sharing. People who are able to escape serfdom are rare, and most stay silent in a mix of fear and smugness. Most customers don't even care that they are sold mobile phones with built-in expiration (planned obsolescence, battery can't be replaced), making them pay thousands every few years to buy more or less the same over and over. Are you aware that Canon was fined millions for violating antitrust laws in the EU ... and in the USA ? Canon is one of the big corporations in a world currently ruled by unrestrained and unaccountable centralised power. They absolutely don't care about laws or customers. Andrew, people like you are rare. Just about four percent of the population guide their actions based on ethics and forgo own advantages in favour of the common good. Most are manipulated like zombies, through social media, media, authorities, schools and the opinions of their peers. Great that you attracted a few independent and generous thinkers here.

The digital world is a giant step in the history of the humankind and this story is the finest proof of it. It's a collective effort to prove we consumers together are stronger than corporations when there is a cooperative process as basis. Reason why we must invariably focus on a common goal rather than mere trivia. We can only risk to succeed when then. Ethics apply, of course, but remember they also vary accordingly the angle from. Hence we have to know very well where we are and what position we stand. - E.

I don't really understand what you are saying. Anyway, yes it's great that the community and individual users put in the hard work and came up with a workaround so you can feel better about giving $4000 to Canon now... a company that in my opinion lied to their customers, refused to apologise, refused even to acknowledge anything was wrong. They are not off the hook. An official fix and apology is the only path back for them in my eyes, and whatever little reputation their sales & marketing people have left in terms of honesty. In my opinion they knew they'd played fast and loose with consumer law as well - which in my opinion was what the latest firmware update was all about - ensuring that they couldn't be sued in a class action by not measuring temps in the first release of the camera. In my view, the second firmware adds the temps into the mix in a pretty superficial way just so they can claim it's actually about temperature and thermal protection! Disgusting behaviour! Let's never lose sight of that and stop demanding that they come clean.

I can see the GH6 big selling point being 8K. Whether we need it or not, the R5 has shown its very marketable. I prefer more internal RAW, ND Filters, punch in focus during recording, SSD recording via USB, AF at PDAF quality, recording 2.35 ratio and full Vlog. Give me that and its a winner for me.

Correct, if we are talking past tense then it's 100% as it was actually discussed in my first meeting with them. Whether they are still here is more uncertain, but I'm guessing they at least browse the threads that pertain to them.

Any production that allows me to wear earbuds would make me feel anxious.

Works too. I didn't do 100 clips, just 12.

With FW V1.1 I think the gap between how hot Canon lets the camera run and how hot the camera should run (to avoid IC longevity issues) has narrowed. Canon's original thermal management firmware implementation was quite clumsy and too coarse for lots of scenarios. They addressed some of those scenarios with better ambient temp sensor integration into the algorithm. There's still room for improvement, which hopefully Canon will do eventually. Until then I think the new workaround is a great stopgap, including for situations where you absolutely have to get the shot and don't care about an occasional short-term temperature spike.

It seems too simple to be true. But it is. There is a camera reset procedure now. Whenever your R5, R6 is overheated, just go quickly through your date change, battery drop procedure. And your camera is back on and fully operational for all video modes. No matter what card you use. Only if your camera surpasses 65 or maybe 70°C, that's when the real overheating warning kicks in. The other question of course still remains - how much can or will the camera endure in long term? But as long as you use this neat trick only to get rid of the ridicously long cool down periods I'd say it's fine.

Mr. Neumann has done work for Panasonic in the past promoting The GH5 and GH5S so His 100% statement is 99.99% correct. 😎 We must account for some degree of uncertainty because it is always present.

You again 🙂 Always appreciate your videos Matt. By the way - tried to make the R5 overheat at 4K 25fps HQ (at 19°C room temperature). Took me 59 minutes to get it to show the overheat warning (which appeared in the photo mode about 10 minutes earlier). Recording on CFExpress. So obviously we will need this neat trick only to shorten the cool down wait period or the "overheating due to obsessive menu use" 🙂 BTW: Still no shutdown after 1 hour eight minutes of 4K 25P HQ. But the GoPro gave up. Overheated!

This. I have ‘agonized’ over what I should get as a personal camera and the Leica Q2 would be my first choice other than price. The Sony RX1 series was a contender as was the Fuji X100V and also the latest Ricoh, but ultimately I am after something a bit more versatile than a ‘street photography camera’ and the fact that the Sigma can earn it’s keep at weddings for static video, seals the deal. Otherwise yes, the 45mm f2.8 is the only lens I am considering for photography, partly for the purity of the ‘fixed lens’ approach and partly to retain the smallest footprint. The only option I would get is the smallest grip. All my personal work/needs are ‘considered’ ie, no need for blazing fast AF and the only other contender I have been considering is getting a (used obviously) original X100. The latter would not fill the dual purpose video role however which would mean keeping the camcorder, plus I have already been there and done that 3x with that original Fuji already so something new and different would be fun. Great pics @BTM_Pix

I have bolded the most significant word in your post... "almost" 😂😂😂 I suspect that YouTube might make some kind of allowance for making 1080p videos better in 1080 than 4K videos are, as there's kind of a relationship between upload resolution and who watches stuff. People that have channels with nothing to do with aesthetics aren't likely to chase the highest resolutions. There will be exceptions of course, but as a general principle I think it holds up. I expect that @fuzzynormal probably does see a difference. I can see a difference, and once I learned where to look and what to look for, I think I could probably see that difference even if there weren't comparable shots. Perhaps the most interesting thing about this thread is that there wasn't consensus about if it was visible, or for those who had a preference, which one was even best. I think it's one of those things where being right doesn't necessarily align you with popular opinion, and it may not actually give you any kind of advantage in the end anyway. By the time we factor in all the overheads, which may be hidden for many people at this point but are real nonetheless, I think that for many 4K isn't worth it. That's easy.. we'll all need to go on a prolonged campaign to blow up my channel and get it to a million subs, then I promise I'll do the test 🙂

Well, that bottom frame alone is enough to make me want this setup. It's been on the wish list for a while, and has been bumped up a notch, that's for sure.

100% is a very strong number, another very definite percentage is 0%!

I agree that a 4K upload watched at 4K is WAY better than a 1080p upload watched at 1080p. Absolutely. The challenge with uploading 6K and 8K is that people won't watch at 6K or 8K, they'll watch at 4K or 1080p. It's kind of like me saying that you're going to love my new video because I shot it in 25K, and you have to watch it in 25K or you'll miss out. Not going to happen. At some point you have to optimise your viewing experience for the people watching, rather than the best possible experience if a viewer sells their car to setup a system. For many that's people watching in 4K, for most it's people watching in 1080p, or even 720p.

Hey Andrew. Just to give a small correction. The original test was performed on my R6. Not the R5. But I've seen in comments that it's working on the R5 too

I feel like a celebrity haha. Thanks guys. I'm glad that it's working on the R5. Honestly this makes the R6 the best camera in the world for me right now ,(besides the stupid clog1 limitation). Even if they do implement a clog3 update, I'm scared that the overheat hack will be patched in it.

But this is interesting: There is another overheat symbol appearing after 15 minutes into my seconf 120fps run: one without the camera, a thermomter only. After stopping and taking out the card (leaving in the SD card) the symbol turns white. It disapears after taking out the (very hot) CFExpress card. So it seems to be an overheat warning for the CFExpress card.

I think the highest possible resolution on the phone is dependent on the phone itself. Mine can do 1440p, for instance. You don’t necessarily have to do 8K, it’s just the best data rate. 4K is double the 1080p data rate so simply upscaling your 1080p timeline at the end will make for a better looking 1080p (assuming people choose to view in 4K). The “Auto” setting is based solely on connection speeds. My desktop has a really bad WiFi adapter, when I’m using WiFi and watching an 8K video “auto” will go to 1080p. If I plug in via Ethernet that same video will automatically go to 8K. Keep in mind that it will also cap based on your device. I’m happy that most TV YouTube apps finally support 4K so those videos now look amazing on my 4K HDR home display.

In my opinion, this is one of the reasons to upload in 8K with YouTube. It doesn't really matter what display you're viewing it on, phone/laptop/1080p display/4K display, setting the quality to 8K gives you the maximum data rates that YouTube can offer. An 8K upload on a 4K HDR TV looks incredible. Even if your source is 4K, I would use a custom H.265 Media Encoder preset to get an 8K file for YouTube. Again, it's not about the resolution it's about the data rate and a 1080p file gives you roughly 29% of the data rates that an 8K file does. 4K gives you about half. So just by uploading an 8K file you get double the data rates for your view port.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5. The procedure is explained here. https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/ In short: - Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like) - Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down. - Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved. - Turn back on the power. - Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day) - Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery - wait 30 seconds - Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone. (if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn... Please share your findings.

Great test of (almost) all the Meike MFT lenses:

Make Tripods Great Again!

You never heard it from me..... 😳😁😁

So what you're saying is clearly the GH6 is going to be a 12K camera? 😉

I do use my 28-90mm lens a fair bit on my F3, used it last time I shot with the F3 a week ago. But of course depends on what you want to be shooting with it.

Steinheil Cassar S 50mm f2.8. Running out of trees to photograph. 😞

Man, I've been shooting full frame glass on crop sensor bodies since the 30D (up through the 70D and 80D). Now, between my Metabones and Vizelex nd throttle I can either get that full frame FoV with increased aperture or boost my focal length with VND behind the glass. If the X-H2, when it finally comes out, is closer to a cine Super 35 cine camera than a full frame hybrid, I personally will be in heaven and snatch one right up.

Yet another bargain - Sony FS5 Mki for GBP1100! So off to the beach I go. Unfortunately I went with the wrong lens still attached, so some of these shots are a bit soft. This was on SLog2 with SGamut. Now working on some stuff in SLog3 with Sgamut3.cine, which I'm advised should give better results. Thoughts on the camera I really like the size and the ergonomics. WB setting is a little cranky and I wish I could map push AF to one of the handgrip buttons, but overall I'm really enjoying it - especially the 10bit HD 4:2:2 and the S&Q modes. I haven't even tried the 4K yet. Obviously the AF is the definition of shonky compared to the C100 mki with DPAF that I sold to buy this.

The drone and gopro groups have lots of photos of broken micro SD cards - as in snapped in half. I use them because I have to in my drone and gopro, but anywhere else I'd personally avoid it. Again, just me, but no way. Plus they're so small and you can't lock them to prevent accidentally recording over footage you want to save, its not a very robust solution. Chris

I have lately been experimenting with video capture settings on the NX1 and I have been exploring a method of increasing dynamic range which I don't think has yet been touched upon. It's really no big deal and I am not making any great claims but it may be of interest to some so I produced a quick video How-To. Take is as fun, I have done very little real-world testing and it may be of little use, but over to you.

Hello, does any one have special settings for the nx1 like (lowlight, highdinamic range, low noice) it would help me very much. Should you over expose the footage of the nx1 or under? Thanks in advanced felix