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At 8:50 of this video posted today the GH5 successor is specifically mentioned to be in development.

I can't compare it directly to the P4K as I don't regularly shoot with one. But it compares quite well with the P6K and the Alexa. As I said elsewhere the P6K has 1.3 stops more range in the highlights at IOS800 when highlight recovery is enabled. But the Komodo has nicer finer grained noise with no CMOS smear. I'm getting pretty much the same image from both. The P6K requires a Rawlite OLPF filter though. Usability wise the P6K is maybe a bit nicer. So much quicker to shoot with assignable buttons, 2 sec startup time.

There's a new kid on the block... just launched to follow Samsung's 980 Pro announcement and actually is the fastest drive of its class to come and be available very soon (price TBA): http://reviewcentralme.com/2020/09/01/sabrent-unleashes-rocket-4-plus-the-worlds-fastest-pcie-4-0-nvme-ssd/ I guess heatsink is somehow removable so can be adapted to the Zitay adapter, even though overheating handling is everything a Canon user can ask for these days...

The fundamental challenge you have is the one that we all have - there's no perfect camera. The second, very unfortunate, challenge you have is that the 'simple' task of having a small, light-weight camera that can keep up with your kid and how you live your life. What this translates to, and why I put 'simple' in quotes, is that you want a camera that can: be small and pocketable, likely implying a smaller sensor have autofocus that can keep up with a small child (otherwise known as 'world-class' - watch some AF tests if you're unsure of this) can do that AF in the lighting that you find yourself in, which after the sun goes down, will be extreme low light has the kind of IQ that you deem acceptable Basically, the above is a very difficult set of requirements, unlikely to be met by anything, so you'll have to choose which things you are willing to compromise on. Parents getting a camera for pics of their kids running around think it seems like a reasonable request, but in reality it's kind of like saying you want continuous eye-AF at f1.4 in pitch-black. Cameras are getting way better than they used to be, but we're not there yet.

@ZEEK where are you man? Your level of expertise is required over here :- )

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘 As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities. My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰) I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please. I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved. Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far; made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit. My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight. I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢 And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work. The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever. That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.

Got my hands on Red Komodo to test for a few days. I'm impressed. A few more images can be seen here: https://imgur.com/a/HAWFShe

In my opinion, Panasonic makes the best cameras with the best IQ (especially video IQ) in the business. They are reliable, packed full of features, ergonomically nearly perfect, and just fantastic to use. The S1 and S1H (and seemingly the S5) are the most useful mirrorless tools and the S1H in particular is a brilliant video camera. But Panasonic needs to go all-out with L-Mount NOW, because Canon and Sony are going gangbusters with camera releases. With the C70 RF and Sony FX6 coming out soon, Panasonic needs to release an EVA-2 ASAP and load it with features to solidify the L-Mount. The EVA-2 has to be an FS7-type release, where they give out features that no other manufacturer has at that price point. Main competition will obviously be the C300 III, FX9, FX6, and C70. Here is what I think they need to do: - Release EVA-2 with L-Mount - FULL FRAME - has to be. - 120-180fps in 4k (C300 III and C70 does this, but has a Super35 sensor) - IBIS - first ever in a cinema camera and make it LOCKABLE (I know cinema cameras "NEVER!" have IBIS, but I think the market would love it). - Dual ISO (640 and 4000) - 12-bit codec - Codecs in EVA-2 and S1H and 5.9k ProRes Raw output are great - internal raw would be excellent but maybe not possible. An internal 12-bit codec would be awesome though. - PDAF - I don't care as much about AF, but the market demands it. At least the S5 AF in the EVA-2. - Compact Body - Make it smaller, more like the FS5 sized than EVA-1 - $7499 - Same price as EVA-1 and WAY below any full-frame cinema camera with these specs. Could even go closer to the FX9 ($10k even) with these specs. If they put out a pretty standard Super35 camera with 4k 60fps and raw out (basically an EVA-1 with L-Mount), they're not going to gain much traction. They need a GH5-level release (2-3 years ahead of the competition on specs) but in full-frame. The FS7 changed the trajectory for Sony and wasn't matched on specs and price until the EVA-1, nearly 3-4 years later. They need THAT type of camera now.

http://achtel.com/9x7/ 9x7 Camera features state-of-the-art back-side illuminated (BSI), APS-H sized sensor with true global shutter and capable of high frame rates (HFR) up to 70 fps at full resolution. 9.3K x 7K 4:3 ratio @70fps, not bad, humm? : X Perfect IMAX 3D capture device? ;- ) *cough cough* : D

Is this just fantasy? Lockdown in pandemic No escape from reality...

@kye yes, for sure! I totally appreciate that asking for 'just' solid AF in low-light is a huge ask, in reality. Maybe the best, most cost-effective option is to stick with the Coolpix A and introduce sedatives into my kid's diet! 😅 I'll see if I can find anywhere with a good returns policy to try them out. The X100F is totally the one I love in terms of stills IQ, how I expect it to handle, and the look of the thing. Been trying to convince myself it's the one, but looking at the dimensions, it's likely juuuuust too big for what I'd really like. Damn, when will manufacturer's wake up to my needs and make a credit card sized full-frame fixed lens f1.8 camera with lightning fast AF?!? 😤

@Trek of Joy @kye - thanks guys. You both make good points about whether or not the smaller, pocketable gear is 'good enough'. It was actually @Mattias Burling's videos on youtube that turned me on to the idea of tiny cameras. One of his vids compelled me to pick up a Nikon Coolpix A. The size is great, really small, despite it having an APS-C sensor. I'd be happy with it, but the autofocus and video are really bad. (The high ISO isn't the best either, but given the cost and age of the thing, that's nit-picking) After coming back from a family holiday, the pictures selected to share were determined by the (relatively few) ones in focus. Regarding focal length, really anything around the 28-35mm range if a prime / fixed lens camera is the way to go. 'Thankfully' it's pretty cold were I live 😉 - so I'll be wearing a jacket with decent-sized pockets for the next few months!

Well actually, my list would be: 1: Leica Q2 2: Leica QP 3: Fuji X100V But none are really that 'compact'. A compact for me would need to fit in my pocket and that's exactly what the Sony RX100V I had did. I used it for B roll at weddings and it was good for that, just not great above 800 iso. My last 'personal' camera was the Fuji X100f but that was dual purpose as I also used it as a 35mm lens at weddings, but for the last 2 years my personal camera has been my iphone. That is now changing and my new personal camera (again dual purpose as I will be using it at weddings for both stills & video) will be the Sigma FP with 45mm f2.8 lens and that is relatively 'compact', but only pocketable for jackets.

I've gone back and forth on a RX100 or a X100 for something more compact and I always wind up just carrying my a7's with a single lens - usually a 24mm or 35mm, but sometimes a small zoom. I had one of the x100's and the a7III with a small prime was much better so I got rid of it. If you have the XT3, maybe something like the tiny xa7 with a pancake? Though I don't carry anything including my phone in my pocket since its too warm where I live to wear a jacket most of the year, and I don't find "pocketable" cameras comfortable to carry in pants/shorts pockets. So I always have at least a small sling or shoulder bag or I just walk around with the camera around my neck. I've tinkered with the RX100's dozens of times over the years in Best Buy but can't seem to actually get one because of the IQ compromises and the fact for me - they won't live in a pocket. But that's just me. Chris

See if you can borrow one (or buy it with a return option) and do a bit of a stress test. I say this because I have a friend who is into stills and has an old DSLR that he hates lugging around, but he's repeatedly tried going on trips with only the latest iPhone and has kept going back to the DSLR. His reason.... none of the iPhone photos are good enough for him to print and put on the wall. The moral of the story is that the best of the convenient options may still not be good enough, and you might be better off trading some of the convenience in order to get something that will work for you. In the end we only remember the footage, not the camera gear, so as long as the equipment is as minimal as it can be for the required results, and as long as it's minimal enough that you actually take it and use it, then that's the way to go. You haven't talked about what focal lengths you're interested in using, and how you actually shoot. A MILC and pancake prime isn't a bad option and I've done that as a (barely) pocketable option in the past to great results.

Hey, thanks for chiming in @noone @Snowfun @MrSMW - unanimous votes for the RX100 V so far! And great to it's low-light isn't so bad against the other APS-C ones. I'd miss those top dials, for sure, but if the Fujifilm AF can't keep up on these older cameras, they'd be no good to me!

Yeah, the problem with equivalence tests is finding or having the equivalent lenses to not prejudice the FF camera. Having to have the FF at f4 because the APS-C had to be at f2.8 and the MFT with the SB could be f2 is not doing the FF any favours. Matching the focal lengths also make it a challenge without using a zoom as well of course as at least they maintain the same contrast and colour for each camera. I'm trying to think about which set of cameras and primes that could be used for be a totally accurate test if someone wanted to do it properly and its a tricky ask to get exact matches.

I think it is, yes, they already sell that Aluminum Heat Sink without the SSD as accessory: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2280-Rocket-Heatsink-SB-HTSK/dp/B07TN2RX2K

Ah I just saw this on youtube, I came over here to post it, but you already did it. It really looks great! Might get one in a couple of years.

Neither does Matteo’s!

Very impressive. Almost didn't watch it as the thumbnail doesn't do it any kind of justice whatsoever!

@ZEEK occasionally posts in this forum!

Gamers and Samsung are promoting the new SSD: https://insights.samsung.com/2020/09/11/ditch-the-glitch-samsungs-980-pro-is-a-pc-gamers-delight/ Can't wait. Funny, it seems there's some misunderstanding going on here. Not everyone are getting understanding about your support.

Look really nice! How does it do compare to the P4K and Arri?

Interesting that BM fanboys got triggered after I post this on the Panasonic S1 group, something to do with guy not setting up BM camera correctly or something. Fanboys 🤨

Really nice and deep colors. Impressive looking greens.

Dang, now Eoshd is talking again. Beautiful nerdy threads. Keep em coming! I want some underdog beauty: GH4 or FZ2000 with external 10bit. GH4 with a YAWG and battery solution. Software mods, hardware mods, shitty rigs, super rigs- keep em coming, the happy bee is humming! EOS M super 8 raw thread was one of my favorites of the last two years. Would love people to shoot some recreational short pieces with these nerds´dream cams. Unfortunately I have not done the walk yet to be called a nerd. Maybe if I get to mod my Konica mount zoom lens to EF. Edit: that zeek youtube link above seems like a nerds entertainment dream. Thank you very much @stephen

For EOS M RAW video tutorials - visit Zeek's channel on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ZeekEOSZ/videos It has piratically everything including how to set latest versions, etc.

I couldn't take a proper reading yet on your post... Sunday afternoon, daylight, family journey, you know ; ) Just here to let you know I am sincerely grateful to your contribution to our craft. I don't have a R5 either for my cats and flowers but from your input, I am buying a body unit to couple extra glass, so how couldn't I express my thanks? Accept my gratitude please, oh boy, how couldn't I listen you? Isn't a forum like this one the ideal place to promote a discussion? Hard to find tiptop modders (don't call it hack) of such category to help us to break the rules of the business. Accept my hat tip or you won't help my sleep tonight with your smileys : P I just want to have you here actively posting so mission accomplished < 3 Do not shoot before to ask, that serves for both geeks and filmmakers. On my entries, if you'll do your search, you'll be able to find some of them in several streaming platforms if you had no luck to have a TV network to schedule it nearby you. You know the world is too big (belly button is poor as compass). Film festival circuit is a bit restricted in their selection as much as their filmmaker invitees and so on. Let alone attendees, looks like people spend more time browsing today and other minor activity than much more productive stuff indeed. I concur, fine art nobody wants to see is a common place for morons, who else? LOL : X Let's focus on your highest ranking tips and add-ons (c'mon man, you've saved my Canon glass collection!), much appreciated for those you've teased up with your findings. I'm eager to see more from you instead. No worries, dude, all my (reciprocal) love to share with you. PS: I solemnly declare from now on to do my committed research on your personal blog and alike, next time I will dare to claim your presence to comment another absurd opinion of some other anonymous poster here or from somewhere else! Promise made (E :- )

Yes Resolve is incredible, but it can be pretty hard to find some of its features. I think the key to my color grading workflow is I don't add the adjustment layer until I have a base grade for all of the clips, that way I don't accidentally end up with it selected. It's pretty annoying that DR does not provide an easier way to do this, and I accidentally start working on the wrong layer all the time if I have already added say a logo or watermark at a higher layer. I now try to color grade before adding text/titles/callouts etc. but if a client wants changes after seeing the project that's where things get time consuming. I learned the memories trick from the following video, and out of all the different ways to copy a grade to another clip I liked it the Memories trick the best, if the clips are side by side I just hit the = key but it usually doesn't work out that way. For speed purposes I just put everything into one node unless I'm doing something complex like power windows, selective color, green screen work, etc. I used to do multiple nodes and all of that but it takes too much time; create a base grade, throw a finishing LUT into an adjustment layer....done. I literally did not leave Premier Pro until DR added the adjustment layer feature. It is a huge time saver.

Thanks for the reminder of that thread. That thread alone is reason enough to not proceed any further since people would argue with the bloke who designed the Metabones speedbooster as well as one of the best lenses ever (Coastal Optics 60mm f4),there is zero point in a non entity like me trying any further..

IF I spent ages and ages, setting it up and trying for an exact match, the photos WOULD look extremely close (24 at f4.8 vs 8.8 at 1.8) even with this apples to fish comparison. Again though why on Earth would I want to? Given I used a more than thirty year old prime against a much more modern fixed lens zoom on a tiny 1 inch sensor camera and to me, the photos are pretty similar (with errors down to me), I think I proved my point. I could have also used my Sony Zeiss 55 1.8 (at f8 VS 2.8 also a Sony Zeiss lens) and it would be a closer match. Lastly, if you compared different M43 lenses against each other at the same focal length and/or different M43 cameras the look would not be the EXACT same as no two of ANYTHING will be exactly the same.

FWIW, I did a very quick basic comparison between MFT, APS-C and FF at a couple of focal lengths a few years ago on here and the differences in those specific limited instances with zoom lenses to create the correct equivalent focal lengths were marginal. A more thorough test at different distances using primes would possibly yield more telling differences but I got bored. Close enough for jazz as we would say.

You are taking sentence out of the context. Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure. But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity. The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy. If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD) The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera) It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat. And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost. CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day. This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting. I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

Who could imagine we gonna have point and shoot camera with full frame sensor in 2020?

Btw u can downgrade firmware

Great stuff from Matteo Bertoli:

If it can't move, it can't break (in warranty)?

Indeed, this is really impressive: Here's another comparison as food for thought:

No, No need to do anything It's very simple. Canon do a very simple calculation. When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo. If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag" At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time". This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there. There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time. Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC. It's a way of doing coding something very fast. They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working. But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately. So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory. When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM. So the flag is now remove and the camera can start. Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem. You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode. So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working. That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

So this is my final result with the R5 running on 1.1.0: After 1 1/2 hours I gave up. Couldn't make the camera overheat at 19°C room temperature in the 4K HQ mode. Camera started at 21°C. After 1 hour 30 minutes EXIF reports 61°C and didn't go above it. While it said in photo mode that I had 0:00 minutes left, it showed 1:00 in video mode but recorded nonstop 7 minutes before I stopped, deleted the clip and started right again with another 1:00 minutes left. Didn't even need to fool the camera. But now I was interested in the real recovery time. After 10 minutes (indicating 3:00 shooting time left) the camera went back to 41°C (all doors open, camera switched off) After 20 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera ist at 33°C After 30 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera is down to 29°C Weird detail: Toggling between photo and video mode: video mode always shows more recording time than the photo mode. f.e. 10 vs 20 minutes.

Thanks for finally put my words in video. Do you mind if In put this one into my post? https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern. This is the final refinement on my hack. You have the right time for your recordings!

Well, well - actually I did test it with my R5. Firmware 1.1.0 - and guess what: it works like at charm. Let the camera overheat in the 120fps mode. Camera gets really warm. I guess I had something like 20 minutes in total (had to erase the clips from my card again and again). Anyway, after the camera overheated I opened the battery door, blocked the little latch to make the camera think it was closed. Went into the menue, forwarded the date by one full day. Confirmed. Took the battery out, waited some 15 seconds. Put the battery back in, closed the battery door. And here it was: Camera still warm after a short pause of 2 minutes (the time it took to go through the procedure) and what do I see in the display: Full recording time, no overheating sign. LOL. Canon, You've got a loophole there. Does the camera even bother to measure zhe temperature at all?! Say thank you to yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum. Chris

Awesome job! I agree with your follow-up comments on the ML forum - based on your workaround working the camera is storing a future-based RTC timestamp for the available recording/cooldown (current time + interval) rather than a relative time or a simple flag. I'm guessing this wont work in V1.1 firmware since Canon changed the logic to sample the temp more frequently during the active session, which would give preference to the actual temp sampled rather than the previous session's timer setup. However it's still worth a shot because maybe Canon was a bit clumsy with the change.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5. The procedure is explained here. https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/ In short: - Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like) - Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down. - Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved. - Turn back on the power. - Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day) - Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery - wait 30 seconds - Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone. (if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn... Please share your findings.

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum Record as you wish. When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date. Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery) Put it back. Timer is gone! All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip. BOOOMMMMM https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

Media Division released another video, I bet many of you already watched it. This time they are examining the Canon FDs and their similarity to the legendary Canon K35s. It's one hour and 24 minutes long, and holds the same quality as their video on the C/Y Carl Zeiss video. By the way, there's a segment on removing yellow tint on thorium coated lenses with a cheap Ikea lamp @ 1h15m. I thought you might be interested @mercer

An excellent look at the Voigtlander 60mm. Some day I would like to collect them all!

Pocket 64 vs Alexa Mini