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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/2021 in all areas

  1. I've been watching some resolution insights by cinematographer Steve Yeldin that I think many might find very interesting. Not sure if this has already been posted... It would be interesting to discuss.
    2 points
  2. The variable ND E to EF adapter does not support continuous auto focus in video. There is no camera that has built in ND's and IBIS. The A7S3 comes closest to checking all your boxes. The only thing it lacks is ND's. with an MC-11 adapter you can use your EF lenses with good AF performance though not as good as if you were to use Sony lenses. I am not big on Sony color but slap on Emotive color's Alexa conversions and you'll be good. The Pocket 6k pro is a good option if you can go without AF. OIS is a good replacement for IBIS honestly.
    1 point
  3. HDMI 1.4 onwards has a bi-directional data link so the settings can be read by the EVF from that without appearing in the "visible" video signal. Unless I missed it, they probably could have done with confirming that the EVF is compatible with the original (it is btw) instead of switching to that weird stop animation mode video! I think they should've called the "Powder Blue" colour mode "Scandi-Noir Mode" or gone the whole hog and called it "Saga Noren Mode".
    1 point
  4. Worth pointing out that f8 or at most f11 is as high as you should go, otherwise you start running into diffraction softening on that small sensor. I lost a lot of footage when I was first starting out with the original BMPCC because I shot it at f16 and didn't realize the image would be affected so badly by diffraction; I've seen it at f11 as well but not as badly. ND filters are essential to ensure you don't have to stop down too much. There's a good tutorial on diffraction and sensor size at https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
    1 point
  5. Having had and used both the Mki and Mkii C100, the latter is definitely a huge improvement in terms of usage. The DPAF is excellent and the EVF is actually usable! The only unfortunate hangover from the Mki is the codec. If you're planning to mainly use SOOC footage with minimal grading then yes, for the use case you've described it's almost a no-brainer. However, if you plan to grade to any extent you'll find the low bitrate 8bit files frustratingly thin.
    1 point
  6. I’m not going to recommend you any specific brand or model of camera but say only this, - I think we have already reached ‘peak camera’ from an image point of view. Yes, above 4k, we can go 6k and now 8k. Yes, we are getting ever higher mega-pixel counts. Unless it’s Sony where you can have high or ‘low’. Yes, we are getting ever better lower light capability, dual ISO etc, (but you can always pop on a faster lens). But for me anyway, there’s a ton of kit out there that does 99.9% of anyone’s needs. I recently bought a new camera. It is a current model and though there are even more recent, smaller, faster, better AF models out there, I primarily made my decision based on 2 factors. A: Is it enough for my needs? Answer = more than enough. I could have gone back a generation...possibly even two (though not with this brand/model) which leads me to... B: Is it ‘future proof’, ie, does it only have a limited lifespan before it’s superceded with an updated even ‘better’ model? The answer to the latter is pretty much yes as in I think it will be a very long time before it would need replacing other than technology changes in such a way it becomes like say a film camera today compared with a digital. Or it breaks/wears out. In a nutshell, what I am trying to say is find a set up that meets as many of your needs as possible (because there is always some form of compromise!) and then use use use it and ignore the noise. ‘The Noise’ being GAS. That’s my take on it anyway and the bottom line has to be what you produce from it and continue to produce from it, not what anyone else thinks or says. Or tries to sell you. The (other) bottom line is I could have gone a step or two backwards with kit but decided to draw my line in the sand at approx 12 month ago kit and work with that for at least the next 3 years and 9 months.
    1 point
  7. Do you think you'll be staying with your employment as a content creator for the foreseeable future, or instead soon going 100% freelancer? If the later, then spend the extra for an FX6 Otherwise, with your EF lenses, perhaps get a Blackmagic 6K Pro for cheap? If it is just going to be for your personal / side projects.
    1 point
  8. I used to own a C100 Mk 1 and shot a bit with C300. Love them both! C100 ergonomics are better imo but codec is weak and EVF is terrible. Haven't used Mk2. But it should improve on low light, EVF, and codec.... Only thing I'd add is it's nearing the end of its lifecycle and price might go down. Or up. Used C100 Mk1 with DPAF sell for more than the $1299 they were EOL'd at IIRC. I think it is a winner.
    1 point
  9. Just got an email from Panasonic that they're live-streaming about the upcoming firmware updates tomorrow (the 25th) at 2 p.m. EDT on their LUMIX Cameras YT channel, host Sean Robinson, guest Matt Frazer, here's the link... LUMIX Live : The S Series Firmware - YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWwMrA3ILbg ...my question will be, "Ninja V only? No love for the Atomos Shogun 7 or Sumo 19 or Neons with ProRes RAW from the S1, etc.?" (I've been chasing down rabbit holes for several days now with Atomos, Panasonic and Apple for an answer on this! I'm hard-pressed to believe that ProRes is so finicky that it will only work with specific combinations of cameras and recorders?! Oofah!)
    1 point
  10. C100 mk2 is a great camera. Really good high ISO performance, nice downsampled HD, and very nice Canon color. Plus you get internal ND's and XLR inputs which are quite amazing to have. Also it has great battery life. It makes sense as you won't be able to utilize Sony's amazing auto focus as well using EF lenses. Honestly for me the two most important features on a camera are lowlight performance and color science and XLR inputs. I think you'll be making a great choice.
    1 point
  11. You're probably a bit more experienced with this sort of thing. The sensor on the pocket is tiny, so at F5.6 or F8, you should have no problem zone focusing and getting really good results. If you want to shoot at F2 while walking backwards and maintaining focus, there are certainly better gimbals and cameras. I am more speaking to the fact that the gimbal is tiny, weighs next to nothing, takes me 1 minute to balance, and the batteries last forever. The Ronin is twice the size and more than twice the price.
    1 point
  12. I own both a G9 and an EM1 II and honestly I'm not convinced that (overall) the Oly autofocus is much better than the G9 - and IMHO the G9 is a much better overall video camera than the EM1 II. The G9 1080p leaves the Oly 1080p in the (soft) dust, then add 4k50/60p and 10-bit video modes which the Oly hasn't got at all... On the other side, the Oly is nice to use, has great IBIS and battery life, and is smaller and lighter than the G9.
    1 point
  13. My suggestion would be to never buy anything new- you won't lose as much. Just be patient and wait for a good deal to come up. In the end, you'll find you'll lose little to no money on the "investment". Be the guy who gets the awsome deal, not the guy who loses all that money. Just an idea.
    1 point
  14. The truth... For the under $700 camera price range, only the Blackmagic Cinema Camera 2.5k and the Micro Studio Camera look like the Pocket Cinema Camera. Making your Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera work the way you want it to... If you keep your BMPCC, add an AFX audio focus system ($415) when for sale again and Tilta Nucleus Nano motor ($150). If you are in the market for a top of the line gimbal, fly your BMPCC on a Ronin RS2 Pro Combo ($999) and add the DJI 3D auto focus system ($169). For your price range and feature requirements (mostly)... You can also look at the Panasonic G9, which goes as low as $700 used on ebay, though they are more likely to be $800. This will get you a 10 bit depth and 4:2:2 color rendering, but you will not have the highlight roll off, dynamic range or color density of the Blackmagic Fairchild sensor.
    1 point
  15. Yet my EM10iii I got new/refurbished last May for $299 is close to $400 used now in 2021. The market is goofy.
    1 point
  16. Why must we always respond in extremes? The camera is the least of my concerns, it's the SYSTEM that I take into consideration more than anything. A camera is like a car, it immediately loses value the second you buy it. That's something you have to accept. If you don't view your cameras, lenses, audio gear, etc. as investments that's OK, but I do because they play a vital role in how I make the bulk of my living. For me, running a small business, it does not make sense to remain invested in a system that isn't going to be around in 5 years. I'm jealous of anyone that doesn't have to take that into consideration, but I do because I'd like to maximize what I can get out of one investment when it's time to make a new one. Like I said in a previous post, I'd be happy with the GX85, G85 and GH5 kit I've put together if I didn't have to worry about my M43 gear losing value. If a lens I paid $950 for ends up being worth $200 5 years from now because the system is dead, but I could've gotten $500 if I'd sold it a year or two earlier, that's $300 less I have to invest in my business. That might not be much for some but it is for a small business like me and it's something I must take into consideration. I wish we could stop looking at things in black and white, and accept that others aren't in the same position as us when mocking the decisions they feel they need to make.
    1 point
  17. I actually have a Mixpre on loan from SD right now. Its so good!
    1 point
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