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Yes, I think you could definitely get a Voigtlander for that money, but then you have a m4/3 lens that is fairly pricey with an unknown as to how long the mount will be used. Full frame lenses can always be adapted. I don't really have an approach. I mostly just tinker. I really need to get a new computer or monitor. I've been using my MacBook Air which does not have a 178 degree viewing angle so depending upon how I look at the screen, the image could look different. It's very annoying. I figure once I have something... anything... completed I'll take that stuff more seriously. For those shots I used a Log to Rec709 LUT, made a couple exposure adjustments to open up the waveform and then desaturated the image. So nothing fancy.

just the plain non L Version. As you have noted the L versions are fairly pricey. I think that for those sought of prices i could probably buy a new fast Voigtländer in mft. Still its alot of money either way, for me anyway. The 1.4 certainly does alright. nice image. May i ask what your approach is to b&w conversion ?

Are you looking at the non L version? Admittedly I've never used it but from all accounts it isn't that great of a lens. I'd go with the 1.4 for a 1/4 the price. As you may remember, I also have the 1.2 L that I had modified to EF mount, iris de-clicked, etc... and I think that is one of the best lenses I've ever used. However, with the prices the way they are, I am having a hard time justifying its existence in my bag. I've been looking at some footage lately between the two lenses and although the 1.2 L is definitively a better lens, the 1.4 gets you most of the way there. 1.4 1.2 L I have a few side by sides I'll post later when I'm on my computer.

These lenses continue to rise in price. I saw a 28mm f/2 listed for $2500! That lens was about $150 before the pandemic started. That K-35/FD-L video ruined the FD market for buyers. One of the FD lenses that hasn't drastically gone up is the nFD 50mm 1.4 and that lens is a damn good lens. I've had two or 3 copies over the years and never had a bad one. Weirdly, I found two copies that were modified to Nikon F mount. Here's a shot from the first copy I had...

Out of all the modern lenses I've owned, this one was my favorite. One of the best things about the M43 format is the native lens selection and the easy adaptability of old stuff. Looks like you have plenty to play around with! I would recommend trying the old Pentax Auto110 lenses for your GM1, as that was truly a lot of fun for me when I had it. My avatar here is the GM1 with that 24mm lens on it. Not sure if you've seen it, but here's a link to a doc my wife and I made after the Japan one, the main lenses for this film were the fast Voightlander manual primes:

good luck, As you know covids playing silly buggers with states of aus at the moment 🙄 i have in mind, to buy a canon fd 50mm f1.2. keeping things vintage again. I'm after one fast lens, and i figure if i get an fd it will be a close enough match to my other fd's i have. I have looked at some fast 50's I thought of pentax as i have seven or so m42 takumars however alot of my searches seem to come up with either fungus of haze and still want to dollar. I think if i'm patient i might be able to come away with a canon $500 - 550 and postage on top. Then i'm going cold turkey on lenses, thats the plan anyway.

Well 2 weddings in approx 2 weeks time, 1 remaining Sep that has not postponed/cancelled and ditto 1 Oct so the absolute max for this year will be 4 from what should have been 30. Still better than last years 1 single job that actually happened! The only thing you don’t have really with another S5 is unlimited recording which personally doesn’t bother me, even with a church ceremony as at a convenient point, I just press stop and then immediately start again. Or you can just drop to 8 bit I think which for something static…?? An S5H with even a modest AF improvement would be killer…except Panasonic Lumix continue to frustrate me in a couple of areas… The AF, or perception of, is of course their principal Achilles heel. The negativity and misconception especially on YouTube is so grossly wrong but Panny have done nothing in my eyes to address this. Which leads into their marketing in general, but especially with YouTube which just cannot be ignored or underestimated these days. Compared with all the other major brands, they are by far the weakest in the area of marketing. Add AF to marketing and no wonder their sales are lowest if the big 5. And then these 4 prime lenses… 85 first was a bit odd. I would have gone 35, 50, 24, 85…or better still, just launched them all together. WTF is taking so long?! Had they been available, I would have bought all 4 and used the pairing of 24 + 50 indoors and 35 + 85 out. They look visually a bit crap, but the performance is superb, especially for the money. But I have been driven into the arms of Sigma. Drop .2 of a stop in aperture, but real world the f2’s are the same. Looks are a personal thing, but IMO they visually look superb as is the quality of image coming out of them. The 28-70 gets mixed reviews. It seems the Sony users/reviewers seem to rate it anywhere from average to good but L Mount users as good to excellent. I love it and use it as a twin prime lens using it only as a 28 or a 70 indoors (takes some self-discipline!) or in APSC crop mode outdoors as a ‘40mm’ or a ‘105mm’ with the crop only being in camera and then in post if you want it (with stills) because of course with raw, you are getting the FF file to work with. It’s not quite as ‘jewel like’ as the 35mm f2 or 65mm f2, but not far off and the zoom extension is very minimal. I hate externally zooming lenses! In conclusion, as I said above, Lumix continue to frustrate me as a company. On paper and I think in reality, they do have the best pound for pound cameras currently available in the S5 and the S1 line, but they only have themselves to blame sales-wise they are not sitting at the top table with Sony & Canon.

I'm not an expert in this, but one thing i have been gleaning from pro Canon users is that the official LUTs are not very good for some reason, and that highlight rendition is a particular area of concern. Many people are using third party LUTs for input.

I have a pouch on my hip with a 3 stop, 6 stop and 7 & 2/3 stop NDs that I use for all my professional work. All my filters and lenses have Xume magnetic adapters on so I can quick draw 😃 I've been using m43 cameras (and now S Series too) for 10+ years. At first I used vNDs but I found they regularly caused image artefacts in different lighting situations which wasn't acceptable so when the Xume adapters came to market I quickly switched to fixed NDs. I'm pretty fast even for run and gun assignments, and used to quickly dialling in aperture/ISO to bridge the gaps in my NDs. However, I really do want a cinema camera that has NDs built in now. The Canon C70 and Sony FX6 are well thought out and very tempting small cinema cameras. However, I'm hoping the Panasonic team have something up their sleeve. I'd say the three main things keeping me in the Panasonic camp for now are: 1) Trust in these small, bullet proof cameras in any professional environment (studio running for hours, middle of a field getting drenched by rain etc.) 2) A solid, sensible priced B Cam option (S1 and GH5s my current combo) 3) Panasonic's approach to firmware updates and giving customers all they can. No other manufacturer comes close!! Regarding putting NDs in small bodies, I have thought before that putting a single 3 or 4 stop ND on the grip side that you could activate would be awesome. 3/4 stops is a very handy amount of ND for most situations! Good interview, Andrew!

What about the automatic shut off at 30mins?

OK So for anyone wanting to try this, I have made a really simple method to do it. I have tested this numerous times on my GX80 and it has lived to tell the tale but obviously do this at your own risk. All that this process does is fool the camera into thinking its talking to the smartphone app and then the commands it sends are exactly what the smartphone app sends. Or would do if the smartphone app thought it was talking to a camera equipped with Cinelike D ! So as such it is only getting sent what the Panasonic app would be sending to it so there are no hacky or sneaky debug things getting sent to it. Again, though, proceed at your own risk. Although I would say, if you’ve tried that region switching hack on YouTube with the 10 million key press combos during power up then you’re already brave enough to try this! Bear in mind that my unit is a GX80 and the firmware is version 1.0 If you have a GX85 or have got a different firmware then I just don’t know because obviously I haven’t got any other devices to test it on. Here we go then…. Follow these instructions exactly and you should have Cinelike D on your GX80/85 You will need a laptop or a phone with a browser, the camera and to download the simple html file attached. 1) Switch on camera and turn on wifi as though you were connecting the app and you should see the waiting screen on the camera 2) Load the Deploy Cinelike D.html file into your browser 3) Select ‘Handshake’ 4) You should see the browser page change and it confirm that its connected to a GX80 5) Hit the back key on the browser 6) Select ‘Connect’ 7) You should see the browser page change to say ‘ok’ and the camera give you an ‘Under Remote Control’ message 8) Wait until the camera screen shows you a live view 9) Hit the back key on the browser 10) Select ‘Deploy’ 11) You should see the browser page change to say ‘ok’ and the camera should NOT now be displaying the Photo Style you had selected (i.e. Standard, Vivid etc) 12) Cinelike D is now active on the camera 13) If you go into the menu on the camera and select Photo Style you will see that it is blank and you can’t navigate to other Photo Styles such as Standard etc. 14) To restore the Photo Styles hit the back button on the browser and select ‘Restore’ and the camera will display the Standard photo style and you should then be able to go into Photo Styles and change them. 15) Repeat 9-14 to switch between them to your hearts content! So, like other settings, the Cinelike D profile will persist when you switch the camera off so if you want to use the other Photo Styles again then you MUST go this process again to re-enable them. However, if you would like to switch between them without using this method again (and who wouldn’t) here is a neat way round it. When you’ve done Step 12 and got Cinelike D on, set all your other parameters (4K24p etc) as you’d like them and save these into C1 of the custom settings. Then go to Step 14 and use the ‘Restore’ to get your standard Photo Styles back, set all your other parameters (4K24p etc) as you’d like them and then save these into C2 of the custom settings. Now when you switch the camera on, you simply choose C1 to have Cinelike D or C2 for the standard Photo Styles and forget about using any nonsense about using browsers and wifi connections! In couple of weeks I’m hoping to show you how you can do stuff like this and some other useful bits and pieces from a little hardware gadget that will work on the Panasonic cameras but have fun with this in the meantime. DEPLOY CINELIKE D.html