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First light, and thought I'd go old-school: I've managed to set it up relatively similarly to my GH5, which is awesome. Two questions: Is there any way to set the shutter button to record video instead of take a still while in C mode? I've set the rear dial to be exposure compensation, which only works while not recording - any way around this? Initial impressions are actually pretty awesome. Obviously it's not a GH5, but it still feels very capable, and the IBIS is quite impressive. A couple of 4K frame grabs from the Cosmicar (wide open): and flaring: Obviously I'll have to crop into the image a bit in post, but totally fine for a 1080p timeline (and would be fine for a 4K timeline too - just add a touch of sharpening). ......and then the Helios with Speedbooster: Screen grabs (also wide open): Flaring:

In my experience of trying to maximize efficiency of lights, the answer is no. In your example, at the same distance if you used the fresnel vs softbox, the fresnel would produce a small hotspot which is totally useless for soft lighting. If you then moved the light with the fresnel back to cover the same area, it would be farther away and the intensity would greatly decrease. If I've learned anything about softlighting it's that nothing beats more power. The most effective way to get more soft light is to literally get more lights.

By the way, there is a real need for someone like you with your skills. There is a dearth of real mentors in the video world bringing information to enthusiasts. The most memorable post on EOSHD for me was "Kendy Ty and the T2i – one guy doing amazing things with a 5 year old DSLR" back in 2014. https://www.eoshd.com/creative-filmmaking/kendy-ty-t2i-one-guy-amazing-things-5-year-old-dslr/ This kind of review is so hard to find these days. It was less about what the gear can do for you, and more about what you can do with the gear.

Hi Tomsemiterrific I'm in a bit of a hurry here but here are some notes that I've collected over the past few months. Hope this helps. Canon C-LOG 18% Middle grey = 32.79% IRE 90% White = 62.74% IRE http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?300371-how-do-I-know-I-m-properly-exposed-when-shooting-in-C-log/page2&s=d408a43004d503887fd6bc7fd4a2ab77 On another forum, James Longley, who has been using C-log for his Afghanistan documentary, posted this: "One thing about exposure: Don't overexpose the C300. Just set the zebras at 90% (+/-5) and don't let anything go over unless absolutely necessary. You may think that the shadows are gone, but they're not. The camera is very forgiving – you get so much more than what you can see of the darks on the LCD screen in daylight. You have to just have faith that the shadow detail will be there when you bring the material home." It is always important to test, but I think you can expose highlights in C-log up to 90% on a waveform. Using a lower ISO won’t cause more noise, but will result in less dynamic range, in particular in the highlights. Instead of using a lower ISO, use an ND filter. Also, to reduce noise, I recommend overexposing by about a half stop. Canon doesn’t recommend this, but Shane Hurlbut does and my testing has confirmed that this camera needs a little extra light to keep the noise down. Ebrahim Saadawi: Activate waveform, expose until just before 100%. Trust me, this is the best image for the C100 C-Log in noise, DR, colour, skin. You'll see when you try it. The image is so much thicker and nicer when brought down while falls apart while pulled up. It's so easy to expose as the waveform is super fluid (real time at 25 fps). And yes ETTR even by pumping up ISO, on the C100 an under exposed 850 image is noisier than an ETTR 3200 image. But ideally, ETTR with iris and shutter and lights at 850 native ISO. Yes if you don't want to spend the huge effort of neat video in post, in shoots where you're going above 6400+ ISO, increasing the NR to 5 in the menus gives a ENORMOUS lowlight advantage with no detail loss. Beyond that you start losing. Also test using WDR instead of C-Log. Especially for +6400 ISO with +5 NR. I would actually shoot the first one shot in WDR at 850 ISO under sunlight just to avoid the initial momentary disappointment you might get with seeing your first shot in C-Log, especially if it's in lowlight, with Cinema Lock (no DR) and exposed down a bit. WDR serves GREAT in fast jobs, some people even prefer it for grading. So compare both too as a test. http://www.hingsberg.com/index.php/2013/01/canon-c-log-exposed-literally/ The chart below that I put together is based on information provided from Canon’s whitepaper on C-LOG. From the chart you can see how image brightness values are remapped to new values. For example 18% middle grey which is normally 50%IRE moves down to around 32-33%. 90%IRE (white) will appear on your waveform monitor at only 62-63%. It’s really important to use these new values (even if you don’t understand them) when setting your exposure in C-LOG mode since it will maximize the dynamic range your sensor is capable of and preserve as much of the scene information as possible. This “maximum” amount of information is needed later when you de-LOG your footage and begin grading and color correcting in post. http://blog.abelcine.com/2012/10/05/working-with-canon-log/ http://www.hdvideopro.com/columns/help-desk/the-rules-of-log-exposure Canon C-LOG-18% Middle grey .textClipping Pasted Graphic 1.tiff Pasted Graphic.tiff