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I've been using the Meike nd adaptor for a little while now and it has been faultless, so much nicer than usual vari nd, no obvious colour change as you get to maximum nd and the 9 stops is enough here for me in the UK afternoon sun with f1.8 lenses at 800 iso. It may be a different story If you use faster lenses and live in brighter parts of the world of course...

I have this one and its a solid all round option for general use, particularly when travelling. These frames are from using it on my OG Pocket.

If you record 1080p Prores HQ then that card should be good for about 94 mins, 422 should be longer... Just in case you're feeling like more testing would be fun 🙂 Great to hear the 2h 17m GH6 result was with the DR boost mode on. I can't think of what other features would drain a battery so much that it would reduce that battery life significantly. Thanks for doing these tests. I've said it before, but I'll say it again. Even basic tests frequently prove that a significant proportion of "what everyone knows" is actually just plain wrong, or so oversimplified or limited in context that it is either so useless or misleading it has the same effect as being wrong. If you can test it yourself, you really should.

Difference is, that you cannot throw these light conditions at the GH1 as you can throw at the F3. You still would have to get pretty lucky and work extra hard to get an image out of the GH1 like the images in this video. Possible, if not pixel peeping, but not an efficient thing to do imho. Possible but not granted. @webrunner5

That is the lens I m thinking to pair R7 as well, Meike drop in nd adapter come with clear filter too which is a big plus!

No, shot at 5.7K 17:9 BRAW 5:1 for acquisition and going on 2K for post. Master and delivery as much as possible, yes, ProRes 422 HQ. This information published at first hand here throughout this thread will be available on IMDb movie's page in a couple of days. - EAG

I took this with the LEICA 12-60mm F2.8-4.0 ASPH. POWER O.I.S. on the GH5 handheld unedited. I am not great at twisting my body anymore that much lol but... Not my best effort but kind of shows how good the combo is.

I would go with the M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 12-100mm F4.0 IS if you have the money. Great lens and constant aperture. I have had the LEICA 12-60mm F2.8-4.0 ASPH. POWER O.I.S and the LUMIX G VARIO 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 II ASPH, POWER O.I.S. I just keep falling back on a 14-140mm as an all-rounder. Maybe I have been lucky, but I have had 3 different models of the 14-140 and everyone was a great lens. But the LEICA 12-60mm F2.8-4.0 ASPH. POWER O.I.S is a shaper lens and faster, and it too has a great range, and wider on the short end. But the 12-100mm would sort of be the best of those 2 combined. But, and it is a big but not sure the image stabilization plays nice on a Panny body? Never owned one. I know from experience that the LEICA 12-60mm F2.8-4.0 ASPH. POWER O.I.S. on the GH5 is pretty amazing stabilization wise. Killer combo.

Another from a couple of days ago... I think I've finally got my reference monitor setup, so my grading should be better.

@hyalinejim Since ProRes requires less processing, then theoretically you should get a little better battery life with ProRes as well, right?

On Yes, this is a good middle ground for shooting outdoors, especially when it's sunny. If you can see the LCD properly (and if not you can use the EVF) you can decide to raise or lower the temperature depending on the colour of the light and/or aesthetic preference. That's because the stills use the full height of the sensor in 4:3 aspect ratio. The video clips are a 16:9 crop and so the vignetting is cropped out of the frame. It's such a small amount of vignetting that it would be easy to manually crop in post for stills. However, if you turn IBIS off for stills it might disappear altogether.

You really want to push the price for an F3 up to $1M!

Dang, this looks great! Maybe I need to get another Panasonic... S5? It kinda reminded me of Picnic at Hanging Rock.

The 12-32 is certainly a cute little lens and a very affordable way to get a wide lens for the GX85. I’m not aware of any way to manual focus in camera, I only used S-AF with that one. One of the reasons why I don’t use it much these days.

Heck, great image, this guy got out of his GX85! Great montage and camerawork as well. He shot with the native 25mm 1.7 and the pancake zoom 12-32. I heard good things about both lenses.

So I did many test and the face tracking the R5c thanks to the Face Only mode is more reliable/usable for video than the R5. I did shoot a school theater (not my usual stuff) and with a 70-200 at 2.8 with even changing lights etc the Face AF worked almost perfectly and when it loses the Face the fact that it does not jump focus it does not ruin the shoot. In pure speed R5 and R5c with the AF settings to the max speed/reactive they are exactly the same, I tested side by side with the same lens. Now here is where my problem was the "large AF area" of the R5c is similar to the second smaller AF area of the R5 the one that I use the most for action and it turns out that R5c tend to stick to the BG and not refocus on the subject but surprisingly when using the smaller AF area the R5c works like the R5 in the second smaller area. Bottomline this seems to fix my issue. Still it would be cool to have R5 AF engine animal, vehicle and all the other AF area at disposal but with this setup it seems to work for my stuff as I normal use either Face or the small area AF. Bottomline the camera is growing on me, but it could be just amazing if they would really share more between the two systems.