Leaderboard

base plate sample has arrived today. Need a little adjustment😉

Comparison of 4K fine vs lineskip and also 4k60p crop vs non crop

Well the new firmware with new temp control for video seems like make R5 really hard to overheat now, people getting really good 8K, 4KHQ and 4K120 recording time to CFExpress. R6 sadly still overheat the same? R3 getting 240fps in FHD which is nice.

2nd part 3rd (last) part

Peter says it overheated after 2 3/4 hours. BUT that's without recording internally (he was recording via HDMI) and with a dummy battery. He says that the camera itself felt hotter than any other camera he has felt. He was able to immediately turn the camera back on and continue recording, though. I'd be real cautious about doing that though, because it can't be good for a camera's internals to push it that hard. He thinks perhaps the overheating shut off is something programmed into the camera, but isn't sure. This was all indoors with AC. He gives the specific situation and modes he used in the video. I do wish he'd tested while recording internally and with a battery to see if that made a difference. 2 3/4 hours is probably more than enough for most folks, but that the camera body itself gets so warm is a bit concerning.

Watched the third instalment just recently. All three chapters are EPIC! Very detailed and comprehensive. Love all the stuff Media Division upload :)

The big question is, how will this affect camera life? Once bought a second hand 70D with low shutter, that failed quickly with a faulty motherboard (was used a lot for video).

The one that came today, people getting over 2hrs of 8K without overheating. EOS R5 Firmware Update Version 1.6.0 22nd July 2022 Firmware Version 1.6.0 incorporates the following enhancements: 1. Adds [Auto Power Off Temp.: Standard/High] to the menu for movie recording. When [High] is selected, the camera will not automatically turn off when the temperature of the camera body and card become high, which may allow for longer movie recording than before, depending on the shooting conditions. Note that the temperature of the bottom surface of the camera may increase at this time. 2. Adds the ability to convert multiple HEIF images into multiple JPEG images. 3. Enhances the performance of "Movie Digital IS". It stabilizes the image when taking selfies or walking shots using a wide-angle lens. 4. Fixes minor issues.

All of that @Thpriest But if anything, my wishes are even more simple: S1H body, just shrunk 10%. Reliable tracking AF. DFD or phase, I don’t care, as long as it works. 30mp full frame sensor for my stills needs. Done. The S5 itself though has too many ergo, function and haptic flaws for me, ie, I personally do not consider it pro grade whereas my S1H and S1R most definitely are.

Thinking about it seriously there are a few things Panasonic will need to do to keep me with them (S5H or S1H2). Improve AF drastically. It doesn't need to be the best in the world but it needs to be reliable not like it is now where it can have a mind of it's own. Punch in to check focus whilst recording. No crop 4-5K at 25, 50 and 100 all in 10bit. If they could stretch to 6K that'd be even better. No time limit. EVF must be the one on the S1 not the S5. Screen should be the same as the GH6 with flexi-postion thingy. Prores on SDs would be great. Lock or change shutter speed wheel. They have got just about everything else right.

1) If the vibrations are high frequency enough, you will still get the jello effect, even with the tiny sensors. I would not expect any damage though as there are no moving parts in the iphone. 2) All Ibis units have hard limits on their range of movement and I'm quite sure if you yank them to their limit hard enough and often enough something will break eventually. These systems were not designed for violent movements, there is no mechanical dampening or absorption when they reach the limits of their range, just loud clicks. I would not risk my camera at it unless I would be ok with breaking it anyway. Maybe you could get creative with something like this: https://www.proaim.be/collections/shock-absorbing-systems like this photographer: https://radpowerbikes.eu/blogs/the-scenic-route/a-rad-setup-for-ebiking-photographers If you happen to know any farmers, they are usually also quite good at creatively putting together some mechanized contraptions.

Try to format it on a PC as exFat via a card reader so you can see if the card is functioning. I normally format my cards on the PC.

I meant the reason for the color loss, which is the chroma smoothing. The reasons for the chroma smoothing at this extent I don't know and as you said, we may never know. I wouldn't say this is a compression issue. This is not something caused by compression algorithms, this looks like some kind of smoothing, tupp already shared some thoughts about that in this thread: https://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/60753-color-detail-issues-in-fujifilm-video-files/?do=findComment&comment=471363

OIS or IBIS have almost no problem dealing with severe vibrations. Their killer is dust. Even if your lens is "weather sealed", its not immune to dust. Stabilizer being on lens or sensor, use very tiny metal balls lubricated by a special oil, to move smoothly. If that oil contaminated by environment particles, it loses its required viscosity, and the result is jumpy moves.

I think you might be referring to a z axis stabiliser add on ? I did this quick test of the Ulanzi one for my Osmo Pocket here. It certainly helps with the bobbing when walking with an Osmo Pocket so also helps with other types of shots where there would be unwanted up/down motion. It can be modified easily enough for an iPhone but whilst its good (and tuneable) for controlling the unwanted motion, I'm doubtful how useful it would be with more extreme cases.

I always laugh when they want you to buy a 2500 dollar camera and they show the results using 100,000 dollars of shit and a crew of 10 to get the shot.