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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2022 in all areas

  1. Always the Sigma FP or FP-L. The problem is I am a minimalist...or as much as I can be and like a streamlined workflow. At present, I am working with 4 camera bodies only 2 of which are identical, but next gen with L Mount will hopefully get me to my ideal 3. So where would an FP fit in? It doesn't, not into my work needs anyway, but maybe in '23 I can wrangle one for personal use...
    2 points
  2. Many times I've considered the original A7S or the Fuji XT3, and since I've gotten back into still photography, I'm thinking about them again for stills/video.
    2 points
  3. When this system was announced, there was a discussion over the internal rechargeable battery not only in terms of run times but also over longevity and if it failed would that be game over for the units. At the time, I speculated that based on the power spec quoted by Sennheiser and the shape of the units then it was likely that it was going to be a standard off the shelf battery (a 3.7V/850mAh 14500) so not only should it be possible to replace a dead battery, it shouldn't be that much of a challenge to make it swappable if you needed really long run times in the field. So.....now that I actually have one, I thought I'd have a look. And, yes indeed, it is a standard 3.7V/850mAh 14500 battery. You can pick these up for less than £1 each and a charger will set you back about £5-7. The connector to the board is also just a standard connector so if you really need the longer run times and swap out capability its pretty straightforward to fashion this yourself and have all day run times for both receiver and transmitter for under £20. Now, where did I put that warranty form....
    1 point
  4. Canon 70D. Interesting cheap camera with ML RAW mojo and dual pixel autofocus. Paired with a sigma 18-35 could be an interesting combo!
    1 point
  5. RevTodd

    Sennheiser XSW-D Batteries

    Hi Folks, I see a recurring question here on the opening of the module. In short, it isn't hard. You basically have to pry it apart along the seam. Some will use a guitar pick, but I happened to have a 1" square of metal (you might have it too... it came with a magnetic phone mount, the metal that sticks to the phone) that was thin and able to get in there to pry and pop it open. I see some people have asked about a larger capacity battery, and while that is certainly possible, I wasn't able to find one. I just replaced it with another 800mah 14500 3.7v battery I found at the local electronics store. MAKE SURE IT HAS SOLDERABLE ENDS ON IT!! Once you pop the top, you've got to pull the circuit board out and disconnect the two connectors. The battery is held in place with some double sided tape on the underside that you can't see, but you'll need a small screwdriver or something to pry it out. Next step is to take the plastic wrapper off to expose the connections. (see my first picture) Then on the top side of the battery, peel the black cover back (it's under the little circuit board) to expose the top battery connector. Cut that silver strip. (see picture 3) You do the same thing on the bottom of the battery. Basically at this point you've got to pay attention to how long the solderable lead is that is on your replacement battery. Mine was about an inch long, so I didn't end up cutting the connector at the very bottom. You can see how I trimmed it in picture 5. Once those two connectors are cut, you move the unit you just cut off onto your new battery. In picture 6 I've soldered that connector that goes down the side of the battery. Do the same thing on the top. Once you've soldered it up, wrap the battery back up with some electrical tape and you're good to go!
    1 point
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