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Just to follow up, in case anyone is reading. Turns out it was definitely more my settings (which I had jiggered oddly to work around the old firmware). Setting everything back to stock then selecting continuous, area, sensitivity at 0, and speed at -4 and I'm quite happy with the results for moving images. Nice update!

As I was watching the S5II reviews I realised that people are taking the same V-Log files and ending up with very different colour results. I guess there are four main approaches - use the colour in the file untouched, use Panny's LUT, use Resolve's Rec709 conversion, or use a third party LUT. This post compares the accuracy of each and discusses the trade-offs that might be made. This applies to the GH6 and any other Panasonic cameras that share a similar color palette. I'll be using extracted colour patches from a colour target. This is how the chart looks in reality: Below, I match the gamma of a GH6 V-Log shot of this chart and then look at the results. Open in paired tabs on a monitor and flick back and forth to compare. 1. Don't transform the colour, just add contrast: You can see here by comparing with the original that overall saturation is way down, cyan magenta and yellow are too bright, reds are too orange, greens are too yellow and blues are too bright. Skintones are too green. I guess some people grade like this. However the colours are still in V-gamut and ideally should be transformed to Rec709. Even when I manually colour grade in Resolve so that some patches are accurate, then others are still totally off. Not recommended. 2. Use Panasonic's VLog to V709 LUT This official LUT comes with a half-assed curve as part of it. But you can separate the components using LutCalc and just get a LUT that is the colour transform only. The colour LUT must come first, before the curve, or things will go wonky. Cyans are too bright, magentas too pale, yellows too dark and orangey, reds a smidgen too bright and orangey, greens too pale and light, and blues are absolutely far too light and cyan. Skintones are slightly too pink. Despite these colour inaccuracies this is actually a good colour transform in the sense that as far as I have looked I have never spotted any colour weirdness in the image like banding or colour clipping. It's a slightly muted look though, and not good for landscapes - foliage, sea and sky will suffer a washed out fate here. 3. Use Resolve's Color Space Transform to convert to Rec709 colour Note that Panasonic's official LUT is available in Resolve under the LUT menu. However, you will get different colour results using the Color Space Transform effect to convert V-gamut to Rec709. I was a little bit excited when I saw these results at first. It looked off-hand to be a bit better than Panny's conversion, especially in terms of the lightness of the blues. However closer inspection reveals that although cyans are just about right, magentas are too bright and saturated, yellows too orange, reds too bright and saturated, greens are close but deep blues are oversaturated. This colour conversion differs from the Panny insofar as it has to be applied after the curve conversion, not before. When you do this I noticed some weird colour artifacts in footage I'd shot at an aquarium. So yes, the blues are more accurate but the inaccurate Panny conversion gave an image with integrity whereas blues began to clip and go weird (even with saturation mapping). Overall, this gives more accurate and I think nicer colour than Panny. However, if I was a wedding or nightclub shooter I'd be wary of colour artifacting in strong coloured lighting scenarios. 4. Third party LUT I was interested to see if I could make a colour accurate LUT for the GH6. I gave it a go and you can check out the LUT here. The LUT must go after the contrast curve, not before! Yes, it's very accurate compared to the other approaches. When contrast is relatively moderate and the range of colours is not so saturated it looks a bit similar to the Resolve transform. However, there is much better hue accuracy and saturation control in all tonal areas, which you really notice if you crank up the contrast or have very saturated. However, I did still notice some of that colour weirdness in the aquarium shots. So it looks like Panasonic know what they're doing in terms of sacrificing colour accuracy to preserve image integrity. And I guess if total colour accuracy is what you're after you need to shoot RAW! Finally, here's a comparison on a real world image: Vgamut Panasonic Vgamut to V709 Resolve Vgamut to Rec709 (skintones are nice but note the oversaturated reds on the skirt) Custom LUT

After the powerfull S5mk2 presentation I just wanted to summarize some cons and pros for both systems from perspective of a guy who owns a Sony camera but switched from GH5 mainly cos of the reliabilty issiues with Panny AF. Now ofc we need to take into account that S5mk2 is a baseline new Panny camera with PDAF. They will defeintly introduce updates to the rest of their lineup and it would be much easier to make up your mind in the future when we see all those camers. Nevertheless I just want to lay out what I already can see at the current market position. So this comparison not gonna be very camera specific as obviosly A7S3 beats S5mk2 in terms of rolling shutter and FF resolutions cos Sony is a leader of camera sensor production and they keep their best and newest sensors for themselfs exclusively. Ok lets do it: Sony Pros: - Lens lineup. Yes, an obvious one. E-mount has the strongest lens selection, with tons of options from a plethora of manufcatures. Tamron zooms are awesome and unique. Samyang primes are tiny, awesome and affordable. Sony lenses are quite compact themselfs (compared to Pany its noticable). And they all work more or less the same on Sony cameras. - Compactness of the system. You can have a very compact kit with a Sony camera. Both their bodies and lens selection lets you build a very manageable system in terms of size and weight - Recorded gyro data. That is a pretty cool option. I am currently experimenting with it using GyroFlow which is a much better software than the infamous CatsalystBrowse, I will share my experience on the topic later. Gyroflow already has a Resolve plug-in but its not that great. Future iterations might improve significantly. - Sony will always have the latest Sony sensor tech and that is a big factor of their sucesess And I kind of ran of out pros at this moment 🙂 Cons: - FIRMWARE updates almost never happen. Thats a very big downside for me cos I hate when companies treat their customers mostly like milking moneybags . And that seems to be a strategy here. - A very limited amount of video specific tools. Maybe you want false color, waveforms, shutter angle, opengate recording? Well keep dreaming or buy a Sony higher tier "proper cinema camera" for that. I guess FX3\30 does not classify as one. - IBIS is meeh unless you are using post-gyro stabilization which works only in specific modes (doesnt work in S&Q for example or 120fps) - Body ergomonics is meeh - HDMI output feed is terribly desgined. Panasonic wins here by a mile. In general Sony makes an impression of company that is not vert keen on listenning to their customers feedback and they would prefer to milk all of them to the last drop than to make them happy giving some relevant camera updates and showing some feedback and ability to listen. And for me its an important trait that I react to. Panny boy: Pros: - the new IBIS is just FUCKING AMAZING! Bravo Panny! You took it to the next level truly. - Panny update policy is one of the best in the buisness. You can rest assured that your camera will get relivant updates for the next 2-3 years or more with some sudden surpises along the way. - Panny ergonomics is quite good - their HDMI output layout is great! - All the video orieneted features that Sony is missing, Panny is actively adding to their cameras Cons: - Lenses. The obvious one. They are big, they are expensive, they are limited in variety. But.. their quality is quite good. Focus breathing compensation build-in is very appreciated. And Sigma lenses giving the system some lighter and cheaper options in nice. So its not all that bad but Sony still wins here quite firmly. - no PDAF.. haha. Well that in the past now. Huge con elliminated finally What else? Well we need to see the all new lineup refreshed to make an adequte judgement here so the time will tell. But for now Panasonic just raised from the underdog to a strong contender in my eyes. --- Border line. For now purely as a company Panny wins in my eyes. They are just more user friendly and video oriented and innovative beyond just sensor tech innovation.

On full frame I think I'd have to go 35mm. The ability to switch from FF to APSC would give me the ability to use it as a 35mm and a 50mm, and those are two of my most common focal lengths. A 50mm would come close, since then I'd have some telephoto capabilities but I think the 35 would win out.

I've actually seen his videos before but didn't sub as I assumed his channel was inactive since so much time had passed since his last one I'd seen. Glad he's being more active. I think if he stays consistent he'll do well, as I concur with what you've said!

The gap is pretty huge after 24mm. Sony doesn't even really look stabilized at that point. If you aren't moving Sony's IBIS is pretty decent. But once you get moving, you're gonna end up having problems.

From what I've seen Panasonic have released a new firmware that deals with wobble effect up to 20mm. Looks like the Sony IBIS is effective when walking with active mode on - am presuming that is with a slight crop. Panasonic much better with just IBIS

Good to hear. I read your initial post on the 3.0 update and I was 🤷‍♂️ lost because from what I can tell with the small amount of time I've had to shoot anything since updating I definitely see improvement and I was pretty cool with the AF before the update.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, or my settings worked around the old firmware and need to change, but I find the 3.0 update to be a huge step backwards in the AF...

As someone that is about 6 months into owning an R5C, my only regret is not buying an R5 first. Only bcuz I'm doing alot of run n gun and handheld b-roll stuff and would've preferred the longer battery life and IBIS right now - although I plan on getting an R5 later this year. But my advice would be to wait if you can because the price of the R5C and R5 will probably drop even lower once the R5 II is released and who knows, maybe that's the cam for you (maybe even me). Do remember though that if you go with the R5C there's a whole other bag of $$ you're gna need to spend on powering options. Personally I've settled on the grip (there's a cheaper third party option available now but comes with some cons I think) + FxLion Nano for proper shoots and an Anker Powerbank as a backup power source.

The Fuji film X-T4 is a great camera, but the Nikon Z6 is a more versatile option that offers better performance and features. The Nikon Z6 has a full-frame sensor, which makes it ideal for low-light photography and provides more depth-of-field control. The Z6 also has a better autofocus system, with more focus points and better tracking capabilities than the X-T4. Additionally, the Nikon Z6 has a longer battery life and dual card slots, which is a plus for professional photographers. In conclusion, while the Fuji film X-T4 is a great camera and has its own strengths, the Nikon Z6 offers more advanced features and capabilities, making it a better option for those who want a versatile camera that can be used for both still photography and video. ** If someone is going to generate a post using ChatGPT then its only fair that we use ChatGPT to generate a reply to it. **