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Not all small black cameras have these issues. Here's a test of a bunch of small black cameras: He did the tests in a room at 75F/23.9C and he cooled them down to 80F/26.7C before starting the test. Results: Looking at some of these results, I'm not sure your theory stands up. Comparing them to the Sony, these are obviously smaller sensors, but heat management is about power consumption vs surface area, and these all have MUCH smaller surface areas than a MILC like the Sony.

So white items are cooler. I would say "who knew" but I think Apple knew all along.

In theory, yes, these things are all true, but not for this camera. Here's the video posted earlier by @SRV1981... check out the outside testing. In case you don't want to watch a couple of minutes of video, here's the results: Tested in North Carolina in mid-morning 80F and humid, in direct sun Tested from cold in AC all night Tested in 4K XAVCS, auto temp set to high, screen open Tested at 24p Overheated in 22 minutes Let me summarise: camera is not reliable. Will it work for some people in some conditions? Sure. Will it work for you? No way to tell. There's no way I'd buy a camera like this, because you would have to know you can't record with it in the sun (even at indoor temps!), or in a hot building, or at 60p, etc etc

So white ZV-E1 last 50% more recording time than black ZV-E1 under the sun, that's good to know! Well I feel I made the right choice for white coloour (beside looking fancy haha) And I didnt knew it have firmware last month to improve SteadyShot.

Another point that is bothering me right now: the lack of testing some details point, coupled together with (looks like) the companies refusing to answer some technical details. Some examples: - Electronic shutter for stills: what are the penalties, if any, besides rolling shutter? In the past, I remember some smaller Panasonics reverting to a lower bit depth when using it. Tested in my current cameras, the RAWs have the full bit depth, but it is real bit depth or less bits wrapped in a bigger bit depth "container"? There is a dynamic range penalty? Never find a correct (and justified) answer. - Always is said that a 4k image downsampled from a larger read in camera render a better image than a 4k crop of the sensor. Looks logical - but why the image quality from the Open Gate cameras (hence, using a 1:1 readout of the sensor) are showing no image penalty? - Which cameras have (or not) plug-in power for using external mics? Good luck to find out. Every review is the same topics over and over. Taking the X-S20 for example: no one mentioned that the Face / Eye AF is not only better, but is totaly different than before, you have to use is a very different way. No comparison between the penalties of using lower data bitrates - is 360mbps and 200mbps much different? Or 10-bit 4:2:2 and 10-bit 4:2:0 - I've discovered this is a HUGE topic for Windows users this week, because Nvidia cards only have decoders for 10 bit 4:2:0, you could have the best RTX 4xxx card and your 10 bit 4:2:2 footage will only decode using CPU; and only the newer Intels CPUs with iGpu have hardware decoders 10 bit 4:2:2. Everything is very shallow.

I think there probably is something to sensor size being a contributing factor to overheating, but I don't think it's THE factor. I think it's the processing and overall body design. I mean, up until the S1H, GH6 and the S5II/X, Panasonic have been able to do it in both M43 and full frame without a fan. It really might boil down to Panasonic having superior processing (not just power, but more efficient coding) and body design. Once that wasn't enough to handle heating issues they added a recording limit, like in the original S5, or added the fans. Sony would get crap for putting in a recording limit, which is why I imagine they don't do it, but at least it'd be honest. At least then people would know how long they could record consistently.

That guy… He only regurgitates rumors he gets from other rumor places which get theirs from…?? Zero actual sources as far as I am aware. I’d take anything he says with a pinch of salt. Some rumors just by chance or even logic will be right, so odds are, sometimes these folks are right. But still just speculation normally…

Probably. Which is also why I use Panasonic. It’s a very real concern. Or rather it hasn’t been since I went over to L Mount in 2021. Not even a hint of a warning, never mind anything like a shut down and I’ve had cameras on tripods, in 40+ Celsius in the shade, direct sunlight, shooting 4k 50p for up to an hour without a single break. And that was with the original S5 which didn’t have a fan! The S1H does of course as does the S5ii which are my primary video workhorses. No fan or active cooling in some form, no dice for me these days…

Cool shots! I saw some had the longer exposure time, which suited the situation well as it showed the motion. I think motion blur in photos is highly under-rated as it removes the movement of the moment, which often is a critical aspect of the situation - a 1/5000s shutter freezes the dancing and the longer you look at the image the more the people look like mannequins who are motionless rather than there being life in the shot.

I was actually planning to do that for some of the shots. There will be some lighting, likely string lights around the perimeter and possibly some dim overhead lighting. I've been able to get decent light that way at these dances in the past.

Yeah, that sounds like a difficult environment, and F1.4 is only a stop better than your current lenses which isn't that much in the grand scheme of things. You can also slow the shutter down to 270 or even 360 degrees, which will make the footage more surreal, but that's how weddings are anyway, so it might be a nice effect, especially on wide shots where the motion-blur wouldn't be so large compared to the size of the frame. @MrSMW may have some additional advice, but I've heard of people resorting to adding their own lighting in such situations. A couple of strategically placed Lume Cube style lights might make up the difference perhaps? IIRC I've heard wedding videographers say that if you use small lights with a hard light then people seem to ignore them much more than bigger lights or light panels, plus those ones are battery powered so could literally just be placed somewhere up high. They wouldn't last long, but you probably only need to record for 5 minutes to get a few usable shots.

If it's an option for you, there are a bunch of really fast manual primes for MFT available for ridiculously small prices now, especially from TTartisans: https://ttartisan.myshopify.com/collections/aps-c-lenses?sort_by=created-descending&filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&filter.v.option.mount=M43 I've got the 17mm F1.4 and the 50mm F1.2 and they're basically the same level of optical performance as the (much more expensive) Voigtlander F0.95 MFT primes. The F1.4 lenses are two stops faster than a F2.8 lens and at the native ISO800 on the BM cameras is almost as much low-light advantage as having a second native ISO (the second ISO on dual-native ISO cameras are often only 3 stops above the base one).

I remember one of the first experiments we did in school teaching us about doing experiments. We got two tin cans, put a hole in each of them, put a thermometer in each to read the internal temperature, and then wrapped one in black paper and one in white paper. Then we put them in the sun and took temperature readings over something like 30 minutes. The black container internal temp shot up quickly, and it felt hot to the touch after only a few minutes, but then the temperature started to plateau. The white one started much more gradually, but slowly and surely kept rising. Every minute we took readings and drew graphs of both of them. We were able to compare the two graphs and IIRC the white one was following the same curve, it was just slower. By the end of the experiment the white one had almost caught up to the black one. The colour delays the rise in temp, it doesn't eliminate it. Maybe that is enough difference to get the shot rather than not getting it, but it's not a permanent solution.

Yeah, test test test. I don't have a lot of experience with the original a7s, but I'd imagine nailing your white balance and exposure will help you out a lot. Seems to go a really long way with the older mirrorless cameras.

Indeed, I had already decided to buy in white colour if any and posted in these boards BTW because of that, so that doesn't surprise me at all, just comes to confirm my bet :- )

No specific advice from me, but what you've said above sounds reasonable. I'd just say that if you can do any testing beforehand then that's something that always pays dividends. If you need any help in grading things afterwards then just ask, happy to take a look and help if I can. I'd imagine the client would expect the video to look similar to the photos? If so, I'd suggest trying each mode in your tests beforehand and see what the default profiles look like under those conditions so you can choose the optimal one.

Wow.. I thought the overheating issues were likely when the camera was in the sun (which definitely heats black objects) but that was in the shade..... Yeah, lots of people are going to buy this camera and then find themselves with a new appreciation of using their phone.

I mean not all brands have overheating issues, so... 😉

Well from the youtube link I posted Tested in Taiwan,outdoor in shade and in door, Tested in XAVCS-I Indoor 26C - Overheated in 30min 4K24P, 4K120P 5min on 28C Outdoor 32C - Overheated in 17min 4K24P, 4K120P 5min

$60 an hour for fruit picker during the lockdown, that was good money 😆 https://www.stuff.co.nz/bay-of-plenty/300551480/60-an-hour-to-pick-fruit-kiwifruit-industry-desperate-for-workers