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You can get the Sigma 40mm f1.4 ART in L mount but in terms of it being a pancake… well it is if you like your pancakes in this sort of quantity.

What about a 50mm 1.8 bargain lens on the S1? @Beritar That should be much smaller. The Sigma 45mm 2.8 is pretty small but is a relevant amount narrower regarding fov than a 40mm. No real equivalent to the nice 20mm 1.7 in the FF world other than the Voigtlaender 40mm F2 in M-mount or a Konica with a long flange and adapter. I love the fov coming from a 40mm lens on a FF camera. A native 40mm 2.8 pancake would be sweet, with Af and a clutch for hard stops when in manual focus. The G9 II in S5II body is dwarfed by the gigantic S1.😂 Oly 35RC has a 42.5mm F2.8 lens btw. I loved that lens and focal length and that camera.:)

What kind of sports do you cover? Imo you should choose by lenses not bodies as 3 years ago Nikon had nothing, now they have two of the best cameras but in 6 months from now? My standard kit R5 R5c RF 100-300 2.8 RF 28-70 2 RF 16 2.8 1.4 tc I have also RF 70-200 2.8 but I use it basically only on Gimbal now as the 100-300 covers a better range. I'm thinking of changing 70-200 for the 24-105 but I'm not sure I like the 100-200 range on gimbal. I also have the RF 100-500 that I use for Freeride and MTB where I'm skiing or on a bike so the 100-300 is just too heavy. I also have the 2x TC but I use it only for daylight horses' competition on big fields and for airplanes/wildlife.

Not so much. My wife uses Sony cameras, I'm not a fan of them but I like some FE lenses so I use them occasionnaly ... Otherwise, I only use M43 and Panasonic L mount (I also have my good old NX1 and NX500).

Yes, on M43 it's hard to get the same look than a FF 35mm f1.4 or f1.2. I have the 35mm GM for that, awesome lens, ultra sharp wide open with nice bokeh, and not so large and heavy. It's one of the best lens I ever used. I would love to put this lens on my Panasonic S cameras ...

Sadly the 20mm f1.7II is still very noisy, but at least the AF-C is not bad on the G9II !

The AF-C is relatively fast on the G9II, it's very surprising :

The 25mm and 45mm Oly Pro lenses are even heavier than the 50mm and 85mm f1.8 S. But yes both the Oly share similar size and weight. Technically, you can say they are close to f2.5 for DOF and Bokeh, they are also less sharp wide open than the S 50mm and 85mm Panasonic FF. But their bokeh and rendering are great, and we can't get the same IBIS quality, the same rolling shutter and the 4K 120fps when using the S lenses on the S5II.

Just an update, it does seem from reading around that this My Menu bug affected X-T5 and users were told to limit items to only one page of My Menu instead of two. I tried this realizing that damn near everything can be accessed in the quick menu on my X-S20 instead, and after many tests it does seem to patch the issue. Some users seem to report it never occurring on their camera and others say it still occurs. Funny I didn’t recall seeing this mentioned in any of the few X-S20 or many X-T5 reviews on the internet.. My review as of one month owning and using is this: * Great image SOOC. If you hate color grading like me, this is the price I’m willing to ignore most of the downfalls * Better grip than XT3, smaller body but not too small. Lack of d-pad and only one stick for navigating that kind of sucks sometimes * Usable touch screen *Good battery life \ poor battery access depending if on a tripod (not issue for me, hardly ever use a tripod) * IBIS is usable depending on use case. I have notoriously shaky hands, and this simply works for me. I’m not trying to film myself, vlogging style, just trying to get stable handheld and it works great here. *My Menu software bug. Hopefully this gets fixed because if not, limited to no use of my menu. * Limited physical buttons on camera. However there are touch screen has swipe functions * “Q” button helps lack of physical buttons by access to almost anything via a pop up menu. Including frame rates, codecs, pet auto focus etc Not a comprehensive review but for anyone who is browsing thinking about the x-s20, these are my thoughts after 1 month.

Happy R5C/R5 owner/user/hobbyist here. I love the R5C's form factor and having the C-line video menu, along with the ridiculous amount of pro features squeezed into that dslr-styled body. I also love being able to build it out or barebones it depending on what I'm shooting. But then audio-wise the Zoom F3 allowed me to put down my bulky Zoom F4 and now I have a 2 camera run n gun setup that all fits in a Nanuk 935/Pelican 1550. And now that the battery power issue has been addressed with the R5C (I get over a couple hours easy with the grip) - and the overheating issue has been addressed with the R5, I've got two capable cams that are future proofed with 8K (yes, I have the Ninja V+ paired with the R5). Finally, the RF-EF adapter means you really don't need to go to the RF lenses. There are so many amazingly priced used EF-L lenses at your disposal. But also the VND drop-in filter is fantastic imo and never leaves my camera bodies! Coming from using C300/C100s professionally as a producer - and then owning the 5D MKII/III, 1DC as a hobbyist, I honestly feel like the R5C is my final destination cam purchase. The only thing I might do is sell the R5/Ninja V+ and pick up a second R5C body... maaaybe get a C70 when the prices get to the $2K USD range, just so I have an all-in-one C100 type cam. Either way good luck with whatever you purchase!

All those wideos gone, but at least Kai and Lok live on independently elsewhere...

For sure, the 50mm f1.8 S is much smaller with the S5 or S5II. Very sharp lens, almost clinical, with good bokeh at short to medium distance. But the G9II with the PL 25mm is still nicer to use (smaller and lighter) and has IMHO better character : And just for fun, a comparison with the little 20mm pancake 😅 :

Few more searches around internet reveal a Reddit thead where apparently many were complaining about a similar “MyMenu” crash, when using their XT5. I’ve removed almost all of the items I had in my menu and it did help. Weird! They need to fix that because what’s the freaking point of using my menu otherwise! Will be calling Fuji on Monday for sure. Granted, on the XS20, most of the items you need to access can be accessed from Q mode, but that sucks that My Menu has a bug. Didn’t have that on the XT3.

There are lots of caveats and asterisks there. In Mac terms, the most powerful mini is available with M2 Pro. It comes with a maximum of 32GB of memory. Depending on needs (10gE for a NAS, the more powerful M2 Pro processor?), by the time you upgrade it, it will cost about as much as an M1 Ultra with similar specs and potentially a bit better performance. If not looking at a Mac, as Jedi Master said, there's a lot more bang for a buck in a desktop PC. For about as much as you'd pay for an upgraded mini ($2100-2400), you can get a 16-core AMD processor, 64GB of RAM, a couple of blazing fast NVMe 2TB drives, and a 3080ti or 4070ti (maybe even a 4080?) which has a lot more raw power than the Mac. Though it'll also be big and a bit noisier. This sort of choice may also depend on the price of power in your area, as it's like $0.11 per kwh in Oregon and $0.47 per kwh in Britain right now. At almost 50 cents per kwh, you might want the computer which draws less than 200w when fully loaded (and is totally able to do everything you need) and not the one which draws 700-1000w.

200Mbps should be fine. The only times having more bitrate would help is when there is huge amounts of random movement, so scenes with water / snow falling / rain / trees blowing in the wind / etc. Other things to try are doing a factory reset on the camera, and it might be a good time to update the firmware if you're not on the latest version. Also, check the firmware for each lens you use, those have firmware too!

Obviously the decision between these would be heavily dependent on the situation, but obviously I'd choose the smallest one for the millions of reasons I've already shared. When I look at the choices of S5iiX, Sony, GX85, Nikon, Fuji, I see the choice as being around: Size and weight - for both your own ergonomics as well as how stealth you wish to be Dynamic Range - some of these setups have higher DR than others Stabilisation - some of these setups will have Dual IS, but i'm assuming some won't Obviously there are loads of other things going on too, but these are the ones that I see mattering to me. Ones that don't matter to me are: DoF - almost all these lenses are capable of creating levels of background defocus used in cinema, which is enough for me Codec / resolution - the GX85 with 100Mbps 4K IPB h264 codec edits fine on my Intel MBP and is sufficient on a 1080p timeline (if it's good enough for Hollywood it's good enough for me) so I don't need extra resolution or ALL-I to edit with Colour science - with colour management any of these cameras can be coloured just as easily as any other and [production design] > [colour grading ability] > [camera colour science]

Equivalent in Windows-land? It doesn't really exist. 12th/13th generation Intel has much better performance per watt than 11th generation, but the built-in GPU isn't anywhere near the performance of M1 so you'd need something with a dedicated GPU which won't be low power. If I'm guessing I'd say that an i7-12700 or i7-13700 with the laptop version of an RTX 4060 should be about similar to the performance of an M1 Max while plugged into the wall, but with the caveat that the Windows laptop will pull more power and be noisier (fans to remove the heat from using so much power). However, the second you unplug the laptop from the wall, the performance and battery life of the Windows system will be substantially worse than the M1 Max. You can find Windows laptops with more raw power than even the highest-end M3 Max - and desktops even more so, but the cost is that the power usage will be a lot higher. I'm too lazy to go look now, but I'd bet that an RTX 4090 all by itself uses more power at full load than an entire M3 Max laptop, including the screen. 😃

In all seriousness though, very sad. Such an iconic piece of photography history; I loved their stuff. I just got into video right as Kye was in his last year with DigitalRev, but suffice to say I really enjoyed his content and still enjoy his independent reviews.

Ah, getting say an ARRI ALEXA Classic might be pushing it beyond the reasonable max for it. Nobody can really accurately tell apart a Zoom F8 vs a Sound Devices 788T (or a F8n vs a 888) in a double blind test. So it's more about the feature set and workflows, you can just handle more with the Sound Devices 8 Series. (I wish it was also about reliability too... but I tend to feel the Zoom F8n has the slight edge in reliability over my Sound Devices 833! Although, I am recording to not one, not two, but three media with my 833!)

Forgot volleyball and swimming!

I did go by lenses above, but bodies are still important. Nikon also didn't really have video before the Z9 either. They always had lenses for what I do. I shoot college sports - football, soccer, hockey, basketball, lacrosse, & baseball. I usually use the 24-70 or 70-200 on one body (depending on the sport) and a 300 or 400 on the other body with a 1.4x at times. With Canon, I could use the 24-105 and 100-300 with 1.4x to replace those 3-4 lenses. Hockey I might still want to use a 70-200 though, as that's what I primarily use and the 100-300 is not so light to hold for the entire game. How's the 28-70 for video? My thinking was to use the 24-105 for most other things, with the 28-70 when I want shallower DOF or the light drops. But I would think the 24-105 would be nicer for video with the IS and power zoom.

Internal Braw for the next Lumix cameras, please.:)

If I am allowed to chim in, I would love a powersaving solution like the m1 tech in a windows laptop. What would be an equivalent to a M1 Max Macbook, with lowish powerdraw and same performance in Resolve for editing, grading and rendering?

Pro equipment for earning pro money doing pro jobs in pro sports. 😊 @gt3rs I am always impressed by stuff like yours. I enjoy the achievement itself and am always a bit in disbelief about it. There was a member posting here, who was filming sports with a FS5, football and baseball iirc. Was that you as well? Some impressive footage.

You can't really go wrong with both systems. Today Z8 is probably the best bang for the bucks. I shoot with R5 and R5c since the release I'm very happy, you can search my posts here tons of discussion. R5 overheating is a thing of the past, this summer I was shooting under the sun 8k 25 RAW with on top an iphone 13 pro max in 4k... and the iphone shut down due to overheating and the R5 kept going... Having said this I think we will se a new R5 early next year as is now more than 3.5 years old.... so not the best moment to buy it. I think R1 will also show up in first half but who knows. R3 is an amazing camera but I don't want to go back to 24mpix and non 8k video. My preferred one is the R5c but once you decide Nikon vs Canon we can go deeper in the differences. Canon has some unique zooms that you may find interesting for your job: RF 24-105 2.8 (optional power zoom) with one lens you maybe able to cover most of your need. RF 28-70 2.0, I love this lens, no more primes to carry around, switching lens, etc. Sold all my primes other than a el cheapo 16 2.8. RF 70-200 2.8, some love it some not due that is an extending design, but is super small and light weight, I use mine on gimbal quite a bit. RF 100-300 2.8 cost a fortune but is great for sports. With two super expensive lenses and a 1 TC you can cover almost everything 24-105 2.8 100-300 2.8 If you even plan to acquire or rent cinema cameras, canon RF mount lenses may be a better choice than Z lenses as both Canon and RED have, and will have cinema camera with this mount.

I haven't shot with either R3 nor R5 but I have shot with Nikon 5100, Z6, Z6_2 and finally with the Z9. I chose Nikon because the Z glass in my mind is the perfect system. You have affordable 1.8 glass that doesn't look, feel or render as a 50$ kit lens. I have shot with the 50mm 20mm and 85mm wide open and can be 100% satisfied with the results. I have also used the 85 1.2 but I only bought it because I need the extra light. I have also shot extensively 8.3K NRAW, ask me about it. 60fps and 24fps (23.98) clips and graded them accordingly. For me it's the perfect camera, even more as the switch from photo to video takes under a second (in my test case with fast Angelbird media). Also I have shot in H265. If you watch Camera Conspiracies that guy must be editing on a laptop or something because the H265 from my Ninja on Z6 and on Z9 were not a problem and I didn't create proxies. Without the Z8/Z9 the R5 would be a no brainer because of the internal 8K RAW but now a basically R5 but with a bigger battery, no overheating and fast switch. I think it's obvious.

I don't care about S5II/X on my own behalf as I am not intending to trade it in for any of my stuff I am going to have to sell. I got too much unused equilment, so a complimentary camera instead for my S1H will be cool. At the moment that would still be my S1, which I would sell. A G9 would offer additional features to find out about, especially Dual Gain, Pdaf and punsh-in preview during recording. Wanna test that Towerjazz magic and new colour!:) I have seen lowlight comparisons with the GH5s where it holds onto resolution and colours better than the latter. I just wouldn't buy into mambojambo affected textures. How could they mess up on that. Flagship cameras, at least from Panasonic, should not have unnecessary image nasties like that. If a GH5 (ll) and G9 do better in that regard it is a step back, which is unnatural by the logic of a succeeding model of the product line. So, Panasonic, do your GH6 and G9II a favour and make them the much better cameras they potentially akready are. Turn off the mambojambo.

Interesting about the sensors (perhaps?) not being Sony - it makes sense though if they developed the dual-gain architecture as a custom design, which I am assuming they did. It also then follows that the colour science would be slightly different too. I suppose they could have made it identical if they'd wanted, but I think if you were designing such a thing you'd constantly be tinkering with it, trying to improve, adapting to more recent tastes etc. The fact that the G9ii is as good as the GH6 in many ways could be a promising sign for what a potential GH7 could bring. I think the difficulties with the GH6 were unfortunate, as was that it was overshadowed by the PDAF implementations of the next releases. I think that Panasonic were being bold and trying to really push forward in doing a dual-gain architecture sensor, but unfortunately it just didn't quite make the kind of difference that you'd hope from such a bold move. I guess Panasonic might take the "lesson" to just go back to incrementalism and play it safe etc, but I really hope they don't do that, but instead view it as a good-but-not-great project and keep being bold and trying things. If the GH6 and G9ii sensors are from TowerJazz (or any other non-Sony provider) then it might be a sign they're going out on their own and will continue to iterate on the design and improve it over time. That would be a great outcome I think.

Ahah, no, of course it is on the original files, I never pixel peep on converted files. I don't like the digital look at all like on smartphone (when everything is oversharpened), but I don't like digital processing making the image soft or sharp artificialy either. I sometime need to keep all the fine details for my videos, I don't want they have digital sharpening, I just want the same details as a raw photo without any digital processing. If I really need a soft image looking, I think the 1080P of my GH5 with a bit of un-sharpen is perfect, no need for a 4K or 6K camera. If I un-sharpen a video file looking like a raw photo, as on the GH5, the result is good, because every details are there. But when I un-sharpen a file like on the GH6, it just doesn't look as good in my opinion, especially in low light, it looks more like if the image is upscaled. My S5II also has bad processing going on internaly compared to previous S cameras, bad edge sharpening even in V-log, making the fine details less thin, and also chroma noise reduction more or less significant depending on the profile used. Of course, most of the time and depending on your screen, you need to crop in order to see the difference. Digital processing like the Intelligent Detail Filter on the GH6 can certainly helps with moiré, but nothing come close to a OLPF like on the S1H for the nicest image quality. I even prefer to use my GH5 in low light compared to the GH6 below 1600 ISO, sure the GH6 is cleaner, but something just looks off about fine details rendering. Of course, downscaling the file to 1080P or viewing it on small screen doesn't make a big difference between both cameras. Again, it's really when cropping we can see that the details rendering is not the same. But it is not so simple, because the colors of the GH6 are really really nice, I just love their new 25MP M43 sensor, it has natural and rich tones in video (and photos of course), nicer than on my S5II IMHO. Last time I loved the colors of a camera as much was with the Samsung NX1. My G9II has more or less the same colors than the GH6, but on the cooler side, and more magenta overall. Nothing that can't be fixed in post though.